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Honda RC213 V '14 REPSOL Tamiya 1/12


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Hello my friends,

 

The corrections are going on, not yet over:

 

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The corrections had damaged not only assemblies but also some paints...

 

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Cheers, O                      spacer.png

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Hello my friends,

 

I assembled the right handle.

But I noticed a slight difference of inclination between both sides, the left handle being more tilted.

I decided to refer to a blueprint to determine which side was more right:

 

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Source: the Blueprints

 

Watching this blueprint, I feel it is the right side (left side on a frontal view) that should be more tilted, while the left one would be correct.

Let's try to confirm that:

 

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This pic of my bike shows that there is indeed a problem. The close-up below will enhance that:

 

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Conclusions:

- imho, it is confirmed that my right handle should be a bit more tilted. Well, the difference is not huge (sometimes, the best is enemy of the good) and probably not many people would notice it). But you know me…

- the yellowish box - and probably the set of TS parts F13 (resin) and E1 (PE) - is wrongly tilted. If I put the upper cowl, the latter error has no consequence, but if I decide to show the beast free of upper cowl (exposed apart), I have to fix that too...

- the lenght of the left handle seems to me a bit longer than the left one, on my bike. I will try to improve that on the same occasion.

 

Cheers, O 

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Distrust your sources ...

 

I found:

 

https://www.alamy.de/stockfoto-marc-marquez-honda-rc213v-1000-ccm-motorrad-auf-der-carole-nash-mcn-london-motorrad-zeigen-welche-bei-excel-london-vereinigtes-konigreich-das-fahrrad-half-ihm-sieben-rennen-in-der-saison-2017-zu-gewinnen-das-erscheinen-zieht-rund-36000-besucher-und-verfugt-uber-eine-vielzahl-von-motorrader-roller-superbikes-und-individuelle-one-off-chopper-174916806.html

 

(looks somehow symmetrical)

 

and

https://www.autospinn.com/2017/02/2017-honda-rc213v-bigbang-engine

esp.

 

https://img.icarcdn.com/autospinn/body/Repsol-Honda-RC213V-MotoGP-Dani-Pedrosa-03.jpg

 

(looks slanted, but front wheel is not pointing 100% straight forward)

 

Just follow your usual pattern and make your model better than the original (as straight as possible) - and risk meeting an owner "Olivier, you mad person, my bike is slanted" "Well, it probably isn't OK! Go get it repaired." or one of the racers "Olivier, I know I'm mad. It was symmetrical when the bike was new, but I had my mechanics adjust it for clockwise and counterclockwise circuits one way or the other to make turning easier."

 

B)

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On 6/15/2022 at 3:31 AM, Totally Mad Olivier said:

P.S: gamblor916, I have not taken a decision about the cowls (assembled on the bike or not) but I love the pic you posted above. If you have another one of the same kind, I am very interested...

 

Just search for motorcycle fairing stand. You can always design your own too.

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Hello my friends,

 

I said above that better is enemy of the good. I didn't think I said it so well...

I decided to remove and assemble again better my right handle, despite Jochen funny warning (thanks for the pics!).

But I had quite a lot of troubles, breaking then losing an intermediate part of this handle.

I began to wonder if I should not order another TS set (the TD23175, less expensive and more simple but including though the handlebars).

I had the idea to see if the Tamiya part could be used. Happily, it could...

I had to cut with a fine diamond disc this intermediate element and graft it on my TS handle.

But I had another trouble: the TS part S5, on the left handle, ever assembled, had vanished!

I had to scratchbuild this part, helped by great close-ups:

 

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N.B: the scratchbuilt little part replacing S5 was glued with epoxy cement. 

 

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Cheers, TMO                   spacer.png

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1 hour ago, gamblor916 said:

Just search for motorcycle fairing stand. You can always design your own too.

OK, I will, but I am not sure I will do that. My initial idea was to represent the bike with her nice cowls.

Difficult choice...

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"Was it worth it??"

 

In case you have reached the level "acceptable for a while" for an "+++ I wanted a more simple project, an out of the box build. +++" now, then it was well worth it.

 

(A friend of mine says you're not in this to make money or attract attractive females to "share your pillow" - it must be some other reason)

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11 hours ago, Jochen Barett said:

it must be some other reason

Which reason leads modelers like me (I'm far from being the only one) to be so demanding?

Good question, definitely...

As you can imagine, I don't have the answer myself. Your friend, who seems to know me better than I do, does he have an idea?

Maybe the need to leave a trace, as nothing comes out of our bellies, unlike women.

The latter are, moreover (pity), poorly represented in the modelers community...

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I go My friend goes with this one https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maslow's_hierarchy_of_needs (the simplified version of the pyramid), when food, shelter and clothing is there, you feel the urge to belong to a community and once that is acchieved you strive to distinguish yourself within that community. At the top of the pyramid you try to make the most of your potential, but you wouldn't need to show it to others.

