LightningBoy Posted January 17, 2022 Author Share Posted January 17, 2022 Rain dispersal in front of windscreen Hole at base of fin LightningBoy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hook Posted January 18, 2022 Share Posted January 18, 2022 Nice pics. For those who are looking for more great detail shots, I can highly recommend the DACO book. Cheers, Andre Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightningBoy Posted January 18, 2022 Author Share Posted January 18, 2022 Thanks Hook, Great recommendation of the book. If any of you want detailed shots of anything Lightning please ask me and I can access my large library of photos, for example: There are some detail photos on my build of RSAF F53 and more to follow. LightningBoy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingTiger435 Posted January 18, 2022 Share Posted January 18, 2022 (edited) 8 minutes ago, LightningBoy said: Thanks Hook, Great recommendation of the book. If any of you want detailed shots of anything Lightning please ask me and I can access my large library of photos, for example: There are some detail photos on my build of RSAF F53 and more to follow. LightningBoy These will prove very helpful next time I build a lightning! I am building another one currently Looking forward to seeing more progress on yours! Edited January 18, 2022 by KingTiger435 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightningBoy Posted January 18, 2022 Author Share Posted January 18, 2022 On one of my other posts I gave someone a list of lessons learnt - a good modeller learns from other people's mistakes. LightningBoy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightningBoy Posted January 19, 2022 Author Share Posted January 19, 2022 (edited) KingTiger435, List of lessons learnt was earlier on in this post, not another post. Lessons learnt include: Nose ring and Figure 8 fairing around jet pipes now silver foil tape instead of painted silver on first 3 Gun panels and airbrakes now found how to make them fit better, still a difficult job (see RSAF Lightning build for tips) Positioning all the small decals on the fuselage is made easier by leaving off the undercarriage and tailplanes to the end of the build Fixing the cable ducts on the side of the fuselage is easier done when they are still in 2 halves in that you can push down on a flat surface LightningBoy Edited January 19, 2022 by LightningBoy Found list of lessons learnt 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightningBoy Posted January 19, 2022 Author Share Posted January 19, 2022 Progress on 53 670, Masking complete prior to painting, not much needed when brush painting😀 First coat of Humbrol 83 Matt Ochre camo on - it was quite thick straight from the tin so I diluted with small amount of white spirit. Pattern will need a bit of adjustment when I apply the Humbrol 29 Matt Dar Earth Red Top Tips Clamps readily available free from each end of trouser hangers What I use for drilling holes, it is the bit from a normal hand drill and has sufficient weight for it to apply enough pressure to ease the drill through plastic LightningBoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightningBoy Posted January 20, 2022 Author Share Posted January 20, 2022 Further progress on 53-670. Humbrol 29 Matt Dark Earth now applied - next step will be a second coat on the Humbrol 83 Matt Ochre. I have seen many articles on using pre-shading before applying the top colours, IMHO I have never seen a finish where this has made the model look more like the 'real thing'. The following photo of a, guess what, Lightning illustrates my point - how visible are the edges of the panels? What are your views on pre-shading? Red Top Tip Emery boards used for filing jobs - keep using them and the coarseness of the new ones will gradually get finer over time Different scalpel blades for different jobs LightningBoy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMP2 Posted January 26, 2022 Share Posted January 26, 2022 Nice to see a Saudi Lightning coming together, liking the tips too. I have only built a few of these but in regard to the airbrakes and the cannon fairings - I stuck blutac behind them and pushed/squeezed until they looked nice then hit them with Tamiya Extra Thin. I will be taking more notes on your tips and following this as I have another three to build which are all for myself this time around. Keep up the good work! