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Honda RC213 V '14 REPSOL Tamiya 1/12


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1 hour ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

+++

Now, considering the high quality of the Tamiya decals, do you think it is really necessary to cover them with a coat of Clear?

Do you think they would tend to turn a bit yellow with time??

 

Cheers, O      spacer.png

Judging from your reference pic https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/1293/xh8RQE.png it seems in real life the sticker(s) did receive a clear coat.

 

So, though in some cases I'd advocate to leave decals uncoated to preserve this "sticker effect", in this case I'm in favour of a clear cote or a coat of Clear.

 

Results look great, I will consider buying some stockings for me!

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Great result with the gloss coat Olivier, I think I would put a protective gloss or maybe satin coat just over the decals themselves.

 

   Stay safe       Roger

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Hello my friends,

 

I had a big problem when I wanted to apply the front decal on my 1st kit fender. I am thinking about the best way to fix it.

Things began well, though:

 

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But:

 

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Was the water too hot? Did I wait enough before removing my decal from the paper? Did I wait enough the total setting time of the Clear coat?

The modeler knows sometimes difficult moments, but considering what many people are going through these days, it is obviously not much...

 

Cheers, O          spacer.png

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4 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

Hello my friends,

 

I had a big problem when I wanted to apply the front decal on my 1st kit fender. I am thinking about the best way to fix it.

Things began well, though:

 

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But:

 

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Was the water too hot? Did I wait enough before removing my decal from the paper?

The modeler knows sometimes difficult moments, but considering what many people are going through these days, it is obviously not much...

 

Cheers, O          spacer.png

Here in the UK, you can buy replacement decal sheets from the importer for the kits that still in production, or have recently been.  I assume the French importers could do something similar.  
 

The UK importer is Hobbyco.net, but you have to call them and pay them.

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11 hours ago, Mumbly said:

Here in the UK, you can buy replacement decal sheets from the importer for the kits that still in production, or have recently been.  I assume the French importers could do something similar.  
 

The UK importer is Hobbyco.net, but you have to call them and pay them.

Thanks a lot, Mumbly. I'll call them, and also T2M in France.

Yesterday evening, after this little disaster, I tried to find such a sheet and it exists, but is backorder on Spotmodel and Hiroboy (the latter anyway doesn't ship to France, probably due to the Brexit).

I will try first to just repair the concerned area, hoping the new carbon frame will match not to bad with the previous one.

I will have to do new trials with these decals and understand why such a thing happened...

Happily, thanks to the dehydrator, I may apply the primer, the Gun Metal, the Black and the Clear coat successively 30-40 mn apart (especially thinned with alcohol). A little more time will be necessary before applying the decal again (anyway, pity, I don't have it yet).

 

Edit a bit later: I just sent an e-mail to T2M, explaining what happened and asking if they could send me another decal sheet at my expense. I hope I will get a fast and positive reply...

 

And a bit later: I learned something very important about the Gravity Gloss Clear today (is it also true for other brands??):

if you want a smoother surface, you must add LESS thinner (high viscosity Clear).

I thought up to now the contrary. Less thinner means a higher pressure (2 bars). And indeed, I get a smoother and shine surface.

 

Just now, about 3 hours after applying the Surface Primer:

 

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Cheers, O           spacer.png

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21 minutes ago, gamblor916 said:

I have spare decals but I am in Australia. If you can't get it closer to home I can send it to you.

That's a very kind offer, gamblor916.

For now, I didn't get a reply from T2M.

I will keep you informed in the next days...

 

Cheers, O

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Neat work on the front wheel  fender/mudguard. I too have tried the stocking method for CF with varying degrees of success. I like the TS detail set but don't think I would go that route when I eventually get around to my build. Far too fiddly!!!

 

The racing starts again...

 

Colin

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Hello my friends,

 

First I want to reassure you, I could place decals (except the one I miss, of course) without problem this time.

Been thinking about the reason why I met such a problem, and as I mentioned above, there are several possible explanations:

- the water I used was rather hot (probably about 50°)

- I applied the decal maybe a little too soon, and even if the Clear was dry to the touch, I should have been more patient

- there was maybe too much thinner in the Gravity Clear I applied. I have understood then (see above) that, contrary to what one might think, adding more thinner to the mix provides a less smooth surface

 

That is why, this time, I used luke water (about 25°), I waited 24h before applying the decals, and I used a mix with less thinner (ratio 15 drops of Clear, 5 drops of Activator and 4 drops of thinner). But as I still worried, I applied a little Tamiya Modeling Wax, to get an even smoother surface, at the risk of decreasing the adhesion of the decals. A little risk, as I explained the adhesion of these Tamiya decals is very strong.

 

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To gamblor916: I didn't get any reply from T2M up to now. Maybe could you take a good pic of the decal sheet and send it to me. I could maybe so create a custom decal from this pic. If you could also precise me the width and height of the decal, it would allow me to get the right dimension for the latter...

 

Cheers, O         spacer.png

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Thanks a lot, gamblor916, very good pic!

I measure a width of 8,5 mm.

I will try to create a custom decal from this pic...

 

Edit later: back home after a morning of pro work, I tried to get the desired Clear custom decals using Photoscape X. But it appeared very quickly that things would be complicated because the letters REPSOL were White on a light Blue background. I had to separate both inscriptions REPSOL and HRC. For the latter, I wondered how to keep the White line around the letters:

 

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Both .png files were exported in Word. Then I had to apply the right dimensions, to print them on my Clear custom decal, to apply a coat of Liquid Decal Film. That is now done. 

