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Royal Aircraft Factory BE 2a


pheonix

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Evening All,

 

I intend to represent one half of each wing as if it were covered in fabric and the other half to show the structure: the lower wing will be covered on the port (left) side and uncovered on the starboard (right) and the reverse will apply to the upper wing. Hopefully that will distribute the weight of the model more evenly. I have already shown some wing blanks as prepared from the moulds, but here are a pair of blanks after they have been removed from the plastic sheet and are ready to be assembled:

 

52073302826_1edda18188_c.jpg

 

They are for the upper wing as they represent the starboard side, but the lower port wing half is very similar. I started assembly of the port wing by  drilling holes for the struts and rigging wires in the top face. Thread was passed through the rigging holes and secured with small squares of scrap plastic. The spars were CAed to the top wing surface and the edges of the wing packed as necessary with scrap strip and card. The latter made a better joint surface between the upper and lower wing sections and helped fill gaps caused by trying to marry two moulds together. Experience gained using this method of construction has taught me that filler will be needed in these areas:

 

52073784535_1fb1782d76_c.jpg

 

After the two wing moulds had been joined, using copious amounts of tube and liquid glue, and this had been left overnight to harden, I applied large quantities of filler:

 

52073530509_5d6e43ae51_c.jpg

 

At this stage the whole structure looks a mess - indeed it was a mess, but patient filing and sanding, and more filling and sanding eventually resulted in a wing surface which when painted will be quite acceptable:

 

52073304163_d807461b65_c.jpg

 

The upper surface ribs were applied by using 10 x 20 thou Evergreen strip which was allowed to dry thoroughly and the sanded to thin it. Mr Surfacer 500 was applied first to the edges of the strips, followed by 1000 grade to eliminate any small undulations and provide a smooth surface for priming.

 

52073784080_8c9edc5ceb_c.jpg

 

The plastic bag which conceals the fuselage and spars of the starboard part of the lower wing is not there to hide mistakes or horrors of the model: it is there because later I will have to paint the new wing. Following the painting I will have much work to do on and in the fuselage, including painting the fuselage frame, and on the exposed wing structure, and I wish to be able to protect the newly painted wing.

 

Next I will make both sides of the upper wing before I proceed any further with the existing structure.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

P

 

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  • 2 months later...

Evening All,

After a long delay in which I have made three unsuccessful attempts to mould an upper wing section I decided to change tack and start on another part of the model. I have painted the lower wing half in a mixture of Revell acrylics: beige and white. Lots of very thin coats to build up the paint and get a smooth finish. The rigging wires can also be seen - I had to paint around them:

52254742644_9b09ed6330_c.jpg

The plastic bag was to protect the fuselage frame while I painted the wing but now it is protecting the wing while I paint and work on the fuselage frame. The frame was first primed with Halfords' rattle can white and then painted in Revell acrylics - a mixture of Okre, Braun and just a small amount of red to give a reddish hue to the wood. Rigging of the frame followed:

52254251288_d335c61522_c.jpg

 

52253262417_c6299e1009_c.jpg

I am experimenting with materials with this model so I decided to use real wood for the upper and lower fuselage surfaces as they were wood on the original machines. I used some laminate from a pack of assorted wood and I do not know from which species of tree the wood was taken, but after it had been given a coat of varnish it looked fine to me. I have cut an upper and lower decking:

52254230336_f6eddef99b_c.jpg

The lower decking has been super-glued into place:

52254250373_f932303a7f_c.jpg

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The next stage will be to add the cockpit details: seats, fuel tank under the observer seat and flying controls and wires before I add the upper decking. This sequence should allow me access to the fuselage so that I can insert the small parts - on the completed model I intend to leave the fuselage sides open.

Thanks for looking.

 

P

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19 hours ago, pheonix said:

so I decided to use real wood for the upper and lower fuselage surfaces as they were wood on the original machines.

A very wise decision! :like:

I really like what you are doing here.

 

Cheers,

Frank

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  • 3 months later...