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightningBoy Posted January 26, 2022 Author Share Posted January 26, 2022 Thanks for the tips RMP2. Glad you like my Red Top Tips too. I have just finished the painting with 2 coats of all colours as shown below. Note that the undercarriage and tailplanes aren't fitted yet in order to make applying all those very small decals on the fuselage a lot easier. Next step is to give an overall coat of Humbrol 135 Satin Varnish to give the decals a smoother surface to adhere to. LightningBoy 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightningBoy Posted January 27, 2022 Author Share Posted January 27, 2022 (edited) Work in progress while the paint dries Painting the glazing - not the least stressful job Various sub assemblies (tailplanes not shown) only to be fitted after the decals and final coats of satin varnish Red Top Tips To avoid some hidden traps when making Lightnings: Lightning F1s had no cable ducts along the bottom of the fuselage Lightning F3s had no guns so blank 'gun panels' in all 4 positions Lightning F1, 1A & 2 only carried Firestreaks - no Red Top missiles Lightning F2A only had a ferry tank under the fuselage - did not have a belly tank with guns LightningBoy Edited January 27, 2022 by LightningBoy typo 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark.au Posted January 28, 2022 Share Posted January 28, 2022 (edited) On 1/21/2022 at 5:40 AM, LightningBoy said: The following photo of a, guess what, Lightning illustrates my point - how visible are the edges of the panels? What are your views on pre-shading? I’ll bite Do you mean pre shading or a panel line wash? if pre shading, I rather think your photo disproves your point more than illustrates it. I see plenty of tonal variation in the natural metal finish. I can find very many pics of painted aircraft exhibiting equal or greater variation in hue. It appears you don’t (aren’t) using an airbrush? Pre shading is primarily an airbrush technique that when used well absolutely creates effective replication of the real thing. Have a look at some of the excellent work on the board to find examples. If you’re referring to panel line wash I agree more, but not completely. Some panels do attract grime which emphasises their edges. Looking again at your example pic I see plenty of panels. It’s all a matter of personal preference and studying the subject - there are no absolutes. Your Lightning is looking good so far, I’m looking forward to seeing how it progresses. Edited January 28, 2022 by mark.au 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightningBoy Posted January 28, 2022 Author Share Posted January 28, 2022 Hello Mark, I might have got the terminology wrong. What I'm referring to is being able to plainly see all the panel lines from a distance. Those panels that are regularly opened will be more obvious, those that rarely if ever come off are sometimes difficult to see and are often painted over. Regarding different colour panels I agree and have reproduced this on some of my NMF finished Lightnings by using 4 'different' silvers or the same silver with dabs of matt black added to gradually darken it. Hope this clarifies what I meant? Done subtly, I have seen some excellent results. LightningBoy 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightningBoy Posted February 2, 2022 Author Share Posted February 2, 2022 Progress on 53-670. Camouflage now finished along with the Duck Egg Blue underside. First coat of satin varnish was applied to make the paint finish less matt, decals applied, second coat of satin varnish added. I'm a bit disappointed how the backing film shows on some of the decals. Question for the knowledgable - can you coat a matt finish with Future / klear, apply the decals and then give an overcoat of enamel satin varnish without the varnish dissolving / mixing with the future / klear????? LightningBoy 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightningBoy Posted February 3, 2022 Author Share Posted February 3, 2022 Further progress on 53-670. Make sure you're in a calm mood as the next part of the build is applying silver foil tape to the nose ring and jet pipe shroud!! Tape used Handle of paint brush used to smooth down the tape once applied Nose ring before Nose ring middle stage before carefully trimming with a scalpel (tape tears easily). Line up edge of tape with edge of nose ring. After - leave room for pitot head fitting later. Jetpipe shroud before After Red Top Tips Start with the nose ring as it's easier, then go onto the jetpipe shrouds If you don't like what you have achieved, redo it as there is enough tape on the roll to do a lifetime of Lightning models When doing the jetpipe shrouds, do the thin narrow piece first and then the triangular bits, there are lots of compond curves to negotiate LightningBoy 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bell209 Posted February 4, 2022 Share Posted February 4, 2022 On 1/21/2022 at 5:40 AM, LightningBoy said: how visible are the edges of the panels? What are your views on pre-shading? Agree with you 100%. Doors, often-opened access panels, sure but most panels blend in. Having said that, having slightly different sheens on neighbouring panels does look realistic at times, particularly on bare-metal finishes. As a maintainer, we spend a lot of time getting panels to fit without gaps or overhangs, so heavy panel lines are not realistic IMHO. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightningBoy Posted February 4, 2022 Author Share Posted February 4, 2022 (edited) Bell209, as an ex-maintainer who taught riggers how to file aluminium to+/- 5mm I totally agree. Also agree with differently shaded panels, I sometimes do it if I have a steady hand and sometimes I don't. Thanks for the feedback. LightningBoy Should be 0.5mm lol LightningBoy Edited February 19, 2022 by LightningBoy Decimal place missing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightningBoy Posted February 6, 2022 Author Share Posted February 6, 2022 There are a few areas of the Airfix 1: 48 Lightning kits instructions that are a bit vague if you are building one for the first time. the following photographs may help explain where pieces go ofrare missing from the kit: Panel on the spine with 2 aerials which is outlined on the mouldings bit has no aerials Port side part 144 - note the angle downwards - easier to put on at the end before the u/c is fitted Stbd side part 143 - note the angle downwards - easier to put on at the end before the u/c is fitted Where the u/c main leg meets parts 79 or 85 Where the main leg meets the diagonal strut (I do enjoy using technical terms lol) Where the diagonal strut meets parts 79 or 85 Where part 73 fits on the nose u/c leg The angle of the small u/c door and the biggest u/c door Hope you find these detail shots useful. I have lots more photos showing details of Lightnings if you're struggling... LightningBoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightningBoy Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 Been doing some of the detail work on 53-670 today, fitting the two small aerials on the spine (see above), fixing the small light to the spine (see above) and fitting the two navigation lights to the wings, How to remember which colour for which wing. - "Have you got any red port left" Note black surrounds to the light. I'm considering doing a RSAF Mk52 soon - does anyone have a spare set of RSAF 1: 48 lightning decals they are unlikely to use??? I have many spare sets of RAF Lightning markings to do a swap!! LightningBoy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightningBoy Posted February 11, 2022 Author Share Posted February 11, 2022 Progress on 53-670:- The 2 small aerials have been added to the small panel on the spine. The aerials are made from brass rod and the panel is painted a light creamy colour. having drilled the very small holes in the panel to accommodate the aerials it can be quite entertaining trying to secure the aerials into position without them disappearing inside the fuselage. When fixed in place they are painted yellow. The outer jet pipes were weathered, the colour I use is silver with a dash of dark earth. This is a personal preference as the photos I have show major variations from mostly black to mostly silver. I'm now progressing with the very small decals and adding small dabs of matt black to the various vents and exhausts. The tailplanes and u/c are still not fitted to leave access to the whole fuselage sides. Now to update the T5 XM995... LightningBoy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMP2 Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 Panel lines... pin washes.... pre/post shading.... They all have their place. Uniform pin washes or shading all over do not do it for me as a rule. I did find that adding an airbrush to my hairy brush usage meant that an awful lot more could be accomplished, but the masking is something of a testicular pain. Good examples of where and what is required can be found on things like Greek aircraft or grey Italian F-104s for extreme examples. Re the twin pointy dorsal aerials - in the past I have used chopped down pins or needles (pointy end up), heated them up in pliers n bunged em in then removed. Cleaned up the plastic afterwards then when the rest of the model is complete popped them back in carefully after all painting has been done. Found a vague pic of my last one, but you get the idea - 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark.au Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 34 minutes ago, RMP2 said: Re the twin pointy dorsal aerials - in the past I have used chopped down pins or needles (pointy end up), heated them up in pliers n bunged em in then removed. Cleaned up the plastic afterwards then when the rest of the model is complete popped them back in carefully after all painting has been done. Found a vague pic of my last one, but you get the idea - This is a good method, I'll file that away for when needed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcchow66 Posted February 15, 2022 Share Posted February 15, 2022 Thanks for showing your build and some really great tips on detailing and pictures in this thread ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightningBoy Posted February 15, 2022 Author Share Posted February 15, 2022 Taillanes are now on supported by Humbrol tinlets shimmed up with coffee stirrers until they fully dry. Red Top Tip Coffee stirrers are also useful for paint stirring LightningBoy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LightningBoy Posted March 1, 2022 Author Share Posted March 1, 2022 Completion 😀 A satisfying build of a rarely seen Lightning. LightningBoy 5 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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