Revell 1/144 Snowberry

[jam]

Yes another one

My voyage into the unknown has started .... only ever modeled a ship once before many, many, many moons ago

and have never used an airbrush or PE before so all new and a tad intimidating to be honest !

Quite how you guys manage with PE on the 350 or 700 scales is, at the moment, completely beyond me but I may

get the hang of it at some point I guess.

 

The basics of putting it together has been easy enough apart from the "transom" I believe it's called ? Gaps all 'round

and poor fit - still nothing the filler can't fix eh ? 

 

I've got some colours lined up - Cheers to sovereign Hobbies there .... although I'm guessing a bit about deck colour

names/codes for now 😉

 

Right next stop - Halfords for some grey primer .....

 

Scruffy preliminary stage and late at night.

 

 

[Faraway]

A wise choice to start your maritime voyage.

I shall watch with interest.

It really does build up into a nice model and there is a LOT of info out there for 'flowers'.

What colour are you going to paint it and what PE are you using  ?

Jon

 

[jam]

27 minutes ago, Faraway said:

A wise choice to start your maritime voyage.

I shall watch with interest.

It really does build up into a nice model and there is a LOT of info out there for 'flowers'.

What colour are you going to paint it and what PE are you using  ?

Jon

 

I was going to follow close-ish the box art just with the correct colours

As i understand it ... HMCS were red hull and RN were black ?

 

Any one point me in the direction of the actual deck colour though - lokks like a

very dark grey in some images and much paler in others ?

 

As to the PE - it's Eduards and my god some of it is "tiny" !! Pin nose tweezers are

not always your best friend.

 

john

[Faraway]

Here is mine from last year, you might find answers to your questions, as far as I remember the colour below the waterline is black.

Dark grey, I cannot remember the shade for the steel parts of the deck, I used Tamiya XF78 for the wood deck and gave it a rub with Burnt Sienna or Burnt Umber oils to pick out the grooves between the planks. I think the bridge floor is smooth ? so I put light cuts in it with a scalpel. 

The walk ways I painted green, yet again sorry I can't remember the shade.

Have you got a good PE bender ? They make PE much easier.

Jon

 

[jam]

perfect - Thank you

[robgizlu]

Hi John - looking forwards to this  There are an AWFUL lot of schemes besides Snowberry

FWIW there are photos of wartime Canadian Corvettes that almost certainly show underfouling in Black, so a strict rule is probably not correct (there are No strict rules with corvettes!)

If you dont have it - this is well worth the price and really speaking is the only Corvett reference book you need if you are just starting.  The print price right now is just plain daft !!!

 

https://www.pen-and-sword.co.uk/ShipCraft-Special-Flower-Class-Corvettes-Kindle/p/7563

 

Here's a link to my build once again - FWIW......if I were doing Crocus now I would do her in different colours, it was my first proper ship build:

 

Jon has specificlly answered the question re deck colours though I'll add a little.  There are Wood deck pieces that are available on EBay that are very nice (Hunter).  It's worth checking out Sovereign Hobbies website - set aside an hour to read Jamies info re Royal Navy ship colours.  IMHO his revisionist colours are as accurate as we are ever going to get 80 odd years after.  The steel decks equate to his RN non Slip paint.  The "walkways" were covered in a slap-on aste called Semtex or Cemtex.  We still don't know for certain what colours these were as there seem to be several.  A "tarmac" colour equating to Sovereign's Dark Admiralty Grey will be my future choice though you'll see I chose to do Crocus in Dark green.  Blue might have been another colour or a duck egg green.  No one is really certain.

And BTW Sovereign colourcoats paints are just wonderful - can't say enough about them - if you get some make sure you get Jamie's thinners which speed up the drying time.  That would be my single best tip.  Check out the colours on my builds or Jon or Beefys.

 

Jon is right if you are just starting out - make life easy for yourself with PE  - take the hit and get one of these and these

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193867058225?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=193867058225&targetid=1279076611409&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=1006554&poi=&campaignid=14727339348&mkgroupid=127909237815&rlsatarget=pla-1279076611409&abcId=9300672&merchantid=119158396&gclid=CjwKCAiA55mPBhBOEiwANmzoQi-hqv29P67PvWmyQBLlXRUa2g4jDRK8g4pErhMJCg5A5kBIfM3qbRoCURMQAvD_BwE

 

https://www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/product/diamond-file-for-photo-etched-parts-tamiya-74066/?gclid=CjwKCAiA55mPBhBOEiwANmzoQj1Wuo1XCqfLqloJ2ZdsvbpuBwKZL6c24zbvw9Bz9j2jD2URR7d04BoCG8kQAvD_BwE

 

They will save no end of heartache.

