Jump to content

Honda RC213 V '14 REPSOL Tamiya 1/12


Recommended Posts

13 hours ago, silver911 said:

 

Just so you both (Olivier and Jochen) know...and without wishing to cause controversy or ill feeling with Manu...the 'suggestion' that it is in fact a pre-painted head for an action figure is for Manu to either confirm or deny.

All I will say is this...I myself was a figure painter for over 40 years and...believe me when I say that I personally never reached such dizzy heights of realism in my pieces...and know of very few who have...the best being Koreans...although not exclusively so.

What is more important to me personally is...we each choose a solution that we are comfortable with...be it to use or commission the work of others...to be used in our pieces.

It never mattered to me if the clients claimed my work as their own.

 

I am enjoying your work Olivier...and will only comment from a personal perspective in future.

 

Regards

 

Ron

 

Hello guys,
I'm surprised to read some things about my figure and how some people interpret some things.
I made a 1/6 car from A to Z because I wanted to insert an animated figurine into it.
There is a market with enthusiasts, shops, forums for the 1/6 figurine and most importantly the body of a 1/6 figurine allows you to insert several servo motors.
So I bought a figurine (on the forum I just wrote that I had made the hood and the goggles!!!) and I cut out the body (which was not intended for that) to insert 2 servo motors.
Thanks to @silver911for his wise words.
Sorry for the off topic (closed for me) and back to the Honda, thank you.

Manu

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, gamblor916 said:

I only have the boots and helmet done

Great boots and helmet! Where did you find the boots?

 

5 hours ago, Ghost69 said:

I'm surprised to read some things about my figure and how some people interpret some things

Sorry Ghost69 if we could suppose wrongly that you had bought a prepainted head (like I just did) for your figure (it wouldn't be a shame...)

Would you kindly share with us the way you could get such an incredibly natural face for the latter?

 

Cheers, O

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don't be sorry Olivier there is no problem but I wonder if the translator is translating some things the wrong way.
I never wrote that I had painted the face of my miniature...I don't know why people think that!!!
When I put the photo of the head I indicated at the time that I had made the hood and its glasses, that's all.
In summary, I therefore bought a figurine (head + body), the head was already like that, I did nothing on it, however I cut out the body to place servo motors there.
I have the impression of finding myself in a controversy when I have absolutely not told a story.
I never judge anyone, for me this forum is a place where people take pleasure in sharing their achievements, I don't care if the object is made of paper, cardboard, plastic... I say to myself "this guy is happy to show what he does...let's share his pleasure"
Have a good evening

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, Ghost69 said:

I never wrote that I had painted the face of my miniature

Indeed Manu, you never wrote that, I may confirm as I followed with great interest your amazing 1/6 Fiat 806 build.

But as you didn't precise that you bought it, and as it is incredibly realistic, we wondered how you could have got it.

I just may hope my Kitano will be as realistic than your Bordino.

The misunderstanding is cleared up.

Have a nice evening too

 

Cheers, O

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

To complete my explanation.
I was at the time on a forum of 1/6 figurines and I published my Fiat in a suitable section.
The members of the forum knowing me and knowing the figurines perfectly knew that I had not made the head, therefore I had not brought this precision.
When I came to post on this forum, for the sake of simplicity I mostly copied my messages... so indeed I could have specified it.

You know everything ;o)
Manu

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Ghost69 said:

Don't be sorry Olivier there is no problem but I wonder if the translator is translating some things the wrong way.
I never wrote that I had painted the face of my miniature...I don't know why people think that!!!
When I put the photo of the head I indicated at the time that I had made the hood and its glasses, that's all.
+++

 

If anything I tried to mock Olivier (I hope he will never get used to it). But I didn't comprehend the head was "just bought" (Nothing wrong with that! The car build is stunning anyway!), sorry about that.

