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1/12 BT44B 1975


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1 hour ago, Coors54 said:

That u/j looks the dog's. Unless you're keen to have operating steering could you lose the awful cog affair and scratch a more proto typical tubular rack? I did a similar thing with my BMW CSL -

 

spacer.png

 

Just a thought, I plan on doing this with my next F1 builds.

 

Dave

 

Hi Dave...wow!...that's a brilliant steering rack mate...way beyond my skills...superb.

 

TBH...one thing I learned from the Ferrari...some things are just pointless if you are going to cover them up at the end.

With the 312T...knowing it would be displayed in an undressed format...a lot of what I did can be seen...even so...there's a huge amount that can't...also...this one will simply be in a case only slightly bigger than the car...so displayed fully dressed.

Another aspect with this kit that has influenced the build plan is...as such...(and as opposed to the 312T)...it doesn't have a chassis.

That means that the upper and lower body panels are the chassis...and they are very thin and flexible...so very difficult to do any real structural mods or additions outside of directly replacing kit plastic with metals.

I will illustrate this better when I get to them.

It had occured to me to cover the kit parts with a tube to disguise the very basic and inaccurate steering rack...however...a lack of any decent pics dissuaded me.

 

Cheers for comment mate...and really appreciate your thoughts as always.

 

Ron

 

 

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To better show what I meant in the comments above regarding the lack of a chassis...the main component being the upper body.....

 

1.jpg

 

Average thickness of the shell is 1.24mm...so very 'flimsy' as it stands...in fact...Tamiya require you to spread it apart when later locating the interior tub inside it ! 😱...(keep in mind that the bodywork will have been painted/decaled and clear coated by that time).

Whether this will have a detrimental effect on the finished bodywork remains to be seen...although I haven't yet seen or heard any reports of such.

 

Another area I have had to consider...what is missing...and what do I want to add in terms of missing details etc.

Two of the primary issues are...1) the missing raised edge to the opening for adjusting pedals and the like...and 2) the simplistic moulded attachment points for the front shocks.

The first is an easy fix...simply a strip of thin ali plate.....

 

4.jpg

 

For the second...not so easy!

It will require the removal of the moulded 'bar'...and the fabrication of a more accurate set up.

Once again...I must thank my F1 'guru' Malc2...who helped me understand how the 1:1 set up is done...and from his advice...and a couple of pics he kindly sent me...I came up with this sketch of how it should look.....

 

Top-Front-Shock-Mount.jpg

 

I had hoped the front suspension frames would provide and ideal locating point...sadly not...so I need to have a long think about how I can do this.....

 

6.jpg

 

As you can see...they are a long way from where I need the shock locating points to be 🤬

 

Another area for detailing later is around the opening at the rear...I will replace the moulded stubs with bolts.....

 

8.jpg

 

Lastly...a shot of the tub...suspension frames...and front and rear bulkheads temporarily in situ...effectively forming the chassis inside the upper bodywork...and also serving to tighten up the main component of the car.

As you can see...not a lot of room to play with...and needing the bottom plate to tie it all together.....

 

2.jpg

 

to be continued............

 

 

 

 

Edited by silver911
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HI Ron, 

 

I am a bit confused by what you are saying above - is the shock mount spatially in the wrong location, or, are you speaking in term of being in need of modifications to allow you to do what you want them to?  As I was curious, I looked up  the instructions and found this:

 

51927108010_6993401fd8_c.jpg

 

I can see how it will not be easy to fit your solution (which I like) into the shock tower - you'll need two extra hands!  But, I'm confident you will get it sorted!  😓😀

 

Looking forward to seeing your next update

 

Cheers

Nick 

 

 

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Hi Nick,

if you look at how the kit shocks are made...with 'clip on' attachment points at each end...you will remember my penchant for removing them in favour of real metal connections that allow me to use bolts etc.

Such as the rear shocks on the 312T.....

 

IMG-6051.jpg

 

Applying this mod to the BT44b would prevent me from being able to do that...because the kit moulded point will only accept said 'clip on'.

Not only that but...no matter how good you are with a brush and paint...it will never look anything other than a painted blob.

In creating the correct 1:1 style of attachment...I not only avoid the painting issue...but will also have a much more realistic looking set-up.

 

Hope that all makes sense mate :)

 

Ron

 

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Hi Ron, yes, understand and am eager to see your progress.  I misunderstood your comment about the part (shock tower) - that is, do you need to relocate it or heavily modify it?  Sounds like the latter.  I’m in the middle of something similar as part of a conversion of a Toyota Land Cruiser from the enclosed body to a pickup, with scratchbuilt four link front and rear suspension.  I’m about half way through the suspension, so your steps are interesting to see.
 

Thanks for clarification 

cheers 

Nick 

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Hi Ron,

 

Not sure about the guru bit!!!!

