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PK-306: M.G. TC Sports


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Morning all.  My only entry in the Group Build will be this MG TC.

 

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With the end of the Second World War, MG were keen to restart car production and they did this with the TC.  It was a mild update of the pre-war TB, with improvements to the engine and suspension IIRC.  The TC was produced from 1945 to 1949, when it was replaced by the TD.

 

Despite its relatively old design the TC was a sales success both in the UK and abroad, bringing in much needed foreign currency (the post-war call was "export or die" - which I guess is still very much applicable today ;)).  It was a particular success in the US, apparently helped by returning service personnel who had fallen in love with MGs while stationed in the UK.

 

The kit is relatively simple and of course the parts are multi-coloured (including a chromed sprue).  My second-hand example is missing it's clear sprue, but that should not be a problem.

 

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The weak spot of the kit is likely to be the wheel spokes, which are simplified and overscale.  I've only built one Matchbox car kit before, which was this Rolls Rolls Phantom.

 

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Painted black, the Phantom's wheel spokes don't look too bad because you can't see the thickness behind them.  I'm not sure how good they'll look when chromed though?

I've noticed that a few real life preserved MG TCs have moved to painted spokes, so I may have that option available if necessary.

 

I'm looking forward to making a start in a couple of weeks time...

 

Cheers

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No prizes for guessing how keen I am to see you build this one Cliff

:partytime:

The original TCs all came with grey / silver painted wheels, with a chrome knock off spinner in the middle.

Early TCs had a wooden dashboard later ones, vinyl to match the interior colour.

Best of luck with this one.

 

Cheers Pat

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Once upon a time we had about 8 MG TC* in my vintage car club. Over half were original, non-restored. All the cars had wheels painted the same colour as the body work. Dashboards were either varnished dark wood or machined aluminium. Instrument bezels were mostly MG-Hexagon shape, a few had some MG instruments in brass circular bezels

I hope to be building one of these as well and I'll be doing it in the mid-shade of blue of one of my club members cars

 

*my club members go through phases; once it was Austin 7s, then MGs T-and P- types, then Type 13 Bugatti. . . . 

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Great to see you on here Cliff with no doubt what will be a popular build. I’m keen to follow your progress as well all the technical and other natured commentary which will also follow. Painting those wheel spokes will certainly improve the overall effect as you have masterly displayed with that exceptionally well built Roller. 

 

Cheers, welcome aboard and best of luck.. Dave 

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Great link Cliff.

This is an early car so the bulkhead inside the engine bay was grey primer, post war paint shortages I believe !

All the others had the bulkhead spray the same colour as the rest of the car.

Best of luck.

Cheers Pat

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On 12/27/2021 at 10:35 AM, JOCKNEY said:

This is an early car so the bulkhead inside the engine bay was grey primer, post war paint shortages I believe !

 

Thanks for the insight Pat :thumbsup2:.  Do you have any thoughts on the engine colour?  My example has a metallic coloured block, whereas I believe others were crimson?

 

Cheers

Cliff

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1 hour ago, CliffB said:

 

Thanks for the insight Pat :thumbsup2:.  Do you have any thoughts on the engine colour?  My example has a metallic coloured block, whereas I believe others were crimson?

 

Cheers

Cliff

 

Hi Cliff

Engine blocks were a dark maroon colour, apart from the rocker cover box, although you could have a cast aluminium ones as an optional extra I believe. 

This link shows some good detail 

https://classicthrottleshop.com/1949-mg-tc-red/

Cheers Pat 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thankfully, I've managed to put some time in on the MG - it's always nice to start the first build of a new year :thumbsup:

So far, I've been prepping and sticking together some of the major components.

There's been no flash, just some fine mould seams to scrape away.  There have also been a few ejector pin and shrinkage marks although, apart from the ones on the inside of the doors, you'll have to go out of your way to see them when the model's assembled.

 

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A quick balancing act suggests that the parts should fit together OK .  Here they are looking good in red and tan :winkgrin:.

 

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Cheers

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What did you use to get the chrome off with Cliff?

