Bandsaw Steve Posted April 5, 2022 Share Posted April 5, 2022 I disagree!!! 😡 Not sure what I’m disagreeing with but Adrian said I should… so… 🤔 1 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted April 5, 2022 Author Share Posted April 5, 2022 7 minutes ago, Bandsaw Steve said: I disagree!!! 😡 I don’t suppose you would recommend anything less than 100 year old hand carved Jarrah, Spotted Gum or Merbau 😜 Regards, Adrian 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandsaw Steve Posted April 5, 2022 Share Posted April 5, 2022 Exactly, always recommend something completely impossible to find. That way they will never find out just how bad the advice is. 😁 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LorenSharp Posted April 5, 2022 Share Posted April 5, 2022 6 minutes ago, AdrianMF said: Mainly for @LorenSharp, although it might be interesting to others… balsa is very soft and doesn’t hold detail well. Basswood, which is sold in hobby shops, is harder but carves well. For me, wood works pretty well for flying surfaces, because you are mainly taking a flat plate, maybe tapering it and then sanding to an aerofoil shape. However, when you get to a fuselage where there may be cockpit and wheel well openings, and all sorts of other details, I find wood starts to lose its charm. @Bandsaw Steve may not agree… On the other hand, large amounts of filler are pretty unmanageable and you still have to carve, file or sand it to shape when it dries. So the method I use gives me some form of structure and guidance and uses a variety of materials. Start with the picture (I’ve been doing documentation all day so this is some light relief): (1) shows your good half and your bad half. If the bad half is salvageable, cut it back to a panel line or at least a straight line. (2) trace the good half to get the profile of the replacement piece and trace the cross section of the join to get the end bulkhead. Plan where you need openings for cockpits, air intakes and wheel wells, then cut away these spaces too. Remember to trim the centre line of the bulkhead down by the thickness of the profile card! Glue them together and let them set against the existing parts to get a good fit. (3) build boxes behind your openings. Make sure the plan view of the opening is correct because that isn’t going to change, but you should let the boxes stick out further than they need to so you can sand them down later. (4) capture the cross section at various intervals with a piece of soft wire/solder and cut out a bulkhead for that location. Remember to remove the thickness of the profile card from the middle. (5) Stick your bulkheads onto the profile. You may have to chop them up a bit if a box is in the way. (6) mark the profile and bulkhead edges with a sharpie (so you will see them when sanding) then fill most of the space between the bulkheads with scraps - this is where I use balsa. Superglue sticks balsa to plastic. Make sure none of it will come to the surface. You can fine tune the boxes at this point with bits of card to refine the shapes. Now you can apply a thinnish coat of filler. I find Isopon P38 two part car filler very good and easy to work (and very smelly). I believe the US equivalent is Bondo but I’m sure other products are available. Milliput is much tougher to sand. When it’s dry you just sand it down to where you can see the edges of the bulkheads. If they turn white, you are there! Lots of filler primer and oblique lighting are your friends now! If you really want a plastic part, you can make it 20-40 thou smaller all round and plunge or vac mould a plastic part from it. I hope that helps. Without seeing the damage I can’t be more specific. And I won’t be offended if you just go out and buy a block of basswood. Or wait for Trumpeter to scale up the 1/72 version. Or buy a Mars 3 and start learning Fusion! Regards, Adrian Thanks Adrian, This is a BIG help. I hadn't considered using P-38(Bondo), Milliput I've done enough carving, sanding,, and the ensuing mess it involves that if necessary I wanted to avoid., My vac-u-form is on the smallish side for the part that needs to be made. That is a possibility but would need to be split in two sections to vac properly. I was fortunate enough to get a Revopoint 3d scanner for Xmas form my older brother, but honestly I wish he hadn't. The scanning resolution is no where near fine enough. Building from scratch in 3D is easy enough in the computer and my printer is large enough to do the piece, but of late a lot of the larger parts are warping and printed resin doesn't do the hot water. so that gremlin is still being pain to sort out. "Translation- Once sorted out, then large subjects like 1/48 B-2 Spirit and the Tu-95 Bear both of which I've built built in 3D, will start occupying a lot of my time, not to mention my wallet, Those projects are for a later time. And I have to figure out where to put them when doneSo this tidbit of information will come in very handy and definitely worth studying further. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LorenSharp Posted April 5, 2022 Share Posted April 5, 2022 This might help. here are the pieces in question. As you mentioned I had found a spot on the broken side that can be squared off. Thankfully that part of the fuselage was symmetrical. So now its just a matter of arriving at the most economical, not to mention efficient means (translation: not hair pulling. Don't have much hair left) to arrive at a satisfactory solution. I'm probably over-thinking it. It shouldn't be hard. Then again I'm the type that will think " Sure I can do it. because I ain't never not done it" Gotta love triple negatives.😜 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted April 8, 2022 Author Share Posted April 8, 2022 Finally got back to some plastic wrangling! Upper wing sections superglued together and cockpit on with Gator’s Grip PVA: And I couldn’t resist a tiny preview, sitting on top of my list: 19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunny Posted April 8, 2022 Share Posted April 8, 2022 Looking good Adrian - must get that rigging done... Cheers, Roger 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted April 8, 2022 Author Share Posted April 8, 2022 9 minutes ago, Dunny said: must get that rigging done... I won’t have anything to copy if you don’t! