Jump to content

Mercedes Benz 300 SLR n° 722 - Overall winner 1955 Mille Miglia, driven by Sir Stirling Moss - FINISHED


Recommended Posts

Evening gentlemen :)

 

Today was a busy and risky day !

 

I've painted aluminium the fuel tank and smear it with Tamiya black panel line and MIG pigments (polished metal), in order to get a dirty tank, as I said yesterday, what is necessary for a race car that have just raced the "Mille Miglia" in 24 hours
I've painted dark aluminium the gearbox and weathered it a bit too.

 

52088433187_a6a13c038d_c.jpg   52088433187_a6a13c038d_c.jpg

 

52089967085_03161fb396_c.jpg

 

I've scratched all the connectors that were needed at the end of the gearbox, the hoses that are connected to these connectors, scratched as well several banjos, and put 2 of them on the top of. the fuel tank.
Their hoses will feed the fuel pump booster later on.

 

At last, I've glued the gearbox under the fuel tank

 

52089710449_403308f92a_c.jpg   52089487318_fbacf2a7b2_c.jpg

 

52089967045_27e230f8bf_c.jpg   52088433137_533930bb3e_c.jpg

 

52089710399_2397851e13_c.jpg   52089462651_5088df016c_c.jpg

 

But, when I tried to glue the set on the chassis, began the problems  😡:

 

- The front part of the gearbox is too long forwards, so, it hits the drums and prevent the fuel tank to find its normal place !
- After studying the case, I've determined that had to cut off the front part of the gearbox first, install the set gearbox/fuel tank on the chassis and glue it.
- And then to glue the parts I've previously cut on the place where they have to be, shortening them a bit.
- I've next repaired the visible lines of glueing lines with UV resin and made some paint touch ups here and there .

 

I sweated a lot to doing this, fearing to do even worse, but finally, the result is GOOD !

 

52088433097_84ce7e6f83_b.jpg   52089462431_5850c5e121_c.jpg

 

 

52089967010_4795ec3a4c_c.jpg

 

I've also 3D printed the fuel cap which came out nicely from the printer .
As you could see on the pictures below, all details are present, but you one magnifying glasses, if not a microscope, to see them on the unpainted parts.
 

52089989200_0ee162ffd3_c.jpg   52089489976_93a36d4530_c.jpg
 
We'll see tomorrow how they look after priming and painted polished aluminum 
 
The next step will be to scratch the battery and its housing, the fuel booster pump, the treadle vac , the gearbox linkage, and to fabricate the last rear chassis part, with its stands for the previously named elements and spare wheels.
 

Stay tuned if you like :)

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Evening happy fellows :)

 

I've not worked much today but:

 

- I've drawn in Fusion 360 the fuel booster pump, the treadle vac canister and a new battery (different from the 300 SL's one, and I've improved the terminals)

- I've scratched the gearbox linkage, using 0.3 mm piano wire, 1.0 mm / 0.6 mm /0.4 mm brass tube, my magnifying glasses, some tiny needle files and my jeweler saw.

 

I'm waiting for the 3D printing to be finished, so I can measure the exact dimensions of the battery to be able to scratch its support.

 

My drawings :

 

The fuel booster pump:

 

52092087069_26a95288d1_c.jpg   52092346735_a7e229d7cc_c.jpg

 

52092087359_593f236734_c.jpg   52091862798_56ff1afed7_c.jpg

 

52091862823_f4df0cce6c_c.jpg

 

The treadle vac canister

 

52092087124_f61c4d6af3_c.jpg   52090813912_e5fb7d272c_c.jpg

 

52092346945_0f535ce1de_c.jpg

 

The battery

 

52092087099_542133700c_c.jpg   52091842141_d0883d1572_c.jpg

 

 

Making of the gearbox linkage:

- 2 parts articulated each other
- The first piece is theoretically articulated with the gear lever and is made of 4 parts: 1 section of 1.00 mm brass tube, 1 section of 0.8 mm brass tube, 1 section of 0.6 mm brass tube and one section of 0.3 mm piano wire
- The second piece articulates with the previous one ans is made of 5 parts: 1 long section of 0.6 mm brass tube, on which are threaded and glued two 0.6 mm nuts, 1 section of 0.8 mm brass tube, threaded on the 0.6 mm at one end, and on a 1,00 mm brass tube section the other end
- The two 1,00 mm brass tube sections connect each other with the 0.3 mm piano wire, and have been shaped with my jeweler saw and then with a very thin need file, to cut in each of them a groove. The 2 grooves  connect perpendicularly, thanks to the 0.3 mm piano wire, and, as on the real, are not aligned; an angle exist between them

