Vesa Jussila Posted August 27, 2022 Author Share Posted August 27, 2022 Definitely interesting found. I am just wondering how much is post cost to Europe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughb Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 Hi guys. I've received the LC2 slot car body. It would be fine as a slot car body, but a bit disappointing for use on a scale car. Though obviously thin, some of the clear window portions have a couple of small micro bubbles and distortion. Don't get me wrong, the body may be useful to fill the canopy portion with clay as a basis to make your own vacuform; overall for the price it will be worth the experiment. I haven't taken any photos as my simple smartphone camera was having trouble taking photos of a clear object with any clarity. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob de Bie Posted August 31, 2022 Share Posted August 31, 2022 20 hours ago, hughb said: Hi guys. I've received the LC2 slot car body. It would be fine as a slot car body, but a bit disappointing for use on a scale car. Though obviously thin, some of the clear window portions have a couple of small micro bubbles and distortion. Don't get me wrong, the body may be useful to fill the canopy portion with clay as a basis to make your own vacuform; overall for the price it will be worth the experiment. I haven't taken any photos as my simple smartphone camera was having trouble taking photos of a clear object with any clarity. Thanks for the report! Back to the plan to 3D scan and then print the cockpit section for vacforming purposes.. Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andreas.R Posted September 8, 2022 Share Posted September 8, 2022 (edited) Hello Vesa and all others interested in this project! I'm also working on the cockpit, but I've found that it's very difficult to find the right shape. The front screen is the biggest problem: because it is transparent, you can't exactly determine the shape. The next problem is adapting it to the Italeri body. I found a site that creates blueprints for vehicles. I requested the drawings for the Lancia there. Unfortunately I'm still waiting! It's obviously not easy for the professionals either. If they create the blueprints for me, I will try to create the entire body in 3D - and will at least start with the cockpit. If it goes well, all other errors of the Italeri model could also be corrected However, the 3D scan might also be a good way to create a vacuform. We should definitely try it. Unfortunately, this project is going quite slowly due to lack of time! Regards Andreas Edited September 8, 2022 by Andreas.R correction 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob de Bie Posted September 8, 2022 Share Posted September 8, 2022 (edited) What's holding the 3D scanning is that I'm still strugling to find an easy removable paint for my Tamiya LC2 body (you can't scan a transparent part). I tried Vallejo acrylic paint on the wing, and after many tries, today I was able to get it off. First I tried NaOH, then ammonia, then ethanol, and that last one worked. But at a price: it turned matt and milky white. That would of course ruin the transparent parts of the body, so that's a no-go. Experimenting will continue today, I will try Revell and Aeromaster acrylics. In the mean time, expanding on the words of Andreas, what would help us most is trying to judge the cockpit shape of the TamTech body, comparing it to as many photos as possible. Because it's Tamiya we assume it's near-perfect, but maybe they got it wrong too? Rob Edited September 8, 2022 by Rob de Bie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pascal Posted September 8, 2022 Share Posted September 8, 2022 Very interesting project. Rob : I've removed decals from clear plastic with Dot 4 brake fluid. Maybe you can cover the clear parts with decals ? Then later on you can remove the decals with brake fluid. PS : This page has some great photos of the Lancia LC2-85 chassis : https://www.asmonzaracing.com/photos-cars-walkaround-lancia-lc285-0007-1985.html Sincerely Pascal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob de Bie Posted September 8, 2022 Share Posted September 8, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, Pascal said: Very interesting project. Rob : I've removed decals from clear plastic with Dot 4 brake fluid. Maybe you can cover the clear parts with decals ? Then later on you can remove the decals with brake fluid. Pascal: I'm hoping to find an acrylic paint that can be removed easily with ethanol or ammonia in an ultrasonic cleaner. Brake fluid is something I hope I can avoid. A problem I hadn't mentioned explicitely before is that the TamTech body is made of a material that I do not recognise. I remember the strange sweet smell when I sawed off the rear wing. I don't think its transparent polystyreen, that material feels different. Therefore I'm extra careful, hoping to avoid permanent damage to the body, specifically the windows. Just today I made test samples with Revell, Aeromaster and Akan. Actually, the Revell attempt failed when I tried thinning the almost paste-like paint with their Aqua Color Mix - the paint became lumpy and totally clogged the airbrush. The Aeromaster and Akan sample painting went without a hitch. I'll let them cure for a few days and then try stripping them. Rob Edited September 8, 2022 by Rob de Bie 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andreas.R Posted September 8, 2022 Share Posted September 8, 2022 3 hours ago, Rob de Bie said: What's holding the 3D scanning is that I'm still strugling to find an easy removable paint for my Tamiya LC2 body (you can't scan a transparent part). I tried Vallejo acrylic paint on the wing, and after many tries, today I was able to get it off. First I tried NaOH, then ammonia, then ethanol, and that last one worked. But at a price: it turned matt and milky white. That would of course ruin the transparent parts of the body, so that's a no-go. Experimenting will continue today, I will try Revell and Aeromaster acrylics. In the mean time, expanding on the words of Andreas, what would help us most is trying to judge the cockpit shape of the TamTech body, comparing it to as many photos as possible. Because it's Tamiya we assume it's near-perfect, but maybe they got it wrong too? Rob Hello Rob, there is cling film for food that you can apply over the original - it holds up quite well, is elastic and very thin. Then you could spray acrylic paint over it. A few little folds don't matter for the scan, since the scan has to be processed with meshlab anyway. The film can be removed easy and won`t harm the original. I hope it works! Regards Andreas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelbautony Posted September 8, 2022 Share Posted September 8, 2022 1 hour ago, Rob de Bie said: Pascal: I'm hoping to find an acrylic paint that can be removed easily with ethanol or ammonia