fishplanebeer Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 I've just bought the Arma kit but have never attempted a silver paint job before so I'm after some advice please in terms of the best approach and paints to use (with airbrush) as most of the decal options are silver and those that are not are less than inspiring. I know DK Decals do a nice sheet with olive drab schemes but £17+ is a bit steep so I need to bite the bullet at long last and have a go. Plus I'll probably get their P51D when it appears and these will definitely need to be silver/natural metal. Regards Colin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Ranger Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 AK Interactive Xtreme Metal. It's an enamel that gives excellent results. Available in many shades, but Aluminum, Dark Aluminum, and Duraluminum will get you started. You'll also need their thinner. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Hugo Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 I always enjoyed using the Metaliser range (now long defunct) and now the Alclad range. Humbrol also make a Metalcote that was relitively easy to use But remember, all these metal finishes are very soft and rub off/mark easily, Also the oils/acids from your fingers will etch in and leave finger prints in time, Use soft cotton gloves (like the photo printing staff used to use) to handle your model. Some modellers swear by using a Tamiya rattle can silver as a base coat and use the softer paints for panels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FinnAndersen Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 2 hours ago, Charlie Hugo said: ... Alclad range. ... But remember, all these metal finishes are very soft and rub off/mark easily, Also the oils/acids from your fingers will etch in and leave finger prints in time, Use soft cotton gloves (like the photo printing staff used to use) to handle your model. ... Not my experience, Alclad can be masked very shortly after applying and are not prone to lifting. It goes on beautifully, but requires an absolutely blemish free and clean surface. I also use their primer https://www.hannants.co.uk/product/ALC302-60?result-token=5OclJ I recommend Alclad. /Finn Edit: Alclad was used for the CA15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dov Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 Hallo Yes, times ago I used Alclad. Today never again. It's an immense, pointless extra effort. The same result can be achieved with Gunze's Mr.Color. With the difference that the stuff isn't that dangerous and the color lasts. Mr.COLOR PAINT / THINNER / SPRAY C 8 is Alu, but SM 201 and others. Link: MR.COLOR SUPER METALLIC 2 Here you have an easy handling. For all SM colors: Apply Mr. COLOR or Mr. COLOR SPRAY BLACK (gloss) as a base coat before painting in order to give the best metallic touch. And seal the painted surface with Mr. Super Clear, Mr. Super Clear UV Cut or TOPCOAT. The Flycatcher from my wife, the F4-B all in 1/32 were sprayed woith this colors. Happy modelling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alt-92 Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 Another vote for AK Xtreme Metal. Can be used straight from the jar, no additional thinning required. For best results, used over a very dark grey or black gloss basecoat (Tamiya X-1 for instance), that is polished smooth if you want a more mirror-like finish. The Super Metallics @dov refers to are also nice, and apparently you can buff those as well - but that is a messy process Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Harmsworth Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 The answer(s) to your question would really depend on what type of paint you use. If acrylics then I can recommend Vallejo Metal Color over a gloss black primer. In any event it's not that difficult but I would say that preparing the plastic is the most important step as any metallic finish will be very unforgiving and show every scratch and blemish. Lots of sanding and polishing pays huge dividends. Mark 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishplanebeer Posted January 20, 2022 Author Share Posted January 20, 2022 As I'm a dedicated 'enamel' user it looks like AK Interactive is the way to go so just a few quick supplementary questions if I may please. What is the best/correct colour primer to be used? What is the best/correct varnish to apply pre and post decaling? (I normally use enamel varnishes) How sensitive is the paint to handling both pre and post varnishing? (I normally use non-latex surgical gloves during the painting process) Sorry if this all a bit basic but the last time I used silver paint was Humbrol with a brush when I was 12 years old and the results were not great, especially when it came to trying to apply another non-metallic paint along side or over it - it just became a sparkly indistinct smudge! Regards Colin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alt-92 Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 1 hour ago, fishplanebeer said: (I normally use enamel varnishes) Enamels over enamels - i.e. more specifically, the solvents - will likely re-activate the paint layer again. If I'd use a varnish at all, I'd use an acrylic-based varnish as that does not affect the enamel paint layer. