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1959 Impala 1/32


Ted

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I don't build many car kits, mostly I do 1/35 armour and 1/32 airplanes. Also some figures. But I do love 1/32 car kits. This is an odd one that I couldn't resist because of the box art. There's a lot to like on the box art, the shibu dog with saddlebags but no leash or owner nearby. What is Hot Popcorn Express? store? soda shop? 

 

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Looks really nice, and I'll be doing techniques I've never done before - stripping chrome off the parts and polishing the painted body.

 

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On 1/18/2022 at 5:24 AM, Fnick said:

Looks like a nice kit. Will be interesting to see how good the details are at 1/32 scale. Good luck and don't hesitate to ask for help/advice if needed.

 

Nick

Thanks Nick, I will definitely need some advice when it comes to painting and shining the body.

 

I soaked the plated parts in Spray Nine cleaner, left them to soak overnights and almost all of the chrome was removed.

 

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Looks like a colour option for these was gothic gold. I looked for a cross reference for a Tamiya paint but couldn't find such a thing. What brand of paint is best for car models? What's the best clear coat for polishing that won't clog up the fine details? 

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Hi Ted

 

I've used tamiya TS spray cans for a couple of my car builds and have been very happy. I found the TS 13 (clear coat) does need to go on a bit heavy but once sanded back down and polished it does look good. 

 

If you have an airbrush that does open up more options. Hopefully someone with experience in using one can chip in!

 

Nick

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1 hour ago, Pete in Lincs said:

A Bat wing Chevy. Nice one. Shame that (IMHO) the continental kit spoils that rear end.

 

Had to look up what a continental rear end is...not as streamlined for sure. But I think I like the clumsiness of it.

 

6 minutes ago, bigbadbadge said:

Halfords acrylic rattle cans are good.  You have a large range of colours too.  

Model looks good , it'll be interesting to see what it builds up like. 

Chris

 

I'll have to look for a Canadian equivalent. I worry that our hardware store spray bombs would lay it on too thick.

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One tip someone on here gave which I use if using automotive paint is to swap the nozzle for one from an old can of model paint. The main probelm I have with that is remembering to do it! Also be aware that automotive metallics tend to have larger flakes than model paints and so can look a bit out of scale.

 

I'd tend to agree with Tamiya TS-13 as the best clear, but am a bit wary if using many decals as you need to put some mist coats down as it can attack the decals. For that reason, if a kit has a lot of decals I tend to prefer Humbrol or Revell clear as, although less robust, they tend to be gentler when sprayed.

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Oh yes I should have mentioned the decal eating habit of TS-13... (Well only if you're not careful like I was...)

 

Thanks for the info about Revell/humbrol clear Spiny I didn't know they did one. Guess it is easier on decals as they are acrylic? Have you tried spraying a couple of coats of revell clear to seal in the decals and then TS13 over the top?

 

(Hope you don't mind the slight tangent Ted!)

 

Nick

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Apologies for continuing the thread hijack, but @Ted you did ask about paint!

 

To answer the question above, no I haven't tried putting TS-13 over the Revell, mainly becuase I suspect that the 'hotter' Tamiya paint would react with the Revell. Anyway, a quick rundown of pluses and minuses from my experience.

 

Tamiya

Pros: Best shine, hardest finish

Cons: Most likely to eat decals (hottest), different smell makes me thing it's likely to react with more water-based paints

 

Revell

Pros: Polishes to a good shine, good finish straight out of the spray can, never had it attack decals

Cons: Can soften if handled with bare hands, hard to find for sale at the moment (and I'm not even sure if it made it to North America in the first place!)

 

Humbrol

Pros: Doesn't eat decals, can be polishes to a decent shine

Cons: Not yet got a good finish straight out of the can, seems more likely to cloud if sprayed in high humidity

 

Whichever I've used, to get a really good shine I'e had to polish the paint - usually starting at 6000 grit (sometimes 4000), then 8000 and 12,000 grit before polishing compounds. The polishing really can make a different as this bonnet with one side polished and one side not shows:

 

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6 hours ago, Spiny said:

Apologies for continuing the thread hijack, but @Ted you did ask about paint!

 

 

 

I did, and I'm very grateful for the information. Thanks all, I'll get a can of the Tamiya TS13.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I made it to the local hobby shop yesterday, it is 100 km from here 😐. Picked up the supplies to move forward on this Impala. It was a toss up which gold paint to buy and I settled on Mr. Colour Red Gold. The Chevrolet colour Gothic Gold seems to have a brown tone and this paint was the closest I could find. I did three test spoons, on the right is red gold over primer, the middle is red gold over a coat of Tamiya flat brown, and the left is the gold with an overcoat of brown ink. The ink beaded up on the surface and pooled in the cracks so it won't work. I settled on a flat brown undercoat because it does seem to add some colour to the gold top coat.

 

It was my first time using Mr. Colour and it was a bit of a revelation. I had to thin it quite a bit to get it through my airbrush but it went on beautifully.

 

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Now even shinier after a gloss coat. I also started brush painting the chrome with Vallejo metal colour silver. But best of all, I found a 1/35 Tamiya dog in my stash that looks a lot like the shiba inu on the box art. I'll sculpt some saddlebags for it.

 

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6 hours ago, Fnick said:

That is a lovely colour and some very tidy brush work.👏. What colour have you choose for the interior?

 

Nick

 

 

Thanks Nick,, I like figure painting so I'm treating it a bit like a big shiny figure model. I'll probably do the interior a brown colour similar to the gold. I might try making the seats a three colour striped pattern like I've seen on a couple online photos of restored cars. The seat coverings on the model are not like the actual seats were though so I'm not sure yet. 

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Cars are tricky. You have to be so careful not to mess up the finishes. I mostly finished the body and moved on to the wheels. Next up is the interior.

 

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Thanks very much guys, it's been a fun build. 

 

I dipped the windows in Pledge floor polish to get rid of some scratches.

 

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So after three attempts at painting the roof it looks like this. Luckily the kit includes a rag top option. 

 

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And I painted the details on some of the interior. I still have to paint parts of the steering column and I'll use an oil paint wash on the seats to make them look more like leather.

 

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On 2/6/2022 at 10:35 AM, JeroenS said:

The interior looks great. What happened with the roof??

 

On 2/6/2022 at 11:02 AM, Mr Mansfield said:

Interior looks great. Not easy at this scale!

 

as for the roof, is that what happens if you paint over pledge?

 

 

A comedy of errors happened to the roof, the alligator texture is gloss over paint over gloss. Ugh. I sanded it off and painted again. I'll try gloss tomorrow and see if four times is a charm.

 

Mostly got it together now though. I rubbed some oil paint on the acrylic painted seats to help it look a bit more like leather.

 

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And for accuracy, I added saddlebags to the dog. 

 

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