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Copying decals


Benbow

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How straightforward is it to copy decals? I have one kit with the decals I want but another kit that is better in accuracy and would like to build that and use the decals from the other kit. I would however like to keep the original decals with the other kit and sell it on as a “complete” package. Is it just a case of scanning and removing the “blue” background with software and print on clear decal paper. Would the “copy” be comparable in quality to the originals?

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18 hours ago, Benbow said:

How straightforward is it to copy decals? I have one kit with the decals I want but another kit that is better in accuracy and would like to build that and use the decals from the other kit. I would however like to keep the original decals with the other kit and sell it on as a “complete” package. Is it just a case of scanning and removing the “blue” background with software and print on clear decal paper. Would the “copy” be comparable in quality to the originals?

The answer to this depends on whether this is a one off or whether you want to learn how to make your own decals, and the quality you want for the time and funds expended.

 

If this is a one off, you'd be best putting a wanted add up for the specific decal sheet you want, freeby, postage paid or bought - you might still be able to get a spare decal sheet from the manufacturer for a nominal fee. Next best would be to purchase an aftermarket decal sheet. Any of these would be quicker, cheaper and less hassle than trying to copy the sheet you have and get acceptable results.

 

If you're wanting to learn how to make your own decals, copying a basic kit decal sheet might be a good place to start (for your own personal use - copyright etc), but you'll need  a computer, software, scanner, printer, and clear and/or white decal paper. The latter alone is probably going to cost you what you're likely to pay for replacement decals.

You've then got to decide whether you're going for raster (eg photoshop) or vector (eg coreldraw) graphics - the former is easier to pick up, but the latter ultimately gives better results and is scalable without quality loss.

Then you've got your printing - inkjet is readily available but requires special decal paper and extra post printing treatment, then there is laser which can use standard decal paper; but both require a white background on the model, or to be printed on white decal paper for the image to be seen as the ink is translucent. Then you get into specialist wax ribbon printers such as Alps which can print white and metallics, but cost a lot both to purchase and for consumables.

Then you've got the time needed to learn and master the techniques required - simply scanning the decal sheet and removing the blue background will take time and effort to do without loosing quality of the decal images, then you've got to test print to ensure you've not lost scaling and to get the correct colour balance of the printed image before you commit to printing on your decal sheet.

 

By now you should have an idea why I've suggested the answer for a one off is to get yourself a set of replacement decals, either kit or aftermarket. 

 

If on the other hand you're interested in designing and creating your own decals and are keen to learn, the learning curve is steep but the rewards in producing unique models can be very satisfying.

There's quite a few threads on here where people have shown there workings creating their own decals, and there's several decal designers on here as well who do bespoke work

 

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Printing decals is quite a good skill to have, basic ones are fairly easy. I print V Bomber decals all the time, I can do serials for most schemes and pretty much all the main marking for anti flash white ones. Most printers cannot print white and this is fine over white paint but go onto anything else and your decals are suddenly very transparent and if youneed white you'll have to print on white decal film and cut them out very carefully

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I've been printing my own decals for over 10 years and really the cost of the whole operation, if you include the time spent on the PC, is way higher than a good aftermarket sheet while the results are rarely as good. There is of course the huge satisfaction of having a model in exactly the markings I'd like !

If your goal is only to get a second set of decals for this kit, better find someone who can sell them to you. Some manufacturers do this for their current kits, may be worth asking

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  • 1 year later...

Hi

 

If, for example, I had a kit that had been out of production for about thirty years, and the decals with it were cracked and unusable, would it be easy enough to scan them (dpi?), manipulate the image to get the cracks out, then print them (laser?) onto (white?) decal paper?

 

Cheers

Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/9/2022 at 5:46 PM, Benbow said:

How straightforward is it to copy decals? I have one kit with the decals I want but another kit that is better in accuracy and would like to build that and use the decals from the other kit. I would however like to keep the original decals with the other kit and sell it on as a “complete” package. Is it just a case of scanning and removing the “blue” background with software and print on clear decal paper. Would the “copy” be comparable in quality to the originals?

 

I've never seen what you describe to work. The 'normal' route is to (re-) draw the decals in vector graphics software. I've made a webpage about that, with five examples:

 

https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/customdecals.htm

 

There's also the bitmap graphics route, but I don't recommend that. However fellow modeller Meindert de Vreeze achieves good results with it:

 

http://aircraftinplastic.com/models/decals/decals-page.html

 

My recommendation: learn vector graphics software and outsource the printing of your decal designs. I use SpotModel for that.

 

Rob

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