CrazyCrank Posted May 21, 2022 Author Share Posted May 21, 2022 Evening gentlemen Today was a busy and risky day ! I've painted aluminium the fuel tank and smear it with Tamiya black panel line and MIG pigments (polished metal), in order to get a dirty tank, as I said yesterday, what is necessary for a race car that have just raced the "Mille Miglia" in 24 hours I've painted dark aluminium the gearbox and weathered it a bit too. I've scratched all the connectors that were needed at the end of the gearbox, the hoses that are connected to these connectors, scratched as well several banjos, and put 2 of them on the top of. the fuel tank. Their hoses will feed the fuel pump booster later on. At last, I've glued the gearbox under the fuel tank But, when I tried to glue the set on the chassis, began the problems 😡: - The front part of the gearbox is too long forwards, so, it hits the drums and prevent the fuel tank to find its normal place ! - After studying the case, I've determined that had to cut off the front part of the gearbox first, install the set gearbox/fuel tank on the chassis and glue it. - And then to glue the parts I've previously cut on the place where they have to be, shortening them a bit. - I've next repaired the visible lines of glueing lines with UV resin and made some paint touch ups here and there . I sweated a lot to doing this, fearing to do even worse, but finally, the result is GOOD ! I've also 3D printed the fuel cap which came out nicely from the printer . As you could see on the pictures below, all details are present, but you one magnifying glasses, if not a microscope, to see them on the unpainted parts. We'll see tomorrow how they look after priming and painted polished aluminum The next step will be to scratch the battery and its housing, the fuel booster pump, the treadle vac , the gearbox linkage, and to fabricate the last rear chassis part, with its stands for the previously named elements and spare wheels. Stay tuned if you like 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted May 22, 2022 Author Share Posted May 22, 2022 Evening happy fellows I've not worked much today but: - I've drawn in Fusion 360 the fuel booster pump, the treadle vac canister and a new battery (different from the 300 SL's one, and I've improved the terminals) - I've scratched the gearbox linkage, using 0.3 mm piano wire, 1.0 mm / 0.6 mm /0.4 mm brass tube, my magnifying glasses, some tiny needle files and my jeweler saw. I'm waiting for the 3D printing to be finished, so I can measure the exact dimensions of the battery to be able to scratch its support. My drawings : The fuel booster pump: The treadle vac canister The battery Making of the gearbox linkage: - 2 parts articulated each other - The first piece is theoretically articulated with the gear lever and is made of 4 parts: 1 section of 1.00 mm brass tube, 1 section of 0.8 mm brass tube, 1 section of 0.6 mm brass tube and one section of 0.3 mm piano wire - The second piece articulates with the previous one ans is made of 5 parts: 1 long section of 0.6 mm brass tube, on which are threaded and glued two 0.6 mm nuts, 1 section of 0.8 mm brass tube, threaded on the 0.6 mm at one end, and on a 1,00 mm brass tube section the other end - The two 1,00 mm brass tube sections connect each other with the 0.3 mm piano wire, and have been shaped with my jeweler saw and then with a very thin need file, to cut in each of them a groove. The 2 grooves connect perpendicularly, thanks to the 0.3 mm piano wire, and, as on the real, are not aligned; an angle exist between them I took inspiration of this picture: And tried to reproduce it as better as I could It's been glued in place I've also painted and cleared the fuel cap Sorry for the bad quality of these last 2 pictures; In reality the cap is far nicer, all details are visible at the naked eye. That's all for now, folks The next step is to scratch the missing rear part of the tubular chassis. After many blank tests, I noticed that it will be difficult to install in the trunk the two spare wheels if I install too the fuel pump and the treadle vac canister. The tyres are a bit oversized imho or the kit's trunk not spacious enough... I'll see that later on. It's mostly probable that a painful choice would have to be made ! Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching 😎 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted May 23, 2022 Author Share Posted May 23, 2022 Afternoon chaps My 3D printed parts came out nicely, all details are present, but, once presented o the chassis, it appeared they are a bit oversized, I would say from 20%. It's particularly true for the battery, whose dimensions are the same than the 300 SL's one, so rather correct, but here, due to the thickness of the chassis tubes, it's impossible to place it on the left side of the left lateral structure, because its width won't allow later on to fit correctly the body shell ! So, I'm going to print again the parts, at 80% of their initial size, and fortunately, the issue will be solved Let's go for a 3 hours printing ! I've begun to inspect the tub and notices that the lateral parts are wrong: there is a door latch on the left, but on the right too !, and they are situated at a bad place, which imho is the place they have on the 300 SLR Coupé Uhlenhaut ! This has to be fixed by a little surgery, of course ! I have to tell as well that the tyres ares Dunlop Racing, when on the true car, they were Continental ones ! And, searching on the Web, I found that the Uhlenhaut SLR is equipped with Dunlop Racing . I think that REVELL, in 1992, has decided to sacrify truth to profitability and re-used numerous parts for both kits ! At last, the tyres are frankly too big and couldn't be placed easily and correctly in the trunk. However, the rims are 17.1 mm so 408 mm at 1:1, almost exactly a 16" rim, and the tyres dimensions seem correct but the kit's conception reduces the trunk dimensions The Tamiya 300 SL kit's tyres are a bath thicker, but 1 mm lower, so, using them, if they accept to fit, I could win 2 mm in the trunk. The issue could be their thickness, but I can cheat, reducing them.... what a shame, my God !! CC can cheat !......YES, I do, as many modelers 😉 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted May 23, 2022 Author Share Posted May 23, 2022 Evening gentlemen Do you know that, even on a race car, there is an handbrake lever ? This part as been totally forgotten by Revell, and I've decided to scratch it. I'll show yo later... Furthermore, I've decided to throw in the trash the kit's part which is supposed to represent the gearshift grid. This chromed part is absolutely inaccurate ! So I've drawn it in Fusion 360, obviously simplifying strongly the design, because at this scale, the major part of tiny details wouldn't be visible ! And I've got that: I'm looking forward how it will come put of the 3D printing ! Se you soon 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted May 24, 2022 Author Share Posted May 24, 2022 Afternoon gentlemen The previous piece came out rather nicely but with defects on some elements of the grid, which were distorted, probably due to their thinness and also to a bad orientation on the plate. So, I decided to print them again but before, I modified slightly he drawings, to improve the strenght of these elements...and I took the opportunity to add the part some missing details, taking inspiration of this picture: The linkages you can see around the grill won't be reproduced by the 3D printer, but some of them could be simulated later... wait and see My new drawings: The printed parts: The preliminary surgery to do on the tub, to be able to insert the box in place The kit's part in place: My result with a 3D printed part You can also notice that I've opened an aperture to install the handbrake lever Hereunder the inspiring Ref. photo: The new battery, treadle vac canister and fuel boster pump are OK now, as well. 😎 Battery (only 3 of them are Ok, the others have defects) Canister: Fuel pump: I've now a lot of work ahead of me ! See you later for next steps (scratching of battery housing and handbrake lever) 😉 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver911 Posted May 24, 2022 Share Posted May 24, 2022 Excellent work...on that gearshift plate in particular...so many fine details added it's hard to keep up 👍 Ron 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted May 24, 2022 Author Share Posted May 24, 2022 2 hours ago, silver911 said: Excellent work...on that gearshift plate in particular...so many fine details added it's hard to keep up 👍 Ron Huge compliment again, Ron, and much appreciated, coming from you 😉 I do my best, and have a lot of fun, searching on Ref pictures which detail could be interesting to add, in terms of visibility and interest, if not difficulty, in building it. I have learned so much here, looking at the work of other modelers, and trying to replicate their techniques 😉 CC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted May 24, 2022 Author Share Posted May 24, 2022 Evening gentlemen Contrary to what I said and thought, I've managed to install the first battery on the chassis, without preventing the bodywork to fit it. It's tight but it works I'v scratched a housing for the battery and have taken inspiration from this photo: I used "L" profile styrène, much too thick, but which have been sanded later, to form the bottom surrounding, and thin strips of 1.00 wide of 0.15 mm styrene sheet for the top surrounding and the corner structs. The tubes which attach the housing t the tubular chassis are 0.5 mm brass tubes shaped and cut little by little. The bottom surrounding, as on the