Mercedes Benz 300 SLR n° 722 - Overall winner 1955 Mille Miglia, driven by Sir Stirling Moss - FINISHED

[CrazyCrank]

8 minutes ago, Fastcat said:

Strictly speaking there was almost no weathering until later in the race as it was dry but by this time the care was looking distinctly second-hand. There was a large dent in the front where Moss hit a hay bale and a big dent in the driver's headrest where a mechanic was slow in getting clear after refuelling. So there's plenty of weathering but it depends on the stage of the race being modelled. See car in garage after the race.

 

Dave

Thanks Dave for the infos. it's too late now for the dents, but some dust here and there could bring the car to life, couldn't it ?

[CrazyCrank]

Afternoon gentlemen

 

I'm currently working on the bodywork, since the chassis is complete.

 

There's a lot of work to do, and first, replacing the clear parts Revell supplied to represent the  rear lights. 

 

Indeed , there's only two lights on each part, as on the 300 SLR Uhlenhaut, while on the 300 SLR racing, there was 3 lights, 2 red and 1 orange, on each side.
The kits part can't be modified, so I needed an alternative solution...

 

Here is the solution I thought about:
- 3D printing the chrome housing of the 3 lights, 
- Glue it in place. Painted before or after... we need to think about it, and to have an idea, I'll made my try test with a painted one
- on the inner side of the housing, which is opened, close the hole with a bit of styrene sheet
- Fill the 3 holes from outdoor with colored UV resin, red, and orange, and cure it

 

Obviously, being not 100% sure that it will work, I've made my tests with the second bodywork.

 

Design with Fusion 360:

 

 

The part is 11.26 mm large, 2.16 mm wide and 0.3 mm thick, except the 2 pillars which will allow later to separate the cavity ( lights housing) of the bodywork in 3 parts, in order to avoid the different resins to leak and mix one each other

 

3D printed parts: 

 

 

One part cleaned and glued on the bodywork

 

 

The cavity closed with a piece of styrene

 

 

The lights housing painted with Molotov Liquid Chrome

 

 

After filling one of the three holes with red colored UV resin, (dirty job because I wanted to go fast for the test, and didn't use the good tool to pour the resin), UV curing, and Molotov Chrome touch ups:

 

 

The test has been made on the most inner light, with red colored resin.

You could believe it's orange, but it's an artefact due to the strong light I used to take the picture. the proof: you can also see that a small amount of red resin went into the centre light housing.

 

Well, it works rather fine, and I think I'll use this method to make the final lights on the painted bodywork.

It remains to improve it, to think about the best method to use to pour the resin and decide wether I paint the chrome part before or after

 

See you later for next episode

 

[Steben]

One must almost regret this thread will end one day.

[CrazyCrank]

54 minutes ago, Steben said:

One must almost regret this thread will end one day.

Thank you very much, Steben, for this huge compliment 👍

 

Don't worry, it's far to be finished, and others thread will follow

 

[Spiny]

You mentioin pouring the UV resin, but for such a small piece as these lenses are would you get better control by using a cocktail stick to transfer the resin. That's probably the method I'd use, although I fully appreciate my skills are very much lacking compared to the superb job you're doing here. But one big advantage of the resin is that you don't have to do it in one go, you can keep dipping your cocktail stick again and again until you have enough resin in the recess and only then apply the UV light.

 

I have to agree with you that thie UV resin method is working very well here for the lights.

[CrazyCrank]

42 minutes ago, Spiny said:

You mentioin pouring the UV resin, but for such a small piece as these lenses are would you get better control by using a cocktail stick to transfer the resin. That's probably the method I'd use, although I fully appreciate my skills are very much lacking compared to the superb job you're doing here. But one big advantage of the resin is that you don't have to do it in one go, you can keep dipping your cocktail stick again and again until you have enough resin in the recess and only then apply the UV light.

 

I have to agree with you that thie UV resin method is working very well here for the lights.

 

I'm far to master Shakespeare's language , and I've used the verb "pour" unwisely !

 

In fact, I've used a cocktail stick and transferred the resin little by little, as you would do, but its point is too big, or I'm clumsy !

I think I have to use a worn airbrush needle to make the job, and I do have one  (0.15) available

 

It will be a time consuming job, but it will work better !

Cheers

CC

[Spiny]

Your English is much better than my French - I think I can just about get to "Ma voiture est vert et orange" when it comes to speaking modelling in French so I certainly wouldn't pull you up on that. I do know where you're coming from with regards to cocktail sticks sometimes getting a bit blunt, especially when glue or resin builds up on the end and makes them larger. More than once I've taken a blade to mine and sharpened the point to get a finer end.

