fishplanebeer Posted February 14, 2022 Share Posted February 14, 2022 (edited) Just a quick question, what colour was the coaming over the instrument panel please? I'm assuming black rather than the interior green cockpit colour but just want to be sure as the photos I've found of preserved examples is not conclusive, and they may not even be very accurate anyway. Regards Colin. Ps. just wondered if anyone else has recently bought this Eduard 72nd scale kit and found the moldings/joints to be decidedly un-Eduard as I have? Edited February 14, 2022 by fishplanebeer 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade H Posted February 14, 2022 Share Posted February 14, 2022 (edited) Hello, Colin. Have a look at the three-part article about US aircraft colours at IPMS Stockholm, which may help with your query. Well, the first bit, possibly; the author probably didn't give his thoughts about Eduard's Hellcats. 🙂 Edit: I missed the bit about coaming, specifically, and it doesn't mention that by name. I've only made the 48th version, but it seemed like the molds had not aged very well, being a bit rough in places. Also, some of the engineering and fit felt like what people call "short-run", like having to the spread the wing roots to fill their cavities. I wouldn't have guessed that the tooling post-dated Tamiya's P-47, which would be my nearest comparator, by about six years; but maybe that's not the fairest comparison. As I didn't complete the first one, I still bought another with resin wings, engine, etc. for a detailed-up project. Edited February 14, 2022 by Ade H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishplanebeer Posted February 14, 2022 Author Share Posted February 14, 2022 Ade, Thank you for that, I'll use matt black as per the instructions you followed. I always thought Eduard kits fitted really well and the two build articles I read both said hardly any filler was needed but clearly that was a while ago as the molds must now be getting far less precise. The cowl ring join was sloppy and the fuselage halves were a very poor fit requiring filler top and bottom and then lots of re-scribing. In one of the articles the modeler built the 'week-end' edition in a week-end but you will need several to complete the one I have at the moment! But at least the cockpit parts are still really good, especially if you go for the pe option. I just hope their Spitfire VIII, one of my next projects, goes together somewhat better, but then again I may play safe and build my Tamiya 72nd scale F4U-1A instead as the Tamiya molds seem to have lasted the test of time much better. Regards Colin. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade H Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 Don't read too much into that article, Colin, (see my edit which may have crossed with your reply) and don't take my choice as a reference. 😄 But, I looked at some photos as you did, and came to the conclusion that black would be OK. Since posting, I've just bought a Detail and Scale e-book about the Hellcat, so I'll look through its photos and get back to you ASAP if we've guessed wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade H Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 Well, it didn't take me long to work out that (a) we probably both guessed right as it seems to be the usual rubbery black colour and (b) you should get yourself a copy of that e-book if you haven't already! I think that it would help you. It's in the Detail and Scale series by Bert Kinzey. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck1945 Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 I built the 1/72 Hellcat as a ‘48 hour build’ self challenge the beginning of September 2020, starting on a Friday evening so I aimed to finish by Sunday evening. I had purchased the kit when it was a new release though and it was almost flawless as far as construction was concerned. There were severe winds Sunday afternoon that brought down a power line sparking a wildfire that burned down one small town about 10 miles from us and we also lost power for about 36 hours. Winds took the fire in the opposite direction from us, but it did mean the Hellcat didn’t make the 48 hour time frame 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishplanebeer Posted February 15, 2022 Author Share Posted February 15, 2022 I think I also need a fair wind to get this particular example over the line! Scribing is not my strong point as I've never really got the hang of it so alas the end result will not be what I was hoping for. Regards Colin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishplanebeer Posted February 15, 2022 Author Share Posted February 15, 2022 Sorry, just to add that I have the SAM/MDF book on the Hellcat which is quite good but it doesn't show the coaming in a clear shot hence my original question. The book is 12 years old so the build article it contains where the 'week-end' kit is actually built in a week-end is clearly based upon a much fresher example of the kit. Regards Colin. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade H Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 35 minutes ago, fishplanebeer said: Scribing is not my strong point as I've never really got the hang of it I think that scribing is a lot about the tools because they may be some of the most individual tool choices in modelling. What works brilliantly for one person, another will dislike intensely. So if you're struggling, maybe try some different tools. I use Shimomura scribers, but that's not necessarily a recommendation as it's very personal. The MRP scribers are highly rated by some modellers whose opinions I trust. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FinnAndersen Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 1 hour ago, fishplanebeer said: I think I also need a fair wind to get this particular example over the line! Scribing is not my strong point as I've never really got the hang of it so alas the end result will not be what I was hoping for. Regards Colin. I feel your pain, as it more or less is mine, the art of scribing. Note that I say art, not skill. As with most modelling methods and skills, patience and experience is the key. The only way to get the hang of it is to get in and practice. However, there is a book https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/BMBOOK2?result-token=388Vp (currently out of stock, but expected back in stock) that may give you some clues and help you along. HTH Finn PS: Good judgement comes with experience. Experience stems from bad judgement. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishplanebeer Posted February 15, 2022 Author Share Posted February 15, 2022 I bought a new scriber recently, marketed by Revell but also sold by others I think (or ones that look identical to it) and the problem is every time I create a line it leaves a burr on both sides and not a clean indentation so I end up endlessly rubbing down and re-scribing. Plus I did buy some scribing tape to try and ensure straight lines which works up to a point but it seems to have a life of its own and not much use over curved surfaces. I'm beginning to suspect that although practice makes better (not perfect in my case) I may be practicing the wrong technique which, in the words of someone I forget, is a form of madness if you keep repeating something and expect a different outcome. The good news is most of the re-scribing is on the under side of the fuselage so won't be too obvious hopefully. Regards Colin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FinnAndersen Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 17 minutes ago, fishplanebeer said: I bought a new scriber recently, marketed by Revell but also sold by others I think (or ones that look identical to it) and the problem is every time I create a line it leaves a burr on both sides and not a clean indentation so I end up endlessly rubbing down and re-scribing. Plus I did buy some scribing tape to try and ensure straight lines which works up to a point but it seems to have a life of its own and not much use over curved surfaces. I'm beginning to suspect that although practice makes better (not perfect in my case) I may be practicing the wrong technique which, in the words of someone I forget, is a form of madness if you keep repeating something and expect a different outcome. The good news is most of the re-scribing is on the under side of the fuselage so won't be too obvious hopefully. Regards Colin. It should not do that kind of thing. I have a Baremetal scriber which is a sort of very narrow chisel. It produces a shallow trench with "vertical" sides, which is unlike the panel lines the kit producers make. You have to have magnifiers to see it, but there is that difference. I know others that use a metal pin, which do not remove material. I tried it, but went back to the Baremetal scriber as being the better alternative. I'd like to direct you to the techniques section here on BM, as there are modellers over there that may have some better suggestions than mine. /Finn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade H Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 That's right. Any good scriber, such those which I mentioned, should lift up neat little curls of plastic without rough edges or dragging. Good tools are rarely cheap, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckw Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 4 hours ago, fishplanebeer said: Plus I did buy some scribing tape to try and ensure straight lines which works up to a point but it seems to have a life of its own and not much use over curved surfaces. I use Dymo tape, which, as it comes is not much good for curves, but I cut it into thin strips which works pretty well for gentle curves. For tighter curves I use Tamiya tape for curves (the white stuff) which is thick enough to provide a guide if you're careful. Cheers Colin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishplanebeer Posted February 16, 2022 Author Share Posted February 16, 2022 I think I need to invest in a proper 'quality' scriber such as the Baremetal type as mine clearly is not up to the job as it just leaves edges that then take ages to sand off/down. Regards Colin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishplanebeer Posted February 16, 2022 Author Share Posted February 16, 2022 The Shimomura ones are sold out everywhere as far as I can see but the Baremetal one is still available but it's the one with the curved/hooked end so is the correct one please? Regards Colin. Ps. I've put a post in the Techniques section so hopefully I'll get some interesting and helpful