coolhand Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 Hi Hope you are all having a great Christmas. Hoping I could get a bit of weathering advice. Have recently finished the basic paint job on my latest build (Tamiya Rad8 and was hoping to try some washes made from oil paint. I'm guessing this technique would work best over a gloss coat. I was wondering if anyone can good gloss varnish that can be applied with a brush (I don't own an airbrush)? I normally use Klear but I'm not sure how this would react to low odour thinners? Many thanks Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade H Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 (edited) I'm not sure whether this question is mostly about weathering generally (title), pin washes with oils, or clear coats. Anyway, it's not wise to put oils over a gloss layer, even a so-called pin wash. You will lose the fine gradation and control, in which case you may as well make do with enamels. And unless you have panel lines and other recesses which you intend to fill, seriously consider whether a pin wash is even appropriate, realistic (does dirt of a single colour really gather in little islands around all details with the same intensity? No), or even worthwhile (if using Oil Paint Rendering, subsequent work will supplant the pin wash). I rarely use them. But if I have not convinced you, go and watch some of Mr. Rinaldi's streams to learn how to apply oils without any clear coats. Incidentally: What's a Rad8? Edited December 30, 2021 by Ade H 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stef N. Posted December 30, 2021 Share Posted December 30, 2021 Klear should be fine. It's one of the tougher clearcoats and some of the model companies thinners are mild. Give it a try on some scrap or hard to see area but I think it should work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolhand Posted December 31, 2021 Author Share Posted December 31, 2021 Hi Thanks for the info, given me plenty to consider. A Rad 8 is an 8 wheeled armoured car from wwll, it's full name is Sd.kfz 232 Schwerer Panzerspahwagon Rad 8 . Many thanks Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 In my experience of using oils for weathering, a Satin surface suits me best. Oils on a gloss surface slide around like jelly on a warm plate and are really hard to blend and feather. Matt surfaces are worse as the oils won't move at all, as you have already intimated. If I just want a 'panel line wash' effect with no blending I'd use a gloss varnish but use thinned enamels for the faster drying time and easier clean up. This is based on my own way of working and on the paints that I have on hand so don't take it as gospel, experiment and find the way that suits your own style. It doesn't take long to paint up some cheap old scrap plastic pieces for the purposes of trying stuff. 😄 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bish Posted January 2, 2022 Share Posted January 2, 2022 I always apply a gloss coat before weathering with oils. I tend to do either dot filters or an overall wash. Klear will be fine, i use white spirits to thin oils. I did switch to Alclad Aqua gloss a few years back as i find Klear goes on thick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade H Posted January 24, 2022 Share Posted January 24, 2022 On 02/01/2022 at 22:14, Bertie Psmith said: Matt surfaces are worse as the oils won't move at all This definitely isn't and shouldn't be the case, Bertie. If you've had trouble manipulating and blending them, I'm not sure why. OPR is done over matte/flat paints; similarly, oils on figures normally go over matte paints. It's normally the case that there isn't enough tooth without matte; rather than too much with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bertie McBoatface Posted January 25, 2022 Share Posted January 25, 2022 10 hours ago, Ade H said: This definitely isn't and shouldn't be the case, Bertie. If you've had trouble manipulating and blending them, I'm not sure why. OPR is done over matte/flat paints; similarly, oils on figures normally go over matte paints. It's normally the case that there isn't enough tooth without matte; rather than too much with it. As I said, this has been my experience but I've not been an oil user for long so I'm sure you are right Ade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxwellbest Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 Hmmm, interesting thread was going to raise this subject. I have Tamiya Black Line Accent, am close to completing my first two Armor kits both Tamiya, 1/35 Panther and King Tiger, both painted with Tamiya Flat acrylic...from what I can make out, pin wash straight over the top with Tamiya Line accent over the flat acrylic is pretty much a no no...? Or have I read this wrong...forgive my newbie ness... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade H Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 (edited) The OP was after trying pin washes made with oils, which have a lot more flow than enamel wash products, so they are more tolerant of surface finish; bear that in mind. Later, we got on to discussing manipulating oils in OPR, which has very different requirements. Tamiya XFs seem to be very matte, the most matte paints which I've used apart from ultra-matte varnishes, and one of the reasons why I stopped using them. So bear in mind that difference to other paints. Also, it's an idea to decide whether a pin wash is appropriate to the subject (see above) and, if so, worth doing all over or only where you intend it to show up. I long ago stopped doing them because they are quite a lot of work for what ends up being an unnaturally uniform and monochromatic effect, much of which can disappear under dust washes, pigment mixes, and OPR. All of these questions can ultimately be resolved for each modeller by testing and experimentation, which is time (and a modest outlay for some paint mules) very well spent. Edited February 8, 2022 by Ade H Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullbasket Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 10 hours ago, maxwellbest said: Hmmm, interesting thread was going to raise this subject. I have Tamiya Black Line Accent, am close to completing my first two Armor kits both Tamiya, 1/35 Panther and King Tiger, both painted with Tamiya Flat acrylic...from what I can make out, pin wash straight over the top with Tamiya Line accent over the flat acrylic is pretty much a no no...? Or have I read this wrong...forgive my newbie ness... I use Tamiya paints for most of my models. If I want to apply an overall wash or a pin wash, I would first apply a coat of gloss varnish. This is because the matt surface acts like a sponge and allows the wash to spread over a wider area. What you end up with is a filter and not a wash. A filter is used to alter the tone/shade of the colour, which is not what you want from a wash. The same applies to using the oil dot method. The matt paint tends to suck the oil out out the oil paint and spread it. Therefore, gloss varnish is your friend. John. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ade H Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 Does anyone still use oil dots these days? I hated that style. Very "SMMI" magazine. 😀 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxwellbest Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 Great answers..thanks for your timely responses.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullbasket Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 18 hours ago, Ade H said: Does anyone still use oil dots these days? I hated that style. Very "SMMI" magazine. 😀 Yes, many. I use it for large flat surfaces. John. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longbow Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 I use one oil paint exclusively, which I'm not at my desk to check on, at this monument, but I'm pretty sure it's burnt umber. By varying the liquid consistency, and opacity, I can attain a lot of effects. I'm not sure if any one else here uses such a limited pallet for washes, mud, grime, etc. I stay away from black, as I find black to be too stark/dark. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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