Multiple Primer (Mr Surfacer), Paint (Mr Colour Aqueous) and Varnish (Windsor and Newton) Questions

[Dunc2610]

Afternoon all, in typical fashion, I've gone all out restarting the hobby, with the intention of building a few small airfix models I've got, and then stepping up to the Eduard 'The Few' Spitfire models. 

 

Have gone for an airbrush as part of buying all the bits I need to do this, but was wondering the following: -

 

1. When using Mr Surfacer 1200 as a primer, how much Levelling Thinner should I use when airbrushing, is the same as the paint, ie 50/50 approx.?

2. As above, checking the ratios, have watched a fair few youtube vids which seem to point towards a 50/50 mix of paint to thinner?

3. When using the W&N varnishes (I have gloss to go over the acrylics (pre decals/wash and satin to finish as a top coat), can this be sprayed, if so do I use the same levelling thinner, if so at what ratio or should I be using something else to thin these?

4. Do I need to varnish post decal, pre wash? Or do I paint, varnish, decal, wash, varnish?

 

Thanks all.

[dnl42]

On the first two questions, I thin Mr Surfacer, Mr Color, and (original) Colourcoat to the same thin consistency, like 1% milk. I also thin MSI Micro Satin and Micro Flat the same way, but using water.

 

My full painting process is here. 

 

HTH

-- 

dnl

[Ray_W]

1 hour ago, Dunc2610 said:

1. When using Mr Surfacer 1200 as a primer, how much Levelling Thinner should I use when airbrushing, is the same as the paint, ie 50/50 approx.?

 

I use Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500. I expect my ratios are similar to the 1200. Frankly, 50/50 never works for me. Something more around 70% Mr Color Leveling Thinner and 30% paint. Maybe even more thinned. I use a similar ratio whether shot through my 0.35 or 0.2 mm needle Iwata's or my 0.15 mm H&S and pressure range 8 to 21 psi (sorry for the change to Imperial units). I have a premixed pot of this, that I continue to add to as I am using this stuff all the time. I do not like the milk descriptions, but maybe 1% milk is as good as any. You do get that way where, through experience, you can judge it by eye. Do premix and pour that into your paint cup otherwise a heavier mix will settle in the bottom of the cup. If you need to thin slightly in the cup then that is ok. If I need to thicken I prefer to do that out of the paint cup. When you paint, watch carefully. You want it going on wet, not dry, not flood. I tend to keep going with a series of light moist coats. Watch for dry overspray. One reason why you will find that many trying to get good gloss coats are working fairly close to the surface. 

 

I can't comment on W&N as I use Gunze lacquers for gloss coats typically GX-100 or 112. I do give the decals another gloss coat before any further weathering or final coats. I do it this way for two reasons (1) to give a similar finish to the un-decalled and decalled portions as the decal finish rarely matches the gloss coat and (2) to protect the decals.  Then apply your desired finish coat dependent on what you require and desired stage of weathering. 

 

Ray

[dromia]

As above Mr Surfacer 1500 thinned to at least 1/2 n 1/2 with Mr Levelling thinner more like 1/3rd - 2/3rds.

 

I spray W&N Galleria varnishes straight from the container no need to thin.

 

[Dunc2610]

Another perhaps silly question, can I use Mr colour and aqueous on the same model, there doesn't appear to be an aqueous version of C364 aircraft grey green, so I'm wondering if I should get and use this or perhaps use the tamiya equivalent? 

[Ray_W]

3 hours ago, Dunc2610 said:

Another perhaps silly question, can I use Mr colour and aqueous on the same model, there doesn't appear to be an aqueous version of C364 aircraft grey green, so I'm wondering if I should get and use this or perhaps use the tamiya equivalent? 

 

I use all quite interchangeably on the same model as the need arises - Gunze lacquer and aqueous  all thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. In fact, I also use Tamiya aqueous thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner on the same model if required. 

[Valleyforge]

On 12/21/2021 at 3:27 PM, dromia said:

I spray W&N Galleria varnishes straight from the container no need to thin.

Is the one you use in the can the same as this stuff.

 

https://www.therange.co.uk/arts-and-crafts/art-supplies/painting/paint/paint-finishes/winsor-and-newton-galeria-gloss-varnish/?gclid=CjwKCAiA0KmPBhBqEiwAJqKK41NQzi-P7VME_WDL8L7pWPvzCKGRZXZdH1mu_ZWnJvzqeoAkjaKeOhoCuYkQAvD_BwE#108393

[dromia]

Yes looks like it, I get mine in pint tubs.

 

They do a UV version as well which works just as good.

[VinBizz4786_]

Hey folks,

small curiosity, can the Mr surfacer (white or black) be used as color paint instead of real color paint (like Tamiya white or black) ?

[cpoud117]

In a pinch, sure thing. I don't see what could go wrong as long as you make sure it's thin enough.

 

 

[Ray_W]

15 minutes ago, VinBizz4786_ said:

Hey folks,

small curiosity, can the Mr surfacer (white or black) be used as color paint instead of real color paint (like Tamiya white or black) ?

 

Yes, current build on the bench Arma 1/48 Hurricane Mk IIC Night underside. The base coat Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black is as shown and to be left as the main colour. Weathering to come.

 

 

The Mr Finishing Surfacer Black and White are slightly off-black and off-white so I tend to not respray.  Use it for things such as props, spinners, and invasion stripes etc.etc. Note I use the finer 1500 Grade,

 

Ray

 

[dnl42]

8 minutes ago, cpoud117 said:

In a pinch, sure thing. I don't see what could go wrong as long as you make sure it's thin enough.

Agree, I'll put at least a thin color paint coat atop, but I don't expect a problem. In any event, you'll probably clear coat it.

[dnl42]

2 hours ago, Ray_W said:

Yes, current build on the bench Arma 1/48 Hurricane Mk IIC Night underside. The base coat Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black to be the main colour. Weathering to come.

 

FWIW, based on some reading, I used Mr. Color C125 Cowling Color as a Night substitute for my Lysander III SD. It's a little different shade.

Edited September 1, 2023 by dnl42
Edit: Fixed typo. Thanks Ray_W!

[VinBizz4786_]

Thanks for your answers guys, I’m asking because I’m building a F1 Ferrari and some parts are white and black so, Tamiya white band black are nightmares to spray, and the Mr Surfacer have smooth effects 

[Ray_W]

1 hour ago, dnl42 said:

FWIW, based on some reading, I used Mr. Color C25 Cowling Color as a Night substitute for my Lysander III SD. It's a little different shade.

 

I think you accidently dropped the "1". Gunze's C125 is their Japanese cowling colour with the slight bluish tinge some like for Night finishes. Interestingly. I'll be adding a slight bluish filter to some of the metal areas to break it up an add a little variety.  Should be fun to see what can be achieved.