Jochen Barett Posted February 12, 2022 Share Posted February 12, 2022 Don't worry, your audience is not complaining! (just giggling away happily - and it seems you are enjoying the build the way you do it, with the usual merciless attention to detail) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted February 13, 2022 Author Share Posted February 13, 2022 Hello my friends, It is interesting to compare (before representing the shades) the Tamiya and Top Studio exhaust bottoms: 3/4 view: Front view: A comparison that shows what a good detail set may bring… Cheers, O 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted February 16, 2022 Author Share Posted February 16, 2022 Hello my friends, A new little update, as I have been working on the Top Studio clutch. It is a highly detailed piece, requiring a goldsmithing job: Cheers, O 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted February 17, 2022 Author Share Posted February 17, 2022 Hello my friends, Cheers, O 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted February 18, 2022 Author Share Posted February 18, 2022 Hello my friends, A new little update: On the other hand, TS provides more screw heads than necessary, making possible a further use (66 "C16" screw heads in the C plate showed above). I also assembled the TS rear brake disc, a challenging step because each part must be perfectly centered: One more time, the difference between the Tamiya part (acceptable) and the TS one is huge. Of course, you have to spend a lot of time to get this nice rear brake but it is worth it. On the other hand, you won't need to paint it... Cheers, O 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamden Posted February 18, 2022 Share Posted February 18, 2022 Very nice work Olivier this is coming together well and will look outstanding when finished Stay safe Roger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jochen Barett Posted February 18, 2022 Share Posted February 18, 2022 The brake disc is stunning. (Clutch too) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gamblor916 Posted February 19, 2022 Share Posted February 19, 2022 (edited) Love the progress. You should get a Dremel to scratch up the rear disc with circular lines rather than parallel ones. You can also grind the Tamiya screw heads flat to make it easier to place a PE piece over it. Edited February 19, 2022 by gamblor916 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted February 19, 2022 Author Share Posted February 19, 2022 17 hours ago, gamblor916 said: You should get a Dremel to scratch up the rear disc with circular lines rather than parallel ones Thanks gamblor for these suggestions. I wanted to follow the first one (scratch up the rear disc) but it appeared that these parallel lines we may slightly see indeed on the above pic are in fact totally invisible at naked eye, even looking very closely. 17 hours ago, gamblor916 said: You can also grind the Tamiya screw heads flat to make it easier to place a PE piece over it. That is what I did, but I don't recommend to remove totally the Tamiya screw heads if you intend to use the TS ones, because the latter are flat (PE parts). If you want to remove totally the Tamiya screw heads, you will have to order and use tiny hexagonal screw heads thicker than the TS ones. I ordered such tiny heads (I don't remember the name of the german site suggested then by Hannes) when I built a few years ago the Fiat 806, and I wondered if I should rather use these hexagonal heads or the TS C16 screw heads. I made trials with the latter and considered that the result was fine (the round Tamiya heads are nearly invisible under the hexagonal C16 parts). It is important to precise about this question that the C16 heads are less than 1 mm width). That is why I decided to use the TS C16 parts, grinding just a little bit the Tamiya round screw heads. Cheers, O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted February 20, 2022 Author Share Posted February 20, 2022 Hello chaps, A new update regarding the rear and front brake discs. The front brake disc step is a bit tricky, I recommend you to study carefully the instructions, especially if like me, you use the TS detail set. I have to say I have a lot of fun with this build. Cheers, O 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted February 21, 2022 Share Posted February 21, 2022 Wow, the TS set really adds a lot. Nice work Olivier! