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Mercedes Benz 300 SLR n° 722 - Overall winner 1955 Mille Miglia, driven by Sir Stirling Moss - FINISHED


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Morning chaps :)

 

Serious things have begun...

I've scratch-built a hinge for the driver's door, made numerous dry fit to check the correct opening of the door, and finally fixed the hinge on the body.

It works without any friction or hard spot 😎

 

51763982826_5741b9f26d_c.jpg   51763982856_ff4a75f89a_c.jpg

 

51763151877_43179e284f_c.jpg   51764627389_9111f51bb5_c.jpg

 

The next step: glueing on interior of the driver's door the brass tubes in which the hinge have to slide, and testing the right closing of the door.

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

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Good afternoon Gentlemen :)

 

The driver's door is now in place and fitted flush with the body.

The hinge works perfectly.

 

Two issues though:

- 1. the assembly is quite tight, and I can't remove the door, pulling it with a normal strength...I don't dare pull any harder, fearing to break the system. So, I'll have to painting, clear-coating and polishing the door as it is now, i.e. fixed on the body 🥴

- 2. it remains a too wide gap between the front of the door and the opening, particularly seen from above. I must filled this gap with putty, difficult job since I can't remove the door !

 

Nevertheless, nothing that would be impossible 😉

 

51768037552_b1385a7b85_c.jpg   51769740785_6d0a6cd39b_c.jpg

 

51768037542_39f537bb9b_c.jpg   51769100493_7ce90e439d_c.jpg

 

51769740800_6e761f44a9_c.jpg

 

See you next week for next steps :)

 

Merry Christmas to all of you and your family 🍾😎

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I’m absolutely sure that you will manage to decrease the gap between door and body.

Merry Christmas to you too (and to all our friends here).

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2 hours ago, CrazyCrank said:

too wide gap between the front of the door and the opening

 

Would it be possible to add a shim of plastic card to either the leading edge of the door or the front edge of the door aperture.

 

  Stay safe and seasons greetings           Roger

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53 minutes ago, Hamden said:

 

Would it be possible to add a shim of plastic card to either the leading edge of the door or the front edge of the door aperture.

 

  Stay safe and seasons greetings           Roger

The gap has been filled with putty and the thoroughly sanded, little by little.

 

40 minutes ago, Vesa Jussila said:

I would try to do fix not fully in door side, but in front panel of it. But will it be then visible compared to co-driver side? Anyhow excellent work.

 

I've already fixed the gap in major part on the body panel in front of the door.

I've not totally fixed the gap, because there will be several layers of primer, paint and clear coat, which will increase the thickness.

 

Actually, I would say the gap is reduced from 60% in front of the door and 50% at the rear.

I've now to spray 2 coats of primer, with sanding in between and check if the door keeps on closing correctly, and if the gap is reduced enough and not too much everywhere.

 

All this preliminary work on the body is quite tedious and time consuming but is mandatory to get a perfect (hum, if possible) aspect before the painting job

 

 

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Good evening guys :)

 

Hope you all had a merry Christmas 😎

 

Back to my bench today, I had launched this night a 3D print of my 3D designed headrests....

I'm rather happy with the result, whose shape is good, and bottom curvature Ok with the body....

Unfortunately I made a mistake while measuring the original kit part and drawn it 7 mm shorter than it is !

So I just redid the design job and will print a draft this night (5 hours).

 

Nevertheless, I've made progress on the rest of the body, after several sessions of filling with putty, sanding, priming to reveal the imperfections etc.

 

Hereunder is the result that I guess it's the final one :

 

51779229876_158e04d0ce_c.jpg   51779477363_febff149f7_c.jpg

 

51779477388_c19dc005a6_c.jpg   51779871789_40540ab31f_c.jpg

 

51779477298_f41a140649_c.jpg   51779477298_f41a140649_c.jpg

 

51780263990_742bea39af_c.jpg   51779377426_e91541fdde_c.jpg

 

I'm particularly pleased with the nose of the car and the connections between the body sides and the vents.