real, has received several holes. I've been a bit lazy and didn't do the same for the top surrounding ! The whole set has been primed, painted semi-gloss black and cleared. Then, I've detailed the battery with some touch ups of silvers and yellow paint, connected the negative wire (copper one) to the chassis and a 0.2 mm red electrical wire to the positive terminal. At last, the whole set has been glued with CA gel on 3 points on the chassis, and holds by the grace of modelers's God I installed the body shell on the chassis to check if the battery created or not an issue, and, miraculously , it fits well ! I'm very surprised ! url=https://flic.kr/p/2nnFAVL][/url] And now, I'm going tho scratch the handbrake ver and its ratchet Stay tuned if you like 😎 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted May 25, 2022 Share Posted May 25, 2022 Always a joy to find the updates to your thread. So many litle details added. Top! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted May 25, 2022 Author Share Posted May 25, 2022 2 minutes ago, Pouln said: Always a joy to find the updates to your thread. So many litle details added. Top! It's true @Pouln, but Devil / Hell is in the details. It's both a joy and often a hell to fabricate them Yhank yours mucin for, your very kind comment 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted May 25, 2022 Author Share Posted May 25, 2022 Evening guys I've scratched the handbrake lever, using 1.0 mm brass tube, 0.5 mm brass tube and a 0.3 mm piano wire: - The goal is to get closest as possible with the real (on the photo I showed you yesterday) - The front end is round, and next its flattened / - So, I threaded a 0.3 mm piano wire into a section of 0.5 mm brass tube, to get it stronger and prevent a mistaken flattening while using my pliers - I threaded the 0.5 mm tube into the 1.0 mm one - I managed to flatten only half the thickness of the 1.0 mm tube - And at last, I drilled a 0.3 mm hole at the bak of my lever, perpendicularly to its length ,and threaded a short section of 0.3 mm piano wire into the hole And I got this: A little filing: Then, I drawn in Fusion 360 a ratchet . Normally I think it's placed on the tubular chassis and isn't visible in the cabin, but I've decided to innovate, because it's aesthetic and nice to place it in the cabin...:) The drawings: The 3D print: Little blank test in the tub: The size of the stuff compared to the point of a scalpel blade: Then I've went on with the cabin modification: 1/ First: the hatch covers: - Removed the latches on the sides - removed the 2 hatches covers, which are too small compared to the real (they have the size we find on the SLR Uhlenhaut Coupé), sanded the surface - Fabricated 2 new hatches' covers with 0.18 mm styrene sheet 4x5 x 9 mm - Rounded the corners - Drilled on the corners 4 0.2 mm holes on each cover - Where later I'll thread a short section of 0.18 mm piano wire, the top of which will barely protrude from the plane of the cover, to simulate a rivet 2/ Second: holes for other rivets on the inside of the vertical sides , in front of the seats 3/ Added bottom fixtures to the wall which separate the space before the passenger seat in two parts, and drilled on the fixtures holes for screws or rivets 4/ Drilled a 3.0 mm hole on the floor in front of the driver's seat, on the left of the tunnel, where I'll insert later a short 3.0 mm of 2.8 mm tube, which wall has a very low thickness (0.15 mm) , to represent this: I wouldn't swear to it, but it looks like a can holder...(or maybe it's a hole to pee in while driving 🤣 ) The can holder: has been made on the lathe, turning a brass rod, previously drilled 2.5 mm 5/ Primed all cabin parts, including seats and separating wall...but not yet the can holder I've also glued the fuel cap on the top of the fuel tank, before I lose it in my messy workbench ! That's all for now folks....:) I'm always thinking about the way I could follow in order to fabricate the missing parts of the chassis situated at the very rear end, visible in the trunk. Surfing on the Web, I've found a new idea for the tyres which are too big for the trunk: Draw smaller ones, same shapes, in Fusion 3D and 3D print them using black flexible resin, but the price of this stuff is simply insane :55 euros for half a liter 😲 See you soon for next episode 😎 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toftdale Posted May 25, 2022 Share Posted May 25, 2022 Stunning work all round. I dread to think how delicate the hand break bracket must be - Andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted May 25, 2022 Author Share Posted May 25, 2022 14 minutes ago, Toftdale said: Stunning work all round. I dread to think how delicate the hand break bracket must be - Andy Each side is 0.3 mm, the base 0.4. Rather string because now, I use an ABS like resin