Jump to content

What alternatives to 'Green stuff'?


Swiftnbold

Recommended Posts

I've used Green stuff putty a few times when I've needed to fill a bulk gap or when reshaping a profile, great putty, clean, easy to mix and sands well but it's an overnight wait before it's ready to work on.

What quicker setting but equally sandable options are there which others use?

Edited by Swiftnbold
Spelling
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For significant amounts of putty, I prefer Miliput, which can be shaped with water when fresh and sanded easily when dry.  Better still. unlike Green Stuff there is no shrinkage.  It is also less coarse.   None of the other tube fillers, Humbrol or Revell for example, as as good.  For finer work I like Mr. Surfacer 500 and Mr Modelling Putty, which flow easily into gaps, dry quickly and can be removed when dry very easily.  Mr. Surfacer 1000 is very fine, suitable only for surface scratches.  The 500 can be considered similarly, but after you've used it for a while what's left appears to thicken.  Drying up with matter left in the pot may be a problem for only casual use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are lots of options, and Milliput is a good one.  To save on putty though, you can pack out the gap with styrene or some other suitable material, securing it in place with super-glue (CA), then put a layer of putty over the top when you're done.  Milliput takes a while to cure too, but doesn't shrink, where green stuff and other cellulose-type putties will.  I sometimes use CA as my final layer, because it's tough and doesn't shrink much (if you get good stuff).  You have to get straight on the job with the sanding back though, because if you leave it overnight it could become harder than the surrounding plastic, and that will make getting a smooth surface more difficult.  I also sometimes put a thin smear of CA over Milliput too, as it makes it less porous, so takes the paint better. :)

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Superglue mixed with talcum powder is a quick setting filler.

But as Mike mentions, you need to trim and sand it back as soon as its hard cos if left for longer it becomes very much harder than the kit plastic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

44 minutes ago, Swiftnbold said:

What quicker setting but equally sandable options are there which others use?

superglue and talc.  a mix is softer than superglue on it own,  the mix can of course be varied,  dries fast, (5-10 min) sand and scrapes and carves well, 

 

for even gaps, plastic sheet/strip.  For speed, glue with superglue.   Can be worked in minutes. 

 

Big jobs, Milliput,   note, if you warm the parts before use, say on a radiator,  or even a brief zap in a microwave,  it will set faster once mixed.   As the other posters mention,  does not shrink, and can be shaped with water before setting to reduce sanding later.

 

HTH

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like milliput, but it is difficult to rescribe without getting crumbled edges. I this is going to be an issue, I'll use 'gloop' - a mix of left over sprues in Tamiya extra thin. Takes a while to fully dry, and you may get some shrinkage, but once set it can be worked just like the kit plastic.

 

Cheers

 

Colin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm a fan of superglu and talc like many of the other respondents. If you need to fill a big hole or actually replace a badly moulded or broken piece of plastic (I often build old 'classics') bicarbonate is good, used with superglue; you can't mix it like you can with talc, but rather apply an amount of glue, then use a coffee stirrer or similar to add bicarb onto it. Repeat until you have built up an unsightly carbuncle (I did this once with a damaged wingtip) and don't be stingy with the superglue. When dry (the bicarb works as an accelerant) you can cut, sand it, scribe it or anything else you can think of. Hope this helps, although best for more substantial repairs. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Graham Boak said:

Mr. Surfacer 1000 is very fine, suitable only for surface scratches.  The 500 can be considered similarly, but after you've used it for a while what's left appears to thicken.  Drying up with matter left in the pot may be a problem for only casual use.

That happens to me but easily sorted with a few dolops of Mr Color Thinner and a good stir. I've been using my pot of 500 for several years now.

Mark

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mr Surfacer is my favourite for small gaps, for example wing to fuselage joints I fill the gap using a cocktail stick, leave it for a few minutes and then use a cotton bud dipped in MrColor Thinner and remove the excess. For bigger gaps I use plastic scraps to fill the gap then CA on top, don't leave it too set too hard and then sand it and to finish polish with a nail buffer.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Swiftnbold said:

I did expect car body filler such as P38 to get a mention but none so far?

I use Milliput, Humbrol and P-38. Milliput is the only one without fumes. You'll need a window open with P-38, but it sets really quickly.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Easy-Sanding-Body-Filler-250ml/dp/B000TAW9FA/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3BW675DJYP68R&keywords=p38+body+filler&qid=1639865682&s=automotive&sprefix=p+38+body%2Cautomotive%2C177&sr=1-3

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Graham Boak said:

The 500 can be considered similarly, but after you've used it for a while what's left appears to thicken.  Drying up with matter left in the pot may be a problem for only casual use.

I found both Humbrol liquid poly and isopropyl alcohol will thin it,   isopropyl being the 'go to' after I bought 5 litres a while back.    Makes me wonder if some cellulose thinners may work as well? 

5 hours ago, Swiftnbold said:

I did expect car body filler such as P38 to get a mention but none so far?

maybe for really big jobs.   Maybe a faff for small jobs.   If you have some anyway,. it works well.    

Really,  as the replies you have got show,  a lot depends on various factors, size and type of gap, strength, finish, speed, and personal preference.  

 

Which is why I have my sig line on what works for you. 

 

cheers

T

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tend to use Mr S 500 for most seam lines these days. Can be easily sanded and polished up to reveal imperfections. I also use PPP for non-load bearing seams as I can wipe that into place with a damp cotton bud. The downside to PPP is that it always will react to water. You can use this to your advantage though and fill a seam with PPP before going to bed and wipe it down the following night. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...