 

Looking at other passages, sometimes things seem to get "lost in translation" (from French (writer) to English (post) to German (reader). "The candles are modified and connected" makes more sense to the reader who has heard about "bougie d'allumage" (candles of ignition) or "Zündkerzen" (igniter candles) than to a person who just knows his "spark plugs" ("étincelle bouchon" or "Funkenstöpsel" - literally translated).

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, gamblor916 said:

 

I modelled and 3d printed both of them. I'm waiting for some more resin to print some more.

Impressive! You are a pro of modelling, definitely. I wish I could model like you do. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Ghost69 said:

so indeed I could have specified it.

Thank you Manu for these precisions. As Jochen said, nothing wrong with that, you can't be a master in all areas and the car build is totally stunning furthermore. 

I am fascinated to see that some guys achieve to get such a result for a face and it would be interesting to know the name of this figurine forum. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello chaps,

 

I had to come-back to the wiring that was not over. In my June 28 post, I anticipated that connecting the 0,3 mm wires to the Top Studio connectors B would mean amazing moments to come. I may confirm it was a nice party... I am still waiting for the 0,3 mm wires from Aliexpress but I could get some as I said in the July 6 post, being so able to go on a bit further:

 

spacer.png

 

Even though I think not many people will check the validity of these connections, I made a point realizing them as TS suggests to do it. It is thus a real forest of cables that intertwine on this little area between the handlebars and the dashboard:

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

If the wiring is now over for the set of connectors A and B, there are still cables to connect, including these ones that I forgot:

 

spacer.png

 

Cheers, O

 

Edit the next day:

 

spacer.png

 

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 14/07/2022 at 17:45, silver911 said:

If I may offer this Olivier...highly recommended above AliExpress...I have often put a link to them for other members.....https://www.componentshop.co.uk/chg1/super-thin-wires.html

 

Ron

 

Thanks Ron, I ordered on this site and, the next day, Ali informed me that my 0,3 mm were arriving in my country. Both should arrive nearly in the same time. Not a problem, these wires will certainly be useful for later.

As I am still waiting for them, I decided to focus on an important detail, before beginning the Orange Fluo job on the cowls:

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

The same job was done for the opposite side decal:

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png


N.B: I will have so logo decals for my 2nd bike, ordered 2 days ago. I also ordered the Tamiya front fork detail set and the TD 23175 détail set that is a less detailed version than the one used this time.

 

Cheers, O

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello chaps,

 

I was not totally happy with my first trials (even if ever much better  than the Tamiya decal) because the gradient was missing.

In fact, I have realized that it was an error to start with the Tamiya decal.

I could find easily the logo (only left side, pity) on Internet. 

I just had to export it in Word and resize.

For the right side, things were more difficult: I could use the flip function in the Photos app of my Mac but the inscription HONDA was returned too.

I decided to print on photo paper the logo and, separately, the correct inscription, to glue the latter on the logo and to take a photo:

 

spacer.png

 

Once printed on the custom decal at the right size (5 mm rather than 5,5 mm as I said wrongly above), the result is as good as for the left side:

 

spacer.png

 

Cheers, O

 

 

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Colin, and welcome on the thread.

As I am still waiting for the 0,3 mm cables, I decided to begin the painting job on the cowls (or rather to go on as the Surface Primer GC-303 and the Titanium White GC-102 were ever applied). 

Before applying the Fluo Orange GC-127, a delicate masking step is necessary. Tamiya provides masks to cut but I highly recommend to use the great RACING TORO masks, that are exactly the same but already (precisely) cut off, what allows to win a lot of time. 

Studying the pics to check the precise position of the masks gave me the opportunity to see the difference, in my pics, between 2014 version ones and later ones (I had not noticed it up to now):

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

The beautiful Tamiya box-art, very accurate, was useful too for this masking step.

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

N.B: I am very happy with the Gravity paints. If I had known and used their Wimbledon White (even if we may prefer the color of my mix), I would certainly have avoided the big problems of devil spots I got that contributed to discourage me with this build (what absolutely doesn' t mean I'm gonna give it up forever).