Evening All

 

Many thanks Adrian, Ian and Frank for following along. I am sorry that it has been so long since I last posted but as explained elsewhere on this site I have been suffering form a minor medical condition which has made modelling difficult, and I have had a loss of mojo. However things have improved lately and the mojo is returning, so here is the latest on progress.

 

The BE 2 was a two seat reconnaissance machine, so two wicker seats were needed. I have tried scratch building them but decided that life is too short when there is a high quality option available: step in Barracuda with their resin seats. Some may argue that the Baraccuda pattern is wrong, (wicker seats varied considerably), but photos do not show the real things in any detail so I have gone with these:

 

52473262150_b3040078b1_5k.jpg

 

The seats were mounted on frames and the frames held with wires which were fixed to corners of the fuselage frame. I made the wood frames for the seats with 10 x 20 thou plastic strip and the lap belts from paper. The belts are based on photos of originals which were posted on Britmodeller some years ago.

 

Other interior details include the control column and rudder bar. The former was made from plastic rod, the latter from scrap plastic. Both have been rigged with EZ line to represent the control wires which will extend to the rudder and elevators later:

 

52473084284_ef8d1a4f3a_5k.jpg

 

The lower wing which has the structure exposed has had the centre spar added. This was made up from 40 x 60 thou Evergreen strip with small holes made at the points were they join the ribs and where a rigging wire will pass later:

 

52473349793_ce34e46066_5k.jpg

 

This is still not ready for paint because I still need to add the leading and trailing edge parts and the leading edge strengthening ribs, but I am avoiding them at the moment as they will only get damaged while I handle the model to add other parts.

I have at last got the top wing sandwich sorted out. I moulded the upper and lower parts successfully, drilled the lower half and added the rigging wires, and joined the two parts:

 

52472306367_3bbdb3439d_5k.jpg

 

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Note the advanced clamps used to hold things while they dried out. The joint was as usual best described as an ugly mess, but filing and sanding and the use of card filler and putty soon sorted out those problems on the underside.

The ribs are 10 x 30 thou Evergreen strip with a liberal coating of Surfacer 500. I have not sanded the ribs down yet - probably two or three sessions will be needed with an application of Surfacer between each coat, followed by a Surfacer 1000 to finish them off. At least this part is now well on the way to completion at last. (The clip is holding rigging wires):

 

52472801821_a18d9300cf_5k.jpg

 

I have decided to make the wooden parts of the fuselage from wood for two reasons: first I am a hopeless artist and painting plastic to look like wood is not at all easy for me. Secondly the most realistic wood effect is obtained by using real wood. I have already shown the lower fuselage surface in place: I cut a second piece for the upper decking. The cockpit curvature was cut out with a craft knife and finshed with a round file and glasspaper wrapped around a piece of dowel. The fuselage immediately behind the pilot was raised and consisted of a piece of curved wood which was supported by small triangular braces. I cut the vertical face from the same marquetry wood as the fuselage panels, and shaped the top with a craft knife and sanded it smooth. I carefully curved it to fit the shape of the cockpit opening: this was a delicate operation as the wood is so thin it would easily break, so I superglued one end of the curve to the top of the fuselage panel. When this had set I glued a short length to the panel, gently bending the wood as I did so, and held it in place while the glue set. I repeated this operation several times until I had worked my way around the rear of the cockpit opening. Finally I cut the three triangular braces and superglued them into place. The image shows the finished part - the panel is resting on the fuselage frame at the moment as I still have to add the controls and other internal details:

 

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The other part which I have made from wood was the decking between the pilot and observer's cockpits. On the original this was made from plywood which had been steamed and bent to shape, and has a marked forward slope. The curve of the decking was such that I could not bend the marquetry wood unaided, so I resorted to steaming it too. I have never used the steam bending method before, but a quick search on the net provided me with useful tutorial videos and I worked out a method. I made a mould from basswood in the same way as i would have done to make a part from plastic. This had a sufficiently large curve to allow the wood to be bent over it without breaking. A piece of wood which was larger than the final piece was cut and bent over the mould and held in place with a simple clamp and wood buffers:

 

52473083614_9f88416063_5k.jpg

 

52473083909_995356cb18_5k.jpg

 

Steaming the wood was achieved by holding the sample over the mouth of a steaming kettle and the kettle kept boiling for about 15 seconds. The sample was allowed to cool and released to produce a nicely shaped piece of wood:

 

52473348708_22e400ab4d_5k.jpg

 

from which I was able to cut the required size and shape for the model:

 

52472306612_7c366f08c0_5k.jpg

 

The instrument board will fit inside the wood panel and help to strengthen it when it is fixed to the fuselage frame.

