Honda RC213 V '14 REPSOL Tamiya 1/12

[gamblor916]

I like the tip using stretched pipette. I haven't seen smaller diameter clear hose otherwise.

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

 

 

Furthermore, I noticed on my docs that applying the same color on the both seat cushions was an error: 

 

 

 

Cheers, O                      

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

Again a very challenging step to get convincing hoses both sides of the front fork:

 

 

 

 

 

This step over, I should probably go on with the handlebars and dashboard...

 

Cheers, O                       

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

As I began to work on the handlebars, I noticed something:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The M5 part is ever replaced. I used a little portion of 1,5 mm tin wire whose end was rounded. It will be more difficult to replace the S8 part. This shows that it is very easy to lose some of the many tiny parts of the TS set. So take care!

 

 

Cheers, O                        

[Jochen Barett]

Tamiya and TS are soooooo careless. Manufacturers' goofs like this brake handle slow down your easy out of the box starter kit's weekend assembly so much.

[Totally Mad Olivier]

8 hours ago, Jochen Barett said:

Tamiya and TS are soooooo careless. Manufacturers' goofs like this brake handle slow down your easy out of the box starter kit's weekend assembly so much.

Everyone will have understood that Jochen is funnily and kindly ironical, as well about Tamiya and Top Studio (definitely 2 very good manufacturers), as well about me (it is true that I first thought this build would be an out of the box one and I shared recklessly this thought last 28/12 in the Mustang thread). 

Jochen, who seems to know me much better than I do myself, had guessed right away I couldn't help but make a mountain of it...

I apologize so again for my very slow build due to my excessive level of demand, that I have to assume.

But precisely, this example of dug brake handles (as other ones) shows that, even using great brands such Tamiya and TS, the demanding modeler must remain critical and check on docs that parts are faithful to the original.

Definitely, I might have missed some other details, but each time, my goal is to get one of the most faithful existing replicas.

 

Cheers, TMO 

[desert falcon]

2 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

I apologize so again for my very slow build due to my excessive level of demand, that I have to assume.

Nothing to apologize, your work and attention to detail is certainly a level above the average model builder Totally Mad (and Slow Building) Olivier    

[Jochen Barett]

3 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

+++ I apologize so again for my very slow build due to my excessive level of demand, that I have to assume. +++

Somebody once said "Never explain, never complain!", I say: "Do not apolgize without a smiley - when the audience is enjoying every line written and every picture shown!"

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

Been very busy these days, but I though could go on and my handlebars are now done:

 

 

N.B: in order to determine precisely how exactly the part to scratchbuild was, I used several other screen captures with varying view angles, that I won't reproduce here not to burden excessively the thread. For the same reasons, I won't detail all the procedure using A.A, Evergreen and other materials to get something quite convincing, unless one of you is asking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edit a day later (last corrections and improvements):

 

Cheers, O                        

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello chaps,

 

If Tamiya represents very very simply the very complex front area under the dashboard (that is, to be true, just slightly visible, hidden by the upper cowl), no compromise at all for Top Studio:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers, O                       

[Prop Duster]

Olivier, So much fine work on an important, highly visible part of the motorcycle.

 

However, after all this fine and extensive work I feel compelled to point out a small point I have noticed. re: the size and number of wire wraps on your model vs the pictured example.. 

 

 

I include this mash up picture to make clearer my point.   Please understand I mention this only to help you keep your high standards in creating this model. Feel free to ignore me.

 

 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Dear Steve,

 

Thanks a lot for your (too) humble and kind comment and for spending time to explain very clearly what you mean thanks to these juxtaposed comparison pics.

But if I agree to say that the 2 portions of my thin metal wire should be tighter, the close-up below (and other ones) confirms that Top Studio is right suggesting to use the very thin wire provided (0,3 mm) and to do 2 turns and finish with a twist (see the handle instructions in the post of last May 26 same page):

 

 

I will try to tight a bit more the portions of wire on my handles but honestly, at naked eye, the narrow gap between them is not visible or really slightly:

 

 

I appreciate your attention to detail that shows you follow impliedly my thread.

 

Cheers, O

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

A new little update below. Thanks for watching!

 

 

 

 

 

Top Studio, as often, pity, doesn't give color indication. For the little PE part E5, I could have an idea  thanks to one of my docs:

 

 

It appears so that this part, in which  3 wires are running, is to paint Dark Grey. I used the Vallejo 994:

 

 

Cheers, O                      

 

[Hamden]

 

More and more superbly fine detail work, I just wish I had your patience and skills.

 

   Stay safe           Roger

[Prop Duster]

Olivier, Once again you have been merciful  to my humble self.

Of Course, the views were enlarged and the "real view" would not show any error at all.

I have removed my eye glasses  and can now see clearly what you point out  is true.  

I shall go sit in the coroner until my name is called or I get really hungry.  

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

A bigger update tonight (but also hassles some of which being still to be settled):

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers, O                      

[Fastcat]

Great work so far but I think the handlebars are in the wrong position if they have been fixed in place. They should be angled slightly downwards and back towards the rider. Of course, if you haven't fixed them yet, it doesn't matter!

 

Dave

[gamblor916]

You should build a stand for the fairings out of brass tubing to show off all that detail.

[Prop Duster]

Good to see your forward progress. The details are most evident  and help show the visual complexity of this state of the art motorcycle.   

[Totally Mad Olivier]

On 12/06/2022 at 00:03, Fastcat said:

I think the handlebars are in the wrong position if they have been fixed in place. They should be angled slightly downwards and back towards the rider

You are absolutely right, Dave, and I will have to bring the deep necessary correction. The problem mentioned above can't be enough to explain such a difference on top view, and most likely, I made a mistake assembling the Tamiya B15 and B16 parts, switching them:

 

 

 

N.B: I'm afraid B15 and B16 were glued on B17 with liquid polystyren cement, what would turn much more difficult the corrections.

 

Cheers, O                      

 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Not sure I understood this suggestion, gamblor916. Did you mean not assemble the cowls on the bike but show them separately?

If so, I admit this idea has crossed my mind. The level of detail thanks to the detail sets and other improvements is so that it's a bit of shame to hide all that with the cowls.

In fact, a diorama would be possible, showing the bench where the beast is being prepared by mechanics. And some cowls could so be exposed out of the bike...

But this would lead me much further, and I look forward to go back to my Mustang build...

[gamblor916]

You can make a simple one using brass or plastic rod.

 

[Prop Duster]

Perhaps a look to your 3D machine about recreating B15 and 16 and surgically removing  the currently mounted  evil twins. 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

8 hours ago, Prop Duster said:

Perhaps a look to your 3D machine about recreating B15 and 16 and surgically removing  the currently mounted  evil twins. 

Thanks Steve for this suggestion.

I was far from my bench yesterday and I will be too today, so I didn’t begin the corrections.

But the 3D printer should not be necessary, since I have the 2nd kit, in particular to replace if necessary B15 and B16.

 

 

Cheers, O

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

I began the corrections: I had first to remove as gently as possible the cap B3 glued with Uhu Max Repair Power, unscrew and remove the long Black screw, remove the whole handlebars and separate the parts B15 and B16 from B17 (happily, I had not put too much Tamiya Liquid cement). I used the 2nd kit parts B15 and B16 and, after applying a coat of TS-83 on the latter, assembled them on B17:

 

 

 

The biggest challenges regarding these corrections are probably yet to come...

 

Cheers, O

 

P.S: gamblor916, I have not taken a decision about the cowls (assembled on the bike or not) but I love the pic you posted above. If you have another one of the same kind, I am very interested...