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Honda RC213 V '14 REPSOL Tamiya 1/12


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Hello to all,

 

Even if my endless Ford Mustang 1964 1/2 Convertible at 1/16 scale is not over:

 

 

 

I begin a new build and thread dedicated to the 2014 Honda Repsol 213V Tamiya at 1/12.

Even if this awesome GP motorbike will require a lot of care, it should be more simple than the Mustang, for which a lot of scratch was and still is necessary considering the quite poor AMT kit and the fact that I made a conversion from a Coupe to a Convertible.

 

As my Mustang project is the priority, this Honda build will go on very slowly first (that is why I hesitated to open a new thread now).

Here are below the first pics I made, engine build:

 

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N.B: I painted the clutch but in fact, I should not use the Tamiya part, that is not very realistic. I ordered a Top Studio detail set in which a more convincing PE/ resin clutch is provided. But I should not get this set before several weeks...

Talking about detail sets, I will certainly order also the Tamiya detail set (front fork ref. 12667), waiting the latter to be in stock again on Passion 132.

 

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Cheers, O

 

 

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Thanks a lot, Roger and Poul!

I am very pleased to see you will follow me in this new project.

I wish all of you

a happy new year: health, happiness and enjoy modeling!

 

Stay safe too my friends    Olivier

 

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Well I can't wait to see what adventures our intrepid model master has in store for now.:thumbsup:

Also, a belated, Happy New Year! 🥳

 

 

 

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Thanks a lot, Steve!

Waiting for the details sets ordered on Spotmodel (Top Studio Super Detail up set 29016, Top Studio Footpeg 23172, Top Studio Chain set 23177, Decalcas Vacuum formed windshield DCL-VAC001) and HLJ (Tamiya Front Fork set 12667), I carefully go on, first with the Racing stand and its wheels. About the latter, I chose to paint in Clear red the "tyres" (Tamiya provides Clear parts but suggests to paint them Smoke (X-19). On some pics, they are indeed Smoke but on some other ones, they are Clear Red, what I prefer:

 

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Cheers, O

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Those are nice little wheels! 

 

I've been using the greenstuffworld chrome too, I bought it last summer after reading about it in your thread. Very good stuff indeed. 

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Hello my friends,

 

A little update regarding the Honda tyres:

 

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In order to stiffen the rubber, and to avoid cracking the Clear when setting the rim, I have decided to first assemble it on the tyre, then to mask the rim, and finally to apply the Clear on the tyres:

 

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Now aren’t these tyres too Black?

 

Cheers, O

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Yeah, I think that they have gone too black and very shiny. Mind you, I see quite a lot of aircraft modellers who seem to like their tyres that way. 😉

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55 minutes ago, Ade H said:

Yeah, I think that they have gone too black and very shiny.

Hi Ade H,

 

I don't think they are more Black than before applying the Clear coat.

But they were indeed imho too Black initially, and maybe the Clear coat has still a bit reinforced that.

I am gonna apply a coat of XF-85 (Tyre Black) on the Clear coat and we shall see...

About the shine, I said in the previous post that a satin coat will be applied finally.

I think that I should get a quite good final result doing so...

 

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Cheers, O

 

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Hello my friends,

 

I leave for a while my tyres to go on with the racing stand and the engine:

 

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It will be stored carefully, waiting for the motorbike...

 

Cheers, O

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On 1/7/2022 at 6:08 PM, Totally Mad Olivier said:

Hi Ade H,

 

I don't think they are more Black than before applying the Clear coat.

But they were indeed imho too Black initially, and maybe the Clear coat has still a bit reinforced that.

I am gonna apply a coat of XF-85 (Tyre Black) on the Clear coat and we shall see...

About the shine, I said in the previous post that a satin coat will be applied finally.

I think that I should get a quite good final result doing so...

 

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Cheers, O

 

The finish depends on what you are looking for.  Bridgestone were very a flat sheen, even fresh on in 2014 and also had a dull finish on the sidewall.  The great thing about modern Moto GP is the reference data.  I will have a look to see what I have which is in magazines  which might be useful.  

