Jump to content

Honda RC213 V '14 REPSOL Tamiya 1/12


Recommended Posts

You have to cut a slot so there is room to adjust. If you look at my chain it is tight with no sag, at the absolute limit of fit. I had to cut a bit of the swing arm to fit the front sprocket. Best solution would be to add another link and move the rear axle back but that would be a lot of extra work.

 

You should build the engine and fit it now to test it. Also measure it against the kit chain. It will save you a headache later I assure you.

 

51963112833_0c532094a0_o.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks a lot, Le. Now things begin to be more clear for me. Are you sure though that I will meet the same problems with the Honda Repsol than the ones you met with your Ducati? Did you also build the Honda? 

You said above that the Tamiya screws should not work:

 

spacer.png

 

Do you suggest, in addition to the slot enlargement, to replace both 1,6 mm Tamiya screws par 1,2 mm rods, that's right?

Anyway, thanks again, all these tips won't fall on deaf ears. In particular, I will do a dry fit engine in place to check as you suggest.

 

Cheers, O                   spacer.png

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Before any cutting just test fit the chain. It may fit perfectly and you can use the Tamiya screws.

 

I used the Hobby Design chain on my Honda. It's the non moving type.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello my friends,

 

I decided to apply carbon decals (I got the 1/24 Scale Motorsport, that are indeed more appropriate than the 1/12 ones) on the swing arm.

 

spacer.png

N.B: I used the Vallejo 861 Glossy Black applied with a paintbrush for this step.

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

To be followed as soon as possible...

 

Cheers, O                       spacer.png

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good thinking and your asking for clarification is a wise direction. It only takes a small bit of confusion to not get the expected results. 

As to: 

 The last picture from your message, in the last lines, Do I understand that you have taken your decals, glued them to post-it notes and glued the post-it notes to another sheet spacer.png? ----I will have to read that again, 😆I guess

"Let the good times roll "

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Prop Duster said:

Good thinking and your asking for clarification is a wise direction. It only takes a small bit of confusion to not get the expected results. 

As to: 

 The last picture from your message, in the last lines, Do I understand that you have taken your decals, glued them to post-it notes and glued the post-it notes to another sheet spacer.png? ----I will have to read that again, 😆I guess

"Let the good times roll "

 

I'm searching for the right English adjective (English is my second language, so please be gentle) for Olivier's approach to the decals, be it "sloppy" or "careless" or "impetuous" or "hasty", but remember what we are witnessing (holding our breath):

"+++ I wanted a more simple project, an out of the box build. +++"

 

😇

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 28/03/2022 at 07:34, Prop Duster said:

Do I understand that you have taken your decals, glued them to post-it notes and glued the post-it notes to another sheet spacer.png

Dear Steve,

I admit I took indeed an extreme care with these decals let me explain why:

- getting them requires time and patience tracing templates, reporting the latter on the decal sheet and cutting them carefully

- these carbon decals are of very good quality but very thin and fragile, I experienced that when making trials (see above)

- the Scale Motorsport carbon decal sheet is expensive, especially when you add the shipping cost and the unexpected custom fees, a good reason to take care and avoid waste.

- the recent problems met with a Tamiya decal on the fender probably also weighed:

 

spacer.png

 

And a few hours later:

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

N.B: I used the Magic Decal but also the Micro Sol for this step. The second decal was placed a few hours after the first one, after the total setting of the latter.

 

Cheers, O                     spacer.png

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Olivier:

I beg your pardon for my thoughtless phrasing. :blush:  As I was attempting to only make a small silly comment.

However, your most complete and informative answer does make your process understandable and is even more impressive to me.

Again, I beg your pardon for my thoughtless phrasing. 

 

p.s. The process has shown its worth. The carbon fiber looks spectacular. Very well done :clap2:

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dear Steve,

 

Really don't need to apologize my friend, I didn't take wrong your comment and indeed, a more informative info about the process I used was necessary.

Now, as I went on applying my carbon decals, I had a doubt about the fabric size. I decided to do a merciless comparison:

 

spacer.png 

 

N.B: I was not long changing my mind about the question to keep or not these carbon decals (Jochen is gonna come after me again!). I will NOT keep them since I am not glad with the result...

 

Don’t you also feel that the pattern is « too neat » on these 1/24 decals, while the carbon frame is in reality a bit blurry?

They are so finally rather disappointing for me, especially if you consider their cost. The 1/24 would probably match better with an 1/6 or 1/8 scale bike.

