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PK-652 : North American FJ-4B Fury 1/48


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edf80357-041b-4c82-bffa-66474a002cd1.jpeSide consoles. The aim is to improved in the kit interior, but it won’t exactly br super detailed.

 

6964cee7-e30d-4117-b73a-cc3fc03afa0e.jpeLots of lead.


resized_bc46b2e9-002f-484a-8f30-4d475771
 

resized_13d4d26f-3ede-4d44-8084-1b8fd42dA bit more detailing.

 

1e67c051-16dc-43fc-a5da-10cfb04d3b07.jpe

 

resized_96325bec-e98d-4a2f-b4a7-a1cbc4c9
Fuselage being beaten into submission.

 
The interior will need a bit of detail painting and of course a stick and an ejection seat, but they can wait. Next step will be assembly of the sub components and the rescribing …

 

 

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resized_380d449b-b120-4055-9db4-f20449e5


resized_306c4edd-3376-4a93-b28f-03047c44

molded the refuelling tanks.

 

resized_de37df30-c16e-4aef-895c-cf028296
And started cleaning up the joints. Now a minor dilemma; for shelf space considerations I’m thinking of having the wings folded, but as molded on the kit the detail is nonexistent, now the fold mechanism would be extremely difficult to scratch and tbh unless you’re leaning down eyeballing it the detail isn’t really all that obvious, so I’m going to leave the outer wing segments loose, see if I can bodge up a semi realistic fold  mechanism and if it looks awful just stick the wings on extended.

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resized_d6a87117-254e-4f61-a08e-d18733dcA coat of rattle can grey on the assembly to check the joints and to ensure I’ve sanded off all the raised lines, it will also give me a better surface to scribe into. Still a bit tacky so I’ll let it dry for a bit more before commencing the scribing, probably my least favourite modelling task…

Edited by Marklo
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You don't need aftermarket as your cockpit looks pretty decent and miles ahead of what's in the box. You top trump me with vac-forming though.

 

Scribing is not my favourite thing on aircraft but AFVs and similar no worries... Good luck Sir I salute you. Looks like I need more filler too.

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46 minutes ago, SleeperService said:

Looks like I need more filler too.

Actually the fit was pretty good and I think most of the filling was self inflicted, by not fettling the ip down enough. 
 

resized_f097074b-a8f2-4941-ae04-52a60c94My weapons of choice madworks carving guide tape and a steel tipped scribe I also use an RBtools scribe -R and I have a rivet-r hidden away somewhere. Mind as most of my builds are vintage aircraft I normally only have the odd aileron to do.

Edited by Marklo
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44fee5f6-6a77-4464-8789-92b72b675d28.jpeNoticed this on a decal sheet from an ESCI F100 ( bought for the Century fighters GB) that I have set out to bleach back to clear on my windowsill. Might make a copy and use it for the main ip on the fury. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/6/2022 at 11:05 PM, SleeperService said:

What are you using for reference when scribing?

I have scale drawings from blueprints. Hopefully reasonably correct :)

Edited by Marklo
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resized_c6e78eaa-b1d6-4cfe-bd88-ef26f3aeAfter scribing, some assembly and a bit of paintwork. White from a rattle can followed by clear varnish from same. Needs a tiny bit of filling and cleanup but nearly ready for the gull  grey coat.

Edited by Marklo
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95263-A00-5527-473-B-AD54-E3388-B70270-C
Working on the artwork for the decals ( and for the sage as well) Just need to scale the letters then duplicate and print on clear decal film. Starting to love Amadine app.  
 

Google fonts Aldrich used for the fury and Enriqueta medium for the sage.
 

Edited by Marklo
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0-EDFC46-E-F794-42-EB-B47-D-ED95-C790-C6Masked up for hull grey


168-FB60-E-24-D9-4956-80-FA-17-A6-E4545-Unmasked but quite a bit of the white chipped. Nothing else for it I’m going to have to sand it back and repaint :( a pity as the grey was pretty good. 

 

Also, anyone else finding it hard to keep the undercarriage stuck on? I can see myself having to drill the various oleos and pin them with brass rod :( very frustrating.

 

Edited by Marklo
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I feel your pain with the undercarriage, I've found the line between a good join and dissolved goop is quite narrow. 

For the white just flat it back with fine paper used wet, very wet. Once the chips are smoothed and the whole surface matt start again but only varnish when the colours are all applied. If possible I always remove masking as soon as the paint is surface dry but still flexible, very rare to get any lift. Wet paper towel in the cockpit will prevent any overspray getting inside the glass.

It's coming together well nice work. 

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Just a matter of 'recovery' Marklo, we've all been there when things go pear shaped so nothing to worry about. There's still plenty of time left so just take your time and it will all sort itself out. For the record, I hate spraying white too! 

Cheers.. Dave 

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6 hours ago, Rabbit Leader said:

Just a matter of 'recovery' Marklo, we've all been there when things go pear shaped so nothing to worry about. There's still plenty of time left so just take your time and it will all sort itself out. For the record, I hate spraying white too! 

Cheers.. Dave 

In that you're with the vast majority of spray painters world wide. Following a dark blue or red in a car assembly plant often resulted in some strange pastel effects.

Glad to hear that you've won this battle Marklo. Onwards and upwards.

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Back to gull grey. I’m going to spray grey then white then Dayglo red this time our.

 

 

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After a little post shading. I’ve also attached the pylons including the new ones for the refuelling tanks.

 

Edited by Marklo
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BD374155-134-A-4-CE4-A94-B-D4-C2-F032-FATanks sprayed white.

 

19945364-2213-489-C-8214-586-D9-D5-A162-Fury sprayed white (thank heavens, that felt like hard work :) )


5522-DDCD-6-F1-D-4-EC5-B042-E0-F75-BCFF1After trying the Humbrol Dayglo I’ve decided to give the red areas a coat of flat red. 
 

EF30-E71-C-8-D38-45-AA-BC6-B-975-E2932-EAfter some very careful brush painting, I’ll give it a few more coats then rub it down with some very high grade polishing papers, then give it a coat of the humbrol Dayglo.

 

 

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B1-D601-BF-7-CAC-4-B94-8477-5567225-F9-BA coat of red over the flat red this time. Of course I now realise the horizontal tail should be red and white, but I’ll get to that once the Dayglo is done and well  dry.

Edited by Marklo
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