 

Who would try to understand women? Only few of them play chess or repair cars ... maybe they have better things to do.

 

I think the handle bars look "OK" now (Great detail! About as perfect as a model in that scale can get.)

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Thanks Jochen for this interesting comment, bringing with the Maslow pyramid a convincing explanation on what leads us to be so demanding and to share with other modelers, in threads like this one.

As I am not yet at the top of the pyramid, I will go on sharing with you all my build 😉:

 

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N.B: I removed the front fender to ease the wiring job and the screw head modification

 

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Cheers, O                     spacer.png

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Hello my friends,

 

A very little update while I'm struggling with all the cable and hoses provided as well by Tamiya as by Top Studio (and as I am waiting for the 0,3 mm cables brought on Aliexpress...):

 

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Even if the result may be considered as acceptable (no comment, Jochen!), I will try another option, with enamel paint. Maybe a water based paint (Vallejo) was not the best choice, generating retraction during the setting...

If someone has a suggestion to improve my hoses by avoiding this "lack" effect of the paint in the hose, I'm interested...

 

N.B: if we may regret that Tamiya doesn’t show colorized cables in the instruction  sheet to avoid errors in the piping, we may even more regret that TS doesn’t precise the lenght (a precision that Tamiya brings) of the many cables, especially since imho, they don't provide enough 0,3 mm cable:

 

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Tip: If unhappily (this happened to me several times), the cable is detached from the connector after the CA bonding, don't try to glue it again without drilling again first the connector. It is essential that the cable may fit a bit in the connector.

 

Cheers, O                      spacer.png

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To avoid the cracking, you might want to go for diluted ink. Enamel is probably a bit more flexible than acrylic paint, but I think ink would be much better.

I must say, I’m amazed again at the level of reality you are trying to attain, Olivier.

This bike is a complicated piece of machinery (I had no idea they could be so complicated), but your build is showing all this in a fantastic way.

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spacer.png  Your skill is once again on the forefront of modelers every where ---- well ME for sure.spacer.png

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3 hours ago, Pouln said:

you might want to go for diluted ink.

Thanks a lot Poul for this suggestion and for the kind words.

I am not used to work with inks, do you have a precise suggestion (brand?reference?) knowing that the color should be this kind of Yellowish Light Grey?

3 hours ago, Pouln said:

I had no idea they could be so complicated

Neither do I!!!

With the Top Studio Super Detail-Up set, you can represent very faithfully this machinery. And using screen captures, it is possible to bring even a little extra like here, with these « clear » hoses.

 

Edit a bit later: you won’t need to give me any precision about the ink, Poul. I found a way to get a very convincing hose. More soon… 

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I won't keep the suspense any longer. Here is the way I could get this result:

the idea was to use the Tamiya LC Putty, that I personally use with a big syringe with a 0,9 mm nozzle (like the Flex-I-File bottle, the syringe is kept away from light with insulation tape) for a precise application. The 1 mm OD clear hose is cut at the right lenght, about 10 mm, and, instead of paint, I insert the tip of my LCP syringe into the hose:

 

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When the result comes little by little, like here, the satisfaction is even greater...

 

Cheers, O                      spacer.png

P.S: I take advantage of this post to say that the Marco Model jig is imho essential, especially if you intend to use the Top Studio Super Detail-Up set. The build is indeed ever very challenging with the jig, I can't imagine what it would be without...

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Hello my friends,

 

In a previous post (last Saturday), I showed the wiring suggested by Top Studio, and also the A set of 3 connectors. Patiently, I had to lead every cable to its destination, first on the left handle. This set being floating, I attached it temporary with a portion of Micropore to ease the delicate job:

 

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N.B: maybe I should have done the connection of B before the one of A, to ease a bit the challenging piping work...

 

Cheers, O

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On 26/06/2022 at 14:48, Totally Mad Olivier said:

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I won't keep the suspense any longer. Here is the way I could get this result:

the idea was to use the Tamiya LC Putty, that I personally use with a big syringe with a 0,9 mm nozzle (like the Flex-I-File bottle, the syringe is kept away from light with insulation tape) for a precise application. The 1 mm OD clear hose is cut at the right lenght, about 10 mm, and, instead of paint, I insert the tip of my LCP syringe into the hose:

+++

 

Since the evaporating / escaping solvent seems to be the problem of the cracking paint in the tube, my idea would have been to use a clear slow setting 2-component glue (UHU endfest in Germany, Araldite in the UK or somthing similar from the "1,- Euro store" - maybe a SADER-product in France) and dye it in some way (light amber for well maintained racing bikes, dark umber for a model of any of my cars).

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Hello my friends,

 

All the Tamiya cables are now in place (the cables a and c that seemed to me too thick - nearly 1 mm - were replaced by 0,5 mm ones).

