Honda RC213 V '14 REPSOL Tamiya 1/12

[Prop Duster]

Olivier,  Is it necessary to replace the Scale Motorsport carbon decal with the Tamiya carbon?   That is like asking if a newspaper cartoon is a good as a Claude Monet hanging on the museum  wall.

Once again you have held to your requirements and not let the market place force you to accept any less.

Little did the realize who they were dueling  dealing with in these matters 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

I began the next step with the oxygen sensors.

But before, I decided to place all the metal and numerous resin parts on a dsa sheet, in order to avoid errors and ease the following steps. The sprues were placed approximately as on the TS instructions:

 

 

N.B: the above example of the dial (I will of course do another one from the resin TS part) shows that it is necessary to check carefully all Tamiya parts that are to (advantageously) replace by TS ones, and to precise it in the Tamiya instructions. Indeed, if the latter precise when Tamiya separately detailing  parts can be used (rear damper, front fork), it is of course not the case when they come from another brand...

 

 

Now, let's focus on the oxygen sensors:

 

 

 

As I wanted to have an idea of the wire lenght and of the connectors R13 color, I found this doc:

 

 

I also found this other doc, that shows from below the oxygen sensors where they are attached to the exhaust:

 

 

 

 

Cheers, O      

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

I focus now on the right rear part of the frame:

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers, O

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

A new little update tonight:

 

 

 

As I had to paint carbon the part on the rear portion of the frame, I took advantage to apply it also on other pieces (TS H4, H13 and also the meter). 

I recall indeed, as I said in a previous post, that I had realized lately TS provided a little better one than Tamiya. As I had no more Tamiya dial decal, I used the custom decal I had printed (see above). This custom decal was not bad at all, but however, I had to improve it by applying a Middle Grey. I also improved other aspects such the pink color of the right panel, and the buttons and indicator lights, for which the Vallejo Silver was preferred to the GSW Chrome:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Happy Easter to all    

 

Cheers, O            

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

Following the TS instructions, I began to work on the radiator:

 

 

* MMFA = Microscale Micro Metal Foil Adhesive, a good white glue.

 

 

 

 

Even if you don't use the TS detail set with the PE grille, you must not apply a Silver color on the grille. If so, a coat of Flat Black and then a dry brush with Silver will allow to get a much more convincing radiator grille.

 

 

Now I have to paint and assemble the other (the rear) side of the radiator. One more time, the Tamiya's instructions suggest to paint it TS-30, but it is imho not the best way to represent it nicely and faithfully. Let's take a look at this side on the real bike: 

 

 

Cheers, O                  

 

 

[gamblor916]

You can use photo etch radiator pattern and cut it yourself. Strange that they didn't include front and back pe in that set. I know that Hobby Design and S27 have front and back radiator faces for their RC213V sets.

[Totally Mad Olivier]

On 19/04/2022 at 14:06, gamblor916 said:

I know that Hobby Design and S27 have front and back radiator faces for their RC213V sets.

Thanks gamblor916 for this info. However, I think it won't be necessary to buy another set (I ever bought quite a lot...).

Indeed, by using the dry brush technique, I could get a result that I consider really acceptable for something that will be just slightly visible through the side cowls gaps:

 

 

Cheers, O                 

 

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

The engine is now assembled on the frame, using the screws provided by Tamiya (a good idea to provide also a little magnetic screwdriver):

 

 

The screws are not tightly tightened for now as I will probably have to unscrew them.

 

Furthermore, I said above following as well the Tamiya and Top Studio instructions required a maximum care.

But I also have to take in consideration the Blue Stuff instructions, since I decided to represent the Pedrosa bike. 

Yet when I applied successively the Surface Primer and the Titanium White on the upper cowl, I forgot that, on Dani's bike, the latter has a bit different shape. I have to add resin parts provided in the BS set:

 

 

 

 

N.B: those of you who have kindly followed me in the Mustang thread (I will come-back to this other build as soon as this one will be over, I promise!) know that I had many problems with Surfacer products that damaged the paint by places. It is imho because these fillers were applied on an acrylic paint. 

If so, as I use only Gravity paints and primers for the Honda, I think I won't meet the same problem here.

 

Cheers, O                  

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

 

 

Then comes the rear wheel attaching: Tamiya provides long screws that should come into the rear and front axis holes...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers, O                  

 

 

[Jochen Barett]

Oh boy ...

[gamblor916]

Wow 15mm is a lot. You should check it against the kit chain.

[Urshimato]

Hello Olivier 

It looks to me like the swing arm is not mounted correctly. I say this because I cannot see the top of the shock absorber where it should fit to the main frame. That also looks like the 15mm you need to gain. I hope this helps. 