[CrazyCrank]

Evening guys 🙂

 

Finally, after careful consideration, I've decided to paint the rear lights housing with chrome paint, before glueing them on the body, and, obviously, before scratching the lights with colored UV resin.

Why ?... because it's easier following this way to get a neat paint !

Even if it will complicate later the following job !

 

I've painted the printed parts with Gravity Colors MacLaren Chrome set: a glossy black base and a high quality chrome paint.

Once the 2 layers airbrushed, you get a very shiny chrome, quite comparable to what you would get with Molotov Liquid Chrome, and much less sensitive to handling.

 

However, because there will be a lot of handling, I thought it was necessary to protect the chrome with a clear coat.

 

OK, but which one ?

Each modeler has his recipe, but it's difficult to get your proper idea !

 

So, I've made some tries:

- 1/ Using Alclad Aqua Gloss Clear ALC600

- 2 / Using the method recommended by Gravity Colors for its McLaren Chrome set: spray some thin layers of Gravity Colors Chrome Sealer, let it dry thoroughly, and then spray any Gloss clear coat you want

- 3/ Using the cheaper method: spraying directly on the CG chrome, without GC Sealer, 2 layers of Future (Pledge Floor Gloss) 

 

The winner, without a doubt, is Future, in terms of shine

The second is ALC600

And the third of course, GC Sealer +  Mr, Super Clear Gloss, which is excellent too.

 

So, I've plugged from the inside, with some strips of styrene, the rear lights housing, and painted the inside of the housings with Molotov Liquid Chrome, so that the light is well reflected later through the colored light caps.

 

  

 

Once fully cured, I've glued the chromed surroundings of the lights, and scratched them with UV resin, using finally, as suggested @Spiny, a cocktail stick which point had been previously sharpened, and it worked well 😎

 

 

Again and surprisingly, the two inner lights appear orange, while I put Red colored resin, and the outer light appear red, while I've put Orange colored resin ! 😲

 

I've also put some mesh on the inner side of the bodywork nose, and on the inner side of the cabin ventilations air intake fairings . The pictures showed me that it remain a defect on the centre fairing mesh, that I'll fix later

 

 

 

 

Then I've improved the lenses of the front lights

Revell's kit supplies 2 grooved and chromed plastic parts to represent the front lights !

 

I've used two decals supplied by Indycals, the brand which provided the numerals "722" decals, and I've covered them with UV clear resin, little by little, until I get the result below:

 

 

At last, I  began to work on the windshield .

The kit's part has a good and right shape, but the plastic is too thick , 1.2 mm at 1:24 scale, which are 28+ mm at 1:1 !

 

So, I've decided to modify it:

- First, I made a template of the windshield shape sticking masking tape on it, and cutting the shape thoroughly.

- Then, I unstuck the masking tape of the kit's windshield and stuck it on a clear PVC sheet 150 microns thick

- Next, I used my jeweler's saw to cut off the glass of the windshield, keeping only its metallic bolted frame

- I sanded carefully the remaining frame and decreased its thickness

 

  

 

  

 

The next operation, after painting the frame, will be to glue the PVC sheet on the inner side of the frame, with micro-micro-droplets of CA glue. A try delicate job indeed 😨

Please, pray for me 🙄

 

Stay connected for following episodes

 

 

[Marco F.]

🙏🙏🙏 I hope it will help, you will get it right 

Marco F 

[CrazyCrank]

Evening chaps

 

I've stripped the paint of all chromed parts because they were too clinky: Licence plate, decorative lateral strips, knock-off nuts of the wheels etc.

 

The parts I've just painted (all chromed parts plus 3D printed 300 SLR  inscription for trunk, and windshield frame ) are drying.

 

Meanwhile, I've worked on the ovale grill which close the air direct intake on the the bonnet.

 

The Revell's kit supplies a grey plastic part, fully opaque, coarsely striated, which is supposed to represent a thin meshed  grill. This stuff :

 

 

I initially thought of using the same mesh as for the grille, but the mesh is too big, so I ordered (thanks to @Flying Badger Lotus's post) stainless steel filtre screen mesh n° 120 (which means 0.125mm hole, 80µm wire diameter, 33% open area ) from UK.

 

I received the parcel this afternoon and decided to take some tries, using first my spare bonnet, which is not painted

 

And I got quickly (second attempt) this result, probably perfectible, but already acceptable and much more convincing:

 

  

 

 

Probably  I'll make a third attempt, now I know how working on this material, to get if possible, a far better result

 

It remains to fabricate the frame of this grill and to glue it on the mesh after some painting job:

 

 

As you can see, the frame of this grid has a thin ring and 3 vertical posts plus 2 horizontal posts.

