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Airbrush paint splatter?


BigTony3o3
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So I just started having problems with my airbrush we're when I start to paint semi large areas on my model the paint from my airbrush starts to I guess dry in the air and leave a anti slip textor or a sandpaper texture all over the model. I don't know if it's because I need to thin it more,  bad air pressure, to far away form the model, or my airbrush is just getting to old. I'm planning on getting a new airbrush so I  dont want it to keep happening with the new one. I use Tamiya xf series of paint and I thin it with only Tamiya lacquer thinner in a cup before I pour it in the airbrush. Thanks for your time

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XF are acrylic paints, why are you thinning them with thinner for lacquers? 

To be explicit - I am certain, this is the reason. Tamiya acrylics must be thinned with water and/or IPA (IsoPropylAlcohol, not India Pale Ale).

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32 minutes ago, Pin said:

XF are acrylic paints, why are you thinning them with thinner for lacquers? 

To be explicit - I am certain, this is the reason. Tamiya acrylics must be thinned with water and/or IPA (IsoPropylAlcohol, not India Pale Ale).

No, it does actually work. I've started using this method quite regularly and have had zero problems. In fact the Tamiya Laquer thinner with retarder or Mr Levelling Thinner are much better than the basic X20A. Give it a go.

 

@BigTony3o3

The sandpaper effect is,as you say, because you are too far away and/or it's too warm, so the paint is drying in the air.

Thin roughly 50/50 and lower the pressure, about 15psi or so and get a bit closer.

 

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1 minute ago, Stef N. said:

No, it does actually work. I've started using this method quite regularly and have had zero problems. In fact the Tamiya Laquer thinner with retarder or Mr Levelling Thinner are much better than the basic X20A. Give it a go.

 

I don't use X20A either as it is essentially IPA, just 5 times as expensive. 

Additionally you have mentioned that you add retarder (AKA levelling thinner) that compensates fast drying effect.

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I have read about getting IPA rather than the branded stuff as a massive money saver. But I'd barely use it so would have a large bottle sitting around.

Tamiya and Mr Hobby both do versions of their lacquer thinners with retarder already added. A tad more expensive but are really great to spray with. (Good health and safety practices are essential though.)

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Apologies if I'm preaching to the converted but this sometimes happens with me when the air, then paint and back again action is rushed on the airbrush trigger. 

If you are thinking of buying a new airbrush I can recommend the Mr Hobby PS 289. I've got one myself and it's excellent value for money 

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Tamiya and GSI (Gunze Sangyo) paints are chemically identical, they are different in pigment composition.

When working with lacquers retarders are not always needed / wanted, basically you only need retarder when you want to achieve high gloss, this is why they are sold separately from thinners. 

 

 

 

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Tamiya XF is a acrylic which can be thinned with Tamiya/MLT lacquer thinners, in fact they actually spray better with these than their X20A which tends to make them dry very matt and be prone to getting a rough finish.

If I use XF I always use MLT as it gives a far better smoother finish

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28 minutes ago, NIK122 said:

Apologies if I'm preaching to the converted but this sometimes happens with me when the air, then paint and back again action is rushed on the airbrush trigger. 

If you are thinking of buying a new airbrush I can recommend the Mr Hobby PS 289. I've got one myself and it's excellent value for money 

That is a terrible habit I have picked up over the years and it is hard to shake off now. I am trying to release the trigger slowly but I still forget.👍

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I don't think that Tamiya X/XF "hybrid" acrylics and the similar Mr Hobby Aqueous range are actually chemically identical. Internet myth, I suspect. Otherwise, they would smell the same (they don't), perform identically (ditto), and probably use exactly the same jars. As lacquer thinner (aka. cellulose thinner) is compatible with these paints, it's not a huge leap to estimate that their particular polymeric suspension is a type of cellulose (an organic polymer); but the carrier formulation must be somewhat different, hence the different smell.

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1 hour ago, Pin said:

XF are acrylic paints, why are you thinning them with thinner for lacquers? 

To be explicit - I am certain, this is the reason. Tamiya acrylics must be thinned with water and/or IPA (IsoPropylAlcohol, not India Pale Ale).

I always saw people use Tamiya lacquer thinner so that's what I used, never had a problem till the last couple of models but I'm planning on getting me leveling thinner 400 for the next one since it's apparently vary good

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5 hours ago, BigTony3o3 said:

So I just started having problems with my airbrush we're when I start to paint semi large areas on my model the paint from my airbrush starts to I guess dry in the air and leave a anti slip textor or a sandpaper texture all over the model. I don't know if it's because I need to thin it more,  bad air pressure, to far away form the model, or my airbrush is just getting to old. I'm planning on getting a new airbrush so I  dont want it to keep happening with the new one. I use Tamiya xf series of paint and I thin it with only Tamiya lacquer thinner in a cup before I pour it in the airbrush. Thanks for your time

Possible causes:
1. As @Stef N. writes, this can happen due to excessive distance, due to too high a temperature.
2. Excessive air pressure can also occur
3. It is possible that the air channels of the airbrush are clogged with dried paint - since you use Tamiya acrylic, it washes well with IPS, it should take a few hours to soak the airbrush in it.
4. The O-ring may be broken
5. The tip of the needle may be bent
6. Nozzle may be cracked
7. This can also happen if the paint flow is not sufficiently perpendicular to the surface to be painted.

 

Tamiya acrylic is the least capricious paint I have ever used. I really like that they almost never dry on an airbrush needle.

 

Recommendations:
1. As written by @Stef N., it is possible to use Mr.Leveling Thinner, it does not allow the paint to dry too quickly without reaching the surface. I can confirm that with Tamiya acrylic it works great, I have been using this particular combination of paint and thinner.
Another advantage of using Mr. Leveling Thinner is that I also dilute Mr.Metal Color paint (in my opinion, the best metallics). So, instead of using two thinners, I use one - it’s very convenient
2. A little glossy varnish can be added to the Tamiya acrylic. The paint layer becomes smoother and less matte

3. If Mr.Thiner or Mr.Leveling Thinner are used, neither IPS nor other diluents based on it may be used with them.

4. Dilute the paint in a ratio of at least 50/50 (I like even more diluting the paint, then the paint layer is much thinner and smoother, and if hairspray technology is used, chipping looks much more natural).

 

All of this, of course, is only my personal opinion, it is by no means intergalactic wisdom :D

 

Vytautas

P.S The number, for example, 250 on Mr.Thiner's bottle, does not indicate its type but the volume of the bottle

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