I had a doodle and tried to convey the way I would have a first go.

My solution assumes the removal of the kit feature on the top surface and making a slot in the body through which the newly made part protrudes.

Because the damper leans to the outside quite sharply the new web may not need vey much removing to clear the damper top.

(Even extend the web down with just a hole to clear the damper top, which would make it easier to make?).

The doublers form a shoulder that butt up to the underside of the tamiya body.

This has got to be simillar to the real car as it would need significant strength in this area to handle the input load spikes.

Have a look and let me know if it makes sense.

IMG-7068-Copy.jpg

 

Malc.

Edited by Malc2
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2 hours ago, Malc2 said:

Hi Ron,

 

Not sure about the guru bit!!!!

I had a doodle and tried to convey the way I would have a first go.

My solution assumes the removal of the kit feature on the top surface and making a slot in the body through which the newly made part protrudes.

Because the damper leans to the outside quite sharply the new web may not need vey much removing to clear the damper top.

(Even extend the web down with just a hole to clear the damper top, which would make it easier to make?).

The doublers form a shoulder that butt up to the underside of the tamiya body.

This has got to be simillar to the real car as it would need significant strength in this area to handle the input load spikes.

Have a look and let me know if it makes sense.

IMG-7068-Copy.jpg

 

Malc.

 

Hi Malc,

in all honesty I am confused.

I get what your saying about retaining part of the kit moulded detail...in as much as just removing the centre bar where the kit part would clip on to...although this leaves the issue of the 'painted blob' I explained to Nick.

Also...I agree with your concern for load bearing strength...and it's this aspect of your idea that confuses me!

How are you saying the top of the shock would be held in place???

 

Thanks for input.

 

Ron

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Hi Ron,

 

Sorry its not clear. V2 of my confuser attached!

I would remove ALL the kit detail on the top surface relating to the damper.

I would then make a slot in the body top where the raised lumps used to be at each end of the bar.

This allows the new scratch built part you just made to push through, hence the shoulders that provide a limit stop.

One advantage being you could assemble the damper/spring assy and damper tower together and then glue the whole lot in to the tub.

Possibly after painting the body - assuming you are leaving the floor off until after paint?

IMG-7069-Copy.jpg

 

Malc.

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That makes more sense Malc :)

 

In effect...very close to my own intentions.

 

I will document each stage as I go...so all should become much clearer 😱

 

I kow it will seem a lot of work for little return to many...however...it kind of defeats the objectives I have set myself if I don't attend to this detail.

 

Your help and advice is greatly appreciated mate.

 

Ron

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So...with a better understanding of what needs to be done regards the front top shock mounts...I have taken the plunge!

This is the kit as it comes.....

 

1A.jpg

 

My solution to removing the unwanted parts was...first to carefully run a scalpel blade down the raised sides of the 'bars'...and drill a couple of holes to remove some of the excess plastic.....

 

2B.jpg

 

Then I cut out the centre piece with my fine cutters...followed by some work with the scalpel blade and a micro chisel...and lastly a carefull sanding.....

 

3C.jpg

 

A test fit of the suspension frames shows a fair bit of clearance to fabricate the new mounts and get a good bond.....

 

4D.jpg

 

Next I moved onto the rear of the bodywork...drilling out the holes for metal bolts.....

 

5E.jpg

 

It was when I had them all drilled out...I spotted another error in the kit!

Tamiya have a part that fits into the opening...which...when fitted...it sits beneath the top surface...and inside the holes I had drilled for the bolts....

 

6F.jpg

 

Compare this to the 1:1...and you can clearly see what I am talking about.....

 

Plate.jpg

 

The obvious answer being to make a plate from some ali...copy the holes onto it...and place it over the opening to test the look and fit.....

 

8H.jpg

 

Once the bolts are in place...along with the other bits...it should create a much better impression than the basic and incorrect kit parts/set-up.

 

to be continued............

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Continuing with the bodywork (clean-up/modifications/detailing).

Because the body locks are supplied on the PE fret...I have been going round and removing them...although the moulded ones are good...doing it this way avoids the issue of trying to make them look good with paint.

 

A1L.jpg

 

One detail that...as the kit would have it...just looks very wrong when done Tamiya's way!

They supply the cover (bubble) for the gearshift area...which...when in place...does half the job.....

 

A1A.jpg

 

Trouble is...on the inside of the cockpit shroud...it's just a flat panel...which really does spoil the effect.....

 

A1B.jpg

 

A bit more drilling and cutting required.

First I masked off the surrounding area...and using the kit part...I marked out where it fitted...then...allowing for the thickness of the kit part...marked out a template for drilling...followed by some careful scalpel work to remove the area.....

 

A1D.jpgA1E.jpg

 

Then just a case of gluing the cover in place.