 

I took inspiration of this picture:

 

52091862803_7edc9b6588_c.jpg

 

And tried to reproduce it as better as I could 

 

52091862573_1f31032da7_c.jpg   52091842236_b9216b8c6e_c.jpg

 

52092347310_9e99031ae8_c.jpg

 

It's been glued in place

 

52092347125_ebb6a58ccd_c.jpg

 

I've also painted and cleared the fuel cap

 

52092135369_21611fea4f_c.jpg 52092155909_ecc6a6bfc4_c.jpg

 

Sorry for the bad quality of these last 2 pictures; In reality the cap is far nicer, all details are visible at the naked eye.

 

That's all for now, folks :)

 

The next step is to scratch the missing rear part of the tubular chassis.

After many blank tests, I noticed that it will be difficult to install in the trunk the two spare wheels if I install too the fuel pump and the treadle vac canister. The tyres are a bit oversized imho or the kit's trunk not spacious enough... I'll see that later on.

 

It's mostly probable that a painful choice would have to be made !

 

Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching 😎

 

 

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Afternoon chaps :)

 

My 3D printed parts came out nicely, all details are present, but, once presented o the chassis, it appeared they are a bit oversized, I would say from 20%.

 

It's particularly true for the battery, whose dimensions are the same than the 300 SL's one, so rather correct, but here, due to the thickness of the chassis tubes, it's impossible to place it on the left side of the left  lateral structure, because its width won't allow later on to fit correctly the body shell !

 

So, I'm going to print again the parts, at 80% of their initial size, and fortunately, the issue will be solved 

 

Let's go for a 3 hours printing !

 

I've begun to inspect the tub and notices that the lateral parts are wrong: there is a door latch on the left, but on the right too !, and they are situated at a bad place, which imho is the place they have on the 300 SLR Coupé Uhlenhaut !
This has to be fixed by a little surgery, of course !

 

I have to tell as well that the tyres ares Dunlop Racing, when on the true car, they were Continental ones !
And, searching on the Web, I found that the Uhlenhaut SLR is equipped with Dunlop Racing .

 

I think that REVELL, in 1992, has decided to sacrify truth to profitability and re-used numerous parts for both kits !

 

At last, the tyres are frankly too big and couldn't be placed easily and correctly in the trunk.

However, the rims are 17.1 mm so 408 mm at 1:1, almost exactly a 16" rim, and the tyres dimensions seem correct but the kit's conception reduces the trunk dimensions
The Tamiya 300 SL kit's tyres are a bath thicker, but 1 mm lower, so, using them, if they accept to fit, I could win 2 mm in the trunk.

The issue could be their thickness, but I can cheat, reducing them.... what a shame, my God !! CC can cheat !......YES, I do, as many modelers 😉

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Evening gentlemen :)

 

Do you know that, even on a race car, there is an handbrake lever ?

This part as been totally forgotten by Revell, and I've decided to scratch it. I'll show yo later...

 

Furthermore, I've decided to throw in the trash the kit's part which is supposed to represent the gearshift grid. This chromed part is absolutely inaccurate !

So I've drawn it in Fusion 360, obviously simplifying strongly the design, because at this scale, the major part of tiny details wouldn't be visible !

 

And I've got that:

 

52094433611_1e0b93e08a_c.jpg   52093406897_36c6eb3554_c.jpg

 

52094669204_d16eb4d325_c.jpg

 

I'm looking forward how it will come put of the 3D printing !