 

I'll try to represent them...probably with 0.18 or 0.25 nickel-chrome wire.

 

Stay tuned if you like and thanks for any kind of comments you'd do

 

 

[Bengalensis]

Good work. 👍 That air intake is one of those details that will pay off well to get right.

[CrazyCrank]

Evening guys

 

Only a little bit of progress today :

 

I've printed an army of inscriptions "300 SLR" for the trunk, in different heights and thickness and have compared the prints with the inscription that I've left on my spare bodywork and on the references photos, in order to see if the 3D print could be convenient or not, and to choose eventually the one that is closed to the reality/

And I finally concluded that there was no need to invest in photoengraving equipment, because 3D printing, even of such small and thin parts, is perfectly suitable

So, I've painted chrome and clear coated about twenty inscriptions (they are so fragile that they break at the slightest breath and it was so better to have a reserve)

 

  

 

  

 

I've also designed and 3D printed some Mercedes Benz emblems (the 3 points star), for the trunk as well, and after 2 tries, got a rather good result :

 

 

The part is 6.16 mm diameter, and 0.35 mm maximum thickness !

 

I've 18 usable emblems and I've primed 6 of them tonight.

They will be painted chrome tomorrow if weather allows.

 

At last, I've painted Alclad polished aluminium the windshield frame:

 

 

And I've also painted a second set of different parts such knock-off wheel nuts, licence plate, because I've had an issue with the first ones (the chrome paint chipped off the black base, and even after cleaning with IPA, I couldn't get them as clean as I needed)

 

It doesn't look like it, but it takes a lot of time to make all those little exterior details that are so important to the final result 🙄

 

Thanks for watching

 

Stay tuned if you like 😎
 

 

[Flemming]

Nice build!

[Flying Badger]

On 6/21/2022 at 7:49 PM, CrazyCrank said:

I initially thought of using the same mesh as for the grille, but the mesh is too big, so I ordered (thanks to @Flying Badger Lotus's post) stainless steel filtre screen mesh n° 120 (which means 0.125mm hole, 80µm wire diameter, 33% open area ) from UK.

 

 

  

 

 

That is looking great. I'm finding the mesh is not bad to work with, although the edges can be sharp!

Glad I could be of help as I've been following your build from the start... superb attention to detail by the way and lots of inspiration

Flying Badger.

[CrazyCrank]

8 hours ago, Flemming said:

Nice build!

Thank you so much 👍

I did my best

 

7 hours ago, Flying Badger said:

That is looking great. I'm finding the mesh is not bad to work with, although the edges can be sharp!

Glad I could be of help as I've been following your build from the start... superb attention to detail by the way and lots of inspiration

Flying Badger.

Thank you so much for this kind comment, much appreciated coming from you 😎

[Pouln]

You keep bringing on very nice details, Thierry. Great stuff! 

[CrazyCrank]

22 hours ago, Pouln said:

You keep bringing on very nice details, Thierry. Great stuff! 

 

Thank you very much, Poul, for your kind words.

As you, I do my best

I'm happy you follow carefully my build 👍

[CrazyCrank]

Evening, gentlemen

 

As I said two days ago, the final details fabrication id always time consuming.

 

I've faced some repetitive paint issues with the Gravity chrome set and consequently I've had to redo the job several times, for the license plate and the decorative lateral strips.

I cross my fingers, hoping the last attempt on those strips will come out nicely.

 

But the job is done for the licence plate, which has received its decal and has been placed on the bodywork.

 

 

The knock-off wheel nuts are ready as well, and are not too shiny , as I want it to be:

 

 

The MB star emblem seems to be perfect after painting job. But let's see what will happen when I cut off the 3D print supports

 

 

I've spent a lot of time to design and print a new part for the car, which will take place on the inner side of the bonnet, on the air intake aperture.

 

I took inspiration of this photo:

 

I had to draw it by guesswork, and had to do four 3D printing trials (90 minutes each time) before finding the right shape and size.

 

  

 

  

 

  

 

And I still don't know if this part will allow to close correctly the bonnet because of the underlying engine that could come into conflict with it!
Indeed, to know it, the part would have to be already glued in place under the bonnet, with the bonnet permanently installed with its hinge on the body.

 

And so we go in circles !
I think it should fit, but I'm not absolutely sure.

 

So I decided to glue this part only at the end of the assembly, and first temporarily, with Micro Cristal Klear (repositionable glue). If it doesn't work, we'll do without it, otherwise everything will be perfect!