It will all seem a big outlay but if you continue modelling they will be essential.  And if you oaren't cycling any longer (shame!!!) think of the money you'll be saving on Cycle trinkets

 

In terms off Etch accessories - Starling do a very nice small reasonably priced PE set.  As to detail accessories - replacing the boats and guns will be a huge step up in detail.  if you aren't aware of Micromaster - then I warn you - this is a Fincancial health warning.  Visiting Simon's site may well damage your wallet and cause marital friction!!!   

 

https://micromaster.co.nz/

 

The detail on his weapons and boats needs to be seen to be believed.  L'arsenal also do resin accessories that are kinder to the wallet but not so detailed

 

http://www.larsenal.com/?PGFLngID=1

HTH - Come back to me if you need any specific advice.  Rather sadly I think I have as many of the book references about Corvettes that it's possble to have 

 

I'm planning HMS Jonquil and HMCS Eyebright in 1/350 soon

Welcome back to ship modelling and to Britmodeller

Best 

Rob

[robgizlu]

Oh - I forgot - even though this book uses 1/700 and 1/350 scales to demonstrate points - They are are equally applicable to 1/144 or higher

IMHO the only real Modelling primer you need - hugely useful and lots on using PE!

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Modelling-Naval-Ships-Small-Scales/dp/1785008501/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3D1X6SO4V3LLI&keywords=Ship+modelling&qid=1642501609&s=books&sprefix=ship+modelling%2Cstripbooks%2C53&sr=1-1

 

HTH

Rob

[Faraway]

@jam I forgot to mention @Bobs_Buckles https://www.bobsbuckles.co.uk/

absolutely invaluable when it comes to fixing rigging to any flat surface.

Jon

[jam]

Cheers guys .... Much food for thought

As to the Bob's Buckles ... Was looking at them at length but got kinda stumped on sizes .... I'll come back to that.

 

Sort of getting the eye in on PE bending and glueing so I might have some progress images shortly ... !

[Faraway]

29 minutes ago, jam said:

Cheers guys .... Much food for thought

As to the Bob's Buckles ... Was looking at them at length but got kinda stumped on sizes .... I'll come back to that.

 

Sort of getting the eye in on PE bending and glueing so I might have some progress images shortly ... !

I'm glad you are getting on with the PE, it really does make a huge difference.

 

Bob's Buckles, does this picture help ?

They are, how can I put this ? Quite small 

 

A 0.3/0.4 hole is all you need and a touch of CA glue on the shank. It's even better to fit them when you can get to the other side and you can bend the shank and glue it, a much more secure attachment. The real challenge is threading the line through them, lots of light and lots of magnification, oh and when you fit them make sure you can actually get at the eye.

Looking forward to pictures of your progress. 

Jon

 

[jam]

Yikes

[Niall]

This kit has a couple of odd errors.

 

The wheelhouse bulkhead(part D75) is a mirror image of what it should be. This can be fixed by filling the hole in the deck and cutting the lugg off the bulkhead and fitting it upside down. The bulkhead(part E76) behind this part is also on the wrong side of the hull so needs to be fitted in the slot in the transverse bulkhead.

 

The 20mm Oerlikons(I263) on the bridge are also mirror images of what they are supposed to be. The body of the gun is not a problem, but the magazine is a complete mirror image, the only way I can see to fix this is an after market or 3D printed replacement gun. I have done a 3D print replacement of the gun, a couple of ammo boxes and a replacement bandstand on my Shapeways shop -

https://www.shapeways.com/product/RJUAWBXAG/144-oerlikon-bandstand-pair-with-guns?optionId=244899896&li=shops

 

[jam]

Well some progress is made !

Starting to get a "feel" for how PE works .....

 

 

 

 

 

Time to start thinking about primer and colours :)

[Faraway]

Hopefully by the end of this build, you’ll be bending and sticking PE, without another thought.
So far, so good.

Jon