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I'd like to place a marker down for this....

IMG_20220104_235205

I seem to be in the zone for seaplanes and flying boats at the moment and I'm not even sure why...... 😶

I have a Boeing 314 Clipper nearly finished in the KUTA group and I finished a little Airfix Grumman Gosling flying boat in the High Wing group. (boy, that was a challenging kit....) 

My Matchbox DHC-6 Twin Otter didn't have the floats option fitted. That was out of a Revell box but was indeed from the Matchbox tooling with the PK numbers still on the plain grey sprues. 

So my current Mbox choices are limited right now - my only other option is a Canberra PR9 and that's not ringing bells for me. 

This little Norseman though, is appealing, and the real clincher for me was when I noticed that ALL the control surfaces including the flaps are supplied separately. 

 

How rare is THAT ⁉️

 

The decal sheet is perhaps past its sell by date but I'm going to give them a go. Sometimes an old sheet responds to a bit of extra care and attention. 

If they look like they will work, then I'll go with the "Northway" civil scheme that's supplied. If they don't, well I'll have to come up with a Plan B. 

The transparencies look fine with no dimples, the 2 aircrew are a bit poor and military looking, and the wings and tailplanes are perhaps too ribby. 

But it all looks quite appealing in its own Matchbox multi colour way. 

 

Deal me in...., 😎

Edited by rob Lyttle
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The Norseman is a lovely kit and if you're having issues with your decals, I'm sure a quick note on here may prompt someone to come to your aid with a spare set. 

Cheers, welcome aboard and best of luck.. Dave 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I finally got around to doing something with this little float plane. Not a lot but it's a start. 

One thing I don't enjoy, and I'm not good with, is masking windows prior to painting. So if I can think of a workaround to avoid it, I'll take it.... 

The source of the problem is, of course, that the windows have to be fixed in before the fuselage sides are joined, then the seams sorted and then the paint...... You may be familiar with what I'm saying...... 😅

But if I can get the paint on, at least around the window areas and then install the glazing, that feels like a path worth trying. 

I've white primed the sides, then drawn the cheat lines for the yellow sides and masking tape applied above, 

Frame 1

 

IMG_20220118_213454

 

Now the yellow is brushed on.... 

IMG_20220118_224714

Hopefully, when the tapes come off I can gloss the white areas of primer and then fit the glazing, assemble the fuselage halves and do what's necessary on the top and bottom seams.👍

Well, that gives you some idea of how much I dislike masking windows. 

A start is made on the internal bits, and I have civilianised a spare pilot figure that I hope will fit in the left seat. That side window may in fact be left open, not that the cockpit area is anything special to look at. 

IMG_20220118_222930

So that's it so far, I expect the gallery is filling up already 

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I've got 2 little guys in the front seats... 

IMG_20220120_203716

 

IMG_20220120_203810

 

And I think that's about all there is without going overboard with seating and opening doors. 

One of the easiest ways to "demilitarise" the kit figures is to fit a big peak and change the helmet thing into a baseball cap. That's one of the Matchbox crew in the red shirt, head turned and cap on. He still has a sunny glow about him due to the yellow plastic but it sure brightens the red paint on his shirt. 

I'll fit the windows, join the sides and we'll be away with this 👍

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On the other hand........ 🤔💡... 

Before joining, I marked and drilled for the rigging wires on the tailplanes with holes in the fin, fuselage underneath and the tailplanes themselves. As noted before, all of the fabric covered surfaces are too pronounced with the ribbing I think. I also found the excellent build WIP of PK125 by none other than the inestimable and much missed Maestro Moa, just prior to his regrettable departure from BM. 

"Thorough" doesn't really do justice to the level of research and fidelity involved in his work. But his opinion on the ribs is the same, so I'm honing them down too, starting with the fixed tailplanes. 

So, having honed and drilled, I'm looking at the parts and thinking that the rigging would be easier done before the sides are joined. 

Got to be worth a try.... 

IMG_20220121_222203

They can dry thoroughly and then some stretchy lines fixed and we'll see how they endure the rest of the building process. 

The yellow paint on the fuselage is Mig acrylic which suits me and my brushes but it lacks covering power. The white primer underneath helps to make it shine which is what I want. But applying it over the yellow plastic would produce a quite different colour so what I have to do is white prime the yellow plastic first, to take the yellow topcoat. The order of work has yet to be figured out, but then the whole build is getting a bit topsy-turvy 😜

Having said that, the windows are in, and I'm going to call this a win for me! 

 

IMG_20220120_225512

You can see there how the pencil lines around the doors and hatches show through the yellow paint, so you can imagine how a strong yellow plastic base would affect the appearance. 

Well, let's see how things pan out 

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Rob, just getting back to the many great WIP threads on this Group Build and I do say, this Norseman and crew are coming along very nicely. You also have many friends in the 'I hate masking clear parts' category, so don't stress, you're not alone. You know, looking back at some of these photo's you have virtually made your own masks by placing a large section of tape over each window opening. You just need to carefully trace and cut out the matching sections, and you would have made quite adequate paint masks for all those side windows. Its all looking really good. 

Cheers.. Dave 

 

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The fuselage is joined and overall things went OK including the roof window, which may or may not be in the correct place - 

IMG_20220124_144625

I had a bit of a problem with the tailplanes and the rigging. This is a stretchy monofilament type of line and I applied too much tension up to the tailfin on one side which added a bit of unwanted dihedral to the tailplane. This was the first one and I made the error of applying glue to the line as it passes through the tailplane..... Big mistake! 