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishplanebeer Posted January 21, 2022 Author Share Posted January 21, 2022 That's interesting as I've always used enamel over enamel without any issues previously so are metallic paints more sensitive perhaps? Regards Colin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FinnAndersen Posted January 21, 2022 Share Posted January 21, 2022 Depends on the paint, I believe, but do not know for sure. 'cause, the first time I used enamel over enamel (it was btw silver), it went terribly wrong, so since I have always used another type of varnish than the paint. If you botch the paint, you need to take stock of the situation and determine if the model is salvageable, so general rule is "don't take chances". /Finn BTW: With the Xtra colour and Alclad I use, I don't have to have a vanish over the paint before applying decals. Saves a layer of paint and some time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Ranger Posted January 21, 2022 Share Posted January 21, 2022 Any color primer will work for a metallic finish; the only caveat being that it must be glossy, smooth, and blemish free. Contrary to what appears to be the conventional wisdom, you do NOT need to use a gloss black primer under any color other than the extremely shiny finishes such as chrome. I use Tamiya's fine surface primer, both white and gray, and Mr. Surfacer. I make sure the unpainted plastic is clean and as smooth as possible, spray the primer (decanted for airbrush application), and polish it with increasingly finer grades of sandpaper (up to and including 2,500 grit) and then buff it with a microfiber cloth. Then I use a tack cloth to remove any residual dust. And it IS possible to use enamel over enamel without any issues whatsoever. I've been doing it for over 60 years, with both brush and spray. Note that enamels do not "dry" through evaporation of the solvent, but instead cure through polymerization. Once they are completely cured (which typically takes around 24 hours, but can take more or less depending on formulation) a second coat can be applied without any problems. Just follow the manufacturers advice. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlie Hugo Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 20 hours ago, fishplanebeer said: That's interesting as I've always used enamel over enamel without any issues previously so are metallic paints more sensitive perhaps? Regards Colin. yes, metallics tend to grey out and loose their metallic lustre when overcoated with enamel varnish. I still have a couple bottles of Metalizer varnish that I hoarding 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Ranger Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 Clear coating metallic finishes can be iffy, as Charlie Hugo points out. I’d suggest using a water-based clear coat such as Alclad’s Aqua Gloss or AK’s Gauzy Shine. Future/Klear is still a popular clear coat, and you can adjust the degree of “shine” by adding Tamiya’s Flat Base to it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnson Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 Alclad II Aluminium has always worked extremely well for me. Straight onto the clean plastic. Sprays on very thin so blemishes and scratches will be visible. Has never lifted with masking when used like that in my experience. I used Alclad Aluminium on my P-51D in the Mustang STGB Beware of using black gloss coat primer as masking can lift metallic finishes, not just alclad. Experiment first before committing to your model, a trawl through the posts in the recent Mustang STGB will show you what I mean. Last time I bought direct from Alclad as the post was very reasonable. Need a vapour mask when spraying, or so I reckon. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozothenutter Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 On 1/20/2022 at 8:29 PM, fishplanebeer said: As I'm a dedicated 'enamel' user it looks like AK Interactive is the way to go so just a few quick supplementary questions if I may please. What is the best/correct colour primer to be used? What is the best/correct varnish to apply pre and post decaling? (I normally use enamel varnishes) How sensitive is the paint to handling both pre and post varnishing? (I normally use non-latex surgical gloves during the painting process) Sorry if this all a bit basic but the last time I used silver paint was Humbrol with a brush when I was 12 years old and the results were not great, especially when it came to trying to apply another non-metallic paint along side or over it - it just became a sparkly indistinct smudge! Regards Colin. Humbrol 11, te paint that NEVER dries...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72modeler Posted January 22, 2022 Share Posted January 22, 2022 39 minutes ago, Bozothenutter said: Humbrol 11, te paint that NEVER dries...... Decant that amber liquid solvent layer that is on top of the pigment layer and replace with lacquer thinner- that'll show it who's boss! Mike 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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