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted February 23, 2022 Author Share Posted February 23, 2022 Hello my friends, If the front brake disc step was a bit tricky, what to say about the swing arm (step 7 in the Tamiya instructions)? Without talking for now about the chain included in this step 7 (I decided madly to build a complete chain with the TS Chain set mentioned above), it is important to study carefully as well both Tam and TS instructions first: I recall I had ever prepared (among others) this step last January 29. A close-up is imho useful, especially for the right side, to see precisely how the resin part T3 and the PE part B14 must be assembled: Important too to watch carefully this area on the real bike, through several view angles: I also have to wonder if some PE parts must be painted* (it is obvious for the resin ones) and to take in consideration that several areas on the swing arm must get a carbon (and not X-18 as mentioned in the Tam sheet) look. Will I use carbon decals? Or will I use a stocking, like Philippe Devos in his article (Tamiya Model Magazine french ed. n° 141, 2016)? * and refering to these pics, the answer is yes, meaning that a coat of Metal Primer will have to be applied first... Many questions, so, and tiny PE parts to assemble with care, using a low setting gel CA: Cheers, O 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mumbly Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 Looking good, the amount of extra detail that can be added to a MotoGP bike is never ending (it is why I prefer those from the 70s and 80s as there are no electronics to worry about ). Don't know if you have looked at the build on YouTube by Gravity Colours US by David Thibodeau but it is worth it for some extra insight. He uses TS-83 for the frame and swingarm which looks perfect for sheen and colour, so not sure what your plans are for that. This is the link to have a look for yourself if you are interested where he has done the frame: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted February 24, 2022 Author Share Posted February 24, 2022 On 23/02/2022 at 23:13, Mumbly said: Don't know if you have looked at the build on YouTube by Gravity Colours US by David Thibodeau Thanks Mumbly, and I agree with you, the amount of extra detail on this bike is never ending. About the David Thibaudeau build, yes, it is one of my sources of inspiration. It is fe in this great review that I found the Marco Model Design jig (see my post of last January 20, p. 2). Like David, I use the Tam TS-83 over a coat of TS-14 for the frame and the swing arm, among others. I am studying both options (decal or paint) to represent the carbon fiber. Here is below a useful tuto about the decal option with Scale Motorsport carbon decals. Pity, I didn't order the Decal Magic when I ordered the carbon decals, I will do trials on the 2nd kit swing arm with other softening solutions (Micro Sol and Mr Mark): Support to the Ukrainian people fighting for his freedom! Cheers, O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted February 25, 2022 Author Share Posted February 25, 2022 Hello chaps, I got today the Marco Model Design jig, that should be helpful to handle the bike in further steps: Furthermore, I made an unsuccessful trial with the carbon decals. Applying such a decal on a hood like in the video is obviously much more easy than on a complex area on which I applied it, and the very fragile decal tore. I will probably use, at least on difficult areas, the painting option... Edit later: I found another video of the Scale Modeling Channel, showing this time how to wrap complicated parts in carbon fiber decal: N.B: the dehydrator will be very useful to fasten the decals drying. The Scale Motorsport mentions the dehydrator as the best option to speed up the moisture evaporation. I will do another trial following this tuto, hoping the result will be fine this time. Notice that in this video, the modeler uses both MicroSet and MicroSol. Cheers, O 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted February 26, 2022 Share Posted February 26, 2022 Ooh that's a nice jig! I don't build bikes (probably never will) but the jig is almost tempting 🙂 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted February 27, 2022 Author Share Posted February 27, 2022 Hello my friends, I am still training with the carbon fiber decals and thinking about the best way to represent the carbon frame. I will just precise some points regarding the decal option: - the Scale Motorsport decals I ordered were 1/12, what seemed to me logic for a 1/12 scale model. Yet on the latter, the carbon pattern is much too big. I had to order new sheets in the same pattern (Carbon Fiber Twill Weave), in 1/24 and even 1/48. I took advantage of this new order to order the Decal Magic setting solution, even if my MicroSet and MicroSol were OK during my trials. - In the video above, the modeler uses a Tamiya masking tape. I personally prefer a Clear masking tape (Badger Foto/ Frisket film), for a better perception of the limit and so a more precise pattern. - He traces with a 0,05 mm pencil this limit and cut it only then, probably to avoid damaging the surface with the blade. As I have a 2nd kit, I will use the latter and cut directly, in most of the cases, the Clear pattern. - As this pattern is Clear, I must not forget, after having used it to cut the