I found out Tamiya carbon decals that seem to be more realistic, it is the ref. 12682 (extrafine cross section). I say "seem" because I could only see them on my computer's screen. If some of you have a tip and or experienced another carbon decal brand, I am of course very interested.

 

Edit a few hours later:

I inserted a pic of my fender in the middle of the merciless comparison above to confirm I prefer the painting option, better even if not perfect:

 

spacer.png

 

It would though be interesting to check with Tamiya carbon decals. I just ordered them, hoping the fabric will suit better...

 

Edit even a bit later:

 

spacer.png

 

Cheers, O               spacer.png

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Noooh! I'm not coming after you. I'm just sitting on my couch shaking my head and trying to find out why I shake my head. Is it disbelief? Is it admiration? Who knows?

 

The pattern of those decals looks too stark in a merciless close up photography - still any normal human modeller would have given himself a nice pat on his own shoulder for the decals and/or the (more subtle, a bit "irregular" but very convincing) stocking paint job.

 

Will anybody looking at the finished model at a normal distance or even "close" but without a mgnifying glass notice the decal is too stark?

I bet it looks great with the decals too (they look fantastic!). It does so until you have that merciless comparison shot.

(Yes, I know, if you know it, it does not make any difference what any regular audience might say)

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dear Jochen,

 

I expected impatiently your (funny, as always) reaction. 

If the 1/24 Scale Motorsport decals had just been too stark, too neat, I would not have questioned this option.

But the fabric should be much more fine (the merciless shows that it is at least 2 x too big).

And pity, the 1/48 is really too small. 

It is a pity because except that, these decals are top quality.

For me, the manufacturer should offer an intermediate fabric size.

We shall see in a few days the Tamiya one, hoping it will be more convincing.

I know you're right, probably no one, even Dani Pedrosa and Marc Marquez, the drivers of these bikes, looking at my finished model, would notice the "wrong" carbon fabric, but I am Totally Mad, and now that I highlighted this problem, I can't help going on like that. It is always the same, and fe, who would have noticed the groove missing on the Tamiya rims? Or yet, the too flat Tamiya tyres? Or yet the too thick racing stand supports?

On the other hand, I consider the result got on the front fender quite satisfying, and besides, I begun applying the same painting process on the rear one, waiting for the Tamiya decals to come soon I hope... You see, I also may be glad when the result is OK.

 

Cheers, O                spacer.png

  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello my friends,

 

A new little update, while I applied the painting/ stocking option on several "carbon" parts:

 

spacer.png

 

The pic just above being not so good, here is a close-up of the rear fender:

 

spacer.png

 

This fender, like the front one, will get a Gloss Clear coat, what is not the case for most of the carbon parts, that are satin appearance.

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

Sometimes, it is just a portion that must get the carbon effect, like on the frame:

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

The rear fender has now got the Gloss Clear coat (Gravity GC-306):

 

spacer.png

 

 

Cheers, O                 spacer.png

 

 

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello my friends

 

As I was applying the carbon on the meter dial, I noticed that the Tamiya decal 65, that represents the meter, is not really fine, due to visible pixels:

 

spacer.png

 

The decal has though been applied, after removing with care the undesired film around.

I used then Vallejo acrylics to get a better result: Dark Grey 994, mix of Tan Yellow 912 and Flat Yellow 953 and Carmine Red 908 with a paintbrush:

 

spacer.png

 

N.B: the result, on this close-up, enhances little defects (mainly because even removing the clear film, the decal is a bit too wide and too high, requiring to be cut with a new blade to avoid the decal to spill over the dial). Honestly, at naked eyes, the result is very acceptable. Another option, that will be showed later, will though be tried, using the 2nd kit B36 dial part, and the best one will be kept.

 

spacer.png

 

Cheers, O           spacer.png

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

+++ using the 2nd kit B36 dial part, and the best one will be kept. +++

 

 

Some folks around her claim "BMW" stands for "Bei Mercedes weggeworfen" (binned at Mercedes), so maybe your collecton of discarded (still pretty good) parts may come to a second life https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/forum/104-free-to-a-good-home/ unless you intend to build a showcase (or a second non-perfect model) with them.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Jochen Barett said:

maybe your collecton of discarded (still pretty good) parts may come to a second life https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/forum/104-free-to-a-good-home/

A good suggestion, Jochen (not very kind for BMW 😉)!

I didn’t know this section of BM.

