Mercedes Benz 300 SLR n° 722 - Overall winner 1955 Mille Miglia, driven by Sir Stirling Moss - FINISHED

[CrazyCrank]

😉Afternoon Gentlemen

 

To stay in the same frame as my previous models, I will start building the 1:24 REVELL replica of the famous Mercedes Benz 300 SLR n° 722, which, driven by Sir Stirling Moss, won the first place in all categories of the 1955 edition of the Mille Miglia, at the incredible average speed of more than 93 mph for the time.

Let's remember that Mercedes Benz entered five cars for the 1955 Mille Miglia, two 300 SLRs, numbered 722 (Stirling Moss), 658 (Juan Manuel Fangio), and three 300 SLs, numbered 417 (John Fitch), 428 (Olivier Gendebien) and 445 (Salvatore Casella).
These five cars finished in the TOP 10, with Moss' SLR finishing first overall, Fitch's SL finishing fifth overall and first in its class (Grand Touring Vehicles over 1.3 litres).

My decision follows directly from my 2 previous montages, the goal being to gather in the same showcase the two most emblematic cars of this race.

 

To whet your appetite, here is a link to a Youtube video posted in 2015 when Sir Stirling Moss was invited to drive a Mercedes Benz-built replica of his famous 300 SLR No. 722.

(I hope this is not forbidden, and, if anyone knows wether it's the case, let me know please)

 

 

 

And now, the unboxing:

 

 

 

 

 

Tires have inscriptions (Dunlop Racing and some numbers)

 

 

The instructions: (as you can see, the kit is very old !):

 

 

 

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I already had two of these kits in stock, the first one, bought about 30 years ago, had been started with few modelling means, and no documentation available because the public Internet didn't exist or almost, and the second one, bought more recently on eBay because the first kit was no longer fully salvageable to start again on a good basis.
So I'll be able to tinker with all these stuffs and probably, in addition to scratch-built parts here and there, try to present it with an opening driver door and rear trunk and its two spare wheels.

 

Stay tuned for next adventures 😎

 

[Hamden]

 

 Looking forward to seeing what you do with this one.

 

     Stay safe             Roger

[Vesa Jussila]

I take my popcorn and start following. Really interesting project and I think this kit was originally Monogram. 

[CrazyCrank]

Evening guys

 

Just this one, I've decided to start with the body.

So, two hours have been spent to cut off the trunk lid in a clean way, and this is the result:

 

 

The cut is not perfect and little touch up with putty are needed to get it a better aspect.

But it looks like a good start

 

Stay tuned if you like and thanks for watching 😎

[JeroenS]

OK so I'm in for this one!

[Pouln]

Thierry, be sure that the shadow close behind you is me. I will follow you, because I’m sure you will be able to create another epic model.

[Spiny]

That's some very tidy cutting work to start this build off.

 

I do have one question regarding the instructions though - what's with the MASSIVE off-road style wheels in Step 46?

 

[CrazyCrank]

25 minutes ago, Spiny said:

That's some very tidy cutting work to start this build off.

 

I do have one question regarding the instructions though - what's with the MASSIVE off-road style wheels in Step 46?

 

 

Hi Spiny

In reality, this is a very old kit, and the instructions too are old style.

The tires are in fact 8,85 thick for the rear and 7,75 fort the front.

The wheels are here made or 3 chromed parts each and are very ugly.

I've planed to 3D drawing and printing them, as I did for y Delahaye 135.

 

[CrazyCrank]

Afternoon Gentlemen

 

A little progress today:

 

- The driver's door has been cut off, it will be articulated, as the trunk lid

- Plastic thickness plastic of the body  has been drastically reduced at wheel arches, driver's door, 2 ventilation apertures in front of the windshield

- 2 tiny pieces of styrene sheet 0.3 mm has been added on the sides of the left aperture, they were missing on the kit, after comparison with the reference photos.

- The Mercedes Benz Star emblem on the nose of the car has been cut off, because it would be difficult to paint it Chrome later, and it will be replaced by metal transfer (spare part from my 4th MEB 300 SL kit )

- I would like to do so on the trunk lid, but here, there is too under the star, the letters "300 SLR", for which I've no Metal transfer nor photo-etched parts, so, I'm hesitating about what to do....I must sleep on it.

 

 

 

 

  

 

 

This one too might be modified, making the fuel door openable

 

 

Stay tuned for next steps 😎

[Pouln]

Lots of modifications already and you just started. Interesting stuff, Thierry.

[Brandy]

Ooh, another Merc! I'm in!

I met Sir Stirling once when I visited what was then Sears Point Raceway in California for a classic car meet (Paul Newman was one of the drivers). Unfortunately I couldn't think of anything intelligent to say to him!

 

Ian

[Spiny]

Already a lot of good work going into this.

 

Just a thought for the emblems, but for the JAGUAR lettering on my current build I put a layer of bare metal foil over the raised lettering, painted over the top, then carefully micromeshed back until I'd taken the paint off the lettering but not the surround. Obviously a lot easier for me as I could easily touch up since the lettering is on a black piece of trim rather than spray paint, and the sharpness may not be to your usual standards, but worth a thought?