carbon fiber decal, to remove it from the latter, before dipping the latter in the luke water! (I made this error during my trials!) - I applied directly the decal over the TS-83, while Scale Motorsport recommends to apply a coat of semi gloss black paint under their carbon decals. I had no adherence problem of the decal over the Metallic Silver, but it is though certainly better to apply this semi-gloss black coat, in case of little lack between 2 carbon fiber decals. - If I apply this semi-gloss coat on all portions that will get such decals, it will mean that I choose the carbon decal option. Indeed, the other option (painting using a stocking) supposes to apply first a coat of Metallic Grey (Philippe Devos suggests the TS-94, see above) and then apply the semi gloss coat, using the stocking to get the carbon frame. As I don't have for now the TS-94 (ordered a few days ago on Passion 132), I will use the X-10 Gun Metal for my trials. I will do first trials with this painting option before taking a decision. This trial will be done on the front fender, not to damage the limit on the swing arm by too many trials. About this fender, pity, on the exposed Honda Repsol, the decoration is different from the original 2014 one (Red Bull deco): Tamiya suggests to paint X-18 this front fender, what suggests that it was carbon (all carbon parts are suggested X-18 in the Tamiya instructions). I tried to find a good close-up of the 2014 bike and didn't find. The best I found for now are these: I could find the following carbon fiber front fender: Difficult to say if the original had such a carbon fiber patter, and I am not a specialist. But: Until proven otherwise, I will so consider that the front fender was carbon, and as I said above,I now show the result of a trial of the painting option on the 2nd kit one: https://youtu.be/b3ILJCsZIBE Conclusion: for the front fender, no doubt, I will use the painting option. I could though decide to use both options, depending on areas. On the real bike pics, we may see that carbon is very present, in various pattern sizes. To be followed Cheers, O 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jochen Barett Posted February 27, 2022 Share Posted February 27, 2022 A friend was surprised for a split second! He thought that the stocking method was only mentioned but not tested (and we are glad it is a "woman stocking"!). It looks quite good (way better than just gun metall or black!), but I fear we all know a fellow modeller who will do that fender with a decal and decal magic too and show us a comparison lacking the smallest amount of mercy. 😇 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lvp Posted February 27, 2022 Share Posted February 27, 2022 12 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said: Hello my friends, I am still training with the carbon fiber decals and thinking about the best way to represent the carbon frame. I will just precise some points regarding the decal option: - the Scale Motorsport decals I ordered were 1/12, what seemed to me logic for a 1/12 scale model. Yet on the latter, the carbon pattern is much too big. I had to order new sheets in the same pattern (Carbon Fiber Twill Weave), in 1/24 and even 1/48. I took advantage of this new order to order the Decal Magic setting solution, even if my MicroSet and MicroSol were OK during my trials. - In the video above, the modeler uses a Tamiya masking tape. I personally prefer a Clear masking tape (Badger Foto/ Frisket film), for a better perception of the limit and so a more precise pattern. - He traces with a 0,05 mm pencil this limit and cut it only then, probably to avoid damaging the surface with the blade. As I have a 2nd kit, I will use the latter and cut directly, in most of the cases, the Clear pattern. - As this pattern is Clear, I must not forget, after having used it to cut the carbon fiber decal, to remove it from the latter, before dipping the latter in the luke water! (I made this error during my trials!) - I applied directly the decal over the TS-83, while Scale Motorsport recommends to apply a coat of semi gloss black paint under their carbon decals. I had no adherence problem of the decal over the Metallic Silver, but it is though certainly better to apply this semi-gloss black coat, in case of little lack between 2 carbon fiber decals. - If I apply this semi-gloss coat on all portions that will get such decals, it will mean that I choose the carbon decal option. Indeed, the other option (painting using a stocking) supposes to apply first a coat of Metallic Grey (Philippe Devos suggests the TS-94, see above) and then apply the semi gloss coat, using the stocking to get the carbon frame. As I don't have for now the TS-94 (ordered a few days ago on Passion 132), I will use the X-10 Gun Metal for my trials. I will do first trials with this painting option before taking a decision. This trial will be done on the front