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1/48 Hasegawa Ki-100-I Koh Goshikisen - Type 5 Fighter


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After starting my Ki-49 the other week I have run into a foe I know all to well, the good old loss of mojo for a project. This is why I like to have a couple of things on the go. So with that thought in mind let me introduce project #2 on the bench at the moment, Hasegawa's Ki-100-I-Koh in 1/48

 

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After enjoying my little Ki-61 build recently this was calling to me! The Ki-100 was developed after the Mitsubishi Ha-112-II radial engine was fitted as an emergency measure to the Ki-61 airframe in place of the Kawasaki Ha-40 inverted V-12 inline engine. The result was one of the best interceptors used by the IJAAF during the war. First flying in February 1945, it arrived to late to make to much of a difference to the war. The first model, the Ki-100-I-Koh, were actually converted Ki-61 airframes and I am wanting to depict this fact during the build process.

 

So to start off with I don't plan to add any serious aftermarket goodies to the build. I may add detail here and there but nothing crazy at all. The sprues are all typical Hasegawa quality so not a huge amount of clean up is needed. Most parts were clipped from the frames, cleaned up and test fitted. The sub assemblies that could be put together were, including the wings. After a quick test fit to the taped together fuselage I found the wing roots to be a good join but were out of shape and very flexible. Some quick  adjustments & reinforcements & were made from some sprue framing 

 

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Then the belly faring was added. I found it slightly out of shape and at this point I could get the pressure on all area's that needed glue so on it went

 

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The other problem area was the top fuselage mounted machine guns. The part that needs to be added is coming up short so some card was added to the rear and sanded until the required thickness was obtained 

 

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So with these problems solved it was onto the cockpit. Although missing some details, it's pretty good for what it is. A couple of framing holes were opened up & I proceeded to build up the majority of the pit into it's main sub assemblies before painting. As my aircraft is one of the converted I used a Khaki drab colour rather than the olive drab colour Hasegawa points out, though I did add a couple of pieces in Olive Drab,  such as the base of the seat & the selector panel, just to represent some exchanged/added parts

 

And just like that it's painted 😁

 

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I also painted the wheel wells as it's the same colour as the cockpit.

 

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Eduard belts were added to the seat for extra detail, always a great addition 

 

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A touch of artistic flair for the armoured head rest. I decided to paint it steel as if it were a replacement/exchanged part that was yet to be painted 

 

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And finally the IP. This was painted black/khaki, then the kit's decal was added. After some Mr Mark setter & softener it was ready for some weathering, then some UV resin for the dial faces. Quick and easy!

 

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The Ha-112-II engine. The kit's detail is good, with the front & back row moulded together. I added the ignition wires, not that you will see much once the prop & spinner is in front of it 

 

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Last but not least I started work on the drop tanks, still more to add 

 

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And that's it so far. The next set of parts are cleaned and ready for work over the weekend.

 

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Managed to get some time at the table over the weekend and get some more achieved

 

First thing first was getting the fuselage buttoned up which ended up going quite well. The only filler needed ended up being on the underside where one half was slightly scappled in towards the joint. I then test fit the canopy and to my disappointment it's way to wide for the opening. So out with the boiling water to bring the sides in

 

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Left in there for 5 minutes then into the freeze for a sec to cool it down. Pretty much bang on, maybe a touch to far but 100 times better than what I started with. Downside was some stress marks across the top though after 2 baths in future it's looking pretty good. 

 

Next job was to put something in the open oil cooler on the underside of the cowl. Thinking of what I could use I remembered that this kit has both the radiators for the Ki-61 on the sprue so out with the cutters and it quickly went from this:

 

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To This:

 

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Job Done! Next was wings on, then a black prime, sand & blend then a second coat of black before the final sand. Here she is with that final sand done and left to dry for the next 24 hours at least to hopefully bring out any ghost seams etc 

 

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I am glad I spent the time getting the wing root's and the underside wing connection correct at the start as it's paying dividends now.