replies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72modeler Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 (edited) If you have a dental supply house in your area, (We have vendor tables at contests on this side of the pond that sell dental and surgical tools on the cheap.) you should investigate purchasing some scrapers used to remove plaque from tooth surfaces. My dentist gave me several different types years ago when they got too dull for use, and they really work on plastic. I have one that I filed into a 'v' on one end, and when you pull it along the surface of a model,. you get a beautifully sharp incised line that doesn't create a furrow on either side. IIRC Small Parts and Micro Mark have them in their catalogs. Mike You might look at these: https://www.micromark.com/Diamond-Tip-Scriber https://www.micromark.com/4-piece-Double-End-Pick-Set https://modelpaintsol.com/news/umm-scribing-tools-we-have-them Edited February 16, 2022 by 72modeler added links Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seawinder Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 2 hours ago, fishplanebeer said: The Shimomura ones are sold out everywhere as far as I can see but the Baremetal one is still available but it's the one with the curved/hooked end so is the correct one please? Regards Colin. Ps. I've put a post in the Techniques section so hopefully I'll get some interesting and helpful replies That's the one I have. It gives good results, but you absolutely have to use it with a firm straight-edge — it won't track at all on its own. Another recommendation: Trumpeter makes a scriber — black handle and steel blade with a sharp point. I like it pretty well for some jobs, and it will track decently for small touch-ups. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishplanebeer Posted February 16, 2022 Author Share Posted February 16, 2022 The Trumpeter one is identical to the 'Revell' one I bought and tried to use so I'm assuming they are both from the same maker but with different brand names? When I use it it leaves a slightly burred edge which then takes much rubbing down and re-doing whereas what I'm after is a tool that leaves a nice clean and crisp indentation and where the removed plastic curls up as you go. It's a pity about the Shimomura ones as they seem to be the go to type (which probably explains why they are sold out everywhere) but I'll invest in the Baremetal version instead as it sounds as if this will also be a distinct improvement as well. Regards Colin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade H Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 I got my Shimomura tools in Japan. As well as the scribers, I picked up a couple of the seam scrapers (love those, too) and a whole set of metal files. Not cheap, but I won't need to replace them... They sell out quickly, but I found some eBay results for you. For 1/72, I'd suggest the 0.1mm and maybe the 0.15mm if you need to match some larger kit panel lines. As I prefer 1/48, I mostly use the two larger of the three widths. One thing which I always forget to mention is that I've added a little adhesive domed pad (like what you get with IKEA furniture) to both sides at the point furthest from the tip, so my finger and thumb rest against them with a light grip. It also makes them easy to pick up off the desk! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishplanebeer Posted February 16, 2022 Author Share Posted February 16, 2022 I can find the 0.15 for sale on E-Bay but would this be too wide for 72nd scale please? Regards Colin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade H Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 I like to match existing panel lines, as that seems logical, so it really depends on the kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishplanebeer Posted February 16, 2022 Author Share Posted February 16, 2022 There is one of the 0.10 for sale but quite expensive from Japan, particularly as I don't do a lot of scribing if I can help it. However most if not all of my builds are 72nd scale fighters and twin engined aircraft so I guessing the 0.10 would be more appropriate or could I get away with the 0.15 if I use quite lightly? Regards Colin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade H Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 (edited) The only 1/72 kit which I have right now (I've had a couple of others but it's really not for me) is Eduard's MiG-21. It needs a 0.1mm (I just checked) but it's a modern tooling and really fine. Generally, I would advise not buying just one size of scriber; it's too limiting. You can get them cheaper directly from Japanese retailers, or from Shimomura itself at http://shimomurado.cart.fc2.com/?page=2 It's in Japanese, but you can view via Google Translate. Edit: As viable alternative which is in stock in the UK (as I type, anyway...) HM Hobbies has the MRP scribers. I've not used them, but they have a good rep. Edited February 16, 2022 by Ade H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FinnAndersen Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 What about these Tamiya scribers? https://www.super-hobby.dk/products/Fine-Engraving-Blade-0.1mm.html Super hooby is in Poland, which is a lot closer than Japan. /Finn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now