 

Se you soon :)

 

 

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Afternoon gentlemen :)

 

The previous piece came out rather nicely but with defects on some elements of the grid, which were distorted, probably due to their thinness and also to a bad orientation on the plate.
So, I decided to print them again but before, I modified slightly he drawings, to improve the strenght of these elements...and I took the opportunity to add the part some missing details, taking inspiration of this picture:
 

52095071757_9e022302db_c.jpg

 

The linkages you can see around the grill won't be reproduced by the 3D printer, but some of them could be simulated later... wait and see

 

My new drawings:

 

52096097716_7c802d23e1_c.jpg   52096335614_0f38358378_c.jpg

 

The printed parts:

 

52096145418_cc3315416c_c.jpg  52096358784_8f72e97870_c.jpg

 

52096145403_29af9849c6_c.jpg

 

The preliminary surgery to do on the tub, to be able to insert the box in place

 

52095072402_ea471c0be3_c.jpg

 

The kit's part in place:

 

52096121913_cd0fb4dc12_c.jpg

 

My result with a 3D printed part

 

52096098281_79e98165de_c.jpg   52096335609_01f5babdb1_c.jpg

 

52096098226_bcc0391ee1_c.jpg   52096595380_1934af924c_c.jpg

 

You can also notice that I've opened an aperture to install the handbrake lever :)

 

Hereunder the inspiring Ref. photo:

 

52096163873_25d71716d3_c.jpg

 

 

The new battery, treadle vac canister and fuel boster pump are OK now, as well. 😎

 

Battery (only 3 of them are Ok, the others have defects)

 

52096191943_4275009e45_c.jpg

 

Canister:

 

52096182206_2a987cc9c6_c.jpg

 

Fuel pump:

 

52096208908_5eecd8d26a_c.jpg

 

I've now a lot of work ahead of me !

 

See you later for next steps (scratching of battery housing and handbrake lever) 😉

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, silver911 said:

Excellent work...on that gearshift plate in particular...so many fine details added it's hard to keep up 👍

 

Ron

 

Huge compliment again, Ron, and much appreciated, coming from you 😉

I do my best, and have a lot of fun, searching on Ref pictures which detail could be interesting to add, in terms of visibility and interest, if not difficulty,  in building it.

I have learned so much here, looking at the work of other modelers, and trying to replicate their techniques 😉

CC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Evening gentlemen :)

 

Contrary to what I said and thought, I've managed to install the first battery on the chassis, without preventing the bodywork to fit it. It's tight but it works :)

 

I'v scratched a housing for the battery and have taken inspiration from this photo:

 

52097515400_dcac54272e_c.jpg

 

I used "L" profile styrène, much too thick, but which have been sanded later, to form the bottom surrounding, and thin strips of 1.00 wide of 0.15 mm styrene sheet for the top surrounding and the corner structs.

The tubes which attach  the housing t the tubular chassis are 0.5 mm brass tubes shaped and cut little by little.

The bottom surrounding, as on the real, has received several holes. I've been a bit lazy and didn't do the same for the top surrounding !

The whole set has been primed, painted semi-gloss black and cleared.

Then, I've detailed the battery with some touch ups of silvers and yellow paint, connected the negative wire (copper one) to the chassis and a 0.2 mm red electrical wire to the positive terminal.

At last, the whole set has been glued with CA gel on 3 points on the chassis, and holds by the grace of modelers's God :)

 

I installed the body shell on the chassis to check if the battery created or not an issue, and, miraculously , it fits well !

I'm very surprised !

 

52097072398_3392c9a267_c.jpg   52097548305_0ff4869092_c.jpg

 

52097077488_9ce4f880a8_c.jpg   52097289209_c6c8e4884c_c.jpg

 

52097054276_d969321b7c_c.jpg   url=https://flic.kr/p/2nnFAVL]52097557950_9bdb13479b_c.jpg[/url]

 

52096033732_c4f7a4ef21_c.jpg   52097298744_e04cdfc2c0_c.jpg

 

52096039022_467d29c29b_c.jpg

 

And now, I'm going tho scratch the handbrake ver and its ratchet :)

 

Stay tuned if you like 😎

 

  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Pouln said:

Always a joy to find the updates to your thread. So many litle details added. Top!

 

It's true @Pouln, but Devil / Hell is in the details. It's both a joy and often a hell to fabricate them :)

Yhank yours mucin for, your very kind comment 👍

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Evening guys :)

 

I've scratched the handbrake lever, using 1.0 mm brass tube, 0.5 mm brass tube and a 0.3 mm piano wire:

- The goal is to get closest as possible with the real (on the photo I showed you yesterday)

- The front end is round, and next its  flattened /

- So, I threaded a 0.3 mm piano wire into a section of 0.5 mm brass tube, to get it stronger and prevent a mistaken  flattening while using my pliers

- I threaded the 0.5 mm tube into the 1.0 mm one

- I managed to flatten only half the thickness of the 1.0 mm tube

- And at last, I drilled a 0.3 mm hole at the bak of my lever, perpendicularly to its length ,and threaded a short section of 0.3 mm piano wire into the hole