Thanks for the huge comment 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver911 Posted May 25, 2022 Share Posted May 25, 2022 2 hours ago, Toftdale said: Stunning work all round. I dread to think how delicate the hand break bracket must be - Andy What Andy said 😱 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted May 28, 2022 Author Share Posted May 28, 2022 Evening guys I've spent a few hours tonight fabricating a rough styrene template for the rear part of the tubular chassis, which will support spare wheels, fuel booster pump and treadle vac canister. It required a lot of blank tests and believe I'm not far of the correct shape to make all elements fit correctly. Taking in account the complexity of the thing, I'm not 100% sure, of course, I would say 70%. I'm now (tomorrow) going to make a first attempt with 1.00 / 0.8 / 0.6 mm brass tubes that I'll solder together, including fixtures for the whole set on the existing plastic chassis...and we'll see how it come out! The goal: The template (please, consider that it's a rough one) Comparison with the kit's part: Blank test on the chassis: ` And with the tyres: I don't know where I'm going, but I go there ! Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching 😎 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toftdale Posted May 29, 2022 Share Posted May 29, 2022 Top work, I think you're being far too harsh on yourself and only rating it at 70%, it just a shame when completed you only be able to see less and 10% of the piece - Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted May 29, 2022 Author Share Posted May 29, 2022 Evening mates I've, not without difficulty, fabricated the same assembly with brass tubes and solder. It fits quite well, but seems too high, and indeed, when I did a blank test with the body on the whole chassis, this brass assembly included, It's impossible to place the tires. So, I just began a second try, this time with aluminium tubes, easier to cut and drill, and we'll see.... 8 hours wasted for ... nothing ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schwarz-Brot Posted May 29, 2022 Share Posted May 29, 2022 Not wasted for nothing. You were simply warming up to do an even better job. 😉 The detail you put into your models and the quality of your research leaves me speechless all the time. A pleasure to follow! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROPELLER Posted May 30, 2022 Share Posted May 30, 2022 Thierry, it's seems you are ready for that: A bit pricey but what a beauty! Dan. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted May 30, 2022 Author Share Posted May 30, 2022 8 hours ago, PROPELLER said: Thierry, it's seems you are ready for that: A bit pricey but what a beauty! Dan. A collective Christmas gift perhaps ? There will be a lot of work to improve this kit of 700 (or 900 ?) parts, from which a lot of screws "Easy to assemble...".....this is not, usually, my cut of tea ! I'll just assemble this wonder in 1:24 and try to do even better than the 300 SLR racing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted May 31, 2022 Author Share Posted May 31, 2022 Morning everybody I've achieved to scratch a more realistic rear tubular chassis to replace the kit's I made it with 0.8 mm aluminium tube sections, glued together with CA gel, and maintained in position with 0.4 mm piano wire. It wasn't a fun party ! It remains to fabricate two crossmembers, which will be glued later, and to scratch new mounting cups for the spare wheels . I haven't be capable to do better than that ! I would have liked to be closer of the real, but the design of the kit structure and the size of the fuel ank prevented me from doing so. And consequently , the wheels, even if I cheat using the 300 SL Tamiya ones, still can't be placed in the trunk . That's why I decided to cheat even more, decreasing the thickness of the tyres, removing their 2 central strips. Hopefully they ill fit now. After priming and before sanding to correct defects : With the tyres: That's all for now.. I'm tired and am going to bed Stay tuned for nexts steps 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted June 1, 2022 Author Share Posted June 1, 2022 Good evening gentlemen A lot of work today for producing quite nothing 🤥😉 I've had to replace the hoses and the banjos which come out the fuel tank, because the black plastic sleeve, while handling, had broken off ! The god of modelling did me a favour today by suggesting that I do a blank assembly of the tub on the chassis. Indeed, there was a fitting problem caused by the poor design of the underside of the tub, which conflicted with the tubular chassis, just above and in front of the gearbox. I fixed the problem with a Dremel and a diamond cutter. It looks like nothing, but if I hadn't noticed it today, I would have noticed it later (as