 

 

Feel free to ignore if it doesn't suit your build or you find a better method - if so I'd love to hear it as I have a car in the stash with some very intricate badges I will need to sort out, probably in 2023.

[Vesa Jussila]

On 12/8/2021 at 10:22 PM, CrazyCrank said:

The wheels are here made or 3 chromed parts each and are very ugly.

I've planed to 3D drawing and printing them, as I did for y Delahaye 135.

 

What type of printer you are using for this? And what is software you use for drawing 3D models?

[Toftdale]

Great start, great subject.   I remember reading a pole in a car magazine (Octane?) were group of experts tried to work out what would be the most expensive car in the world should it ever come to auction and 722 was the clear winner.  With regards to the rear emblems I have seen a video on YouTube were they took a mold of the emblems off the model and then filled the mold with solder, it looked ever so easy (Not)! But it did look very effective.   If I can remember what video it was I will share the link.  Andy

[CrazyCrank]

3 hours ago, Vesa Jussila said:

 

What type of printer you are using for this? And what is software you use for drawing 3D models?

I draw the models in Fusion 360 and I print them with a 3D resin printer (Elegoo mars pro) I 

[Vesa Jussila]

@CrazyCrank Thanks for information. I just signed free version of Fusion. Let see how I will learn it. I haven't touched 3D cad in decades.  But this printing will give so many opportunities' that i really need to look it.

[CrazyCrank]

Good afternoon gentlemen

 

A bit of progress in the preparation of the body.

 

I've cut off the repair panel oh the right side of the body, in front of the exhaust housing, because Sir Stirling Moss drove his car during 1955 Mille Miglia without this panel, just in order to save time in case of needed repair during the race

I've cut off the opening on the top of the left rear spolier, because it's normally articulated and give access to the fuel  filler inlet.

I've filled with putty the notches on front and rear edges of left and right sides apertures just in front of the tub

 

All the cuts have been thinned, sanded and then covered with putty, because:

- the saw cut is never perfectly regular

- And it's a well too thick

 

Once cured, the putty will be sanded little by little until the parts fitting is perfect.

 

The next steps will be to make the hinges for fuel door, driver door, trunk lid and rear spoilers, if possible.

 

 

  

 

  

 

  

 

 

Merry m.... (ooops 🤭), isn't it ?

 

Stay tuned if you like 😎

[Vesa Jussila]

Master piece in making. Nice to follow this.

[Fastcat]

Hi CrazyCrank,

                           As you've probably noticed, Revell's model doesn't really represent the 300SLR that raced. It's a reasonably accurate model of the car as restored at the time by Mercedes and as such was "roadified". The fuel filler cap and headrest is wrong for the Mille Miglia cars. It's the Targa Florio style with a completely different cover and I think the headrest profile is wrong too.

The font of the racing number is not correct either although I think Mercedes corrected it on a more recent restoration. I don't think the Mercedes emblem on the front of the race car was raised, being either painted on or a decal, which might be to your advantage.

Sidelights weren't fitted to the race car but to make it road legal, they were on the Mercedes later version.

The headlights didn't have a chrome surround - it was black rubber.

There are other differences but you need to check actual race photos if you want to build that version. If you want to build the Museum version the kit's fairly accurate for the year kitted but Mercedes changed details over the years.

You're dead right about the wheels - they're bad!

I also think the body's a bit slab sided but that's due to the moulding process and worth putting up with to have a model of the 300.

 

Dave

[modelbautony]

13 minutes ago, Fastcat said:

Hi CrazyCrank,

                           As you've probably noticed, Revell's model doesn't really represent the 300SLR that raced. It's a reasonably accurate model of the car as restored at the time by Mercedes and as such was "roadified". The fuel filler cap and headrest is wrong for the Mille Miglia cars. It's the Targa Florio style with a completely different cover and I think the headrest profile is wrong too.

The font of the racing number is not correct either although I think Mercedes corrected it on a more recent restoration. I don't think the Mercedes emblem on the front of the race car was raised, being either painted on or a decal, which might be to your advantage.

Sidelights weren't fitted to the race car but to make it road legal, they were on the Mercedes later version.

The headlights didn't have a chrome surround - it was black rubber.

There are other differences but you need to check actual race photos if you want to build that version. If you want to build the Museum version the kit's fairly accurate for the year kitted but Mercedes changed details over the years.

You're dead right about the wheels - they're bad!

I also think the body's a bit slab sided but that's due to the moulding process and worth putting up with to have a model of the 300.

 

Dave

In total agreement with all you say, Dave.

CrazyCrank, I'm working on this too. I have re-drawn the racing numbers in case you are interested and can let you have artwork for you to get printed yourself, if it helps (ignore 3s and YARDLEY, and stripes, they are of course for other subjects):

 

 

T

[CrazyCrank]

13 minutes ago, Fastcat said:

Hi CrazyCrank,

 

Thanks a lot Dave, for those precisions

 

13 minutes ago, Fastcat said:

                           As you've probably noticed, Revell's model doesn't really represent the 300SLR that raced. It's a reasonably accurate model of the car as restored at the time by Mercedes and as such was "roadified". The fuel filler cap and headrest is wrong for the Mille Miglia cars. It's the Targa Florio style with a completely different cover and I think the headrest profile is wrong too.