 

And I got this:

 

52098917679_53f38f66da_c.jpg

 

A little filing:

 

52098935304_5bb67375ed_c.jpg   52098699066_84d2cca341_c.jpg

 

Then, I drawn in Fusion 360 a ratchet . Normally I think it's placed on the tubular chassis and isn't visible in the cabin, but I've decided to innovate, because it's aesthetic and nice to place it in the cabin...:)

 

The drawings:

 

52098709063_d2699fc095_c.jpg   52097655067_79216f6477_c.jpg

 

52098918019_203412a31e_c.jpg

 

The 3D print:

 

52098682496_e7741db639_c.jpg   52098917199_7ef9aa3dd7_c.jpg

 

52098682116_28df5772b2_c.jpg

 

Little blank test in the tub:

 

52098917249_0ac186b33f_c.jpg   52098708658_4ba707580e_c.jpg

 

 

The size of the stuff compared to the point of a scalpel blade:

 

52097654872_d4aa50775e_c.jpg

 

 

Then I've went on with the cabin modification:

 

1/ First: the hatch covers:

 

- Removed the latches on the sides
- removed the 2 hatches covers, which are too small compared to the real (they have the size we find on the SLR Uhlenhaut Coupé), sanded the surface
- Fabricated 2 new hatches' covers with 0.18 mm styrene sheet 4x5 x 9 mm
- Rounded the corners
- Drilled on the corners 4 0.2 mm holes on each cover
- Where later I'll thread a short section of 0.18 mm piano wire,  the top of which will barely protrude from the plane of the cover, to simulate a rivet
 

52097654607_806be83ff7_c.jpg

 

2/ Second: holes for other rivets on the inside of the vertical sides , in front of the seats

 

52099234840_fb4fd4f0f8_c.jpg   52099183775_d2a3c9e018_c.jpg

 

 

3/ Added bottom fixtures to the wall which separate the space before the passenger seat in two parts, and drilled on the fixtures holes for screws or rivets

 

52098739936_e6dfa78147_c.jpg   52097654317_5dd6cb4dfe_c.jpg

 

 

4/ Drilled a 3.0 mm hole on the floor in front of the driver's seat, on the left of the tunnel, where I'll insert later a short 3.0 mm of 2.8 mm tube, which wall has a very low thickness (0.15 mm) , to represent this:

 

52097726312_209bdaff03_c.jpg

 

I wouldn't swear to it, but it looks like a can holder...(or maybe it's a hole to pee in while driving 🤣 )

 

The can holder: has been made on the lathe, turning a brass rod, previously drilled 2.5 mm
 

52099264480_83207381cf_c.jpg

 

5/ Primed all cabin parts, including seats and separating wall...but not yet the can holder

 

 

I've also glued the fuel cap on the top of the fuel tank, before I lose it in my messy workbench !

 

52097655047_996f88e65d_c.jpg

 

That's all for now folks....:)

 

I'm always thinking about the way I could follow in order to fabricate the missing parts of the chassis situated at the very rear end, visible in the trunk.
Surfing on the Web, I've found a new idea for the tyres which are too big for the trunk: Draw smaller ones, same shapes, in Fusion 3D and 3D print them using black flexible resin, but the price of this stuff is simply insane :55 euros for half a liter  😲

 

See you soon for next episode 😎

 

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, Toftdale said:

Stunning work all round.  I dread to think how delicate the hand break bracket must be - Andy 

 

Each side is 0.3 mm, the base 0.4.

Rather string because now, I use an ABS like resin :)

Thanks for the huge comment 👍

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Evening guys :)

 

I've spent a few hours tonight fabricating a rough styrene template for the rear part of the tubular chassis, which will support spare wheels, fuel booster pump and treadle vac canister.


It required a lot of blank tests and believe I'm not far of the correct shape to make all elements fit correctly.
Taking in account the complexity of the thing, I'm not 100% sure, of course, I would say 70%.

 

I'm now (tomorrow) going to make a first attempt with 1.00 / 0.8 / 0.6 mm brass tubes that I'll solder together, including fixtures for the whole set on the existing plastic chassis...and we'll see how it come out!

