HMS King George V - Tamiya 1/350

[Jerry L]

You may have to heat the copper up just a little so that it will maintain the curve of the drum.

[Boydie]

10 hours ago, Jerry L said:

You may have to heat the copper up just a little so that it will maintain the curve of the drum.

 

Thanks, was thinking similar. 👌

[Boydie]

A little bit of detail was added tonight, I was hoping to start the kit earlier today but I managed to cut my internet cable to the house, don't ask how I done it. 🙃

 

My partner works from home so the priority was to get that sorted, a trip to B&Q and Screwfix for drop in cable, a long masonry drill bit for my surprisingly thick walls and few extras bits, a few hours after cutting the cable we were back online.

 

 

I wanted to add ladders to this part of the super structure but the standard kit doesn't have this to show. So I've had to drill, cut away and file two squares so the ladders can get to the upper deck.

 

 

 

I found the PE ladders are fine with the hand railing only being two easy folds. What took me a while to figure out was unfolding the steps. I finally figured out if I held the ladder in my Tamiya PE pliers and using my thinest tweezers squeeze into the steps and turn them. Second ladder was quick to build after figuring that out. 

 

 

Easy enough to do, something I'll get quicker at too with the many other ladders to add.

 

 

 

 

 

Not much done but I do think those little details really make a difference in the long run.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ArnoldAmbrose]

1 hour ago, Boydie said:

but I do think those little details really make a difference in the long run.

Gidday Boydie, I have to agree there. Warships were/are 'busy' ships and the extra detail enhances this effect I think. Those ladders look very good. Anybody who does PE is waaay ahead of me. Keep up the good work. Regards, Jeff.

[Boydie]

7 hours ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:

Gidday Boydie, I have to agree there. Warships were/are 'busy' ships and the extra detail enhances this effect I think. Those ladders look very good. Anybody who does PE is waaay ahead of me. Keep up the good work. Regards, Jeff.

I wouldn't say that. The way you've rebuilt those turrets in your build a lot of people wouldn't even attempt it. PE you only have to fold correctly, does benefit to have a steady hand and decent eyes though. 😆

[IJNfan]

Looks very nice and clean. Nice progress. Looking forward to your painting and weathering progress. 

[Boydie]

Wondering if anyone can help me find a photograph of the area where the ships boats used to be. Now it's where the anti air armaments are. The kit detail is pretty bare as you can see and I can't find any reference photos of it in any of my books. 

 

I've got plenty photos of the aft range finders, but nothing about the area where the area of upgraded AA is.

[Faraway]

On 20/01/2022 at 23:07, Boydie said:

I finally figured out if I held the ladder in my Tamiya PE pliers and using my thinest tweezers squeeze into the steps and turn them. Second ladder was quick to build after figuring that out. 

I sometimes can’t get my tweezers between the treads, so I hold the stairs the same as you, then push the tread into position with the pointy end of my scalpel, then fine tune the position with my tweezers.

Jon

[beefy66]

6 hours ago, Boydie said:

Wondering if anyone can help me find a photograph of the area where the ships boats used to be. Now it's where the anti air armaments are.

 The Kagero top drawing books are good for this with detailed plans I used it on my build of KGV will dig it out and post a better photo tomorrow.

 

 

Stay Safe

beefy

[Boydie]

37 minutes ago, beefy66 said:

 The Kagero top drawing books are good for this with detailed plans I used it on my build of KGV will dig it out and post a better photo tomorrow.

 

 

Stay Safe

beefy

Thanks, that's a book I've been struggling to find from a reliable website to buy.

[beefy66]

A couple of the plans.

 

 

 

Stay Safe

beefy

[Boydie]

Thank you @beefy66, much appreciated.

[Boydie]

Progress today consisted of adding more detail thanks to the help of @beefy66 with the plans he posted. I bought the Eduard railing and crane set as I found the older WEM set a bit too fragile for my liking as even a light touch would bend the fine PE railing. I find the Eduard set a lot more sturdier.

 

 

 

Started adding the railing.

 

 

 

After looking over the plan I've noticed a watertight door needs to added to this part too.

 

 

Had a delivery from Hong Kong eariler this week, XY Model resin chain, think this will add a lot to the model in the end personally.

 

 

 

Thanks for looking. 

[Boydie]

Quick question, what other methods are people using when rounding PE? This is for the 20mm oerlikon tubs and similar shapes.

 

 

My attempt was fine, but it took me ages I have to admit. I annealed the PE but it took a while to roll this into a circle.

 

 

Had a problem with the PE wanting to unroll itself too, fixed that with a extra bit of glue.

 

Just wondering if anyone has a better method for this as their is a ton of them to do. 😅

 

[Faraway]

4 hours ago, Boydie said:

Had a problem with the PE wanting to unroll itself too, fixed that with a extra bit of glue.

I’m surprised that it started to unroll after you annealed it, perhaps you didn’t get it hot enough.
I heat the PE until there is a slight colour change, then allow it to cool slowly. Then roll it to size.

Then temper it by heating it once again and whilst still hot, plunge into cold water.

That should fix it shape.

