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1/700 Fujimi Ise - plane guy tries building a boat


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Hey Folks!

 

I got badly bitten by the battleship bug 😎

 

I had build some naval models as a kid, but wanted to have another go! - was going to start with Fujimi's 1/700 Ise (421520) , no PE, but I do have some EZ line for aircraft that may be useful?

 

any tips and advice greatly appreciated! :D

 

IMG-20220124-145642.jpg

 

i filled the gaps in the deck with super-diluted tamiya putty, thinking removing excess with: a) pure acetone  b) nail police remover c) lacquer thinner?


IMG-20220124-145715.jpg
 

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10 hours ago, Modelraynz said:

no PE, but I do have some EZ line for aircraft that may be useful?



 

 

 

Good luck! You'll never look back. EZ line may be useful for rigging, but in my experience anything elastic will tend to pull all but the strongest injection moulded masts out of line. Many modellers substitute these parts with brass rod for this reason. I know it sounds old fashioned, but I still haven't found anything better for rigging small-scale models than good old stretched sprue!

 

Will

 

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Welcome to the floaty side! There does appear to be pe for this kit, if you search on scalemates but depends on how much detail and/or cost you want. Sorry if I misunderstood the above, headache today is affecting my comprehension...

 

Must say, a very interesting choice, especially for a self-confessed plane guy. I'd just try to sand back the putty after using a scalpel to get rid of the worst of it, acetone etc may damage the styrene? But then I'm no expert.

 

Good luck and will be following this with interest.

 

David

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10 hours ago, Killingholme said:

 

 

Good luck! You'll never look back. EZ line may be useful for rigging, but in my experience anything elastic will tend to pull all but the strongest injection moulded masts out of line. Many modellers substitute these parts with brass rod for this reason. I know it sounds old fashioned, but I still haven't found anything better for rigging small-scale models than good old stretched sprue!

 

Will

 

Cheers Will! Good to know!

 

Ive never managed to get consistency with stretching sprue - probably too close to flame etc! Will have to give it another go 😊

 

10 hours ago, Adm Lord De Univers said:

Welcome to the floaty side! There does appear to be pe for this kit, if you search on scalemates but depends on how much detail and/or cost you want. Sorry if I misunderstood the above, headache today is affecting my comprehension...

 

Must say, a very interesting choice, especially for a self-confessed plane guy. I'd just try to sand back the putty after using a scalpel to get rid of the worst of it, acetone etc may damage the styrene? But then I'm no expert.

 

Good luck and will be following this with interest.

 

David

Cheers David! I'll be leaving PE for my first build but started collecting for future ones :D

 

I couldn't decide battleship or carrier? , so why not both 😅 (i do like the japanese battleship asthetic, plus are far more abundant here than other subjects! )

 

I found using tamiya lacquer thinner and just running the qtip over the cap underside puts enough solvent on without eating the plastic....doneost of the deck and trying to decide if it was worth the effort!

 

Ill put some pics up later 🙂

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4 hours ago, Modelraynz said:

i do like the japanese battleship asthetic,

Gidday, and agreed. 🙂 Beauty in the eye of the beholder and all that, I rather like the looks of the Nagato and later versions of the Kongo classes. But that's just me. About 4 decades ago I made a IJN Hyuga model for a nephew, about 1/1200 scale I think. I'm interested in seeing how yours turns out.

     Regards, Jeff.

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On 1/24/2022 at 2:04 AM, Modelraynz said:

Hey Folks!

 

I got badly bitten by the battleship bug 😎

 

I had build some naval models as a kid, but wanted to have another go! - was going to start with Fujimi's 1/700 Ise (421520) , no PE, but I do have some EZ line for aircraft that may be useful?

 

any tips and advice greatly appreciated! :D

 

IMG-20220124-145642.jpg

 

i filled the gaps in the deck with super-diluted tamiya putty, thinking removing excess with: a) pure acetone  b) nail police remover c) lacquer thinner?


IMG-20220124-145715.jpg
 

I've never used EZ line so don't know how it compares in terms of elasticity, but I've used Uschi rigging thread on many 1/700 builds (mostly Trumpeter kits) without any noticeable flexing issues with plastic mast parts. It comes in several grades of thickness, but they are all gossamer thin yet surprisingly durable. 

 

One technique is to attach the thread slightly loose and then tighten it by using the heat from an incense stick to shrink the thread, but this carries its own risks as I found out when my depth perception let me down and I accidentally melted through a plastic main mast - oops!

 

It will be interesting to see how the Uschi line interacts with Flyhawk 1/700 mast parts, which appear to be of a softer plastic than those of Trumpeter. I'm optimistic that unless over-tightened then the ultra thin thread will take the strain instead of the mast parts.

 

Regards,

Ross.

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On 1/24/2022 at 2:04 AM, Modelraynz said:

Hey Folks!

 

I got badly bitten by the battleship bug 😎

It happens 🤣 welcome to the cultured side ☺️

 

I've used EZ line for 1/350 and it's still too thick. The other downside is prolonged exposure to sunlight will eventually dissolve the thread completely 😬

 

For 1/700 I followed professional advice and used Caenis fly-tying thread, thinner than human hair (although I've also used my wife's hair 😂) and use a tiny blob of some sort of sticky cement (like GS Hypo jewellery glue) to secure each end.

 

The other possibility if you don't like stretched sprue is using very fine wire, stretched slightly and sprayed black. It'll be dead straight and you can cut it to desired length. 

tn_DSCF5031

This is 1/350 using both techniques, it's what I use now, but you'll settle for whatever works for you!