 

The goal:

 

52104843027_fb431760bf_c.jpg

 

The template (please, consider that it's a rough  one)

 

52106376395_ac29f25e24_c.jpg

 

Comparison with the kit's part:

 

52104843037_cceaa58d97_c.jpg

 

Blank test on the chassis:

 

52105865886_abebb3e2b2_c.jpg   52105865821_94ab40bb2b_c.jpg`

 

And with the tyres:

 

52106376525_c41503a7cb_c.jpg

 

I don't know where I'm going, but I go there !

 

Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching 😎

 

  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Evening mates :)

 

I've, not without difficulty, fabricated the same assembly with brass tubes and solder.

It fits quite well, but seems too high, and indeed, when I did a blank test with the body on the whole chassis, this brass assembly included, It's impossible to place the tires.

So, I just began a second try, this time with aluminium tubes, easier to cut and drill, and we'll see....

 

8 hours wasted for ... nothing !

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, PROPELLER said:

Thierry, it's seems you are ready for that:

 

22052805505921392417907175.png

 

A bit pricey but what a beauty!

 

Dan.

 A collective Christmas gift perhaps ?

 

There will be a lot of work to improve this kit of 700 (or 900 ?) parts, from which a lot of screws  

"Easy to assemble...".....this is not, usually, my cut of tea !

 

I'll just assemble this wonder in 1:24 and try to do even better than the 300 SLR racing :)

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Morning everybody

 

I've achieved to scratch a more realistic rear tubular chassis to replace the kit's
I made it with 0.8 mm aluminium tube sections, glued together with CA gel, and maintained in position with 0.4 mm piano wire.
It wasn't a fun party !
It remains to fabricate two crossmembers, which will be glued later, and to scratch new mounting cups for the spare wheels .
I haven't be capable to do better than that !
I would have liked to be closer of the real, but the design of the kit structure and the size of the fuel ank prevented me from doing so.
And consequently , the wheels, even if I cheat using the 300 SL Tamiya ones, still can't  be placed in the trunk .
That's why I decided to cheat even more, decreasing the thickness of the tyres, removing their 2 central strips. Hopefully they ill fit now.

 

52111068356_842b115f75_c.jpg   52111306469_6df8190431_c.jpg

 

52110031182_88c1afe600_c.jpg   52111097038_51de6b890d_c.jpg

 

52110045042_bd141778f8_c.jpg  52110048917_b80f066b59_c.jpg

 

After priming and before sanding to correct defects :

 

52111078496_d335e3a8e2_c.jpg   52111129783_15f54d857b_c.jpg

 

52110068067_914f044d2f_c.jpg

 

With the tyres:

 

52110070292_e81cd9f9e6_c.jpg   52111340969_90519f2bc3_c.jpg

 

That's all for now.. I'm tired and am going to bed :)

 

Stay tuned for nexts steps :)

 

  • Like 9
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good evening gentlemen :)

 

A lot of work today for producing quite nothing 🤥😉

 

I've had to replace the hoses and the banjos which come out the fuel tank, because the black plastic sleeve, while handling, had broken off !

 

52115538944_9b403ec675_c.jpg

 

The god of modelling did me a favour today by suggesting that I do a blank assembly of the tub on the chassis.
Indeed, there was a fitting problem caused by the poor design of the underside of the tub, which conflicted with the tubular chassis, just above and in front of the gearbox.
I fixed the problem with a Dremel and a diamond cutter.
It looks like nothing, but if I hadn't noticed it today, I would have noticed it later (as Monsieur de La Palisse would say), much too late, and correcting the problem with a fully painted and assembled cabin would have been infinitely more difficult, tricky and risky!

 

I've so be able to paint the underside of the tub with semi-gloss black and to spray a coat of semi-gloss clear, to protect it.

 

52115336013_dff45ea2b2_c.jpg   52115803550_11f3671057_c.jpg

 

I've enhanced the final appearance of the rear end chassis that I'd primed yesterday and painted it semi-gloss black, and clear coated  it as well.
I've also made the two diagonal section of this structure, which will be glued in place after this one, and before the installation of the fuel booster pump and the treadle vac canister, with all the plumbing.

I've fabricated 6 banjos and  2 standard connectors and the hose which go with them.

 

52115803560_c67788439a_c.jpg   52115538964_4f1147b361_c.jpg

 

52115803555_5245c07e9c_c.jpg

 

At last, I've begun to paint the canister and the fuel pump.

