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Sevans Dalek restoration


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Managed to get a Sevan's MK2 from auction, it's was badly constructed from the offset and missing gun rods and parts of the plunger  arm Inc the plunger itself . Decided to completely dissasemble with carefull use of  blunt  modeling knife and dentist tools . Here's a few shots of it as it arrived.

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Edited by pockets
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Have  broken it back down to component parts and attempting to remove the paint with Mr muscle  in  ziplock bags the black matt is coming off  but the gold is proving to be stubborn, any ideas on a better product to use on styrene to remove thick metallic gold enamel paint ? 51726041973_70f6222d84_z.jpg

Edited by pockets
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The midsection is  going to be the most problematic part to repair and has not faired well , the top part on the join where  the neck bin attatches is very distorted and damaged . I'm going to attempt to repair and strenthen with some styrene sheet Also the appendage  holes are in a right state.51725015097_e9d5dc931e_z.jpg51726701780_1b4547fa38_z.jpg

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1 hour ago, pockets said:

any ideas on a better product to use on styrene to remove thick metallic gold enamel paint ?

Many folks on here swear by immersing in Dettol, but not tried it personally.     I have used Screwfix No Nonsense  paint stripper,   but I'd test out first to make sure it doesn't do anything funny to the specific plastic. 

 

If you google 'Britmodeller paint stripper'  you find various discussions.

 

Neat project.

 

HTH

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Am a member of a Sevans and garage kit group on a social media site and one of the members tried Dettol on the skirt section  of his refurb and it made the plastic go soft and distorted on one of the panels so that's a no no.  Was thinking about either that or Bio strip 20, is the NO nonsense a gell or liquid and what was the procedure u used?

Edited by pockets
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21 hours ago, pockets said:

Was thinking about either that or Bio strip 20, is the NO nonsense a gell or liquid and what was the procedure u used?

regarding the No Nonsense paint stripper,  it's a gel, you paint on, leave it on,  test it to see how/if it softens/lifts,  then scrub off with warm water an washing up liquid.

It was does make a gunky corrosive mess, so wear gloves.   Obviously test on a area first.

 

HTH 

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This is the result of 12hrs and a scrub and 24hrs and a scrub after using the MR Muscle , removed the black but hasn't really had a huge amount of success on the metallic gold .  Have ordered some Biostrip 20 hopefully that'll do the job.              51728997086_e4a163ceae_z.jpg

Edited by pockets
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10 minutes ago, pockets said:

On enamel or acrylic?

If I remember well both. At least acrylic and tammy , don't remember well because it was a long time ago, nut I think I used it also with humbrol lacquer. Applied with a brush then wait sometime and than brush the paint out almost easily and completely. That's a wonderful product my wife uses in the kitchen for cleaning hard things.

Cheers

LM

Edited by Lazy Modeller
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Coming along for the journey👍 I have a Davros and this Dalek in bits in my spares and repairs pile( Didn't survive a house move about 20 years ago) 

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I believe I still have the instructions somewhere, and I traced some of the parts like the "bands" that wraps around the shoulder. I should be able to scan those if needed. 
 

Will need a slight correction as I traced it, so it some plans will be a pencil width thicker

 

And if it all goes wrong, you can always fall back to making one of the SEvans Exterminated models

 

 

3fd1e-1_5_dalek_instructions_3.jpeg

Edited by Aku
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Thanks for the offer chap but think  another helpfull fellow Sevans builder  is sending me a set of plans along with some dome light and a plunger , but many thanks for the offer .

Edited by pockets
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Have fettled the mitres on the the skirt panels  with a flat file , then trial fitted them to check joints,     Also gave them a final clean up with some water and 800 wetndry , and reglued the panels to base and top frame  in the order suggested by the plans , just have to add some plasticard strips to inside of the joints.

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Edited by pockets
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Have been concentrating on  repairing and stregthening  the shoulders and  sorting the appendage orifices by making some inserts and then  chamfering  them  by PVA ing some sandpaper onto one of the balls to get the correct angle after cutting out the centers with the aid of a circle cutter and then realigned and glued  the outer plasticard gunbox covers

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I was able to keep the arms stable by having a piece of soft foam between the balls and the the box on the inside of the arms. Even if you have already glued the box on the inside, you could still work a piece behind the balls by going in from the front opening and pushing in using a flat blade screwdriver

 

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Made some trefoil neckbin strutts  from 1.6mm brass rod to replace the less accurate kit supplied ones which were  beyond reuse anyway and trial fitted after elongating holes of the neck ring . Took some time to  get them all squared up but worth it.                                                                                     

 

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