 

Good luck with the Ise 👍

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1 hour ago, Ravens said:

I've never used EZ line so don't know how it compares in terms of elasticity, but I've used Uschi rigging thread on many 1/700 builds (mostly Trumpeter kits) without any noticeable flexing issues with plastic mast parts. It comes in several grades of thickness, but they are all gossamer thin yet surprisingly durable. 

 

One technique is to attach the thread slightly loose and then tighten it by using the heat from an incense stick to shrink the thread, but this carries its own risks as I found out when my depth perception let me down and I accidentally melted through a plastic main mast - oops!

Hi Ross, thanks for the advice! ill have a look at getting some uschi thread, any particular thickness best for 700 scale?

 

18 minutes ago, Alan P said:

It happens 🤣 welcome to the cultured side ☺️

 

I've used EZ line for 1/350 and it's still too thick. The other downside is prolonged exposure to sunlight will eventually dissolve the thread completely 😬

 

For 1/700 I followed professional advice and used Caenis fly-tying thread, thinner than human hair (although I've also used my wife's hair 😂) and use a tiny blob of some sort of sticky cement (like GS Hypo jewellery glue) to secure each end.

 

The other possibility if you don't like stretched sprue is using very fine wire, stretched slightly and sprayed black. It'll be dead straight and you can cut it to desired length. 

 

This is 1/350 using both techniques, it's what I use now, but you'll settle for whatever works for you!

 

Good luck with the Ise 👍

hahah Cheers Alan!

there is something really nice working on a maritime model listening to Naval histroy  (Drachinifels channel is becoming by building companion!   https://www.youtube.com/c/Drachinifel  )

 

its sounding like EZ line probably issnt suitable, This arvo I came across a mention of Caenis fly tying thread also! - probably wont risk using the wifes hair either! 😅  thats a great diorama!! Ill have to learn to do water textures!...one step at a time :D

 

Here are the results of cleanup with vapour amounts of lacquer thinner on a qtip - was it worth it? maybe......i probably diddnt need to do the whole deck join above the barbettes (aircraft hangover)  the white is polishing compound leftovers! the catapault pieces need the most work ( the date plate detail is still by the joins)!

 

IMG-20220125-221557.jpg


IMG-20220125-221720.jpg


IMG-20220125-221740.jpg

 

 

 

 

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50 minutes ago, Modelraynz said:

Hi Ross, thanks for the advice! ill have a look at getting some uschi thread, any particular thickness best for 700 scale?

I usually use the 'standard' thickness for 1/700. I've also used the thinner sized thread, but found it was bordering on being invisible unless standing very close to the model. Ultimately it doesn't make too much difference to the scale of the model and I'd happily use the standard thickness for either 1/700 or 1/350 scales, however if there's any concern over mast parts bending then the thinner stuff might be a prudent choice.

 

Ross.

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Uschi rigging thread is highly elastic and light and if done properly so that the the stuff isn't stretched much it is unsurpassed in its ease of use and the endproduct also surpasses stretched sprue by a mile imo.

I use the 0.01 for 1/700 and 0.02 or 0.03 for 1/350. 0.03 for 1/700 looks far too thick imo to be a realistic contender but in terms of looks all of them will do.

As an aside, if you don't want to do PE but want to give the model a little more intricate aa guns and radars and stuff Finemolds has great plastic stuff. Your build till now looks clean and I can only commend you for picking an IJN ship to start with🤣

here is an example of 0.001 rigging (bended mast was from a fall not from the cables pulling too harshly)spacer.png

Edited by IJNfan
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Hiya thanks for the rigging advice ijnfan! :) I have seen the finemolds and other manufacturers aftermarket parts, but unsure was if worth it, great model!!! Part of me wonder if i should have tried a carrier first!

 

Today some supplies arrived!  (nagato or haruna in stash..... Tempting 😎

 

IMG-20220126-215001.jpg

Edited by Modelraynz
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12 hours ago, Modelraynz said:

Hiya thanks for the rigging advice ijnfan! :) I have seen the finemolds and other manufacturers aftermarket parts, but unsure was if worth it, great model!!! Part of me wonder if i should have tried a carrier first!

 

Today some supplies arrived!  (nagato or haruna in stash..... Tempting 😎

 

IMG-20220126-215001.jpg

In all Honesty, Carrier's are the least interesting because they tend to be flat and boring, so that means gotta decorate the deck with bombs and torpedoes and carts. So be careful with that. Which Nagato did you get, the 1/350?

Edited by IJNfan
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On 25/01/2022 at 20:05, Alan P said:

It happens 🤣 welcome to the cultured side ☺️

 

I've used EZ line for 1/350 and it's still too thick. The other downside is prolonged exposure to sunlight will eventually dissolve the thread completely 😬

 

For 1/700 I followed professional advice and used Caenis fly-tying thread, thinner than human hair (although I've also used my wife's hair 😂) and use a tiny blob of some sort of sticky cement (like GS Hypo jewellery glue) to secure each end.

 

The other possibility if you don't like stretched sprue is using very fine wire, stretched slightly and sprayed black. It'll be dead straight and you can cut it to desired length. 

tn_DSCF5031

This is 1/350 using both techniques, it's what I use now, but you'll settle for whatever works for you!

 

Good luck with the Ise 👍

I also use Caenis sometimes, for 1/700, but usually find that human hair gives good results. I also found that hair thickness varies a lot from person to person, and may change with age. My wife's hair (or hair from anyone who has ever dyed the hair) looks convincing in 1/350, but not smaller scales. For 1/700 I always end up using my daughter's hair, or Caenis. If you find a suitable "donor", nothing beats hair in terms of ease to manoeuvre into tricky spots.

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