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Magnifier 1/12 scale Ford GT40


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1/12 scale Ford GT40 as driven by Ken Miles. Out the box build generally with some detailing parts.

This is being built alongside my Tamiya Williams FW14B as a distraction with no pressure upon myself

 

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Started off with a session of de-chroming...there is lots of it in this cheap kit, most of which is incorrect. I used bleach and set up a small production line, bleaching, rinsing and drying...

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They were left with a very glossy finish but some base coat gloss black lacquer should cover that. Build starts with engine block, so that's where I started...

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This will be done in Alclad steel and titanium gold. As you can see, the chrome pieces would have made for a very shiny engine block!!! While waiting for engine to set up, I thought I would follow Paul Bretland's (International Scale Modeler) usual schedule and get some bodywork done. This comprised of trying to figure out what needed to be built/assembled to enable base colours to go down. Some PE was placed and my references aren't great for the Ken Miles car, so I am sure there will be inaccuracies. I note some of the interior and subframes on some are dark blue, called out in instructions as black so I figured I would do what I think fits. This is not my usual build. The tub interior I intend to do in the light blue, subframes in semi gloss black. 

 

So body work was prepped ready for primer, using zero paints light grey primer. 

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I'm not very experienced with the airbrush but was pleased with the end result. This finish was given a gentle rub down with some soft sticks and paint was applied...zero paints Light Blue (Ken Miles)

This seems to have gone on well and I am pleased with that cover. It dries matt but will be 2K'd following decals...

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I have noticed the coverage is a bit faint in some areas so these will be revisited tomorrow as time allows...

 

Edited by Peter Milgate
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Light blue has been revisited and cover more uniform. So time to move on to masking red wing flashes. For these I have purchased masks from Indycal. 

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Red is Tamiya X7 as stated in instruction colour call out. I used Lacquer thinners (Tamiya) and it's covered fine. However, unmasking managed to pull off some base blue to the plastic, this despite being washed, prep sanded and primered before paint!!

Very frustating but easily corrected. 

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Once paint was done, it was left for a couple of days and decals placed. 

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Decals were Indycals, laid down with Ultimate Decal Setting solutions and they went on beautifully. Some fianl paint prep to be completed and then on to 2K. Headlight recesses etc. Hope to get that sprayed in next couple of days, but very happy with bodyshell so far. Clearcoat will be Zeropaints 2 pack Diamonfd finish. 

 

Little bit of work with engine has gone on...original Alclad Titanium Gold was very shiny so I oversprayed that with Tamiya Gold Leaf, which seemed much better. Gearbox in steel and ancilliaries being painted by hand in a variety of metallics. 

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Nervous of Clearcoat so may use my normal avoidant behaviours and do other little jobs first...

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On 22/01/2022 at 13:32, CrazyCrank said:

For sure I’ll go on following your build, having recently bought this kit 😉

Very good start indeed 👍

Not going to be my normal standard but for enjoyment, it's a cheap enough kit to test 2 pack on before I shoot the Williams...Should be nice enough in the end. I plan to detail engine a bit with distributer, HT leads etc and do some work on the interior. I have purchased a spare wheel but that has yet to arrive from Grand Prix models...

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I hate to tell you this - but the spare wheel doesnt fit unless you perform major surgery on the back of it - otherwise it stands proud by about 5-6mm.

An easy way to do the seat eyelets is to cover the centre with bare metal foil, paint black and the rub the paint off the eyelets (I used my finger!). The alternative is o hand paint them all, or buy the aftermarket kit that has each one individually photetched.

Here's some pictures...

 

IMG_2249

 

IMG_2247

 

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On 27/01/2022 at 01:04, Jo NZ said:

I hate to tell you this - but the spare wheel doesnt fit unless you perform major surgery on the back of it - otherwise it stands proud by about 5-6mm.

An easy way to do the seat eyelets is to cover the centre with bare metal foil, paint black and the rub the paint off the eyelets (I used my finger!). The alternative is o hand paint them all, or buy the aftermarket kit that has each one individually photetched.

Here's some pictures...

 

IMG_2249

 

IMG_2247

 

IMG_2270

 

Oh damn...wheel looks awful, how can they be that far out???

Seats look lush, will look at them soon...

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On 1/31/2022 at 11:38 AM, Peter Milgate said:

Oh damn...wheel looks awful, how can they be that far out???

Not sure it's the wheel that's out Peter, more the way Trumpeter designed and moulded the chassis.

 

Dave

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