Wayne

[Totally Mad Olivier]

21 hours ago, gamblor916 said:

You should check it against the kit chain.

Good suggestion, gamblor916:

 

 

19 hours ago, Urshimato said:

It looks to me like the swing arm is not mounted correctly. I say this because I cannot see the top of the shock absorber where it should fit to the main frame

I would have preferred you to be right, Urshimato, but imho, the swing arm is mounted correctly and can't go any further:

 

 

Last check, that I should probably have done before, instead of trusting in the TS instructions:

 

 

If I refer to this measure, the TS chain would be so 17 mm too short, my estimation being still below reality...

I decided to contact Top Studio about this problem. Here is my e-mail content:

 

Hello,
I bought the Top Studio 1:12 Chain set for Tamiya TD23177. 
I built the chain to the suggested lenght, 145 mm, but it appears that this lenght is too short, it should in fact be about 162 mm (lenght of the Tamiya chain, by the way).
I hope I will have enough links and nipples to get the right lenght.
I suggest you to bring the necessary correction to your instructions, to avoid other modelers to meet the same problems than me.
Indeed, it is only chain in place that I found that.
You can see in my Britmodeller thread what I mean:

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235103982-honda-rc213-v-14-repsol-tamiya-112/page/7/

Thank you

 

Cheers, O                  

 

Edit a bit later: I decided not to wait any longer to unstick the rear fender. So, I could measure the missing lenght, that is finally between 14,5 mm and 15 mm. I pulled out the assembly tool (that begins to be a bit worn out), the parts and the instructions of the chain set...

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello chaps,

 

 

 

The challenge now is to close the chain while getting a good tension of the latter...

 

Cheers, O                   

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

This chain will definitely have caused me some headaches, but well, it is now in place.

All is not perfect (with the experience gained, I would certainly achieve a better result if I had to do it again), but I though consider this result acceptable, the defects being probably scarcely noticeable when the build is over, with many elements yet to come.

 

 

 

Cheers, O                 

 

[Pouln]

Glad to see that you were able to correct the chain issue. Well done, Olivier

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

A new update, while I assembled the right exhaust and added some TS and Tamiya parts both sides:

 

 

 

Left side, this metal arm (much simply represented by Tamiya) is to assemble:

 

 

The Top Studio Super Detail-Up set allows to bring many improvements to the Tamiya kit, even for some elements that will be totally invisible such the section 8 (that will be hidden by the attaching undercowl). The section 5 is the one to follow if you want to represent accurately the above metal arm:

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers, O                 

[Hamden]

 

This is really starting to look like a motor bike now, all your extra detail work is taking it to the next level.

 

   Stay safe      Roger

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

Well, adding the Top Studio elements with their wires on the left side is, how gamblor916 would say, "when the fun starts"!

Little by little, though, with a lot of patience:

 

 

 

 

 

This step of the page 6 in the TS instructions is yet far from being OK. Oxygen sensors, clamps, loops in which the wires must pass etc. are still to add.

 

 

Cheers, O                  

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

A new update regarding the job on this left side:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cheers, O                   

[Pouln]

As always, amazed at the level of detail achieved and at the level of patience you have to come to the right result. Looking really great.

[Prop Duster]

Olivier,

Once again your "madness" has out done its self. I'm sure  this WIP could be used by Honda race mechanics as a training manual.  

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

My left side, with many improvements brought mainly thanks to Top Studio, is now over:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have to add some missing elements on the right side now, before going on with further challenges, probably first with the front fork and wheel assembly...

 

Cheers, O                    

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello my friends,

 

I want to share with you the YouTube video that is the best reference for my build, even if some other ones are useful too:

 

 

 

A big thank you to the author, ODDEYE109!

 

I just began the work on the front fork. I first applied a coat of X-11 enamel thinned with X-20 on the Tamiya parts B21 and 22. Then the 2 arms of the fork were assembled:

 

 

 

The video mentioned above allowed to bring useful precisions for a faithful replica of this area:

 

 

N.B: I thought I could use a stretched cotton swab to get the clear soft tube, but cotton swab sticks are nowadays made of cardboard instead of plastic tube, for ecologic reasons. I will try to find (Aliexpress?) such 0,6 mm clear soft tubes.

Any suggestion welcome on this point...

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edit a few hours later: I have ordered on Aliexpress silicone soft clear hoses in 0,5 and 1 mm diameter (the smallest sizes I found). But the delivery date being very far, and as I couldn’t wait so long, I thought to another option, looking closely in my bench. And I found the solution (certainly better than the ordered silicone hoses):

 

 

 

Cheers, O                    

[Totally Mad Olivier]

Hello chaps,

 

The challenging step of front fork (big) improvement using the Top Studio detail set is nearly over:

 

 

 

 

Cheers, O