 

Tony

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Hello my friends,

 

A detail of the racing stand caught my attention (lately, as usual...) on the nice Tamiya box-art:

 

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I had a look on pics showing this part and it is confirmed:

 

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I decided to improve that, first on the left leg:

 

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A bit later:

 

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And even later:

 

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Hum... Well, those of you who follow me know that, when I say "it is OK, over" (I really mean it as I write it), nothing is sure. In this case, as I was looking again at the pic above (the 2nd one of this post), I noticed that another detail of this racing stand had to be improved:

 

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I used successively 1,3, 1,4, 1,5 and finally 1,6 mm drills and the result is much more realistic now:

 

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Cheers, O

 

 

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Looking good, Olivier. Especially the little red translucent wheels work great,

One little thing. I imagine that they will have scratches on the surface that touches the ground.

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On 09/01/2022 at 02:04, Mumbly said:

Bridgestone were very a flat sheen, even fresh on in 2014 and also had a dull finish on the sidewall.  The great thing about modern Moto GP is the reference data.  I will have a look to see what I have which is in magazines  which might be useful.  

Thanks for your contribution, Tony.

You are right, the following screen captures show that the 2014 Bridgestone tyres were rather flat (let's say 2/10 on a sheen scale of 10):

 

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But the Tamiya are rather 0,5/ 10 (not to say 0, very very flat) on the same scale. Really too flat imho. That is why I will apply the Tamiya acrylic XF-85 thinned with Mr Color LT. But as it will be easier to mask the rims (as I did for my previous trials) than the tyres, I will first paint the rims. But before, the moulding lines (discrete but present, inevitably) have to be removed on the latter:

 

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I didn't find an improved version of these rims available, and creating these hollows myself would be definitely very challenging while I said (in the Mustang thread) that I would not do scratch on this Honda build. I accept so this defect, as all other modelers did, I suppose.

 

Cheers, O

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A friend just said "Ha ha, wait and see him come up with a modified cylindrical dental drill bit in a few days and he'll modify the Tamiya spokes! In case that doesn't happen, he will buy a 3D printer soon."

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Same friend slept over it and suggested: "See him take measurement on the H-profile of the spokes, take a saw with a blade aproximately that thick, cut the wheels in halves, clean cutting surface on P800 wet sanding paper, use one half as a template to scribe on plastic card, cut the outline, thin the spokes, glue everything together, sand and polish everything, paint and resand everything a few tims, finally call the result "acceptable", and as soon as he did, remind him of  +++ I wanted a more simple project, an out of the box build. +++" :laugh:

 

We are watching (and admiring) you and your work, and we are sure it is not neccessary to say "Save the valve before cutting the wheel and don't forget to investigate the use of ballance weights." but to make things worse, let's take a look at the angled valves that were used at least "somtimes"

 

front

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/98/Honda_RC213V.jpg

 

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and rear (pic already shown by you)

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unlike the short straight one shown here https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img923/518/mFCTiF.jpg

 

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Thanks a lot Jochen for this clever and funny post!

I am not sure I will follow your friend's suggestions, even if it is tempting.

But a stupid "accident" occurred to my rims, that could lead me to make a trial.

What happened exactly?

Well, after having with care removed the moulding lines showed in my previous post, I decided to apply as the instructions mention, first the Tamiya TS-26 (Pure white), and later the TS-96 (Fluorescent Orange), both sprayed from my airbrush rather than from the can, for a much better control. 

Yet it appeared that if I wanted to get a saturated homogeneous final result, the Orange was very intense, nearly Red, not really the one we may see on pics (even if I am aware that pics aren't necessary totally faithful to reality). If I had totally watched the Didier videos in YT, I could have ordered, instead of the TS-96, 2 Gravity Colors references (127 and 169) to get a convincing Fluo Orange...

 

 

I didn't take a photo at this step of this imho too Red Orange I got but here is below what I mean:

 

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Well, without being sure of the way I would fix that (I have ordered Gravity Colors dedicated to this kit later), I decided to remove the whole paint.

And it is here that I made a big mistake: I first dipped in Paint Remover (OK up to now) the rims, but thought that I could, to go faster, also dip in the Cellulo thinner US bath... Even a few seconds were enough to damage the plastic (a good method though if you want to turn a smooth surface in an orange peel stitched appearance!)

No choice, I ordered a second kit, as there is no more detail set of the rims alone).

But consequently an opportunity to make a trial on these made unusable rims...