I want to strip mine as it looks really heavy and thick

I know some chromes react differently to others, I was going to try bleach

 

Ian :) 

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51 minutes ago, Redstaff said:

What did you use to get the chrome off with Cliff?

I want to strip mine as it looks really heavy and thick

I know some chromes react differently to others, I was going to try bleach

 

Ian :) 

 

Hi Ian.  I used Lakeland 'Oven Mate' which is an oven cleaning gel.  It happens to be the one which my wife buys, so that's the one that I use.  The active ingredient is 10-30% Potassium Hydroxide (like caustic soda), which I think many oven cleaners use.  It takes the chrome off within seconds, with no need to scrub.  It also works brilliantly on old enamel paint.

 

Cheers

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I’m liking that very much. Almost tempted to fly to Bonny Scotland and sit in a 1:1 scale one. Do you think Pat makes Brrrm Brrm noises when he tinkers away at it? 

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6 minutes ago, Rabbit Leader said:

 Do you think Pat makes Brrrm Brrm noises when he tinkers away at it? 

 

I'm thinking he might use stronger language at times...

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Cheers Cliff :) 

I'll see what oven cleaner we have under the sink when I get in, seem to think it's Mr Muscle, but it should be similar :) 

 

Ian :) 

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38 minutes ago, Redstaff said:

I'll see what oven cleaner we have under the sink when I get in, seem to think it's Mr Muscle, but it should be similar :) 

 

That sounds like a plan Ian :thumbsup2:

 

Is it happens, I'm working on the wheels at the moment and it's reminded me that whilst the chrome will strip off OK, you will be left with a clear (actually slightly yellow), glossy lacquer on the plastic.  This is a base coat used in Matchbox's chroming process.  You can paint onto the lacquer OK (I've just sprayed some Alclad), but it is resistant to poly glues so you will need to lightly sand any surfaces that you're cementing together.  I suspect that this will be the same, regardless of what chemical you use to strip the chrome.

 

I should also add that my MG is a 'made in China' kit, unlike your original British version, so the chroming may not be identical.  Having said that, I've used oven cleaners  on various makes of kit over the years and they've always worked OK :).

 

Cheers

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 Nice. I'll  have to follow along as I have one part way through but am lost as to where some of the parts go due to not having the instruction sheet.

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3 minutes ago, Paul J said:

 Nice. I'll  have to follow along as I have one part way through but am lost as to where some of the parts go due to not having the instruction sheet.

 

No problem Paul.  Please PM me your email address and I'll gladly send you a scan of the instructions.

 

Cheers

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45 minutes ago, CliffB said:

 

That sounds like a plan Ian :thumbsup2:

 

Is it happens, I'm working on the wheels at the moment and it's reminded me that whilst the chrome will strip off OK, you will be left with a clear (actually slightly yellow), glossy lacquer on the plastic.  This is a base coat used in Matchbox's chroming process.  You can paint onto the lacquer OK (I've just sprayed some Alclad), but it is resistant to poly glues so you will need to lightly sand any surfaces that you're cementing together.  I suspect that this will be the same, regardless of what chemical you use to strip the chrome.

 

I should also add that my MG is a 'made in China' kit, unlike your original British version, so the chroming may not be identical.  Having said that, I've used oven cleaners  on various makes of kit over the years and they've always worked OK :).

 

Cheers

 

Further to that, I sometimes follow up the oven cleaner with a soak in IPA (isopropyl alcohol, not the beer).  Sometimes the clear lacquer is thickly applied and obscures detail, so in those cases I try to remove it all.

 

Nice to see one of these being built. I wish this series could be reissued.

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2 minutes ago, Six97s said:

Further to that, I sometimes follow up the oven cleaner with a soak in IPA (isopropyl alcohol, not the beer).  Sometimes the clear lacquer is thickly applied and obscures detail, so in those cases I try to remove it all.

 

That's excellent advice :thumbsup2:

 

Cheers

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Cheers Cliff

I think I'll go home and have a play with bits of the chrome runners and try oven cleaner and bleach and see which works on the older chrome then

Great tip about the IPA as well, I've got some of that as well to soak in once I've got rid of the chrome :) 

 

Ian :) 

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