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Honda RC213 V '14 REPSOL Tamiya 1/12


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No need to redo the whole thing. Just fill the holes with superglue, re-drill and touch up the orange. Removing the screen and giving it another thin coat of clear will blend it in nicely.

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Thanks a lot, Hamden, these kind words sound like a powerful encouragement!

 

On 06/08/2022 at 02:57, gamblor916 said:

No need to redo the whole thing. Just fill the holes with superglue, re-drill and touch up the orange. Removing the screen and giving it another thin coat of clear will blend it in nicely.

Honestly, gamblor, I don't think I was able (it's too late, anyway, the part was dipped in the US bath with Paint remover) to achieve successfully such touch-ups, with the decal GAS in immediate proximity, the Gloss coat ever applied etc. With my own skills, I am nearly sure the Orange touch-ups would have been visible and, for such an important and visible element, a compromise was not acceptable for me.

I preferred to leave on a good basis and do the necessary corrections BEFORE the painting job, what I should have done first.

As I said above, I took advantage to further improve the upper cowl, and also the set of Tamiya parts A12/ 13/ 14 (I don't know how to call it).

The comparison below will show better than words what I mean:

 

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The Tamiya upper cowl, initially at least 1 mm thickness (much more by places), is now 0,7 mm nearly everywhere. 
 

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Futhermore, good new, I got my driver supposed to represent Marc Marquez (I recall I could not find a figure of the latter at 1/12) that is in fact a Valentino Rossi one:

 

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I forgot to precise in the label: compared with the mechanic, but you understood.

 

I could though try to thin a bit my strong mechanic 😉. But all that is for later, I still have work to do on my first bike...

 

Cheers, O

 

Last minute: I also just got the carbon kevlar ordered on spotmodel on kind gamblor's suggestion:

 

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This decal should be used on the side fairings inside, and remain an option inside my upper cowl to redo...

 

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Hello chaps,

 

In my previous post, I said I would certainly use the SK carbon kevlar decals inside my side fairings, and possibly for the upper cowl inside.

But I changed my mind and preferred the painting option for the side cowls, because the inside of the latter is very complex.

I used so the Gravity net (an improvement compared with the stocking in many situations) and here is the result:

 

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In the same time, I go on with my upper cowl, whose shape begins to be pretty nice. (Re) painting job to come soon...

 

Cheers, O

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17 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

+++

I'm afraid I am going to redo completely the uppercowl. +++, as the merciless comparison below confirms

+++

Of course, I know some will say that redoing the full job while no one would have noticed this error is a pity, but sorry, I have tried to be faithful on slightly visible details, yet this upper cowl, especially on its outside, will be particularly visible and consequently, I can't stand keeping it like that. 

+++

(it's too late, anyway, the part was dipped in the US bath with Paint remover)

+++

(Re) painting job to come soon...

Cheers, O

 

Olivier, with the world in turmoil (Middle East, Far East, and in the East), it feels so comforting to have this one constant in life!

 

Yet as always: GUT WRENCHING.  It looked "pretty good" if not even "acceptable for a quick out of the box build".

 

I wonder about the width of the slits in the screw heads. Maybe it is possible to make "screws" out of a piece of "silver" wire of the proper diameter. Round off the "head", cut/saw a slit and leave the rest cylindrical.

Edited by Jochen Barett
embarrassing typos
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On 07/08/2022 at 20:36, Jochen Barett said:

I wonder about the width of the slits in the screw heads

😂 I won't go that far, Jochen, but I would like to represent (at least on the 2nd bike, with the upper cowl in place) the extension of the windshield, the nuts and the screws threads inside (optional on the first one, since the upper cowl inside will not be visible or so few).

In the meantime, here is my reworked upper cowl after the White base coat:

 

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As I have to leave this element for now, I come back to the side cowls. The inside being OK for me, I have to place decals on the outside but, before, I have to decide if these side fairings will be in place or not. I had 2 options:

- place only the left one while the right one would be in place on the bike

- place none of the side fairings

I opted for the second option. Consequently, before the decal job, I had to remove the "screw" on top (if I had chosen the first one, I would have replaced the Tamiya bulge by a little metal screw, as I did on the front fender) and drill the little hole for the attaching screw: 

 

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Cheers, O

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Hello chaps,

 

A new little update:

 

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The inscription REPSOL both side was far from being simple to apply, even if happily, the quality of Tamiya decals is an advantage. I had to do some delicate brushstrokes with Vallejo 861 and 842. When all was finally acceptable, the GC-306 was applied following the Gravity procedure.

The upper cowl is going on, but I had some troubles with the 26 inscription, the Blue Stuff decals being not at the same level of quality than Tamiya ´s ones:

 

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In parallel, I also go on with the rear cowl:

 

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Cheers, O

 

 

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Hello chaps,

 

A new update tonight, while I will be far from my bench in the next 8 days:

 

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I got just today the RB Motion tiny parts I had ordered, and could so go on and finish the upper cowl job:

 

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In order to fix better the nylon net in the concave inside, I glued tiny portions (1 to 1,5 mm diam) of dst.

If you use this technique, don't remove the dst, leave it in place. If you do, you will get little yellow spots:

 

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Rear cowl:

 

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Cheers, O

 

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Olivier

I was betrayed by my mail program :wtf: , as it had decided to classify your posts along with many others as spam.  I was blissfully unaware of the lack until just a day ago. 

Regardless you progress has gone on to new heights. I am, as ever, in awe of your skills. :like:

I can almost smell the fuel and oil from here.

