CF.100 Clunk restoration

[corsaircorp]

3 hours ago, Robin-42 said:

I just thought I would list some details that are missing from Hobbycrafts kits for those following Dennis’s adventure. Couple of tips as well. Some quick Googling will get you pictures to back me up. Feel free to correct me if I get anything wrong. First a spotters guide to the later Clunks. Mk1-3 differed in a lot of ways, so I will ignore them.

1. Mk4 short wings, short horizontal stabilizer, gun pack, wingtip rocket pods (early Mk4’s were guns only). Wingtip tanks an option.

2. Mk5 long wings, long horizontal stabilizer. Wingtip rocket pods only.

3. Mk5C short wings, long tail planes. Tip tanks only, extra ECM antennas. 
4. MK5D same as 5C with added cooling intake at front of gun pack location.

 

As far as the kits go, they are accurate, but simplified, only gotcha is the tail section, it may need some trimming to prevent drooping.

 

A lot of people complain about the cockpit detail, but it is black…. There are plenty of photo’s on the net if you want to detail it. The worst thing is the main wheels, they look like they belong on a Jaguar. The real ones are very high pressure skinny tires with a unique rim pattern. If you have the budget, Flightline Engineering has them perfect in their set. Also, every photo, other than museum birds shows them with flaps down, they are really simple to drop, the centre flap only has two acuators for detail. My list is just a guide for things I have noticed. If you do nothing, it will still look like a Clunk. 

 

Details missing.

 

MK4

1. Small cooing inlet, left side behind radome.

2. Cooling scoops behind cockpit both sides.

3. Radio compass and mount between seats.

4. There is a comb like discarded cartridge deflector on the gun pack, if you guys can figure out how to make that look right, let me know!

5. Retractable landing light bottom of right wing. It is engraved on the kit.

6. Very small fences at wing tip leading edge.

7. De-ice vanes on engine inlet spinners. 
8. Tailcone was a clear dome with two lights in it.

9. Small fairings for aileron actuators on lower wing.

10. Wheel wells are barren of detail.

 

MK5

Same as Mk4, except no cooling scoops behind cockpit, cartridge deflector or de-ice vanes.

 

 

 

 

 

Wow Thanks Robin !!

Once more my cousin show up in my garden....

I also have a Canuck in my attic, but the 1/48 one...

 

Hello Cousin,

Great idea !! once again !!

However I will not start mine today, I'll save your thread...

I have a booklet about the clunck... Something like the "in action" serie...

So, if I can help ???

You did'nt tried the oven cleaner to get the paint stripped ??

Carry on my friend, I sat at the bar as usual peering over your shoulder !!

CC

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

19 minutes ago, corsaircorp said:

Wow Thanks Robin !!

Once more my cousin show up in my garden....

I also have a Canuck in my attic, but the 1/48 one...

 

Hello Cousin,

Great idea !! once again !!

However I will not start mine today, I'll save your thread...

I have a booklet about the clunck... Something like the "in action" serie...

So, if I can help ???

You did'nt tried the oven cleaner to get the paint stripped ??

Carry on my friend, I sat at the bar as usual peering over your shoulder !!

CC

Hello CC Its ok if you want to build it, the more Canucks (clunks) the better. If I need anything I will ask. No sadly I have a medical issue with one of the chemical’s in oven cleaners so don't use them. Its not contact its inhalation or Id just wear gloves. Ive read brake fluid or hydraulic fluid has the same effect on paint so may try that someday.

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

      Hello everyone … Well we start building today. I must have miss placed one of the turbine front pieces as it wasn't in my bag of parts. I started digging through spares and found these. They're a little undersized but with the black paint should be ok. The paint was drying so will highlight with steel when they're dry. 
 

Here they are from above as you can see they go back a bit. In reality the bits of turbine and tailpipe from an Aires F-18 set. I just reversed the position and glued the turbine face on to the mold plug. 

 

I added weight in the nose and cockpit as there wasn't enough room up front. Ince it was dry the pit was painted Tamiya NATO Grey. I will also give a little color to the seats just so you can see them.

 

When I was ready to close up the fuselage I used plastic strips to create new tabs for more gluing surface area. You can see them here circled in red. I do this with most models even if the tabs are there it allows for more a stronger bond. 

 

Shes sitting now drying and hopefully everything will be good.