 

The next step will be to finish the upper wing including adding the ribs and centre spar. After that I need to have a long think about what to do next as the model is going to become rather delicate to handle.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

P

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To bend wood with the help of steam is a very useful method. I used that also multiple times, for example to create a back rest of a wooden seat in 1/48.

Some kinds of woods do not like steam, some respond very nicely. Some tries with the used veneer are always helpful.

 

Cheers,

Frank

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Many thanks for the very kind comments - I really appreciate them all.

 

This one is taking much longer than anticipated for a number of reasons, but I do seem to have recovered some mojo recently and am less pressed for time, so I am hoping that I will be able to post a little more frequently in future.

 

P

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  • 2 weeks later...

Evening All,

 

I have been working on some of the smaller parts while waiting for larger parts to dry/set and one of these was the instrument board. Early aircraft had very few instruments (some had only a clock, fuel gauge and compass): the BE 2 was not an exception. It had an Elliot board: one pattern for RFC machines and a different one for RNAS machines. I intend to represent a machine from the RNAS based at Eastchurch on Sheppy in Kent so I have modelled the Elliot board Mk 1 which had three instrument dials between an air speed indicator and an ascent/descent guage. Above the board were two smaller dials. I could not find any transfers which even remotely represented the dials on the board, or were small enough so a blob of paint and some bezels form Eduard have to suffice. Next to the instrument board is a map board:

 

52519726705_c98c5d446d_5k.jpg

 

This is not the best instrument board/panel that I have made but as it will be largely hidden under the fuselage cover and as I want to live to do something else, this will have to suffice.

 

Another set of parts which can be tedious to make are the struts. I am making them from laminated marquetry wood and will varnish them, so to save my shoulder  I have made a few in between other tasks; the remainder including the undercarriage legs and skids, will follow later:

 

52519726545_7f1d96edd4_5k.jpg

 

With the solid part of the upper wing sanded and ready to paint I added a strip of 20 thou card to the opening in the centre to represent the rib:

 

52518774242_5b1ded9ee1_5k.jpg

 

That was shaped and filled prior to adding the remaining ribs to the spars. Then the fun began because the wings had two solid spars front and rear, and a centre spar which was full of holes. Cue cutting short lengths of 40 thou plastic card, drilling lots of holes and then inserting said pieces of drilled plastic between the ribs.... I found that I could make two or at most three of these per session before the will to live nearly expired. However they are now done!

 

52519247351_edda748e21_5k.jpg

 

To finish the construction of the top wing I used 30 thou rod for the leading edge and 20 thou rod for the trailing edge:

 

52519524284_1c5501531e_5k.jpg

 

and looking at the photo I can see that I have got to adjust some of the centre spar sections to make them line up more accurately.....grrrr.

 

However the span of the upper uncovered wing half matches the covered lower wing half on the same side of the model. I have also checked that the strut holes in the covered parts of the wings align accurately with the exposed spars on the opposing wing: at least I have managed to get that right! Now the struts should line up vertically from the sides and front as per the original machines.

 

52519797318_34791c8653_5k.jpg

 

This project seemed to be badly stalled but it is truly under way again: making the Albatros at the same time has really helped restore my mojo. Must remember that in future ..... keep to God's Own Scale and all is (usually) well.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

P

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The more I look at this thread the more amazed I am by your patience, skill and planning. After cutting a mere 12 very simple ribs this weekend I have an even greater respect (sympathy too!) for you cutting out the wing ribs with all their detailing to display a partially covered machine. 👏👏👏

 

Richie

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  • 1 month later...

Evening All

 

A belated thanks Stuart, Chris and Richie for your kind comments.

