Kitkent Posted January 21, 2022 Share Posted January 21, 2022 I’ve experienced exactly this more than once! Luckily you can use those spare decal bits for repairs,fiddly I know,but you have the colour match there. The hairdryer bit works too and Daco decal solution. All the best,Chris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galaxyg Posted January 24, 2022 Author Share Posted January 24, 2022 Now I have the clearcoat down on the body & decals, I can handle it confidently. The manky looking mess where the dashboard meets the bonnet is mainly a collection of residue from tape and polish, and will be both cleaned and hidden under the windscreen later. Rear wing. I'm glad I used paint and not decals. Photos of some versions of the real car suggest there are Castrol decals on both sides of the thinner wing, though none are included in the kit. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galaxyg Posted January 30, 2022 Author Share Posted January 30, 2022 Attention turns to the wheels and brakes. In order to put plenty of mileage on the tyres and removal of the seam, I clamp them between two washers - which has the added advantage of bulging the tyre meaning the most exposed area *is* the seam. All this is then inserted into drill and spun over some sandpaper. I may have shown this technique before on this forum, it's not the first time I've used it. I first saw it somewhere else on line and have used ever since. Freshly "used" tyre I've bought some wheelnuts online as the moulded in ones have no centre, just a feint hexagon. Several steps later - amazing the entire set of Dunlop Denloc decals has gone down without a hitch, despite their age. To help keep them there, I've overcoated them with Testor's Dullcote - which also neutralises the shininess of their carrier film. They are the reverse-and-wet type, jst like Tamiyas. The in-box brake discs that Hasegawa provide have no calipers. Not sure how this omission would happen. But they're the same moulding as you get in Hasegawa's 767B and the 962 as well. Since it's impossible to see "around" the caliper once the wheels are on, a superficial thin caliper will do the job. The holes in the discs need drilling out as they're not big enough to go over the stub axles. This seems rather a weak piece of kit engineering. Meanwhile, the exhaust and rear wing post. The piece behind the cab has some white (now masked) in it. Despite the instructions saying it's all grey and black, even a cursory glance at a photo of the real thing shows otherwise. The louvre lines on the front wings and across the rear are not open, so I've coloured them black with a fineliner. The headlights are also in at this point and the wing mirrors are attached too. A rough assembly, the first real view of what it'll look like. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vesa Jussila Posted January 30, 2022 Share Posted January 30, 2022 Looks good so far. Your trick with tyres is good, I use same method as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
klubman01 Posted January 30, 2022 Share Posted January 30, 2022 Excellent progress. Really looking good at this stage. The tyres look suitably "used" - great technique. Trevor 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted January 30, 2022 Share Posted January 30, 2022 Coming along really nicely. Great tip on the tyres! Keith 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiny Posted January 30, 2022 Share Posted January 30, 2022 That's coming together really well. Good thinking on the tyres too - I've done the same with tyres but only where the rim is the 'male' part of the wheel assembly. But it never occurred to me to use washers to hold the tyre in place before sanding - will have to try that next time as I don't enjoy manually sanding tyres. Keep up the good work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galaxyg Posted January 31, 2022 Author Share Posted January 31, 2022 (edited) Thanks for all the comments/encouragment. It's nearly done... There are wires going from this box into the dash. 6 holes means I can wire the entire lot like sewing, with one piece of wire only. I've seen lots of pics of this box and they all vary. So I've picked the one most interesting visually, which had an aluminium plate on top which was also slightly bigger than the box below it. Most of the rest of the parts. I've gone with painted seatbelts as they're so hard to see inside an endurance car, I didn't want to waste any of my spare P/E. A rolling chassis. Two other (of the many) minor niggles with this kit. 1) The supplied poly bushes are too small to stay inside the wheel hubs, so the wheels will very easily fall off. However by this time in my hobby, I have tons of spares. The second niggle is that the body does fit over the chassis, but there's zero fittings to keep it there. You cannot pick up the whole car just by holding the body, it'll slip right off. Like most every other kit, the windscreen wiper needs encouragement to even try to conform to the curve of the screen. ] There are only a few details left. The aerial, the decal on the windscreen and this, the electrical shut-off lever. Which I've made from a piece of wire looped and coloured red with a magic marker. This wire is great - cheap, thin and plentiful. It can be found in the flower arranging section of Hobbycraft. And that's it for this WIP, I hope you enjoyed it. Thanks for all the comments/likes - it does encourage to post more in the WIP. Look out for some RFI images soon and I'll start thinking about what to pull out of the 61 strong stash next. I have a shortlist in mind Edited January 31, 2022 by galaxyg additional text at end. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dBaraSbk Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 Looks excellent, very good work... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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