Making the driver's door open like on the real car was a real challenge, and the result I got is quite nice, if not convincing.

 

the most difficult task has now arrived: to create two hinges between body and headrests, that are both perfectly horizontal and perfectly aligned, otherwise it will be impossible to lift the assembly they form with the trunk lid.

 

The piano hinges that exist on the real car are not difficult to make on a 1:24 scale, with 0.5 mm brass tube and 0.3 mm piano wire.

But the fact that they have to be functional complicates the task, as it may be difficult to glue each element solidly to the plastic parts without the glue spilling over to the adjacent elements, compromising the mobility of the whole set...
I'll try with a sacrificial piece, and if it's not conclusive, I may have another solution to allow the opening/closing of the trunk, which will be a compromise between the real and the possible.

 

I've to sleep on it, and before, to 3D  print new headrests and make adjustments.

 

Stay tuned if you like :)

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, Brandy said:

I love that door hinge.

I'm sure you'll manage the piano hinge, although I managed to buy some for my 1:12 Bentley from a dolls house supplier.

 

Ian

Thanks Ian

I promise I'll do my best :)

 

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Evening gentlemen :)

 

The second draft of my 3D printed headrests is far better than the first one, in terms of length, bottom curvature and global shapes.

 

Nevertheless, it's not satisfying, because what I didn't pay initilally attention to is the fact that, seen from the front, both headrests haven't a symmetrical  shape in relation to a centre vertical line starting from their top.

This is due to the curvature of the body behind the cabin.

 

To illustrate what I mean, it's enough to compare the picture below, from MB collection, and the following (in peculiar the 2 last ones) of what I get actually:

 

The 2 vertical lines are of course parallel and the headrests seem (and are) vertical on the real car, while the centre lines are inclined on my scale model.

 

51783748994_fecfaccec3_b.jpg

 

51783114896_247561faf4_b.jpgSans titre by Thierry Decorniquet, sur Flickr

 

51783114896_247561faf4_b.jpg   51782299372_2d1d72e6f8_b.jpg

 

51783114926_a72b8b7c61_b.jpg   51783366238_94a9582110_b.jpg

 

51782299322_3a419e0e99_b.jpg

 

So, I'm actually modifying the designs of the headrests in Fusion 360, to take this in account.

Obviously, the left and right headrests will be different, each of which being symmetrical to the other along a vertical axis passing frontally through the middle of the bodywork.

 

Hereunder pictures off the right headrest:

 

51782326807_42abfe74ff_b.jpg   51783142391_5275b087cb_b.jpg

 

3D printing planed for this night and tries for tomorrow.
I'll probably have to modify this draft to get a closer fitting between headrest and body, but, little by little, the shapes enhance.

 

Stay tuned if you like 😎

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Morning gentlemen :)

 

Disappointed today cause my 3D print of this new headrest failed, and I don't know why !

Perhaps too thin supports, or badly placed, or too old resin ?

So let's go for a new attempt, after some modifications.

For some practical reasons, particularly the long duration of the print (more than 6 hours), it will be done next night...

 

51783465937_78c407d9b7_c.jpg

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Well your supports were completely printed. You have separation at the points where they connect to your actual print so the endpoints seem to be too feeble. 

I also see that the screw which holds the vat at the right side is loose. If it was like this during printing, it will cause failure of separation between fep and your print, which in turn will leed to your print ending at the bottom of your vat.

 

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1 hour ago, Pouln said:

Well your supports were completely printed. You have separation at the points where they connect to your actual print so the endpoints seem to be too feeble. 

I also see that the screw which holds the vat at the right side is loose. If it was like this during printing, it will cause failure of separation between fep and your print, which in turn will leed to your print ending at the bottom of your vat.

 

The size of the endpoints has been set since several months to 0.3 mm and never changed.