 

See you soon, hopefully 

 

[Bengalensis]

Nice! That air intake part should also improve the look behind the screen in the bonnet, when viewed from outside.

[Toftdale]

You're a braver man than me to take a saw to the wind screen, but I know the end result will be well worth your effort - Andy

[Hamden]

 

More and more detail this is a really stunning replica build with no limits!

 

     Stay safe           Roger

[CrazyCrank]

14 hours ago, Bengalensis said:

Nice! That air intake part should also improve the look behind the screen in the bonnet, when viewed from outside.

 

Thank you Jörgen 😎 

The air intake won't be visible through the screen, imho .

 

14 hours ago, Toftdale said:

You're a braver man than me to take a saw to the wind screen, but I know the end result will be well worth your effort - Andy

 

Thanks a lot, Andy.

But I'm no so brave you could imagine....I had and have still a spare windshield

 

14 hours ago, Hamden said:

 

More and more detail this is a really stunning replica build with no limits!

 

     Stay safe           Roger

 

Thanks for this kind praise, Roger . Much appreciated 👍

[CrazyCrank]

Evening guys

 

Not a lot of progress today, because minor health issues.

I felt better this evening and so went on enhancing the bonnet.

 

First, I've painted the inner side black and sprayed a coat of flat clear on it.

 

Then, I've scratched the system which retains the bonnet when It's opened:

- I used 0.6 mm aluminium tube, 0.3 mm steel rod, and 0.3 mm aluminium plate.
- Cut a 3 mm section of alu tube, that I flattened on 2 mm.
- Drilled a 0.3 mm hole o the flattened end, and filed this end to reduce and round it`
- inserted the 1 mm other end onto a section of 0.3 mm steel rod and glue with with CA glue
- So was realized the retaining bar, that, of course, will be functional.
- Then I cut off the alu plate a section of 0.8 mm wide and bout 6 mm long
- I bended it in order to get a kind of "U" which horizontal width is about  0.8 mm
- drilled a 0.3 mm hole on the two vertical sections of the "U", at about 0.6 mm of the horizontal leg of the U
- Cut off the excess of the vertical sections o the U, and rounded with a file the end of the vertical legs
- And I inserted a 0.3 mm rod through the 2 holes of this aluminum "U", and through the flattened end of the retaining bar that I placed previously between he 2 vertical legs,  trapping it

 

  

 

  

 

  

 

  

 

Next, I've scratched the locker for the retaining bar when the bonnet is close, using a thin strip of alu sheet, that I shaped with pliers

 

  

 

At last, I've glued on the air intake aperture the grill I made 2 days ago.

 

  

 

 

It remains to attach the bonnet onto the bodywork and then to paint and glue the 3D printed part I made yesterday.

 

Thats all for now, folks

 

 

[CrazyCrank]

Afternoon gentlemen

 

I'm realizing that I forgot to explain you how I made the air intake grill frame:

- The frame hasn't be glued on the grill, but fabricated in the aperture
- And the grill has been put upon the frame, glued with some droplets of Micro Kristal Clear (transparent once dried)
- The frame below the grill prevent it to drop through the aperture

 

The surrounding ha been made with a square rod of styrene 0.6 mm x 0.6 mm, that I've bended progressively and carefully after having put it in very hot water.
To get the right shape, I used my spare bonnet, in order not to damage the right one.
Once in place, the surrounding has been glued from its underside with Tamiya extra thin cement.
Once dried, I've drille 0.3 mm holes through this plastic rod, 3 on the rear and 3 on the front

 

Then I've fabricated the vertical and horizontal bars with 0.3 mm steel rod sections:

- The vertical ones are slightly longer than needed, and are inserted in the holes I drilled previously. The excessive length is used to bend them upward, following the bonnet curvature 
- The horizontal ones have been glued on the plastic surrounding from the inside (Yes, I cheated !)  and keep straight

 

Today, the bonnet has been placed on the bodywork, and its hinge trapped with the kit's part.

 

 

The hinge works well. I'm just a bit disappointed because, due to the kit's engineering, the bonnet can't open as much as I expected (Much more however than on the photo above)  Indeed the thickness of the hinge molded on the bonnet is a bit excessive and prevent the movement to go completely forward.

And this can't be fixed, unfortunately.

 

The decorative chromed lateral strips have been placed

 

 

The front lights are finished

 

 

Now, it remains the most difficult tasks:
- Install and fix the headrests/trunk set hinges using the parts I fabricated several months ago.

- Glue my new windshield glass on its frame.

 

One day at a time is enough

 

[johnlambert]

Incredible work, I'm really enjoying this build.