fender, not to damage the limit on the swing arm by too many trials. About this fender, pity, on the exposed Honda Repsol, the decoration is different from the original 2014 one (Red Bull deco): Tamiya suggests to paint X-18 this front fender, what suggests that it was carbon (all carbon parts are suggested X-18 in the Tamiya instructions). I tried to find a good close-up of the 2014 bike and didn't find. The best I found for now are these: I could find the following carbon fiber front fender: Difficult to say if the original had such a carbon fiber patter, and I am not a specialist. But: Until proven otherwise, I will so consider that the front fender was carbon, and as I said above,I now show the result of a trial of the painting option on the 2nd kit one: Conclusion: for the front fender, no doubt, I will use the painting option. I could though decide to use both options, depending on areas. On the real bike pics, we may see that carbon is very present, in various pattern sizes. To be followed Cheers, O Hi Olivier, Nice work so far! Is the Gravity Gloss you are using the 1k or 2k(gloss+hardener) version. Miss following the Mustang. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted February 28, 2022 Author Share Posted February 28, 2022 10 hours ago, Jochen Barett said: I fear we all know a fellow modeller who will do that fender with a decal and decal magic too and show us a comparison lacking the smallest amount of mercy. 😇 No, dear Jochen, this time, the "fellow modeler" won't use carbon decals to do the fender. The very complex shape of this part leads me to go on with the painting option, at least for this part. This was a first trial on the 2nd kit fender, and I will do another one with a lighter Metallic Grey (probably Dark Alu Alclad) before going on with the 1st kit fender. This new trial will also be the occasion to test the resistance of the Gravity Clear to masking tapes... But decals should probably be used for more simple portions. 8 hours ago, Lvp said: Hi Olivier, Nice work so far! Is the Gravity Gloss you are using the 1k or 2k(gloss+hardener) version. Miss following the Mustang. Thanks Les! The Gravity Gloss is the 2K GC-306 (really great!!), including 3 flasks: Gloss Clear, Activator and Additive thinner. About the Mustang, I have never stopped working on it, in parallel to the Honda build. I look forward to see the results I get with the GC-306 on my WW body... I promise you a new update should be posted in the next days... Cheers, O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted February 28, 2022 Share Posted February 28, 2022 I like the result you got with the stocking method. Are you planning to use the Gravity Gloss also as final coat? I’m a bit worried it is too glossy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted February 28, 2022 Author Share Posted February 28, 2022 3 hours ago, Pouln said: I like the result you got with the stocking method. Are you planning to use the Gravity Gloss also as final coat? I’m a bit worried it is too glossy. Thanks a lot, Poul. About the question to say if it is too glossy, I admit it is really glossy indeed. Too much? Good question! Let's see again the level of shining of this bike: That is why, considering the big scale (1/12) this kit is, I don't think personally that the shine provided by the Gravity Gloss Clear is really excessive. Things would be a bit different if the kit was 1/24 scale, imho. Now, let's suppose I want to decrease a little bit the shining (just a guess), in your opinion, how could I decrease to a 8,5/10 the level of shine? Maybe by applying only 1 coat of this Clear? To test... Cheers, O 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted March 1, 2022 Author Share Posted March 1, 2022 Hello my friends, I made new trials with the front fender, bringing improvements and I think I am nearly ready to go on now with this painting option on my 1st kit fender: In a little while, a coat of Gravity Clear coat will be applied. We shall see if applying a single coat of the latter, I get a little less shining surface... Cheers, O 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamden Posted March 1, 2022 Share Posted March 1, 2022 Superb result on the front fender trial Olivier. Looking forward to seeing it with the gloss coat. Stay safe Roger 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Totally Mad Olivier Posted March 1, 2022 Author Share Posted March 1, 2022 Thanks a lot, Hamden! And as your wish is my command: N.B: a 3rd option would consist to apply very precisely the final coat of Gravity only on the decals And a bit later: Now, considering the high quality of the Tamiya decals, do you think it is really necessary to cover them with a coat of Clear? Do you think they would tend to turn a bit yellow with time?? Cheers, O 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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