 

52114269192_f97237fe98_c.jpg

 

Once fully cured, I'll be able to install the rear end chassis and all accessories, and then, only then, I'll try to install 2 spare wheels... this is another story and I'm far of this point.

In this regard, as I've planned to install thiner tyres, I'm obliged to design in Fusion 3 models of spoked rims: 1 for the 6" wide front tyres, the second for the 7" wide rear eyes, and the third one for the 4.5" wide spare tyres !

 

I dread the moment when I've to start this job 😨

 

Stay connected for next episode :)

 

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Evening guys :)

 

The rear end of the tubular frame has been glued in place, and the 2 diagonal cross members as well

 

52117421308_cf576424ec_c.jpg   52116357722_386b0e3935_c.jpg

 

52117633804_467b1b1486_c.jpg

 

The final paint of the Treadle vac canister and fuel booster pump is not perfectly dried, and I can't handle these parts (where there is 5 connectors to add with their hoses) before  tonight or tomorrow morning

 

52117395051_0b98b18160_c.jpg   52117388871_0f5988b2a0_c.jpg

 

52117406496_acf78296f1_c.jpg

 

So, dreading the moment when I've to start to design the new spoked wheels, "I jumped into the water" and started to work on the front wheels in Fusion 360 

 

At the moment, I'm at this point, far to be perfect obviously, with 0.3 mm spokes (my last attempts with 0.25 ones for the Delahaye's wheels always failed), not correctly offset fro each other on the same row, but at this scale, it won't be visible

 

52116357787_f3f191d3cc_c.jpg   52116357767_576fe6789d_c.jpg

 

52117892080_b1c145a795_c.jpg   52117421363_95f3de1fe8_c.jpg

 

What I am sure of, after analysis of the reference photos:


- There are 3 rows of spokes
- the outer and middle rows have 24 spokes each


However, I couldn't determine if the inner row has 24 spokes (like the wheels in the kit), or only 12. I would tend to lean towards 24, and that's how I drew the wheel.

 

The differences I am sure of between the real wheel, (so mine I tried to render as faithfully as possible), and those of the kit:


- In the kit the outer row of spokes comes from the outer part of the rim, and connects to the outermost part of the hub.
- This is wrong because on the real car, the first row comes from the outside of the rim, but connects to the outside of the innermost part of the hub: it "goes inside" the wheel.
- And the middle row starts from the outer part of the innermost part of the hub, and connects to the outer part of the rim: it goes out of the wheel.

 

Well, 3D printing this night...

 

Stay tuned if you like 😎

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Re, chaps :)

 

All things considered, after having compared my design and the true wheel, I've noticed some mistakes that I can't live with !

So, I've modified the design, and it's far better, (but always far to be perfect, obviously) :)

 

52117867413_0253473126_c.jpg   52117865478_1a406af387_c.jpg

 

52118076484_2aebae2e6e_c.jpg   52116808822_19c4abb77b_c.jpg

 

See you soon :)

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Afternoon guys :)

 

The 3D print of my spoked front wheels came out nicely....looking only at the outer side.

For the inner side, which is the nearest of the printing plate, there has been a problem with the supports, which height has been automatically decreased to quite zero by the slicer.

Consequently, It has been impossible to separate the wheels from the plate without damaging the inner side.

The spokes are perfect.

So, I've modified the settings of the slicer, asked for higher supports, and a new print is currently on the go, for about  4.5 hours.

 

However, I'm on the right way and I'm already pleased of what I got (Be aware that the wheels have not yet been cleaned)

 

52119452481_402e9dc5d1_c.jpg   52119952495_c905146d86_c.jpg

 

52119700874_7c04589e42_c.jpg   52118423082_2bac946207_c.jpg

 

`52119952750_cff1078e5d_c.jpg   

 

52119700864_b846a706c7_b.jpg

 

Furthermore, I've installed the banjos and other connectors with their hoses on the treadle vac canister and the fuel pump, and glued these elements on the rear chassis.
Due to the length of the canister 's banjos and the method I used to plumb them, it hasn't been possible to install the canister to its true place. It' s offset from about 2.5 mm downward .

 

52119483896_ea059b2f1b_c.jpg   52119511048_372cbcb43c_c.jpg

 

All banjos and hoses look a bit oversized, but I didi my best, and wasn't able to do better at this scale... another time, maybe ?

 

Stay tuned if you like and thanks for all comments :)

 

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...