 

Now that the Albatros is finished I have been turning my attention to the BE 2a again. I intend to show part of the structure of the aircraft so I have bought a set of wire wheels from Gaspatch, but I will also need a covered wheel disc for one side of the model. I made the disc from laminated card: first scribe the outline of the disc on to the card:

 

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The cross marks the centre of the circle of the disc and was used to place one leg of the dividers which I used for scribing. The I cut away the edges of the card to get as close to the scribed circle as practical:

 

52632896153_ff0fcac068_5k.jpg

 

and filing completed the job.

 

The fabric covered part of the horizontal tail surfaces were made from 30 thou card which had been filed to shape and ribs added and sanded as described for the wings. The exposed half of the surfaces were made from 25 thou rod and 20 x 30 thou card. The rod was bent and held in place over a plan using pins and a block of balsa wood as a base:

 

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Liquid cement holds everything together. The exposed elevator was constructed in the same way:

 

52632413471_9a80660951_5k.jpg

 

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The upper wing which is represented as fabric covered was painted with my usual mix of thinned white and Revell beige(314) acrylics and as per usual took many coats before I achieved a good finish. The fabric covered parts of the tail surfaces and wheel disc were painted at the same time. Painting the wood parts of the exposed wings and tail structures was a little more difficult because I could not match very well the colour that I had mixed for the fuselage frame. (Note to myself: write down the ratios of colours used next time!) Eventually I found something close to the original:

 

52632895568_fe407f0dcb_5k.jpg

 

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The wire frame of the tail surfaces will be painted black later, as will the frame and ribs of the rudder.

 

The rudder was cut from 20 thou card and the ribs on one side added as described above, only this time I used 10 x 20 strip for the ribs on the fabric covered side. I painted the aircraft number in black on both sides of the rudder, but reversed the number on the side which will represent the uncovered portion on the finished model. I carefully brushed 4 thin coats of paint over the revered numerals to give the impression of looking through fabric to see the number.

 

52632667999_ccfaf4ba39_5k.jpg

 

Finally I added the internal rigging for the wings and was pleased to be able to secure two threads on the top wing which have benn dangling and causing frustration for a while now:

 

52632853565_38321fae19_5k.jpg

 

Now at last I can return to construction and start to add some of the fuselage internal details and clear away some parts which have been stored in a box to keep them safe from accidental damage. More later.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

P

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9 hours ago, pheonix said:

Thanks for looking.

Thanks for posting! I especially love the way you have tackled the aircraft number. Lots of wonderful old school modelling skills to admire in this update. I very much look forward to seeing the internal details added. 

 

Richie

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  • 3 weeks later...

Evening All,

 

Thanks you Ian and Richie for the very kind comments - they are much appreciated.

 

Recently I have been working on the fuselage innards and engine - all fiddly and time consuming but not particularly difficult, but I hope the results will be worth looking at. I will describe in detail what I have done so that readers will see that most steps were relatively simple.

 

The controls and cables were the first items to add to the fuselage. I started with the rudder bar and the control cables which run the length of the fuselage: the cables are EZ line and were threaded through the rudder bar. View from front:

 

52667729015_89c9ddf500_5k.jpg

 

and rear:

 

52667796153_7377c8b73b_k.jpg

 

Next in was the control column and rod actuator:

 

52667796118_593b9f31a7_k.jpg

 

The elevator cables run rearwards from the cockpit: at the front end of the actuator rod there is a rounded piece - that was a mechanism which pulled on the wing wires which caused the outer trailing edges of the wings to flex as ailerons were not fitted to these early machines. Later I will add two springs, one on each side of the control column: they were to help the pilot keep the control column upright in level flight. The pilot's seat was next. I had added the lap belts and had glued the seat to a wooden frame (made from plastic strip). The seat frame was suspended by wires to the corners of the fuselage uprights and longerons:

 

52667581684_8be2bb5d2b_k.jpg

 

52667796048_aaef501ff5_k.jpg

 

The wires on the model are part EZ line and part monofilament thread. The observer sat over the main fuel tank and had a board to rest his feet on: the latter was made from wood and CA'd into place first, followed by the fuel tank:

 

52667581604_bc6375141f_k.jpg

 

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The observer's seat followed and this too was suspended by wires. In this case I simply glued the seat frame to the top of the fuel tank and used monofilament thread for the support wires:

 

52667714720_1b254f7143_k.jpg

 

The fuel pipe and throttle control from the pilot's cockpit were made from thin rod and wire respectively. These were bent to shape and fixed to the carburetor which was located on the cross member just behind the engine:

 

52666783332_b8b9b6fc51_k.jpg

 

I took some time deciding the order of construction for these sub-assemblies and considered that completing the engine would be a sensible next stage. First I drilled lots of holes into the cylinders to take the additional details, and then added the engine back plate (with holes for the inlet pipes from the carburetor), and spark plugs:

 

52667277021_7abcba2245_k.jpg

 

I put in the inlet pipes after I had painted them but forgot to take a photo of that stage. The ignition wires from the magneto to the spark plugs were made from thin copper wire. The exhaust valve gear was very prominent on these engines so I had to make up some valve springs. I tried using what I thought was thin copper wire but when I tried them on the model I decided that they were out of scale so I made some more from 44 SWG wire. The difference in size of the two attempts can be seen here:

 

52667567419_d70c2bfd23_k.jpg

 

The springs were made by twisting the copper wire around a thin guitar string and cutting the guitar wire slightly longer than the spring: this left a short pice to CA into the top of the engine cylinder. The wire of the spring was trimmed with a knife before I added the springs to the model. The tappets were cut from guitar wire and CA'd on to the sides of the cylinder tops, and the rocker post and arm were cut from rod and cemented in place. The results were not quite as tidy as I had wished, but they pass the one foot rule so that is good enough. Finally I added the exhaust outlet pipes to the heads of the cylinders and the larger horizontal pipes to the outlets:

 

52666783212_7d7b10a95e_k.jpg

 

Apart from some touching in of the inlet pipes at the rear of the engine, and adding the flywheel this sub-assembly is now ready to be fixed to the model. However I have decided that it will certainly be damaged if not knocked off completely while I continue with construction of the fuselage and upper wing, so the engine has been put on one side for the time being:

 

52667714560_3b54cab3cd_k.jpg[

 

52667781983_1afcad6edd_k.jpg

 

Now I will start working on adding the fuselage upper decking and horizontal tail unit and completing the control wires to the rear.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

P.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Evening All,

 

Progress is slow but I am nearly ready to start detailed planning for mounting the top wing. In the meantime more details have been added to the fuselage frame.

 

The fuselage was made of a conventional (for the time), wire braced box structure so I have had to add the rigging to the sides as this will be very visible:

 

52710905431_7942f62d1c_k.jpg

 

There were longerons along the cockpit sides - these were added from 20 x 30 thou plastic strip after the rigging was complete. The rear fuselage side bays were wood covered - small pieces of marquetry were cut and CA'd in place to represent the wood:

 

52711322495_abdecf9e38_k.jpg

 

52711165564_cb255179c8_k.jpg

 

When I was rigging the sides I found that I had somehow managed to tangle the control cables in the rear fuselage which meant drawing one of the elevator threads out of its brass ferrule, untangling it and re-inserting. Later I had to adjust the lower elevator cables: much interesting language was used to help relieve stress during those protracted operations......

 

The undercarriage skids were made from two narrow strips of marquetry wood with a third short strip at the rear end. These were allowed to dry overnight and then sanded and filed to shape:

 

52711390560_a9e8a47e14_k.jpg

 

Sometimes it is nice to make a simple and quick piece and have something to show for the effort in a short time.

 

I have placed the engine on the nose just to see what it will look like when the model is finished and to help get the correct dimensions for the various pieces of the exhaust system:

 

52711383838_1f1659b237_k.jpg

 

52711322405_742e55385c_k.jpg

 

Next I will mount the upper fuselage decking betweeen the pilot and observer and drill the slots for the cabane struts. Hopefully the model will then be ready to take on the upper wing.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

P.