 

I will hit the turbine blades with steel later today and should be good with those. I will then drill and add a spar for the starboard wing as the butt joint isn't strong enough in my opinion. Please feel free to ask questions, post comments or add thoughts. 

 

Dennis

[CJP]

I agree with CC,  oven cleaner works well removing enamels not sure about acrylics - just spray it all over the model, put it in a plastic bag for a day and wash off the paint - gloves & mask with the oven cleaner as it is pretty toxic.

Edited January 26, 2022 by CJP

[AdrianMF]

The rescue is looking good! I see it’s a top and bottom half fuselage, which I guess makes sense like the Buccaneer. Looking forward to seeing how this goes.

 

Regards,

Adrian

[corsaircorp]

10 hours ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Hello CC Its ok if you want to build it, the more Canucks (clunks) the better. If I need anything I will ask. No sadly I have a medical issue with one of the chemical’s in oven cleaners so don't use them. Its not contact its inhalation or Id just wear gloves. Ive read brake fluid or hydraulic fluid has the same effect on paint so may try that someday.

Hello cousin !

Sorry about that, I did'nt knew..

Brake fluid is working fine too and it eat putty too, but the clear parts did'nt like the treatment....

Hydraulic fluid ? You mean Dexron 4 used in gear boxes ?? 

3 hours ago, CJP said:

I agree with CC,  oven cleaner works well removing enamels not sure about acrylics - just spray it all over the model, put it in a plastic bag for a day and wash off the paint - gloves & mask with the oven cleaner as it is pretty toxic.

Oven cleaner is good on acrylics too, I tried it....

CC

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

        Good morning everyone … Time for another update on the restoration. To answer my Cousins question. 

 

19 hours ago, corsaircorp said:

Hydraulic fluid ? You mean Dexron 4 used in gear boxes ??

Hello Cousin Im not sure, all I can remember is reading an article awhile ago mentioning the brake fluid for sure. I thought the article also mentioned something about hydraulic fluid as well. Wether Dexron or another type found somewhere else again not sure. 
     To get back to my update, First up tonight was to re-attach the starboard wing. I first drilled a hole in both pieces and using a 1.5mm tube made another spar for it. I then used every glue in my arsenal from tube to Tamiya Extra thin, and on to C/A. After about 10 minutes it started solidifying and most of the gaps look ok. Nothing a bit of filler wont fix. 
 

 

 

You can see in these photo’s that I have also added the tail and stabs. I used a trick I learned when building my Matchbox Meteor. I modified the inner ring on both forward and rear fuselage. I then took two pieces of sprue about 3” inches long and shaped like an “L@. I then glued them into the forward fuselage. Using the notches by the rear burner cans. Once those had set I glued the tail on to the forward fuselage. The sprue skeleton held the tail straight and adds to the strength of the whole unit.

 

 

 

While waiting for that to dry I proceeded to study photo’s and did see two vents that are shoulder mounted on each intake. Just inside and behind them are what appear to be to exhaust vents (they look like holes). 

 

The green vents are surplus from a mig-19 kit. Yes they're not 100% correct in shape, but they look the part and are better than nothing. 

 

I then added the big scoop at the rear of the spine and drilled it out. 

 

Last but not least I built up the second wingtip rocket pod. 

Not bad for a rare attempt at working with a Vacu-form piece. Please feel free to ask questions, post comments or add thoughts. 
 

Dennis

[corsaircorp]

Good job Cousin !!

I also save scoops or bit like that, 

It's always will find a way to a kit or another !!

Nice job on the vac too !!

CC

[opus999]

I can vouch for brake fluid.  I used it for years and it seemed to do well taking off enamel and acrylic.  Sometimes I had to let it sit for a few days.  My new "go-to" is Simple Green.  I mix it up about 50/50 with water and in many cases, the paint is peeling off the next morning.  On occasion I've had to let it sit a few days.  

 

on my current P=51, I stripped most of the paint with Simple Green and the stubborn bits came off easily with Mr. Color levelling thinner.

 

Looking good so far!

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

9 minutes ago, opus999 said:

on my current P=51,

Do you have a WIP ? 

[opus999]

12 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Do you have a WIP ? 

I guess I haven't updated my signature.  Here it is:

 

It's progressing slowly as my Typhoon has all my interest right now, but I expect to make some progress on it late this weekend or early next week.

 

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

        Hell everyone … most work is done and were getting close to paint. Ive actually gotten the vacuform wheels/tires removed and will be building the landing gear up tonight. Other than that here is where she’s sitting right now. 