Yes, I'd noticed

I haven't any picture of the fuel filler cap

I know that there was a door on the top of the left rear spoiler (behind the headrest) , giving access to the fuel filler inlet,  and I just achieve to compare the kit part I cut off today and the ref photos: It's a shame, because the fuel door is wrong on the kit.

I've to redo the job !

 

And I know as well that the headrest profile is wrong, but I can't modify the kit part easily.

A solution would be to 3D drawing  and 3D printing it next, not a simple job as well....I've to think about it

 

 

13 minutes ago, Fastcat said:

The font of the racing number is not correct either although I think Mercedes corrected it on a more recent restoration. I don't think the Mercedes emblem on the front of the race car was raised, being either painted on or a decal, which might be to your advantage.

 

Exact for the font.

I don't know actually if I'll use Revell decals or intend to make new ones, or use templates and masking to paint them...One step after the previous one !

The emblem in front of the car was painted or stuck, but the rear one was raised

 

 

13 minutes ago, Fastcat said:

Sidelights weren't fitted to the race car but to make it road legal, they were on the Mercedes later version.

 

I hadn't noticed yet that point, thanks !

Sidelight will not be put on my model and their housings on the nose will be filled with putty

 

 

13 minutes ago, Fastcat said:

The headlights didn't have a chrome surround - it was black rubber.

 

Yes I know, and this will be done as black rubber

 

13 minutes ago, Fastcat said:

There are other differences but you need to check actual race photos if you want to build that version. If you want to build the Museum version the kit's fairly accurate for the year kitted but Mercedes changed details over the years.

You're dead right about the wheels - they're bad!

I also think the body's a bit slab sided but that's due to the moulding process and worth putting up with to have a model of the 300.

 

Dave

 

 

 

[CrazyCrank]

1 hour ago, modelbautony said:

In total agreement with all you say, Dave.

CrazyCrank, I'm working on this too. I have re-drawn the racing numbers in case you are interested and can let you have artwork for you to get printed yourself, if it helps (ignore 3s and YARDLEY, and stripes, they are of course for other subjects):

 

 

T

 

Wow ! Good job 👍

It's very kind of you @modelbautony to offer it to me 😎

Of. course, I accept your proposition: 

Could you send me the file of artwork by MP, please ?

[Fastcat]

Hi CrazyCrank,

                       I don't think the filler cap changed very much between the Mille Miglia cars and the Targa cars. As far as I know, only the access flap on top of the headrest changed. There were pictures on the net showing this  link     If you magnify this image you should find what you  need.

I scratch-built the headrests on my model but 3D printing would save a lot of filling and sanding. It would be a perfect solution.

I bought my decals and a set of p/e which included the rear badge and lettering from K & R Models who were marketing a kit version of the late John Haynes model at the time. It was a long time ago!

I think I showed it on here at the time but when Photobucket started charging, I stopped and didn't resume.

 

 

Dave

[CrazyCrank]

20 minutes ago, Fastcat said:

Hi CrazyCrank,

                       I don't think the filler cap changed very much between the Mille Miglia cars and the Targa cars. As far as I know, only the access flap on top of the headrest changed. There were pictures on the net showing this  link     If you magnify this image you should find what you  need.

I scratch-built the headrests on my model but 3D printing would save a lot of filling and sanding. It would be a perfect solution.

I bought my decals and a set of p/e which included the rear badge and lettering from K & R Models who were marketing a kit version of the late John Haynes model at the time. It was a long time ago!

I think I showed it on here at the time but when Photobucket started charging, I stopped and didn't resume.

 

 

Dave

 

Hi Dave

 

That's what I thought bout the filler cap

And yes, the access flap (fuel door) on top of the left headrest/spoiler is different between the real Mille Miglia 722 and its replica / Revell Kit

 

I just achieved to modify a spare part (headrest/spoiler) , cutting on it a more accurate fuel flap, and starting to sand the sides to give it a closer shape... this work isn't finished but you can see on the third photo below that the left headrest (on the right) has already a more acute triangle shape that the right one on the left.

The next step is to finishing the shaping of both headrests, making the fuel flap with 0,4 mm styrene sheet of aluminum sheet, and its hinge .

If the outcome is inconclusive, I'll try to 3D drawing/printing them.

 

  

 

 

I've also filled the side front lights housing with putty

 

 

And sanded off the added putty everywhere:

 

 

 

Actual state:

 

  

 

 

Stay tuned if you like 😎

 

 

 

[CrazyCrank]

Afternoon guys

 

 

Just achieved to scratch a fuel flap for the left headrest/spoiler, using 0.3 mm aluminum sheet...a long adjustment process, but it was worth it:

 

  

 

With the part just place on top of the headrest (the adjustment isn't correct of course, as the flap isn't definitely fixed onto the headrest.. I assure you that the shapes of the flap and hole match quite perfectly)