 

The prop, landing gear & exhaust are also now complete, just got to take some pics. Hopefully all the bodywork will be good and I can blend the black in once more ready for the natural metal underside to go down. 

 

 

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12 hours ago, Jackman said:

 

Splendid attention to details.  That cockpit and even the weathering on the drop tanks...WOW! 😲

How did you get the paint chipping effect in the cockpit? Thank you. 

 Many thanks! The cockpit chipping was created using masking solution applied with a sponge. Takes a couple of goes to get the pattern just right but easy enough and looks the part 

 

I have also managed to get some pics of the prop, gear and exhaust, though they were taken last night and not the best quality

 

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Still playing with the weathering on the wheels but will finalised when I am getting towards the end. Brake lines have been added from thin copper wire

 

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More chipping on the rear of the blade than the front as you would normally see plus I tried to go a touch thinner with the paint towards the tip

 

I also love my vinyl cutter! Was able to make masks for the yellow rectangles on the bottom of the blades there, didn't think I could cut that small. I was also able to cut canopy masks last night so that is now also ready to go 

Edited by Volksjager
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Couple more jobs ticked off this one over the last couple of arvo's after work 

 

Got the landing light attached to the leading edge and blended in. It was ok originally but stuck out from the surface just a tad. I fixed it in place with UV resin, then sanded back till flush, then polished till shinny. Should have done this before the back base but to be truthful I was avoiding it 

 

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With the black then repaired & underside polished it was finally time for some paint. Out came the super silver and onto the underside it went

 

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Certain panels were then picked out and painted in stainless steel. Found a great pic online of a Ki-100 taking off, showing the different metal shading so I am following suit. I will let this all dry overnight so I can then apply a wash and tarnish up the silver before masking for the topside colour. Ailerons will also be next, painted a grey green colour.

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Managed to get some more desk time in today which was great. Applied the topside camo colour, my take on "Ohryoku nana go shoku" which is like a Khaki Drab. I first applied a liquid mask for some basic chipping to show through, then used US Olive Drab from SMS applied over the silver base. From here I added German Khaki Brown slowly, once again from SMS, in 3 stages to get 3 different shades of panel shading. Then finally I applied the German Khaki Brown by itself through a spray mask to get a paint wear effect mostly around the exhaust & wing root. I heavily diluted black was also applied through the same mask for some post shading effect. Still a heap to go but the surface is starting to show wear. 

 

Then finally the engine could be installed followed by the nose of the cowl. 

 

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From here I still need to apply a panel wash to both the upper & lower surfaces though I will mask out and paint the markings on first prior to that. 

 

One thing that I was impressed with were the control surface masks, something I have never used before. With the Hasegawa detail lacking I first painted a slightly lighter colour on the ailerons & rudder before applying the masks and spraying over them with a very thin black. After it was dry the masks were removed & lightly over sprayed with the lighter colour once again to blend the transitions. The pictures don't do the effect justice, it's very subtitle & gives a little 3d relief to the paintwork. I will certainly be using them again!

 

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Next up, some small things to repair, painting the markings & horizontal stabilisers. 

 

 

 

 

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Another update with a little more completed on the Ki-100.

 

Cut some custom masks today for the Hinomaru & the aircraft number. I was also going to do an aircraft from the 59th Sentai and was dead set on "153" but at the end decided against it and went for "47" which is in the background of the capture photo of "177" at Ashiya airfield, Fukuoka, Japan in July 1945.

 

Ki100-59Sentai-2Chutai-(White177)-Japan1945-8

 

I much prefer going for the lesser known aircraft & don't think I have seen it modelled before.

 

Anyhow I made the custom numbers and cut them, as well as the insignia and placed them around the aircraft, the White was German Cream from SMS with a touch of tan added & the red was plain old Red, again from SMS with 1 drop of black. 