Jon

4 hours ago, Boydie said:

4 hours ago, Boydie said:

[Boydie]

33 minutes ago, Faraway said:

I’m surprised that it started to unroll after you annealed it, perhaps you didn’t get it hot enough.
I heat the PE until there is a slight colour change, then allow it to cool slowly. Then roll it to size.

Then temper it by heating it once again and whilst still hot, plunge into cold water.

That should fix it shape.

Jon

 

I always wait till the colour change, but I never reheat it and put it in water, I'll give that a shot next time. This Eduard PE is quite thick too so that would help I'd imagine. Thanks!

 

Some more progress today, railing and some doors added, surprising amount of time passes when you're focused on these tiny bits of PE. 

 

 

 

Think I'll give the eyes a rest before continuing. Really enjoying the build though, my girlfriend thinks I'm mad adding all these tiny details. 🤣

 

Edited January 28, 2022 by Boydie

[S-boat 55]

Personally I just use a drill bit slightly smaller and roll it on a soft mat, never had anything try and unroll itself 

 

Your making nice progress with her, think she'll come up a treat, 

Edited January 28, 2022 by S-boat 55

[Boydie]

Had a bit of extra time so I thought I'd give my hose reel idea a shot. So obviously I've cut out the PE reel and found roughly what length of copper would be needed.

 

 

 

I've nicked this fine bit of copper coil from a old robot from my workplace. It's so small I thought I'd make use of it in my modeling. Maybe it will be good for rigging in the future too.

 

 

 

I've wrapped this coil onto a length of copper wire, I realised this would be a lot easier and faster for just cutting the length to size for other reels too.

 

 

After a good few wraps I've cut the length of wire to size to fit the hose reel.

 

 

That's one hose reel complete. Quite happy with it and to top it off I managed to get more railing done.

 

[steve5]

very nice clean work boydie ,

[beefy66]

This information might be a bit to late but the aft director and mast platform should be more of a triangular shape when I built my KGV I added some plastic strip to each of the aft sides.

 

Great PE work so far  👍

 

 

 

 

Stay Safe

beefy

[Boydie]

Thanks @beefy66, I can still add those watertight doors I didn't know were there. 👌

[robgizlu]

Loving the progress Boydie.  all very neat and ship-shape.  I think you did a fab job on the Oerlikon tubs.  Getting good circles is really hard.  I agree with all the comments above though I've stopped annealing etch, as I'm not convinced it makes a difference.  Just for info and I know it's likely too late but Micromaster do Oerlikon tubs that give you the inner "steps" - https://micromaster.co.nz/collections/royal-deck-accessories/products/1-350-royal-navy-20mm-oerlikon-tubs-zarebas-x18

FWIW for larger curves I use a socket set which provides you with (larger) curves at a variety of radii.

 

Well done on getting that XY resin chain - I can't find ANY on the net.  such a shame as it's absolutely the Bizz.

Keep it coming 

Rob

[Boydie]

4 hours ago, robgizlu said:

Loving the progress Boydie.  all very neat and ship-shape.  I think you did a fab job on the Oerlikon tubs.  Getting good circles is really hard.  I agree with all the comments above though I've stopped annealing etch, as I'm not convinced it makes a difference.  Just for info and I know it's likely too late but Micromaster do Oerlikon tubs that give you the inner "steps" - https://micromaster.co.nz/collections/royal-deck-accessories/products/1-350-royal-navy-20mm-oerlikon-tubs-zarebas-x18

FWIW for larger curvess I use a socket set which provides you with (larger) curves at a variety of radii.

 

Well done on getting that XY resin chain - I can't find ANY on the net.  such a shame as it's absolutely the Bizz.

Keep ti coming 

Rob

 

Thanks! Good idea with the socket sets, I'll need to give it a try. As for mircomaster extras, I've thought about it. But you could easily spend a small fortune on the website.

 

Like you I couldn't find the XY chain anywhere in the UK, so I searched AliExpress and it popped up, posted to the UK quickly too.

[Boydie]

It's been a wee while since I did some work on King George IV, I'm currently evicted from my man cave until the decorating of my girlfriend's work from home space/ nursery was complete. But after being let down by tradesmen this is will take more than a few weeks. So I thought I'd bash on with the model while she didn't need the room for work.

 

First thing I done was cut out the square windows I was meant to do a while back. I used my mirco hand drill to drill out four holes in each corner of the windows, then with my hobby knife I carefully cut out the window, I finished with filing the windows but I'm still not satisfied with the finish, I will cut up some fine emery paper to size for each window and finish off them off.

 

 

 

Next I moved onto the photo etch, got the portholes in place and cut off the plastic doors for PE doors.

 

 

 

Doesn't seem like much done but it did take a bit of time to do all of that.

 

 

 

One correction I think I should of noticed before is that there will be a big seam line between the upper and lower plastic parts shown in the picture above. Ideally I should have glued them together, filled and sanded the two parts till that gap was removed. I'll have to do the same now, but be careful with the PE on it 

[Brandy]

Looking very nice with all the PE. That seam is the perfect job for PPP. You don't need to sand it, just wipe it smooth with a damp cotton bud or similar. 

 

Ian