It needs refining and cleaning up...but better than a blank area as the kit portrays.

 

Next up was the nose cone.

Although moulded nice and deep...the two lower vents are solid.....

 

A1G.jpg

 

Yet more drilling and sanding needed.....

 

A1H.jpg

 

Another missing detail is the...what I assume is a socket for connecting to the cabin electrics...the socket itself.....

 

PLUG-DETAIL.jpg

 

A simple case of drilling a hole...then fabricating said socket.....

 

A1I.jpgA1J.jpgA1K.jpg

 

I stilll have to drill the four holes for the mounting screws...make an internal mounting plate...and cut the socket to the correct length.

 

Although this kit has fewer parts than the 312T...I have begun to realise the BT44b is far more complex...in that...all of this work is needed because the body panels will have to be completed (paint/decals/clear coat) before assembly can begin in earnest.

 

to be continued............

 

 

Edited by silver911
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Nice work Ron, the gear shift cut out will make a big difference in the cockpit.

 

Quick question without checking period pictures, is that electrical socket a later addition so the car doesn't have to carry a battery?

A lot of historic racers try and reduce weight but I'm hoping I'm wrong and happy to be shot down!

 

Davef

 

Take me out and shoot me! Good spot, the socket is definitely there in 1975. Now where's my sack cloth?

Edited by Coors54
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15 minutes ago, Coors54 said:

Nice work Ron, the gear shift cut out will make a big difference in the cockpit.

 

Quick question without checking period pictures, is that electrical socket a later addition so the car doesn't have to carry a battery?

A lot of historic racers try and reduce weight but I'm hoping I'm wrong and happy to be shot down!

 

Davef

 

Take me out and shoot me! Good spot, the socket is definitely there in 1975. Now where's my sack cloth?

 

Nice one Dave.

As I have previously said...and having learned from my mistakes with the Ferrari refs...this time around I take nothing for granted...and won't include a detail unless I can quantify it with period correct (actual race) pics.

I had the same doubt as you at first...however...I always thought that if no battery was used...they started the car from the engine and not the cockpit...although...as with your thought...I stand to be corrected.

 

Cheers for input mate...always appreciated :)

 

Ron

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1 hour ago, bigbadbadge said:

Oh wow,  impeccable work, the steering column with the tiny UJ is incredible. 

Great idea to sleeve those holes .

 

Great work 

Chris

 

Many thanks Chris :)

 

I am really pleased I found those UJ's 👍

 

Ron

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Continiuing on with more prep on the bodywork...this time the shroud and screen.

As with the 312T...I wanted to add retaining screws to the screen...although Tamiya do hint at them...they are nothing more than miniscule bumps on the surface!

With both parts having a lot of flex in them...the issue was to ensure there was no movement whilst drilling the holes for the fittings.

My answer to this was...first tape the screen to the shroud...mark and drill the first hole...then insert a pin through the screen and shroud...which prevents any movement between the parts whilst drilling the next hole.

Working from side to side also ensures the holes remain parallel.

What you end up with is a 'porcupine'...but it works.....

 

2B.jpg3B.jpg

 

to be continued............

Edited by silver911
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Whilst still planning how I am going to do the front shock top mounts...I decided to tackle part of the cockpit tub...the gearshift.

Once again...Tamiya's part falls short in terms of detail...this is all you get in the kit.....

 

AA1.jpg

 

It's when you look at a ref of the actual 1:1 that you realise there is far more to this piece in reality.....

 

DASH.jpg

 

Perhaps the most notable ommision is the second linkage below the main one...also...the mounting plate itself (with the rivets).

Looking at the kit part...it was obvious I could keep the front block...and gear knob...but I would need to scratch the rest of it.

 

First off...the mounting plate...this was made from thin ali sheet.....

 

AA2.jpg

 

I then shaped it and drilled holes for some rivets...then removed the shaft section.....

 

AA3.jpg

 

Next I fabricated the shaft from ali and brass tubing and a nut.....

 

AA4.jpg

 

Followed by the gear stick.....

 

AA5.jpg

 

Then it was a case of fabricating the lower linkage...again...a mixture of alii and brass tube...two 1mm eye bolts...and a suitable centre fitting...finally...the end connecting post was drilled through the main block.....

 

AA6.jpg

 

This was disassembled and the rivets added...and final sizes cut...then it was a case of putting it all back together...and adding nuts etc. where needed.....

 

AA7.jpg   AA8.jpg

 

Obviously it needs some wear and tear...with some colour to be added but...another detail sorted for the cockpit :)

 

to be continued............

 

 

Edited by silver911
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6 hours ago, Vesa Jussila said:

More really nice details coming. I will use some of these in my own builds.

 

Many thanks V :)

 

it's a huge compliment that you like and wish to use my ideas in your own excellent work.

 

Ron

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