Monsieur de La Palisse would say), much too late, and correcting the problem with a fully painted and assembled cabin would have been infinitely more difficult, tricky and risky! I've so be able to paint the underside of the tub with semi-gloss black and to spray a coat of semi-gloss clear, to protect it. I've enhanced the final appearance of the rear end chassis that I'd primed yesterday and painted it semi-gloss black, and clear coated it as well. I've also made the two diagonal section of this structure, which will be glued in place after this one, and before the installation of the fuel booster pump and the treadle vac canister, with all the plumbing. I've fabricated 6 banjos and 2 standard connectors and the hose which go with them. At last, I've begun to paint the canister and the fuel pump. Once fully cured, I'll be able to install the rear end chassis and all accessories, and then, only then, I'll try to install 2 spare wheels... this is another story and I'm far of this point. In this regard, as I've planned to install thiner tyres, I'm obliged to design in Fusion 3 models of spoked rims: 1 for the 6" wide front tyres, the second for the 7" wide rear eyes, and the third one for the 4.5" wide spare tyres ! I dread the moment when I've to start this job 😨 Stay connected for next episode 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted June 2, 2022 Author Share Posted June 2, 2022 Evening guys The rear end of the tubular frame has been glued in place, and the 2 diagonal cross members as well The final paint of the Treadle vac canister and fuel booster pump is not perfectly dried, and I can't handle these parts (where there is 5 connectors to add with their hoses) before tonight or tomorrow morning So, dreading the moment when I've to start to design the new spoked wheels, "I jumped into the water" and started to work on the front wheels in Fusion 360 At the moment, I'm at this point, far to be perfect obviously, with 0.3 mm spokes (my last attempts with 0.25 ones for the Delahaye's wheels always failed), not correctly offset fro each other on the same row, but at this scale, it won't be visible What I am sure of, after analysis of the reference photos: - There are 3 rows of spokes - the outer and middle rows have 24 spokes each However, I couldn't determine if the inner row has 24 spokes (like the wheels in the kit), or only 12. I would tend to lean towards 24, and that's how I drew the wheel. The differences I am sure of between the real wheel, (so mine I tried to render as faithfully as possible), and those of the kit: - In the kit the outer row of spokes comes from the outer part of the rim, and connects to the outermost part of the hub. - This is wrong because on the real car, the first row comes from the outside of the rim, but connects to the outside of the innermost part of the hub: it "goes inside" the wheel. - And the middle row starts from the outer part of the innermost part of the hub, and connects to the outer part of the rim: it goes out of the wheel. Well, 3D printing this night... Stay tuned if you like 😎 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted June 2, 2022 Author Share Posted June 2, 2022 Re, chaps All things considered, after having compared my design and the true wheel, I've noticed some mistakes that I can't live with ! So, I've modified the design, and it's far better, (but always far to be perfect, obviously) See you soon 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted June 3, 2022 Author Share Posted June 3, 2022 Afternoon guys The 3D print of my spoked front wheels came out nicely....looking only at the outer side. For the inner side, which is the nearest of the printing plate, there has been a problem with the supports, which height has been automatically decreased to quite zero by the slicer. Consequently, It has been impossible to separate the wheels from the plate without damaging the inner side. The spokes are perfect. So, I've modified the settings of the slicer, asked for higher supports, and a new print is currently on the go, for about 4.5 hours. However, I'm on the right way and I'm already pleased of what I got (Be aware that the wheels have not yet been cleaned) ` Furthermore, I've installed the banjos and other connectors with their hoses on the treadle vac canister and the fuel pump, and glued these elements on the rear chassis. Due to the length of the canister 's banjos and the method I used to plumb them, it hasn't been possible to install the canister to its true place. It' s offset from about 2.5 mm downward . All banjos and hoses look a bit oversized, but I didi my best, and wasn't able to do better at this scale... another time, maybe ? Stay tuned if you like and thanks for all comments 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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