The screws were perfectly tightened when the print started and ended...I've unscrewed them to inspect the VAT after the failed print, to see if the missing parts had sunk in the resin.

Thanks for your comment, Poul 👍

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Good afternoon, guys :)

 

The last batch came out correctly and after a little sanding to adjust the curvatures of the bottom side of the right headrest, it fits perfectly over the body on the outer side, but not on the inner one.

I could modify slightly the curvature on the Fusion design, but il would affect both sides, and probably the inner side would fit better, but the outer this time would not fit correctly.

 

I've so decided that this will remain as it is, the best being the enemy of the good 😉

Especially since once the headrest is glued on the trunk lid, this will be less visible...

 

51789615088_7612413ae5_c.jpg   51790234340_8f99d6c517_c.jpg

 

51790234335_f57fc6cf98_c.jpg   51790234330_f39731c7c3_c.jpg

 

Now, I've also modified the design of this right headrest, in order to get it easily movable with the hinge and I've designed as well the front part of the headrest which cover the edge of the body.

This could come out as shown below:

 

51789510276_e6dd11b5ed_c.jpg

 

51788567502_a8768896b3_c.jpg   51788567487_cca7ac736d_c.jpg.

 

it remains to be hoped that this small front part will be solid enough and will come out correctly during 3D printing. To increase the chances of this happening, I opted for an ABS resin.

 

You should notice that I've abandoned the idea to articulate both parts with a piano hinge...too complex to manage and probably less strong than needed to accept multiple lifts, as said @Fastcat

 

The major part could be articulated with the body, and the minor one could be glued in front of it on the body.

 

All this stuff will be printed next night and tomorrow morning could, hopefully, reveal a good start for 2022 new year :)

 

If it is the case, It will remain to design the two parts of the driver's headrest, and then to fabricate the hinges.

 

It is quite likely that this will not be achieved before I leave for Canada (if COVID 19 allows it).

 

Stay tuned for next steps 😎

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Hello gentlemen :) and Happy new you to everyone and yours 😉

 

I'm glad to show you my New Year production.

 

The right headrest design has been re-worked in Fusion, I found the functions which allowed to do that, so, I've managed to modify slightly the bottom curvature only on the tail of this part, and the result is that it fits now far better over the body.

After several tries, I've as well managed to print the front part of the headrest, which attach on the edge of the tub and will hide, partially, the hinge mechanism.

It's clearly not close to the real, but the illusion is there.

 

51794937539_ba4701c1e7_c.jpg   51794569221_fb17b500a4_c.jpg

 

51794692398_4f2891e4c1_c.jpg

 

On the top edge of the tiny front part will be glued a fake piano hinge, which will increase the illusion

 

Furthermore, I've designed in Fusion the 3 parts of the left headrest: its main body, the front part which attach on the edge of the tub, and the fuel flap.

 

51794692528_cb2cb4fe97_c.jpg   51794569466_94d43a3319_c.jpg

 

51794569486_93ab58f2c3_c.jpg

 

It remains to 3D print them.

 

Next, will come the hinges fabrication, a microscopic and delicate job, due to the thinness of the parts, and to the difficulty to adjust them for both headrests in order to allow a correct lift of the whole set.

 

Principle of the mechanism I'll intend to build:

 

51795341440_3869260697_b.jpg

 

Wish me good luck and stay tuned if you like  🥴

 

 

 

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Morning chaps :)

 

Hereunder the last 3D print batch with 3 parts of the driver's headrest. All came out perfectly 😎

 

51795162272_79940e8193_c.jpg   51796236698_62cf9dea49_c.jpg

 

51796111781_0c668ef4c1_c.jpg

 

Of course, the edges of the fuel flap opening will be thinned.

 

Staty tuned if you like 😉

 

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Good morning Gentlemen :)

 

A lot of problems with French administrations (the worst in the world) prevent me to sleep, so I'm working on this MB 300 SLR

 

The mechanism of the hinges for the headrests is being manufactured, and it's a lot of hard work.

