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Hasegawa F/A-18A Adversary COMPLETED 03/04/2022


Evil_Toast_RSA
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Time for another update. 

 

First off, I take my previous statement back. Summer has arrived in all its sweaty glory here. Thursday midnight was a refreshing 26°C with 87% humidity for example, so it's slow going, but slowly plodding on. 

 

20220130_101835

 

White metal undercarriage with plastic attachments done. Reminds me of my lost youth building 40K stuff! Going to attach the main legs now, leaving the nose carriage loose until later. Going to save some annoyance later I think. Time to bust out my 2 part epoxy. 

 

 

20220130_101923

 

Flaps and slats done. Not an enjoyable experience for me. Next one I'm going to show them drooped, probably the easiest option, I hope. 

 

 

EDIT- as can be seen on the right, I had a small glue bottle tipping over oopsie. So, so glad no.kit parts were on the table at the time, so I'm taking it as a good sign :pray:...

Edited by Evil_Toast_RSA
I'm not a smart person...
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  • 2 weeks later...

After a little break to get started on another GB, back to the Hornet. 

 

Got something done that always makes my sphincter clench, seam removal on clear parts. 

 

Before: 

20220209_195558

 

After: 

 

20220210_063206

 

I really, really need to get another grade of Tamiya polishing compound, using the finest one takes ages. 

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Just now, Evil_Toast_RSA said:

After a little break to get started on another GB, back to the Hornet. 

 

Got something done that always makes my sphincter clench, seam removal on clear parts. 

 

Before: 

20220209_195558

 

After: 

 

20220210_063206

 

I really, really need to get another grade of Tamiya polishing compound, using the finest one takes ages. 

Can you please explain how you do this exactly? I use fine sandpaper then micromesh then toothpaste followed by a dip in thinned Gunze Aqueous clear, but it doesn't turn out as good as what you have done. 

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34 minutes ago, arfa1983 said:

Can you please explain how you do this exactly? I use fine sandpaper then micromesh then toothpaste followed by a dip in thinned Gunze Aqueous clear, but it doesn't turn out as good as what you have done. 

 

1) Scrape seam line with hobby knife VERY carefully

2) Rough sand level with 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper

3) Use finer grades to sand, in my case I use a 4-in-1 nail polishing sponge block available at most pharmacies/drug stores/[enter your countries term here], starting with the 2nd coarsest going towards finest. Regular sandpaper can work, probably going towards the 6000-ish grit mark if you have.

4) Use Tamiya's Polishing Compound, in my case the Finishing grade. This is where I want a coarser one to use first. I use a cotton bud or a soft cloth (like one used to clean glasses) and polish the surface in a circular motion. 

5) Once satisfied, I dip in Alclad Aqua Gloss, but Future works too if you have it available in your country. 

6) Place dipped clear piece on a paper towel to wick away the excess fluid, and place a container over it to keep the dust out. Leave overnight to dry fully and put to one side, I try leave it as long as possible before doing any masking. By rights I should do this first so it will sit for a few weeks. 

 

From what you described, I'm a bit skeptical about using Gunze Aqueous Clear myself, not terribly sure how the solvent/s will react to clear plastic, but I will freely admit to have never used it for this purpose. 

Edited by Evil_Toast_RSA
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Thanks so much for the description. I think my method is the same but I need some slightly different tools. The Gunze is quite benign to the plastic, so this bit I'm ok with.

 

Thanks for the tips. I will get some polishing compound and nail buff sticks from the pharmacy. 

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And got the dark brown applied. As per the instructions, it's a 50:50 mix of C41 Red Brown and C310 FS 30219 applied rather heavily over a mottled XF-55 Deck Tan. Not going for super faded paint. 

 

Next, going to enlarge the painting diagram at work tomorrow and start masking in preparation for the mid brown (C310 straight). 

 

20220216_220008

 

20220217_214755

 

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Got the top splinter done. 

 

Dark brown mix was supplied above, mid brown was straight C310 FS30219 and the light brown was a 80:20 mix of C318 Radome and C310, as per instructions. I used XF-55 and XF-57 to lay down the marble coat and used C318 to lighten the mixes as required. 

 

20220223_151654

 

Now for the sides and undersurfaces. 

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Spent tonight getting the band of C308 (FS 36375) down on the undersurface, and futzed with the burner cans.

 

Started with a mix of Tamiya LP-19 Gunmetal & LP-18 Dull Red (no ratio, just an eyeball mix). Black panel wash and then a heavy drybrush of Vallejo Metal Color 77.703 Dark Aluminium. Finally a heavily thinned layer of Tamiya X-23 Clear Blue. 

 

20220225_224444

 

Must admit I'm not the best at these, and would love to get some ideas on how to proceed. This has also been a brand new attempt using my gut feels, so eh, looks better than my usual "burnt iron and done" previous attempts. 

 

Right now I'm thinking a thin edge coat of X-19 Smoke and some black oils between the petals to give some delineation to the petals, maybe some X--27 Clear Red towards the bottom overlapping the blue to give a hint of purple in there too. 

 

Ideas are welcome! 

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And the 2 greys underneath are done. 

 

Straight C308 FS 36375 and C311 FS 36662 this time round. Used white and some XF-68 NATO Brown as the mottle color, going to help later when I dirty this bird up. 

 

20220301_203111

 

 

Got the burner cans done using the colours and method mentioned above. Pic is potato quality unfortunately. 

 

20220301_203724

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Decals and panel lines done. 1 more matt coat and then onto oils, next weekend probably. Going to start attaching all the parts and finish up the fiddly bits this week. Hopefully done before month end! My B-25 needs to get going again. 

 

20220313_171951

 

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  • Evil_Toast_RSA changed the title to Hasegawa F/A-18A Adversary COMPLETED 03/04/2022

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