in an ultrasonic cleaner. Brake fluid is something I hope I can avoid. A problem I hadn't mentioned explicitely before is that the TamTech body is made of a material that I do not recognise. I remember the strange sweet smell when I sawed off the rear wing. I don't think its transparent polystyreen, that material feels different. Therefore I'm extra careful, hoping to avoid permanent damage to the body, specifically the windows. Just today I made test samples with Revell, Aeromaster and Akan. Actually, the Revell attempt failed when I tried thinning the almost paste-like paint with their Aqua Color Mix - the paint became lumpy and totally clogged the airbrush. The Aeromaster and Akan sample painting went without a hitch. I'll let them cure for a few days and then try stripping them. Rob Hi Rob. I'm no expert but might the material be Lexan, the same material used for slot car bodies, although the moulding is usually thick and crude? If it is Lexan then I believe it's a Polycarbonate. Probably incorrect. I have to admire all of you working on this. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vesa Jussila Posted September 9, 2022 Author Share Posted September 9, 2022 Interesting information guys. Maybe I have next week time to stop FCA Heritage. I will ask if there are blueprints. Then maybe way forward is 3D model -> Printing mould. Let see if we can get help from there. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jochen Barett Posted September 9, 2022 Share Posted September 9, 2022 19 hours ago, Rob de Bie said: What's holding the 3D scanning is that I'm still strugling to find an easy removable paint for my Tamiya LC2 body (you can't scan a transparent part). I tried Vallejo acrylic paint on the wing, and after many tries, today I was able to get it off. First I tried NaOH, then ammonia, then ethanol, and that last one worked. But at a price: it turned matt and milky white. That would of course ruin the transparent parts of the body, so that's a no-go. Experimenting will continue today, I will try Revell and Aeromaster acrylics. In the mean time, expanding on the words of Andreas, what would help us most is trying to judge the cockpit shape of the TamTech body, comparing it to as many photos as possible. Because it's Tamiya we assume it's near-perfect, but maybe they got it wrong too? Rob I have no experience with the scanner (and associated sacnning software) available to you, but my ideas: - Cool down the to be scanned part and breathe on it. - Try regular baking flour, in case it wont stick all by itself use a thin layer of some "grease" (vaseline, butter, ...), it should come off with regular dish washing methods. - Some time ago I put a white patch of Tamiya X-2 acrylic paint on the back of my cell phone to use slide marker to note my own number on it. A few weeks later I used a bit too much of sanitizer on my hands and to my surprise it took of the Tamiya acrylic paint rather well. Judging by the smell it was isopropyl alcohol based sanitizer. In case your transparent part is plexiglass (PMMA, characteristic smell when heated) do avoid ethyl alcohol and concentrations of above 50% for your alcohol in water solution. As always: Try any chemistry on a part of the part that will be invisible when the model is finished. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughb Posted September 10, 2022 Share Posted September 10, 2022 Windex (glass cleaning solution) which has a small amount of ammonia works great to strip tamiya "acrylics". In quotation marks because as we know they are not true acrylics. Not sure what would happen to the bodywork, which probably would be Lexan. Just to recap, what is the main issue with the windscreen? Is it that it is too curved from top to bottom, rather than being more of a straight line when viewed from the side? My main issue is the thickness of the clear plastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob de Bie Posted September 10, 2022 Share Posted September 10, 2022 8 hours ago, hughb said: Just to recap, what is the main issue with the windscreen? Is it that it is too curved from top to bottom, rather than being more of a straight line when viewed from the side? My main issue is the thickness of the clear plastic. I think the photo below shows the worst angle of the windscreen. Also, the A-pillar curves forward instead of backwards. The Tamiya windscreen looks better, but I never made a thorough study to see whether it's right. Tamiya is only human too. Rob 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andreas.R Posted September 11, 2022 Share Posted September 11, 2022 Hello Rob, i am working on the cockpit mold for the Vacuform, hope to get it right. You need blueprints to get the right shape! I've studied so many photos of this part that I have the shape pretty well in my head. Regards Andreas 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelbautony Posted September 11, 2022 Share Posted September 11, 2022 I am really interested in this, as I've said. I wish there was something I could offer but only just beginning to learn Fusion 360. As Rob knows I have produced decal artwork for Totip sponsor version - 1984 Silverstone 1000 Km. If there is a consensus I can produce other artworks and donate a digital file for free use. I will post something here shortly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andreas.R Posted September 11, 2022 Share Posted September 11, 2022 Hello modelbautony, when i have done the form for the vacuform - who will make it? I will send the form 3D printed in resin. The next will be the interior details of that cockpit, modifying the form. You could modify the decals attached to the cockpit, they are as bad as the cockpit. I think i have to buy the italeri kit - to get the right dimensions for the messy original cockpit. Regards Andreas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vesa Jussila Posted September 23, 2022 Author Share Posted September 23, 2022 My trip was delayed, but I will reschedule it. This is coming that level project that one month is nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andreas.R Posted November 19, 2022 Share Posted November 19, 2022 Hello Vesa, i finally bought one! It terrible kit - i think wenn it is ready only 20% will be left from the original. The windscreen has not the right location - it must be moved 3 mm down. I have to cut off the whole cockpit. Made some progress with the cockpit itself. Regards Andreas 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vesa Jussila Posted November 22, 2022 Author Share Posted November 22, 2022 On 11/19/2022 at 4:45 PM, Andreas.R said: It terrible kit - i think wenn it is ready only 20% will be left from the original. I must say I agree with you. Very little really can be used and for that reason my build is more or less on hold. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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