 

So, I rested while making the hinge for the fuel flap on the driver's headrest:

 

51800836825_31b85183ab_c.jpg   51800469344_ed22796536_c.jpg

 

51800469394_381d905c6c_c.jpg   51800469404_3ceaca037f_c.jpg

 

51800836845_056b15d203_c.jpg

 

It's quite useless (except to show the fuel cap on the tank underneath) but it's fun :)

 

Stay tuned for next steps (It's more than likely that I couldn't travel to Canada next week due to strong epidemic of COVID 9 there) 😷

 

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Afternoon chaps :)

 

A bit of progress on the headrests hinges

 

Have scratched 4 plates in 0.3 mm thick brass sheet, 2 for each headrest.

The plats are not strictly identical and it remains a little bit of sanding to do to equalize them.

The head of each plate is a little "ring" drilled 0.4 mm, with 0,3 mm wall.

The 2 holes of each couple of "rings" will be threaded by a 0,4 mm rod, which will cross as well the inner and outer wall of the headrest.

4 Notches  will be placed at strategical points o the body, which will host the base of each  4 plate.

The height of the "rings" of each plate will be adjusted in order to get a perfectly horizontal steel rod for each headrest and to get the rods aligned as if they were only one.

So, when I'll lift the headrests, they will lift in strictly parallel plans, allowing to lift the trunk lid correctly in the same time, without putting torsional stress on the hinges.

 

Hummm, have you understood what I mean ?

Hereunder some pictures to illustrate my goal:

 

51802230370_1c182302c4_c.jpg   51801621413_f1c0beaf27_c.jpg

 

51801621498_6d5b056159_c.jpg   51802230275_df56329671_c.jpg

 

51801864729_981ac5c103_c.jpg   51801621523_b0b217e4ab_c.jpg

 

51801621513_dd3d38191e_c.jpg

 

The front part of the headrest need also to be sanded to get straight and even.

 

Step by step, the projet is moving forward 😎

 

Stay tuned for next step :)

 

 

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Afternoon guys :)

 

The fabrication of the hinges for the headrests and the trunk lid has progressed.

Notches have been cut off with a jeweler saw (0.3 mm thick blade), I've threaded together with the same steel rod the two headrests, and the 2 hinges inside of each one, inserted the hinges into the notches,  joined temporarily the trunk lid and the headrests with masking tape, and made a little video, to see how it works, and to show you as well the result.

It works apparently without constraint, and the two headrests remain parallel during the lifting of the trunk lid.

So, it seems OK and ready for painting.

But before, I've to glue the two headrests on the trunk lid, in strictly correct position. My God, another challenge to face !

 

 

Stay tuned for next adventures 😎

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Afternoon gentlemen :)

 

Headrests and trunk lid glued together, after several checks to ensure a strictly correct position of the parts.

After that, it remained little gaps between headrests and trunk lid, so, I've got the putty out of its shelf and applied a first coat where necessary :)

 

So I'm currently at this point:

 

51806330855_9631a9d315_c.jpg   51806330850_f38fc8b98c_c.jpg

 

51805721293_cdae28f629_c.jpg

 

Of course, after sanding, it will probably still remain some gaps, needing more filling...no problem !

Obviously, the unique steel rod I used to align perfectly the headrests will be replaced by 2 small rods, which I hope to make as little visible as possible 🙄 (another challenge)

 

I hope to be able to prime the whole body before leaving for Canada (Finally, we leave :) )

 

It's not visible but I've sanded the "3 point star MB emblem" and the inscription "300 SLR", because I've planed to replace them by photo-etched parts.

I own a MB 3 points star emblem, good point

And I own a "300 SL" undesigned Photoetched part.

The letter "R" is lacking
BUT, I've studied several tutorials on Youtube, explaining how making simply at home photo-etched parts, without spending a lot of money, and I decided to embark on the adventure... but it's another story 😉

 

See you soon :)

 

 

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