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted April 8, 2022 Share Posted April 8, 2022 Looks very impressive Adrian, great to see the upper wing preview. Great work. Chris 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted April 9, 2022 Author Share Posted April 9, 2022 1 hour ago, bigbadbadge said: great to see the upper wing preview. Resistance was futile…. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted April 9, 2022 Author Share Posted April 9, 2022 Torpedo and mounting from a FROG Shark, with the tail cut down a bit and new fins: I’ve cut down the mountings a bit to make the torpedo closer to the fuselage and I might add a bar to connect them, like the one on the Swordfish. It needs a fuse at the front and possibly also the “whiskers”. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted April 9, 2022 Author Share Posted April 9, 2022 Propeller next: I won’t fix it or the cowling until I’ve done painting. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted April 9, 2022 Author Share Posted April 9, 2022 Landing light (which I intended to do), and hand holds and navigation lights (which I didn’t): I did the wingtip lights with a blob of UV resin rather than clear sprue - about the same amount of work and quality of result. 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Slowbuild Posted April 9, 2022 Share Posted April 9, 2022 Have to ask, is that sellotape acting as a landing light cover? If so, nIce and thin, looks great now, but won’t it yellow with age and most likely drop off? Perhaps some wonder product you’ve unearthed? Dave 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted April 9, 2022 Author Share Posted April 9, 2022 22 minutes ago, Dave Slowbuild said: sellotape Yes it is. I know what you mean about turning yellow and going brittle. It was recommended to me as still being clear and stuck on to someone else’s models after ten years. I can only vouch for three or four! The product (“Diamond”??) has been replaced in the range and now I think the current equivalent is “extra clear”. As far as I’m concerned, if it yellows, it yellows. It probably won’t drop off under a few coats of paint and varnish at the edges. I’m over 60 now and I suspect it will outlast me! Regards, Adrian 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Slowbuild Posted April 9, 2022 Share Posted April 9, 2022 OK I’m prepared to give it a go! It’s a more attractive option than fettling a lump of clear plastic into the gap. I suppose a hairy stick finish helps hide the edges, better than an airbrush anyway (though perhaps not in my hands). Dave 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted April 9, 2022 Share Posted April 9, 2022 Nice job on the Torpedo, prop and lights,the landing light does look very clear, lovely. Might have to try that myself. Chris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted April 9, 2022 Author Share Posted April 9, 2022 Bomb racks, from slices of card heated and wrapped over a drill bit: Pads next, from slices of rod. The SBC recess will be plated over in a nod to its existence. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted April 9, 2022 Author Share Posted April 9, 2022 Grrr. When I started this kit I drilled out the kit strut holes a bit deeper to provide a nice positive location, then used the strut holes as reference points for all my ribbing. I’ve just been having a play with some plastic card to see what length struts I will need, and found out that the strut holes are wrong! The struts splay out towards the top wing, like a Hawker Demon. I will keep the holes on the bottom wing because they are aligned on a rib, and fill and drill under the top wing for vertical (or perhaps slightly inward-canting because of the wing fold) struts. Ho hum. And the engine as moulded sticks out from the cowling, and consequently there is an unrealistic gap between the propeller and cowling front. Guess who found this out just after irrevocably fixing on the propeller and gluing the cowling on to the fuselage with lashings of superglue? Oh well. Turn round, face forward. Start plodding again… Regards, Adrian 2 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted April 10, 2022 Author Share Posted April 10, 2022 It turns out that the cowling wasn’t irrevocably fixed to the fuselage: Propeller is now very close to the cowling and I took the opportunity to thin down the propeller by about 60%. Bomb racks are now on, after a judicious trim of the arms. 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dunny Posted April 10, 2022 Share Posted April 10, 2022 47 minutes ago, AdrianMF said: It turns out that the cowling wasn’t irrevocably fixed to the fuselage: Propeller is now very close to the cowling and I took the opportunity to thin down the propeller by about 60%. Bomb racks are now on, after a judicious trim of the arms. Looking good Adrian! I've had a couple of abortive attempts at rigging today and have given up in self-disgust 😡 Cheers, Roger 1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted April 10, 2022 Author Share Posted April 10, 2022 Paint! Top wing on for show only… 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted April 10, 2022 Share Posted April 10, 2022 What a difference a few hours makes. Looking very promising. 👍 Steve. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted April 10, 2022 Share Posted April 10, 2022 You have fought well, the force is strong in this one!!! Glad the cowling was able to get sorted. The bomb racks look great too, what a cracking idea. Great work Chris 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry1954 Posted April 10, 2022 Share Posted April 10, 2022 Fantastic work going on here Adrian, and I admire your perseverance. The results are really beginning to show. Terry 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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