Now about the valves, first I ordered the metal Hobby Design ones (ref. HD 07-0020), then I tried to see if at the front, on the Honda Repsol 2014, the valves were angulated or not, but impossible to say for me.

 

Cheers, O

 

N.B: a label (attacks the plastic) is now added on my Cellulo thinner US tank, and a new US tank with Paint Remover is from now added in my bench…

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Oh darn... yes, that happened to me once, I accidently dipped my Fiat 500 dash in cellulose thinner, thinking it was ISO... Like you, I had to buy a second kit. It is called "learning" 😄 

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10 minutes ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

Precisely, Jeroen, and I would like to stop having to consider me as a learner, but...

I've given up that hope! My only wish would be to not make the same mistakes again, but that will also never happen 🤓

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19 minutes ago, JeroenS said:

I've given up that hope! My only wish would be to not make the same mistakes again, but that will also never happen 🤓

100% OK with that, Jeroen!

About the Jochen suggestion: I made a trial but really, this takes me too far.

While regretting the Tamiya kit is not really accurate on this precise point, we also have to deal with some compromises...

Anyway, I will now go back to the Mustang, and wait the 2nd kit and the detail sets ordered to go on with this Honda...

 

Cheers, O

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4 hours ago, Totally Mad Olivier said:

+++

But consequently an opportunity to make a trial on these made unusable rims...

Now about the valves, first I ordered the metal Hobby Design ones (ref. HD 07-0020), then I tried to see if at the front, on the Honda Repsol 2014, the valves were angulated or not, but impossible to say for me.

Cheers, O

 

N.B: a label (attacks the plastic) is now added on my Cellulo thinner US tank, and a new US tank with Paint Remover is from now added in my bench…

Regarding the wheels my prediction is: You will have a go with a "dremel" and a specially shaped "drill" bit / sander.

 

It seems for the official photographs "they" are hiding valves and ballance weights the best they can on purpose (to make things look sleeker).

 

When it comes to removing paint (alkyd resin type "enamel" so far) without hurting the plastic too much my favorite is "Methoxypropanol PM" AKA https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propylene_glycol_methyl_ether

around 11,-€ per liter in the local "art supply store". I'd expect it to work with acryllic resin paint as well. On the back of my mobile phone I painted a white area with Tamiya white and noted my own number on it with permanent marker. The white area remained unharmed for quite some time - until I used a liberal amount of hand sanitizer (containing mainly IPA) and touched it.

 

How would one translate "gut-wrenching" to French?

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23 hours ago, Jochen Barett said:

Regarding the wheels my prediction is: You will have a go with a "dremel" and a specially shaped "drill" bit / sander.

 

It seems for the official photographs "they" are hiding valves and ballance weights the best they can on purpose (to make things look sleeker).

 

When it comes to removing paint (alkyd resin type "enamel" so far) without hurting the plastic too much my favorite is "Methoxypropanol PM" AKA https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propylene_glycol_methyl_ether

around 11,-€ per liter in the local "art supply store". I'd expect it to work with acryllic resin paint as well. On the back of my mobile phone I painted a white area with Tamiya white and noted my own number on it with permanent marker. The white area remained unharmed for quite some time - until I used a liberal amount of hand sanitizer (containing mainly IPA) and touched it.

 

How would one translate "gut-wrenching" to French?

Dear Jochen,

 

About the wheels spokes, it seems to me impossible to get the right shape without removing them one by one. Here is what I did for the trial on my orange peeled stitched front wheel:

 

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We may see that this approach is not good, too difficult. In fact, The best would be to find a 3D expert in Fusion 360 (what I am far to be, pity), that would recreate completely the wheel with all its details. Even for such an expert, this would mean probably several hours to design them... 

 

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About valves and balance weights:

 

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About the Paint Remover (you look to be a chemist...), it would be interesting to know the commercial name of the cheap product you mention. The Tamiya Paint Remover does the job well on all kinds of paints, without damaging at all the plastic and without smelling too bad (wear of mask mandatory, though), but it is far more expensive (13,88€ for 250 ml, meaning 55,50€/ l). There are other Paint Removers from other brands, probably cheaper than the Tamiya one, but I didn't try them.

 

Gut-wrenching in french may be translated: déchirant...

 

Cheers, O

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