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That black part is the camera facing forward so the front should be a glossy lens. The square in the front cowl is the hole for the front camera. If the camera isn't fitted then a weight equal to the camera is fitted to be fair to all teams. Also I think the black parts in the number is the reflection of the photographer because the edging is probably mylar.

Edited by gamblor916
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2 hours ago, gamblor916 said:

Also I think the black parts in the number is the reflection of the photographer because the edging is probably mylar.

Thanks a lot gamblor for these precisions about the cameras.

And pity, you are right about the black portions in the numbers, as this other pic confirms:

 

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I will try to do the corrections made necessary by this error as well as possible...

 

Cheers, O

 

P.S: thanks too, Steve! I had to choose between "thanks" for the kind comment and "laugh" for the last part of your post...

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10 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

Thanks a lot gamblor for these precisions about the cameras.

And pity, you are right about the black portions in the numbers, as this other pic confirms:

...

 

Oh boy.

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Hello chaps,

 

About the rear camera, I wonder if, since my rear cowl will not be in place on the bike, it is relevant to represent it. On most of the pics, there is, instead of the camera, a metal cap:

 

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Now regarding the error I made with the 26 inscription, I had several options:

- leave the number with the error, to avoid risks associated to new corrections

- do corrections with a paintbrush, as I did wrongly with Black. The Black corrections done were ever very delicate and consequently not perfect.

- order a new Blue Stuff Pedrosa set to get a new 26 decal and place the new decal over the previous one.

 

I chose the last option...

 

Cheers, O in holiday

 

 

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5 hours ago, gamblor916 said:

You can choose either. He rode with both options.

If he may ride with both options, it seems logic that the camera is  installed at the last moment and probably not while the rear cowl is not yet in place. Pity, the oval piece is not provided as an option in the Tamiya kit. I will need to scratch build it…

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4 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

If he may ride with both options, it seems logic that the camera is  installed at the last moment and probably not while the rear cowl is not yet in place. Pity, the oval piece is not provided as an option in the Tamiya kit. I will need to scratch build it…

 

A massive setback on such a nice quick and out of the box build. I guess we will see:

- sprue cut & shaped (discarded even before the painting stage)

- Milliput superfine (several attempts, serveral aluminum looking paints, BMF and decals - discarded)

- real aluminum, sanded, later brushed, "acceptable" until a better aluminum alloy is found

 

(I think the bike looks better with that oval piece than with the camera in place, and being the lazy person I am, I'd start with a piece of aluminum (a rivet) right from the start)

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Thanks for this funny post, Jochen (would you mean I am a bit perfectionist??).

In fact, the rear cowl being itself not in place, I thought I could put none of the 2 options, what would fix the question of this brushed alu cap…

A pic showing the rear cowl naked (without cap or camera) would be great of course, I personally couldn’t find it in the net.

On the further Marquez bike that will take place near this one, the rear camera would be assembled.

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Hello chaps,

 

Back home after nice and sports holidays at Kitzbühel, in the beautiful Austrian Tyrol (e-bike, paragliding, hiking etc.).

Just before leaving home, I had worked on the undercowl. It was nearly over, it is now OK:

 

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Back home, I got in my letterbox the Blue stuff set that I had ordered to get a new 26 decal. I applied it over the previous one. Happily, the wrong Black corrections were nicely covered, and I didn't need to apply Black again in the top square into the 6. On the other hand, one more time, I had folds problems with this decal. These folds appeared after the setting:

 

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Cheers, O

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Welcome back.  spacer.png

Once again, we can watch  the interplay of the perfectionist verse the modeler... It really looks spectacular my friend.

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Hello my friends,

 

A new update on this Sunday: when looking at pics, I wondered if the stripes on the fuel tank, seat and rear cowl were Black or Dark Blue:

 

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This color issue solved, I could go on:

 

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The anti-slip knee anchor pads provided by Tamiya are much too thick (clear polystyrene parts). Decalcas provides better ones in the windshield set, but imho, the best ones, self adhesive, are given by Blue Stuff. More, they are faithful to the Pedrosa ones, that are bigger than Marquez ones. You will have to engrave many holes with 2 needles (a narrow one and a wider one) but it is worth it:

 

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Cheers, O

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If it wasn't for the cutting mat, I would  find it very difficult to tell that this was not a 1:1 bike, in the shop, being prepared for a race.   spacer.png

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On 9/11/2022 at 10:30 PM, Prop Duster said:

If it wasn't for the cutting mat, I would  find it very difficult to tell that this was not a 1:1 bike, in the shop, being prepared for a race.   spacer.png

Didn’t you know Olivier has a cutting mat in 12:1 scale on the floor of his garage?

 

Looking seriously good, Olivier

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Hello my friends,

 

I didn't tell you, but I ordered a few weeks ago the Top Studio Racing stand set (ref. 23008) in order to get front racing stands, like we may see on some pics taken in the paddock:

 

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I thought that these front stands would make more stable my both bikes, and that would also bring a plus to my scenery.

Too eager as usual, I began to assemble them (and also the rear stand for the 2nd bike) without noticing that the tripod arm, on the TS front stands, was not present on the above pics:

 

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After removal of the wrong arm, I thought all would be fine except that, BUT another problem appeared:

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Here is what I decided: I would use the Tamiya wheels on the TS rear stand (requiring corrections, see below):

 

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For the front stand (s), I will have 2 options:

- represent only 1 front stand (fe for the Pedrosa bike) and in this case, use the third Tamiya set of wheels I have)

- represent both front stands using the small TS wheels. I will go for this option if the front stand brings a real plus in term of stability.

 

A suggestion? 

 

Cheers, O

 

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