The rule is don't glue there until the ends are sorted. Any mismatch in tension above and below can be neutralised to keep the tailplanes straight and THEN glue the mid-point 😎

Lesson learnt and the 2nd one went much better. Remedial re-rigging was required as the situation went from bad to worse with me in charge. This required prising the fin sides open to get a new line attached at the top. I think I've sorted it.... 

IMG_20220123_233314

 

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Windscreen is fitted , and I was pleased to find it could be fixed in place while still on the sprue to help keep my messy fingers off. Perfect fit. In fact all of the gates on the parts frames are very neatly done and easy to sort out. This is quite a classy little kit in many respects. 

 

IMG_20220123_233237

 

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This excellent 3view drawing was pasted by @dogsbody@dogsbody on Moa's excellent build and I've put a link for my reference really, to help me sort out the floats. I hope this is OK, Chris, if not please let me know for a deletion 👍

49943615772_45d9a54614_b.jpg

Issues regarding the floats include strut attachment points, spreader bars attachment points and the bars themselves, I think mbox have gone too small with these, and some rigging diagonals. I'm hoping to make some access ladders to replace the stirrup type rungs supplied and drawn here ⬆️

I'm becoming aware of the underwing pylons that pertain to the flaps and ailerons. Having done a few, including the DHC-6, I think it's required to have a go on this, especially if I do some deployment and deflection of the controls. 

Anyway...... Floats...... 😎

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I like finding articles and reading up on the subject of a build, especially by the people who are still flying the real thing. 

Not so many Norseman airframes still in the airworthy condition but there's a tiny band of enthusiasts who love 'em! 

I hope this link will work.... 

https://issuu.com/flyerdigital/docs/flyer_january_2021/s/11376587

A bit of light reading if you're twiddling thumbs...... 😎

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2 hours ago, rob Lyttle said:

I like finding articles and reading up on the subject of a build, especially by the people who are still flying the real thing. 

Not so many Norseman airframes still in the airworthy condition but there's a tiny band of enthusiasts who love 'em! 

I hope this link will work.... 

https://issuu.com/flyerdigital/docs/flyer_january_2021/s/11376587

A bit of light reading if you're twiddling thumbs...... 😎

Beautiful photos, interesting text. Thanks! I understand you: I like know interesting things about my modelling subject too.

Wrong aspect is if you reding so much then you haven't time for modelling. I experience this too often!

Regards,

Michał

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Thanks Nils, for the heads up, I'm sure it's a fascinating trail over a long period of time. I'm seeing a few variations already in photos and drawings, but I'm going to avoid going down that rabbit hole! Might never get out! 

Like Matchbox, I'll be happy with a generic type of airframe that bears some resemblance, and getting to the finishing line 😎

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49 minutes ago, bigbadbadge said:

I like the pencil lines showing through the yellow paint. 

The airbrush guys call it preshading 😅

I found out this about the mig yellow in particular when doing a little Folland Gnat in the Yellowjacks decor. I went a bit heavy with the dark areas and the little plane looks "weathered" beyond reason, like it's kept in a skip! 

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Well, I've had a few laughs with THIS little box of tricks.... 😜

IMG_20220129_213019

I cut a pair of spreader bars from stock 1mm sheet and made new slots in sides of the floats a little bit down from top surfaces. The bars were cut long enough to reach right through the floats with the spacing being decided by the kit parts +a little bit more if needed. Because I'm moving the attachment points for the mountings inboard from the given centerline points, I think I need to space the floats more to get the new mounts out to where the originals were. If you followed THAT lot, you're on the ball more than me! I think it will come clearer in the pictures as progress is made...... 

So then it's the diagonal rigging.... 

I won't trouble you with the failed attempts..... 🙄

FINALLY I got the parts assembled with lengths of the line trapped in the front slots, glue applied and the whole thing jigged and held with the floats parallel, the bars perpendicular, all moving parts not looking skewed and the floats themselves standing upright and the top surfaces in line. 

This final manoeuvre was aided by a steel rule laid over the tops and weighted. 

A bit in this style.... 

IMG_20220129_214705

 

..... but laid flat with a Stanley knife on top. The float keels just at the steps and the two rudders at the back make up a steady 4point base to keep them parallel in the vertical plane. 

I didn't take any pictures of the whole thing in all its grandeur, I went for a lie down instead. 

 

Much to my surprise, when I got back on the case next day and had a look, the assembly had an air of rightness about it. The lines were well attached at the front spreader bar ends and the only outstanding item was the attachment of the other ends at the rear bar.

While applying some tension to the stretchy lines. 

But evenly, so as not to pull a skew or twist into the whole deal. 

In the end I drilled, and drilled right through and out of the outside of the floats. Wire was fed through, then single strand electric wire was soldered, and then this was thin and flexible enough to be knotted to the ends of the stretchy line and pulled through. 

Whaddya all think 😎💪💖

Thank you..... Thanks everyone.... You're too kind.... Thank you.... ‼️🤩

So here we are, what we have here is the starboard float, 

IMG_20220129_213053

.... with a little tension applied to both lines and the thin wire wrapped around the float temporarily to hold the stretch while I check for twisting, skewing or any other departure from the straight and true. Glue will be applied shortly. 

Also visible there is a new mounting point for the attachment leg assembly, and indeed the old one on the centreline which has been filled. 

So there is rigging between floats and fuselage by the looks of it, but I'll be honest with you, I haven't got a plan.... Or a paddle.... 😅😇

 

Anybody else doing one of these??? 

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Dear Rob

I made one a couple of years back, more pictures in the RFI section. Anyway, to get the floats parallel and also to get the plane square and symetrical on the floats I built this low tech jig from Lego and secured the floats with blu tack.

 

Drill the rigging holes before the floats are fully assembled and complete the rigging once the floats are finsh glued to the rest of the plane.

 

spacer.png

 

regards Toby

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