How to apply airfix decals

[Lummy06]

Hi I wanted to ask if anybody knows how long I should hold my airfix decals under water and what temperature everyone classes as ‘warm’ water because I’m worrying I’m using too hot of water.

thanks

lummy 06

[Troy Smith]

1 minute ago, Lummy06 said:

Hi I wanted to ask if anybody knows how long I should hold my airfix decals under water and what temperature everyone classes as ‘warm’ water because I’m worrying I’m using too hot of water.

thanks

lummy 06

Hot helps, it softens the decals, which helps them conform.  Water can only be boiling , 100c,  hot water seems fine.   If in doubt, try a spare one.

As long as the decal does not brek up or not work, it's fine.   Some decals, eg Tamiya, use heat activated glue, which makes them thick.

 

I have kept decal water hot by sticking a metal jar lid on coffee machine hot plate

This is also well worth a read, as this works a treat.. 

HTH

[Lummy06]

Thank you @Troy Smith I will try that at some time in the near future.😀

I will read this now thanks so much

 

lummy 06

[Graham Boak]

If the water is too hot to hold your fingers in, then it's too hot to use comfortably.  (100deg C is far too hot.)  However, I would ask why it is necessary to hold the sheet under water, or get your fingers wet to do so?  Place it on the water, push it under with a (e.g.) paintbrush so that the top is wet. then let it float or sink of its own accord.  Use the brush (or whatever) to move it out of the water to the edge of your saucer to check that it is loose enough to transfer to the model.

[Lummy06]

Ok thank you @Graham Boaki will try this when I next apply decals👍

 

I only hold them under water as that’s what I thought you had to do with them but didn’t think to let them sit.

[Troy Smith]

30 minutes ago, Lummy06 said:

I only hold them under water as that’s what I thought you had to do with them but didn’t think to let them sit.

leave for long enough for the backing  paper to absorb the water and that the decal will start to slide slightly.  That's long enough.   Usually a good indicator is the backing paper will curl, and the flatten out.  

 

in this image, the KW*Z is one decal,  applied over gloss, using the bed in kleer method,  with water dish on a hot plate, note there is no silvering of the backing paper

 

this after a matt coat

 

I did repaint the red by the 2nd shot though. 

HTH

 

[Lummy06]

Ok thank you for that dually noted 👍

 

p.s. nice hurricane great details 

[Giorgio N]

While bedding in Klear or similar products can be of great help in some situations, recent Airfix decals generally do not require this on normal "flat" surfaces. The decals they use work very well with the usual liquids (micro sol/set, gunze etc), they may need additional work only in the toughest situations (application over simulation of corrugated metal or presence of particular surface detail, like vortex generators).

Personally I only keep the decals in the water for a minute or so, then remove them from the water and wait until I see that I can move them. I always use tweezers to handle them, so even if the water is hot there's not risk. Still, I never use hot water for Airfix decals, I only use hot water for those in Japanese kits

[Lummy06]

Ok thanks @Giorgio N I was unsure with airfix as it is a well known model brand they might use some more complicated techniques like temperatures at a certain heat and you and the other members have cleared that up so thank you .   

[Troy Smith]

51 minutes ago, Lummy06 said:

nice hurricane great details 

Thanks, the build is here

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235052380-hurricane-airfix-72nd-fabric-wing-mki-oob/

 

I note you were asking about washes, these were done with oil paint dissolved in lighter fuel. See the link for more.

cheers

T

[pigsty]

5 hours ago, Lummy06 said:

temperatures at a certain heat

Warm water for decals is only a matter of speed.  The glue dissolves in water; it just takes longer if the water's cold.  I always find that the slight delay waiting for a decal to come loose is less of a faff than going back again and again for more warm water.

 

This might be partly because I use a shallow bowl for my decals.  But I wouldn't part with it - they're so easy to extract up the gently sloping side.

[Paul Bradley]

Isn't it interesting how a post like this shows all the different methods we use to achieve the same results! 

 

My method is to use very warm water, and to pull the decal with backing sheet from the water before it slides off - I find that if a decal floats off the backing paper, it can curl up when I try to remove it from the water. Some brands are more susceptible to this than others.

 

Just before placing the decal, I brush a small amount of Klear/Future in the area where the decal is to be placed. This helos with adhesion and to prevent 'silvering', where air is trapped between the decal and the model. 

 

I use tweezers to remove the decal from the backing paper to place it on the model. If a decal brand is prone to curling, I move the decal still on it's backing paper to the model, then slide the decal into position carefully using the tweezers. Be careful not to break it. 

 

Once the decal is in place, I VERY carefully use a Q-Tip to wick away any excess water and Klear/Future. If the decal hasn't settled down after drying. I'll use a setting solution such as Microset.

 

As with any new skill, practise makes perfect, and you will in time find your own method based on some of the tips in this thread. One thing I would highly recommend is to try out some spare decals from the kit's decal sheet on a scrap model, to see how they behave without potentially ruining the decals you wish to use on your prized new model! 

[Lummy06]

@Paul Bradley I agree so many diverse ways yet some easier than others. I shall try them all

[Lummy06]

@Troy Smith

5 hours ago, Troy Smith said:

Thanks, the build is here

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235052380-hurricane-airfix-72nd-fabric-wing-mki-oob/

 

I note you were asking about washes, these were done with oil paint dissolved in lighter fuel. See the link for more.

cheers

T

is this the build you have shown everyone here?

I’m interested as I accidentally bought the wrong scale aircraft hanger (1/144 not 1/72) and am wanting a hawker hurricane and this seems to fit both criterias.

[Troy Smith]

2 minutes ago, Lummy06 said:

is this the build you have shown everyone here?

yes.  Just it describes the processes used. 

3 minutes ago, Lummy06 said:

and am wanting a hawker hurricane and this seems to fit both criterias.

If you want a 1/144th Hurricane, look for the Sweet kit.  

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/sweet-14102-hawker-hurricane-mki--161459 

they do 3 boxing, fabric wing,  metal BoB, and Tropical

for details

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234996261-sweet-1144-hurricane-tropicals/

Note there are two kits in each box.

 

the Revell  microwings kit  is based on their early 60's 1/72nd Hurricane, and the 1/144 kit  was around in the 1970's,  and it's really not very good,  very inaccurate shapewise.   

 

HTH

[Graham Boak]

Zvezda also do one in 1/144 - but the Sweet one is the best.  It may not be available, but I suspect the Zvezda one still is.