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Before I could mark up the underside I had to paint in the ailerons as I only did the topside yesterday. I used Duck Egg from SMS, then applied the control surface mask, a very thin black, then Duck egg once again to blend. Lastly some tan through a mask and they were done. Once again I have to mention I am very impressed with these masks, adds so much more depth to an otherwise plain surface!

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Lastly were the smaller parts that got finished including the horizontal stabilisers & the main gear doors. I have left them off as I now need to paint the Chutai band on the tail and I am waiting on some advise before I start. It will be heaps easier to paint without the horizontal stabs on. 

 

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Until the next one

 

 

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On 11/30/2021 at 6:38 PM, Taylor Durbon said:

What a paintjob😍. Love it !

 

Many thanks

 

I need to take more pictures of the steps but that will be for another build log in the future. To easy to get stuck into it and before you know it's all together

 

Anyways I have pretty much completed painting now, with the last pieces to be completed this afternoon hopefully. The biggest task was the tail markings, a heap of masking was involved but it went pretty well. After speaking to Nick Millman, he confirmed that the 59th Sentai carried the diagonal stripe on the vertical tail & a strip on each of the horizontal stabilisers. We also assumed the aircraft belonged to the 2nd Chutai so the colours required were Red with White borders. 

 

With that done I then masked out the wing walk stencils & no step characters and airbrushed them in Red for an early production variant. These look much better than the supplied decals and I was able to chip and distress them. Finally a small amount of required decals were added, namely the 2 red rectangles, the cannon stars on the leading edge & the stencils on the trim tabs. I also had to change the propeller spinner from Red Brown/Yellow to the body colour, again advise from Nick pointed that way. Rather than break apart the parts I carefully masked and painted with the prop blades in situ

 

From here there are a couple of things to paint (mostly the Quickboost guns in the nose) then onto washes and stains. The end is near!

 

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Had a big push with this over Friday night & Saturday which saw this finished! It's now been posted in the RFI section:

 

 

But before the gong sounded I had the paint he new MG's. These are Eduard resin guns and the detail is just beautiful, especially against the kit parts

 

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Then the panel line wash goes on. I mix my colours & shades using 2 or 3 colours from the Tamiya panel line colour. In this case the underside used the gray, brown & black, the topside only the brown & black. 

 

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Then before I knew it, 3 hours had passed & the aircraft was looking good. With just final assembly required, I pushed on & got that done, then left the exhaust staining to the Saturday morning under fresh eyes. 

 

Exhaust stains were created with Tamiya weathering pastels, using the soot & grey colours, oil staining was added to the underside cooler and out of the exhaust & finally an aerial cable was added with Mig rigging wire in the 0.3 size. Some mud was flicked onto the tail wheel area using pigments soaked in some pigment fixer, flicking the brush over a toothpic to created clumps & with that was a wrap. Pretty happy with the result but as always things I could do better. Now onto the next one but not sure what to choose...

 

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very nice build and paint

 

A couple of questions if I may, was the “super silver” SMS paint?

 

Were the control surface masks included with the kit or were they of your own making?

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

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4 hours ago, shortCummins said:

very nice build and paint

 

A couple of questions if I may, was the “super silver” SMS paint?

 

Were the control surface masks included with the kit or were they of your own making?

 

rgds

John(shortCummins)

Many thanks. Yes the super silver is by SMS. I find that & their stainless steel very useful when doing NMF. The control surface masks were printed by myself with the help of some designs I had seen online. I cut them my little Cricut joy 

Edited by Volksjager
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  • 1 month later...
4 hours ago, The Spadgent said:

Bloody fantastic. Really great paint work and attention to detail. Lovely photography too. I can never seem to get the masking method of chipping to work for me. What masking fluid do you use? 
great stuff. 🙌

 

Johnny.

