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Ducati Panigale 1199 S (Tamiya, 1/12)

Delayar

By Delayar
in Ready For Inspection - Vehicles

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Delayar Established Member

Delayar

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Hi!

 

Here is my finished Ducati Panigale 1199 S from Tamiya.

I also used the Top Studio detail set, Tamiya front fork and Tamiya carbon fiber decals for the front fender.

Body Paint is Tamiya Italian Red with a Zero Paint 2K gloss coat.

 

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And without cowling:

 

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Cheers,

Markus

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Ade H Obsessed Member

Ade H

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That's really pretty good over all.

You did very well with the decals on the bodyshell; you made the wheel rim decals fit (I gave up on them); and you had the resoluteness to drill all those disc vent holes (I copped out and used a wash).

I see that you got that same gap in the "bird's beak" tail as I did, which is a relief to me because I always thought that it was 100% my error. I mean, Tamiya kits are not supposed to have fit problems, right? I ended up wicking thin CA into it and clamping it very firmly, with only some success. I've just ordered two more 1199s with the intention of, hopefully, improving on my previous shortcomings.

If I may give you a tip, though, extreme macros are good at showing overlooked mold seams. 😉

But once again: good work.

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Delayar Established Member

Delayar

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Thank you all!

 

7 hours ago, Ade H said:

That's really pretty good over all.

You did very well with the decals on the bodyshell; you made the wheel rim decals fit (I gave up on them); and you had the resoluteness to drill all those disc vent holes (I copped out and used a wash).

I see that you got that same gap in the "bird's beak" tail as I did, which is a relief to me because I always thought that it was 100% my error. I mean, Tamiya kits are not supposed to have fit problems, right? I ended up wicking thin CA into it and clamping it very firmly, with only some success. I've just ordered two more 1199s with the intention of, hopefully, improving on my previous shortcomings.

If I may give you a tip, though, extreme macros are good at showing overlooked mold seams. 😉

But once again: good work.

 

Thanks. The rim decals required a lot of Micro Sol. I didn't drill the holes in the brake discs, these are the Top Studio PE parts. The holes in the kit parts looked very soft, so I was afraid the holes would not be very tidy once drilled, therefore I decided to use the aftermarket stuff.

The gap on the tail seems to be a minor flaw of the Tamiya kit, but then again, I rather leave it like that than to mess up the paint job.

And yes, the macros bring out every flaw, which you don't notice with the naked eye. 😉

 

Cheers,

Markus

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slippers New Member

slippers

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Really nice finish. Very well done.

 

Has anyone used that Panigale kit with the aftermarket racing decals? I believe that there have been decal sets for Checa and Davies.

I've held off as I'm wary of there being discrepancies that would be beyond my ability to find scratch solutions to.

I

 

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Ade H Obsessed Member

Ade H

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Not sure that I've ever seen those @slippers. There is/was a set for Martini, which I think would need different [and probably unavailable] wheels to be accurate, and there's the 1199R set, which would need slicks [also unobtainable, probably] and appears to have one or two detail changes. I've been tempted to buy either, perhaps even both, if I could overlook what can't be altered.

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Natter Very Obsessed Member

Natter

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On 12/14/2021 at 8:06 PM, Marco F. said:

It looks like a 1:1 and not like a model.  You're sure you didn't posted pics of an original bike?

 

 

It's only the Tamiya micro-screws that give it away as a model, and you have to look hard to see them. Lovely model.

 

On 12/15/2021 at 6:19 AM, Delayar said:

I didn't drill the holes in the brake discs, these are the Top Studio PE parts.

 

Oh dear, I may have to invest in some Top Studio parts for future builds, they look so good.

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Ade H Obsessed Member

Ade H

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Are you thinking of those real tiny screws or rivets, the sort of thing which needs a hole drilled if there isn't one already?

I think I would prefer flat photo-etch for tiny fasteners because they can fit right into Tamiya's recessed details where decals are usually used and they can sometimes be placed directly over the kit's screws if they are recessed far enough. Raised details are more easily replaced as well.

 

Here are several sets which I've purchased for bikes:

Top Studio 0.6mm-1.3mm Photoetched Nuts in two styles -- round TD23041 and hex TD23040 (I was very impressed with these and I'd recommend them).

Top Studio 0.7-1.3mm Washers TD23107

Scalelab Models (not to be conflated with Scalelab 24) Dzus Fasteners SLM12003 (Also very impressed, but they have a specific use for racing bikes).

Hobby Design 1:12 / 1:24 Hexagonal Bolts HD02-0019 (Not as refined as the others and a bit more fiddly because they use two parts).

Edited by Ade H
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Delayar Established Member

Delayar

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On 12/17/2021 at 12:44 PM, Ade H said:

Are you thinking of those real tiny screws or rivets, the sort of thing which needs a hole drilled if there isn't one already?

I think I would prefer flat photo-etch for tiny fasteners because they can fit right into Tamiya's recessed details where decals are usually used and they can sometimes be placed directly over the kit's screws if they are recessed far enough. Raised details are more easily replaced as well.

 

Here are several sets which I've purchased for bikes:

Top Studio 0.6mm-1.3mm Photoetched Nuts in two styles -- round TD23041 and hex TD23040 (I was very impressed with these and I'd recommend them).

Top Studio 0.7-1.3mm Washers TD23107

Scalelab Models (not to be conflated with Scalelab 24) Dzus Fasteners SLM12003 (Also very impressed, but they have a specific use for racing bikes).

Hobby Design 1:12 / 1:24 Hexagonal Bolts HD02-0019 (Not as refined as the others and a bit more fiddly because they use two parts).

 I ws thinking on replacing the phillips screws with small allen key screws. I dont intend to replace everything with PE parts.

 

Cheers,

Markus

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Ade H Obsessed Member

Ade H

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Actually, I was just suggesting some items which may be of interest for future builds. If you want to replace Tamiya's screws on this model, I don't know, but I would be a bit wary of that. Surely, it would need screws which happen to be a snug fit for holes which are now worn by the originals, unless you're happy to glue the bodywork where any replacement screws may prove to be too loose.

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