As I am waiting for the 0,3 mm cables, in the meantime, I focus on an area not really well represented neither by Tamiya nor by Top Studio:

 

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Cheers, O

 

P.S: the more I think about it, the more I think the best option, regarding the cowls question, would be to build a 2nd bike (the Marc Marquez one this time…) with cowls in place. This 2nd bike would be a bit more simply built - no comment, Jochen!! - and both bikes would be exposed next to each other. Tell me what you think about this idea. Of course, this would mean to leave the Ford mustang apart for a long time...

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3 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

Hello my friends,

+++

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+++

 

 

To me it looks as if the part "This other Tamiya bracket is wrong too" would belong "behind" the part "Top Studio D11 part" (after being corrected).

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5 hours ago, Jochen Barett said:

To me it looks as if the part "This other Tamiya bracket is wrong too" would belong "behind" the part "Top Studio D11 part" (after being corrected).

I'm not sure I understood what you meant, Jochen.

Did you mean that you thought this other bracket is a Top Studio part and not a Tamiya one?

If so, I confirm that it is a Tamiya one. In fact, it is included on the Tamiya C26 right exhaust part.

But, as the abstract below of the TS instructions shows, Top Studio, for this time, did not provide a solution to avoid this "wrong bracket":

 

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I have not taken a decision for now about the bracket itself. At least, I should replace the Tamiya screw (I can't stand all these wrong Philips screw heads).

Now the best would be to cut the bracket (missing on the real bike) and try to represent the wide screw head that we may see on the close-ups of my previous post. I wonder where I could find such particular screw heads at scale, if someone has a suggestion, I am interested!

 

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Cheers, O

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10 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

+++

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+++

 

I need a picture hosting service and a drawing software.

 

What I tried to say is that the pic above looks like

- left-upper is "Hex screw head, tab of black (carbon) part ("Tamiya bracket"), metal part ("Top Studio D11"), nut&washer (hidden)"

- lower right is "Hex screw head, washer/shim, black rubber "bushing" or "sleeve" going through the next part, metal part ("Top Studio D11"), rear end of rubber sleeve, nut&washer (hidden)"

 

in the picture of the model

- lower right: "screw head (Philips), metal tab of the exhaust pipe), metal part ("Top Studio D11"), nut&washer (hidden)"

 

so the order of the metal tab (from the exhaust pipe) and the metal part from the frame ("Top Studio D11") it is affixed to seems reversed.

I have no idea if the model parts can be arranged in the way "I see" it in the pics of the real thing and if what I think to see is right - but I', confident you will make it look excellent!

 

 

What is the diameter of the hex screw heads you need? And what is the thread size? Is it metric or "coarse" (to go into plastic / sheet metal)?

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Ok Jochen, now I understand better, even without picture drawing service or drawing software 😉

I show below exactly the way Top Studio suggests to assemble the D15 parts (washers?) on D11. I agree with you to say that this is wrong: these parts D15 should better take place differently imho and without staking them:

 

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I will try to do the necessary corrections but it will be delicate...

About the wide right lower hex screw head, the latter and the wider part around seem to be in one piece. May we find such a particular head? I don't know, but imho, the hex head itself should be around 1,2 mm and the kind of disc portion around 2,5 mm:

 

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Jochen (or anyone else), if you could find me this particular head in such dimensions somewhere, it would be great (I would prefer a full metal piece). Where appropriate, I would have to scratch build  it...

 

Cheers, O

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I don't have any hex head screws of that "caliber", but I do have some M1,2 1,4 and 1,8 screws - unfortunately most of them with countersunk (round, long slot) head.

One would have to use a file to give them hexagonal heads and add a shim/washer or a nut to get the shape right and make the screw "useful" in holding anything in place. A job for a watchmaker.

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Hello my friends,

 

I wanted my job on this area to be over before showing the different steps I had to follow to get a quite convincing result. It is now done. So:

 

1) Takes into account Jochen input and research of screen captures to get the best perception possible of the elements to represent:

 

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2) Removal of the Tamiya wrong bracket:

 

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3) Scratchbuild of the lower right hex screw head and upper hex screw thread assembly:

 

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N.B: the Black round pad was cut with 2,4 mm Punch and die (RP Toolz) in 0,4 mm thickness plastic card, the metal ones were cut in 0,2 mm thickness tin sheet (2,4 mm diam. pad) and 0,5 mm thickness tin sheet (1,3 mm diam. pad). The 1,07 mm metal hexagonal nut had been ordered (among others) when I was building the Fiat on Knupfer, a great german modelers site (pity no english or french version) suggested then by Hannes, a great modeler.

 

4) New application of carbon (stocking method) on the exhaust protection B10 and assembly of D11 and upper hex screw head:

 

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5) New decal placement and assembly of the exhaust protection after cutting the too long arm at lower right:

 

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Well, I am glad to have improved significantly this area. It is curious that Top Studio, so demanding in general, did not provide such a solution to get something more faithful to the original…
 

Cheers, O

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