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Can’t believe I missed this. Some s as maxing work. Nice to see a Quirk ( thus were they nicknamed) getting built in larger scales and a definite gap in my collection, hmm I do have a nice 1/48 Be12 in the stash hmm.

Edited by Marklo
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Evening All,

 

Tanks Mark for the kind comment - I hope you will be able to follow the rest of the build.

 

I wanted to drill the upper fuselage decking so that I could insert the cabane struts later, but when I started to work on the wood it split.... It had dried out since I steamed it to shape (see earlier post), and I was unsure what to do. I tried twice to cut and start to shape a new piece of wood but they split as well, so I decided to do what I had intended to do after I had originally made the piece - I put in a piece of 10 thou clear acetate and glued the two halves together. I was then able to drill the holes for the struts using a new drill bit and a fine round file. I also reduced the size of the struts where they entered the holes to keep the holes as small as possible. Two very narrow strips of wood were CA'd to the top of the fuselage frame and the decking CA'd to the wood strips and frame.

 

52727968225_f0e9ed00bf_k.jpg

 

52728031678_fd668bc4b8_k.jpg

 

  And then I realised that I had not put in the instrument board......aaaaarrrrrggggghhhh! After a lot of filing and fiddling I managed to get the board into place under the decking: it cannot be seen very clearly which is just as well as it is not quite in the correct place, but as they say in scratch building, close enough is good enough, (especially when it is partially obscured!)

 

52727029897_fedb0b0fd0_k.jpg

 

   Adding the top wing is probably the most trying part of building biplanes in any scale, and with a model as large as this one, jigs are necessary. The model also needs to be stable while fitting struts and wings, so I dug out my old jig which I had used previously for my Gunbus and D. H. 1A: a board with three nails in it. The spar on the exposed lower wing can be slotted over the nails and a third nail used to lock the leading edge of the covered wing: the model was then rigid and stable. Two card jigs were cut to support the upper wing while struts were put into place. The struts were made from two laminated sheets of marquetry wood: individual struts were cut as strips and then shaped with a file and glass paper:

 

52728380220_9d01ea9fee_5k.jpg

 

    I am using the same sheet of wood for all of the wood parts on this model which is why I was concerned about the upper decking on the fuselage: I have a relatively limited supply left and I still have to cut the fuselage frame pieces behind the pilot's cockpit.

 

   One end of the struts was drilled so that I could insert a thin wire to fit into holes drilled in the solid parts of the wings: the other end was CA'd straight on to the exposed ribs. I put the four outer struts in first to create a stable structure:

 

52727029852_e86391dd26_k.jpg

 

52727555106_f996d50abd_k.jpg

 

The inner wing struts made the structure stronger and more stable, and finally the cabanes were fixed to complete the strut work:

 

52727555091_4097aa1f9d_k.jpg

 

   There were lots of threads sticking/hanging from the wings so these were sorted out and the wing rigging and warping wires put into place and the ends trimmed. I had made life a bit easier by wherever possible attaching one end into the covered wing sections - it meant that those ends were firmly anchored and all I had to do was attach the opposite end to the relevant part of the exposed wing. The pulleys for the warping wires had already been put into place. (This aircraft, like many early types, did not have ailerons but used a technique called wing warping. The outer trailing edges of the main planes were distorted using wires attached to the control column. This meant that there was no fore-aft bracing between the wing struts and no lateral bracing in the rear outer strut bays). Having fixed the strut and control threads there still remain many drag wires hanging from the wings...but at least there are fewer loose ends than previously.

 

52727809749_8a496d6751_k.jpg

 

52727555016_92009d2279_k.jpg

 

   The horizontal tail stabilizer and bracing struts were added to the rear fuselage. This was a simple exercise in applying CA and holding in place while it set, followed by two pieces of 25 thou rod to represent the underside bracing:

 

52728031703_691acc98d1_k.jpg

 

52728031648_e0736a57c1_k.jpg

 

52727555001_ddd499f159_k.jpg

 

   The next stage will involve fixing the engine and exhaust pipes and the undercarriage.

 

   Thanks for looking.

 

P

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