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Curtiss SOC-3 Seagull - Hasegawa 1/72


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  • 2 weeks later...

Nice models, but the top wing surface should be yellow on both planes. Also. The horizontal tails should be the same colour as the vertical tail on both aircraft, which was the regulation for aircraft of the Battleship Squadrons.

Plenty of photos around showing this....

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21 hours ago, Roger Holden said:

Nice models, but the top wing surface should be yellow on both planes. Also. The horizontal tails should be the same colour as the vertical tail on both aircraft, which was the regulation for aircraft of the Battleship Squadrons.

Plenty of photos around showing this....

@Roger HoldenErr, are you sure you're not thinking of USAAC? 

 

All the USN,  USM and USCG interwar aircraft photos I've seen have top wing only painted yellow, lower in aluminium; apart from trainers "Yellow Peril".  There's also "Dive Bomber" with Errol Flynn and Fred McMurray.

 

I think you're right about tailfeathers though.

 

Cheers

Will

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1 hour ago, Roger Holden said:

Nope; he's built one on wheels and given it a silver top wing upper surface, when it should be yellow, same as the one on floats....

Ahh apologies, I misunderstood your earlier comment.  I confused “both planes” as meaning mainplane and lower plane of a biplane rather than two aircraft! 

Still you did make me go and look at the “Dive Bomber” trailer again so that was a bonus!

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On 1/30/2022 at 11:18 AM, Roger Holden said:

Nice models, but the top wing surface should be yellow on both planes. Also. The horizontal tails should be the same colour as the vertical tail on both aircraft, which was the regulation for aircraft of the Battleship Squadrons.

Plenty of photos around showing this....

Thanks for the info @Roger Holden

I'm trying to correct the mistakes ... Hope I don't make a mess 😬

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2 hours ago, Rod The Fixer said:

 

I'm trying to correct the mistakes ... Hope I don't make a mess 😬

I admire your bravery; the tails shouldn't be too bad, but the wing is probably quite difficult.

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Hi Rod,

 

Beautiful models - the errors for the color schemes seem to be Hasegawa's not yours.  I normally wouldn't comment on the errors, but since you've mentioned that you're going to attempt a repaint, the following notes might be useful.  These notes apply to the SOC-3 only; the SOC-1 and -2 had different painting instructions.

 

The wing colors here are VERY unusual because the aircraft had what was at that time known as a composite wing: the forward part of the wing was aluminum skinned, while the after part of the wing was fabric covered.  Before the SOC-3 went into production the Navy decided to wrap the upper surface Orange Yellow around to the first 5% of the undersurface.  That meant that the painters would have painted Orange Yellow lacquer on the first 5% of underside leading edge, aluminum lacquer on the rest of the underside aluminum skin, and aluminum dope on the fabric.  The entire leading edge slat system, top and bottom, would have been Orange Yellow.  This was too much painting for the Fleet's preferences, so BuAer ordered all SOC-3s delivered with the entire aluminum-skinned leading edge (top and bottom) painted with aluminum lacquer, the upper surface fabric painted with Orange Yellow dope, and the leading edge slats (top and bottom) with Orange Yellow lacquer.  It's a unique scheme, but photos show both your aircraft painted this way.  If you choose to paint your models in this previously undocumented scheme, folks are bound to tell you that you're wrong, but you won't be.

 

In the Pacific SOC-3s (and earlier Seagulls) received this same scheme during overhauls, but in the Atlantic (where New York was based) the depot chose to repaint the entire aluminum leading edge - top and bottom - Orange Yellow.  Eventually Atlantic and Pacific Seagulls were exchanged following overhauls, with both commands complaining that the other side got it wrong.  BuAer was foced to step in again and decided (this time) that painting the entire aluminum-skinned leading edge Orange Yellow made more sense, so both aircraft would eventually been repainted this way, though they were probably transferred to other ships by that time.

 

Still, you've got choices.

 

One final word - the yellow unit tail color would have been Lemon Yellow, a lighter, cooler yellow than the Orange Yellow used on the wings.

 

Sorry for all the extra problems, but I hope this is more of a help than a complaint - those are both beautiful Seagull models!

 

Cheers,

 

 

 

Dana

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On 2/6/2022 at 2:18 PM, Bejay53 said:

Great work!

that diorama base would make a “how to” article on it’s own!

 

 

On 2/6/2022 at 9:04 PM, billn53 said:

👆 What Bejay53 said. I want to know — the base looks great (the Seagull even better)!

 

Hi Bejay53 and billn52,

i'll illustrate the process to make a resin water base using the pictures describing the creation of a base for a USS class submarine (the sequence is the same)

 

1. Make a plexiglass box,  I glued the pieces with a specific glue (acrifix), and test the model fitting

49980353707_815003d018_c.jpg

by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr

 

2. 24 hours later make a test with water to check the impermeability

3. Make a thin layer (max. 0,5 cm or 1,9 in.) of transparent epoxy resin (I used E-30 water effect PROCHIMA) mixed with a small amount of blue or green color to maintain the transparency

4. put the model on the surface

49980353657_9f4108901f_c.jpg

by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr

 

5. wait at last 24h

49980100616_82f26e325d_c.jpg

by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr

 

6. if you want you can add more transparent epoxy resin layer (always max 0,5 cm thin) until the desired height is reached

49991841201_68b00138a5_c.jpg

] by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr

 

7. carefully remove the plexiglass box

49995277856_a7ed2cefd1_c.jpg

by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr

 

8. Use the transparent  acrilic product (for example Woodland Scenic Water Waves Surface or AK WATER GEL TRANSPARENT for example) to make wave and ...  the base is done! 😀

50002040141_ab2f6a2ebd_c.jpg

by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr

 

another example

 

49672557113_ea0f364a7a_c.jpg

by Rodolfo Masti, on Flickr

 

I hope the explanation is useful for you

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Thank you, Rod! I’m putting your resin water method into my mental list of modeling techniques. Since we’re sharing, here’s something I recently did with a couple of resin products:

 

51804559051_90c7aa3b1d_b.jpg


Described in more detail here:

 

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235104342-icex-submarine-surfaced-in-arctic-ice/

 

This may not have many applications for aircraft modelers, but then again, we’re a pretty imaginative group!

 

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