 

Cheers, O

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most explanations for BMW are not kind ("bastel mal wieder" = "tinker another time", "Bring mich Werkstatt" (wrong grammar) = "bring me (to the) workshop") some are even not fit to print, but I thought about "binned at Totally Mad Olivier" as being "still pretty good".

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello my friends,

 

I said above that, regarding the dial, a second option would be tried.

I spent about 3h on it, using Photoscape X and my Macbook tools to get a neat dial from a pic I took of the Tamiya decal, then creating a custom decal.

The result is not better than the one I got with my craft approach (if some are interested, I may take a photo showing both results).

Good new, I just got now the Tamiya carbon decals I was looking forward to.

The pattern is much better imho than the 1/24 Scale Motorsport one, but they are very dark:

 

spacer.png

 

We could see above that carbon parts may vary quite a lot one to the other, in pattern as in color (sometimes Grey, sometimes nearly Black).

All in all, I prefer clearly these Tamiya decals, and they will be used on some parts, beginning with the swing arm, replacing the Scale Motorsport previously applied.

 

As I was waiting for these Tamiya decals, I began to apply the shades on my exhausts. I had done trials on my 2nd kit exhausts (see above), that were not totally satisfying.

I decided to follow the following sequence:

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

Cheers, O                     spacer.png

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello my friends,

 

Here it is. The right exhaust has got now its stripes too:

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

Some more details included in the TS Super Detail Up set will be added soon (springs, oxygen sensors etc.).

But for now, I'm gonna replace the Scale Motorsport carbon decals applied on the swing arm by the Tamiya ones, much more realistic.

 

Cheers, O               spacer.png

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello my friends,

 

I did not achieve to remove the Scale Motorsport decals placed on portions of the swing arm.

Consequently, I first tried to apply the Tamiya carbon decals over the latter, but the result was not totally satisfying (some details were lost).

That is why I took a strong decision: remove completely the paint (and consequently the carbon decals...) on the swing arm with the Tamiya Paint Remover (in a US bath to go much faster).

Then I applied again the Gravity Surface Primer (the Dark one GC-304 this time, as a Black coat  was to come).

For the Black coat, I changed and applied Gravity Anthracite Black (instead of TS-14).

I applied masks (pattern method) on areas on which the carbon decals must be placed and, only then, a Gloss coat was applied with GX112 thinned with Mr Color LT. Here too, it is imho an improvement compared with the first approach, in which the TS-83 was applied on the whole swing arm, before applying a coat of Vallejo Glossy Black with a paintbrush on carbon areas.

3 successive coats (a thin tack coat and, after a few minutes, 2 wet coats) of GX112 allowed to get a nice shine:

 

spacer.png

 

All this takes time, but imho, it is the price to pay to get a convincing result.

In the meantime, I show below how I applied carbon on a really challenging area: the inside of the Upper cowl:

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

Of course, this technique requires to have a 2nd kit.

We could ever see above that having a 2nd kit is often very useful.

Considering the time I spend on a build, I personally consider this purchase acceptable.

 

Cheers, O                 spacer.png

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello my friends,

 

I come-back to my swing arm, on which, after the TS-83 coat, the Tamiya carbon decals had to be applied:

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

What varnish will I choose, knowing that I prefer to apply it with a paintbrush? Notice that on the docs, the carbon appears rather flat on this area, about 4 on a shine scale of 10.

As I want to be sure the choice will be the good one, several options are tested on Tamiya carbon decal samples:

 

spacer.png

 

The Prince August is my choice (ready to use, water based, and good compromise flat/ satin look).

 

N.B: there are inscriptions on the carbon lower part of the swing arm in the doc above, suggesting decals to place over the carbon ones. But on the Repsol 2014 Honda bike (as well on Marquez as well as on Pedrosa one), no inscription (I checked on Tamiya and Blue Stuff decal instructions). If there had been inscriptions, the decals should have been applied before the PA mat varnish coat...

 

And a bit later:

 

spacer.png

 

Now was it worth it to remove the paint and redo completely the job in order to replace the Scale Motorsport decals? For me, yes, definitely:

 

spacer.png

 

 

Cheers, O                 spacer.png

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello my friends,

 

the carbon decals finally applied on the swing arm, I could go on and, following the TS instructions, improve the rear area both sides:

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

My swing arm is now ready.

I am so going to focus as soon as possible on improvements (thanks to the TS set) regarding the frame and exhausts (springs, oxygen sensors etc.)

 

Cheers, O                   spacer.png

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...