 

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Will I get acceptable decals? Not sure, but I will have tried, anyway. I have to wait a while before trying to apply them on my fender.

If necessary, I will ask you, gamblor916, to send me your decal...

 

And even a bit later: this first attempt didn't work, the White letters were clear. I am going to print on a White custom decal this time...

 

45 mn even later: pity, the last attempt with the White custom decal was not OK. It seems to be impossible to create a custom decal from a pic if the letters are White.

That is why, in the lack of any reply from T2M, gamblor 916, if you could send me the decal, it would be great.

I'll send you a PM about that.

 

 

Cheers, O          spacer.png

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Hello my friends,

 

I will soon be far from my bench for about 12 days.

But before leaving it, I began the chain build, using the TS Chain Set.

First a close-up to show the large gear on the rear bike:

 

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Normally, if you use the Chain set parts, the bolts must not be cut. But as I keep the D5 metal part, I decided to cut them on the bottom part of the large gear:

 

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Edit a day later:

 

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Cheers, O        Stop war!    spacer.png

 

 

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Olivier,

Another tour de force, in making a model better than it was ever thought possible.

The frustration of having "the one decal" commit to the "fold- up-ums" is madding. Though, I am equally confident you will come  to a successful  end.  

 

As  wild thought have you thought of trying to have a  painting mask made,  as is done  for national markings on air craft models?   one example:  http://www.montex-mask.com/en/home    or:  https://dnmodels.com/

or having someone with a vinyl cutter (Cricut is one brand, re: https://cricut.com/en_us?  ) could make them for you? 

Regardless good luck and keep having fun, I know I am.

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On 08/03/2022 at 12:07, gamblor916 said:

Sometimes places like brandsoftheworld.com will have vector images of the logos you need.

I suppose you talk about the Ford Mustang logos, don't you?

Thanks, I will go seeing this site, new for me. 

On 09/03/2022 at 06:30, Prop Duster said:

The frustration of having "the one decal" commit to the "fold- up-ums" is madding. Though, I am equally confident you will come  to a successful  end.  

Thanks to gamblor916, I should, indeed, without needing to order a 3rd kit just for 1 decal!

 

I am now very far from my bench, my friends, for holidays, but we keep in touch...

 

Cheers, O               spacer.png

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello my friends,

 

I am back home again after holidays.

I continued the assembly of the chain, very delicate and painstaking.

Last February 12, I reproduced the TS Chain set instructions, that is why I won't reproduce them again here, but one thing is sure: if you decide like me to build this chain, you must FOLLOW THEM VERY STRICTLY and STUDY DRAWINGS CAREFULLY, because the slightest error will lead to failures or at least to waste of time.

I could so get a fist section of chain:

 

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To be followed as soon as possible...

 

Cheers, O                spacer.png

 

Edit: I got today gamblor 916 decals including the one I missed (see above). Thanks a lot to him!

I also got the 1/24 and 1/48 Scale Motorsport carbon sheets and the DecalMagic of the same brand.

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Your patience is second to none, I would have given up on that chain after one or two links!

The end result will be outstanding and well worth your time and trouble, keep up the good work

 

   Stay safe           Roger

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5 hours ago, gamblor916 said:

Building the chain is one thing. Fitting it is when the fun starts.

Did you use the same set, Le? I suppose so, reading your post.

Building the chain is though not easy, especially the step 10:

 

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Your post is rather scary, I can't imagine how difficult will be the fitting!

Do you have any tip to share about this challenging fitting to come?

 

Cheers, O                      spacer.png

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Be sure to grease it, otherwise it will wear out after first meters riding your bike.

Looks like a tedious task to me, Olivier, but the result is there. Very nice.

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You have to kind of treat it like a real bike. Drill out a slot at the rear axle so you can move it forward and backward a little bit. I used a 1.2mm brass tube for the axle. I don't think using Tamiya screws will work here. Fit front sprocket, make it able to spin but secure it with a screw. Fit rear sprocket then chain. Pull it tight and jam something in the slot to hold it.  Add glue. Good luck.

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I used a Top Studio chain for this Ducati. You can see I didn't cut a slot here and the front sprocket is too far back and hits the swing arm. The rear axle needs to be maybe 0.5mm forward.

 

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On 25/03/2022 at 00:15, gamblor916 said:

Drill out a slot at the rear axle so you can move it forward and backward a little bit. I used a 1.2mm brass tube for the axle. I don't think using Tamiya screws will work here. Fit front sprocket, make it able to spin but secure it with a screw. Fit rear sprocket then chain. Pull it tight and jam something in the slot to hold it

Thanks Le for these tips but I admit they are not totally clear for me. Maybe a little drawing or a pic with arrows would allow me to understand better your suggestion.

On 25/03/2022 at 01:32, gamblor916 said:

You can see I didn't cut a slot here and the front sprocket is too far back and hits the swing arm. The rear axle needs to be maybe 0.5mm forward.

 

Here too, I must say I don't see any defect on your Ducati chain (very very nice build, btw). It is a fact that I am far from being a specialist of bikes...

 

In the meantime, I finished the chain build, tedious, I confirm, dear Poul:

 

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Cheers, O               spacer.png

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