Next step: Fluo Red after masking...

 

Cheers, O

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello my friends,

 

A new little update with the Light Fluo Red:

 

spacer.png
 

I am going to use the Gravity Gloss coat set GC-306 for this next step to come.

The Fluo colors are particular, and Philippe Devos, in his article (TMM 141 french ed.) showed the problems he met applying the decals directly on the Tamiya Fluo Red, the latter rubbing off the White digits:

 

spacer.png

 

Cheers, O

 

Edit a few hours later:

 

spacer.png

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, gamblor916 said:

The whites on that decal sheet are quite transparent. You really need to double up or back with white.

I hope the Blue Stuff whites will be opaque enough (Pedrosa had the number 26). For the 93 of my further Marquez bike, if necessary, I will be able to double the decal as I will have it in triplicate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello chaps,

 

I said above that my next step would be the decals, but I changed my mind, and decided to first paint the inside of the fairings, thinking that applying necessary masks over the latter would be risky. So:

 

spacer.png

 

I am though not sure the Flat Black is correct, because I wonder if the side cowls are made of carbon or not.

For the upper cowl, we ever saw above that it was certainly carbon, and anyway not Flat Black plain:

 

spacer.png

 

The Flat black applied inside the upper cowl is so just a base. I could possibly apply carbon decals over...

 

Cheers, O

 

N.B: if any of you has pics or a reliable source of info about the side fairings (close-ups) to determine if they are carbon too, it would be great. I personally made researches on the Net, found very instructive new pics furthermore, but up to now, impossible for me to say what material (ABS, carbon or else) was used for these bikes. In the doubt, I will leave the Flat Black...

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

15 hours ago, Ghost69 said:

Thanks a lot Manu for your contribution, with this very instructive article talking about the evolution of aerodynamic cowls, of which we may draw interesting conclusions. Let's focus on what the article says and shows about Honda's approach:

 

spacer.png


This paper, that mentions experimental use of carbon for the  fairings (only the upper one or all fairings?) was written in 2017, while the RC213V I represent is the 2014 version. So, we may suppose that, in 2014, the fairings were not carbon. The pic shows an unpainted carbon upper cowl on this experimental later version.
Now I realize that the close-up of my previous post showing the inside part of the upper cowl with a carbon pattern was relative to a later version (capture screen showing a 2018 version). I was so probably wrong relying on this video to apply carbon inside the upper cowl:

 

spacer.png

 

spacer.png

 

N.B: removing this decal is a blessing in disguise since I couldn't avoid undesired folds...

 

The question remains for the side cowls, for which Tamiya suggests to apply XF-1 too (Flat Black). Even if I would love to find a pic showing the inside of these side cowls, as I said above, in the doubt, I will trust on Tamiya's suggestion (Flat Black). Notice btw that each time a carbon had to be applied, Tamiya suggested X-18 and not XF-1. 

 

10 hours ago, gamblor916 said:

From what I've seen the fairings are the same carbon kevlar but the exhaust area is covered with silver heat shield.

 

 

Thanks gamblor916 for this great pic that I will add to my library. You will see my personal conclusions above about the carbon, that mot likely was not current on the 2014 versions.

We agree to say that the inside of the rear cowl is silver (heat shield) and I applied X-11 on the affected parts. But it shows a Satin Anthracite (I was about to apply Satin Black) on the lower part of the rear cowl, while the attaching rear camera is carbon:

 

spacer.png

 

Cheers, O

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Honda (and other teams) have been using carbon kevlar for their fairings for a long time. Below pic is from 2002. Second pic is from 2008. Last pic is the Gresini bike from 2014 which is actually a 2013 model.

 

52235968285_39f844b664_o.jpg

 

52235478921_97b2cfde38_o.jpg

 

52235508148_f1c34e7794_o.jpg

  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...