 

 

 

 

Ive read about tail droop with these. I think Ive gotten this one right, doesn't look like it is drooping to my eyes. 

 

Please feel free to ask questions, post comments or add thoughts. 
 

Dennis

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

        Hello everybody … I figured out the landing gear tonight, it looks like the nose gear is tall but the wheels are a bit smaller than the ones on the main gear. I may trim the N.G. Strut once I have the wheel's mounted and can determine better. 
 

Also looks as if I’ve added enough nose weight so thats a big plus. Please feel free to ask questions, post comments or add thoughts. 

 

Dennis

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

        Good morning everybody … I was able to get about 3.5 hours done tonight. Finished off the office in this and my F-18 build. I was also able to add the canopies to both. 

 

 

 

 

 

Once everything is set I can mask it and move to paint. Please feel free to ask questions, post comments or add thoughts. 

 

 

Dennis

[AdrianMF]

Looking good, especially that last shot with the canopy on.

 

Regards,

Adrian

[opus999]

It's really starting to come together.  Now you've got all the pieces on, I can really imagine what it will look like finished.  Can't wait for painting!

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

       Good afternoon everyone … My apologies for such a long delay in posts. Unfortunately Ive had a family situation occur at the end of January and its slowed my work down. However I’ve been doing what I can when I can and the last four-five days have opened up. So much so that I have done almost all of the painting on all 11 of my builds. So without much more of my lonely babbling here is the CF.100. She will need some touch ups on the de-icers along the wings leading edge. 

 

 

 

 

Please feel free to ask questions, post comments or add thoughts. 

 

Dennis

[billn53]

Progress is progress, can’t complain about that!

[Robin-42]

Just wait until the decals go on, those big maple leafs look awesome!

[AdrianMF]

Nice paint job, really shows off the surface detailing.

 

Regards,

Adrian

[Marklo]

Looks great nmf is so hard and I can see a bit of variation in it too which makes it look all the more realistic.

[opus999]

The NMF looks great and I agree with @Marklo that the variation adds realism.  How did you do it? 

 

This is definitely a plane that benefits from a natural metal finish!  

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

2 hours ago, opus999 said:

The NMF looks great and I agree with @Marklo that the variation adds realism.  How did you do it? 

 

This is definitely a plane that benefits from a natural metal finish!  

Well honestly its an unintentional but a happy coincidence. the only thing I can think of too explain it is my technique. When I A/B I was taught by a mentor to always keep the A/B moving. Mostly tiny circles, figure 8’s, and squiggles. When I say tiny I mean a couple of mm’s (2-5 mm) nothing bigger. I also go panel by panel and change direction of the paint. Same technique when going with camouflage colors. Metal panels in life oddly enough have something like a grain that can be seen at certain angles and in certain lighting conditions. I always spray my metal colors over a gloss black base. My thinking is this must create the variation. Possibly some of the darker base coat shows through in some areas as a darker metal color ? 

[opus999]

1 hour ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Well honestly its an unintentional but a happy coincidence. the only thing I can think of too explain it is my technique. When I A/B I was taught by a mentor to always keep the A/B moving. Mostly tiny circles, figure 8’s, and squiggles. When I say tiny I mean a couple of mm’s (2-5 mm) nothing bigger. I also go panel by panel and change direction of the paint. Same technique when going with camouflage colors. Metal panels in life oddly enough have something like a grain that can be seen at certain angles and in certain lighting conditions. I always spray my metal colors over a gloss black base. My thinking is this must create the variation. Possibly some of the darker base coat shows through in some areas as a darker metal color ? 

This makes sense.  are you using Alclad?  I know that definitely changes its look depending upon how thick it's applied.  I've noticed a grain in metal panels that reflect light differently from different angles, which makes painting planes to match that look very difficult, and also explains why using foil works so well.

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

11 minutes ago, opus999 said:

are you using Alclad? 

No the new Tamiya Lacquers.

https://spruebrothers.com/tam82111-tamiya-lacquer-paint-lp-11-silver-10ml-1-3-fl-oz/

 

They're cheaper than standard Tamiya and work even better. I’ve done multiple models in foil and will again. Problem is it takes a week to cover a plane, instead of an hour or two. With the foil I use 2000 grit sanding film when smoothing it on out on a mirror. This give you the grain. Then just alternate the direction you glue them on the build. 

Edited February 26, 2022 by Corsairfoxfouruncle