 Many thanks. I really enjoy the research part of each build, getting a feel for the aircraft, how they wear etc. Photography is something I want to work on this year though, I always see the faults, lol

 

For masking I use Mr Mask Neo, applied with a sponge and just stipple it on. Unload the bulk of the fluid first just like you would for dry brushing and you should be good from there. The chipping fluids never seem to work for both with paint coming off and getting something to look natural. 

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I missed this the first time around, glad I had the chance to see it now.  
 

The tip on pinching in the canopy is invaluable, I’ll definitely use that next time I have one that needs adjustment.

 

I am very impressed in the tonal modulation, the texture, you achieved in the upper surface green, and even the drop tanks, absolutely superb.

 

I am amazed you masked and painted the red Japanese characters on the wings but used decals for the red rectangle! 😆
 

Great work.

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6 hours ago, Volksjager said:

For masking I use Mr Mask Neo, applied with a sponge and just stipple it on. Unload the bulk of the fluid first just like you would for dry brushing and you should be good from there. The chipping fluids never seem to work for both with paint coming off and getting something to look natural. 

Ok 

Thanks . I just ordered some. I’d like to try out some of these techniques on my Dewey build. 😇

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5 hours ago, mark.au said:

I missed this the first time around, glad I had the chance to see it now.  
 

The tip on pinching in the canopy is invaluable, I’ll definitely use that next time I have one that needs adjustment.

 

I am very impressed in the tonal modulation, the texture, you achieved in the upper surface green, and even the drop tanks, absolutely superb.

 

I am amazed you masked and painted the red Japanese characters on the wings but used decals for the red rectangle! 😆
 

Great work.

Thanks for the kind words. Great to hear you found some of the tips helpful. This year I said to myself I have to post more so hopefully more will be up soon as I have a couple of things just starting.

 

BTW, I did have a laugh about using the red square decals once you mentioned it. Sounds petty but I couldn't miss out on the small Japanese characters inside if them

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2 minutes ago, The Spadgent said:

Ok 

Thanks . I just ordered some. I’d like to try out some of these techniques on my Dewey build. 😇

Looking forward to seeing the results 

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3 minutes ago, Volksjager said:

Looking forward to seeing the results 

Thanks man. I’m usually kicking around here in the aircraft section but Dewey is in the sci- fi section. Hopefully it’ll turn out well. I love trying new stuff. 😃


Johnny

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  • 1 year later...

Hi,

 

I've just caught up with this build and wanted to say how great it is: the finish is astounding with the variations you've incorporated into the upper surface camo and the undersurface NMF. Fabulous! The fabric effect on the flying surfaces is a brilliant idea, something I definitely want to try out.

 

I've been looking for a 1/48 Ki-100 kit, and the Hasegawa looks like a great option. And if I can turn out one half as good as yours, I'll be well chuffed!

 

All the best,

Mark

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On 7/24/2023 at 5:15 PM, 2996 Victor said:

Hi,

 

I've just caught up with this build and wanted to say how great it is: the finish is astounding with the variations you've incorporated into the upper surface camo and the undersurface NMF. Fabulous! The fabric effect on the flying surfaces is a brilliant idea, something I definitely want to try out.

 

I've been looking for a 1/48 Ki-100 kit, and the Hasegawa looks like a great option. And if I can turn out one half as good as yours, I'll be well chuffed!

 

All the best,

Mark

 Thanks for the comments Mark, really appreciate it! This one was a pleasure to build and does sit very proudly on my shelf 

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  • 4 weeks later...

You said, for the  undersurfaces of the ailerons:

 

"Before I could mark up the underside I had to paint in the ailerons as I only did the topside yesterday. I used Duck Egg from SMS, then applied the control surface mask, a very thin black, then Duck egg once again to blend. Lastly some tan through a mask and they were done."

 

I understood that up to and including the second duck egg, but what sort of mask did you use for that final tan?

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23 hours ago, Jesus Dapena said:

You said, for the  undersurfaces of the ailerons:

 

"Before I could mark up the underside I had to paint in the ailerons as I only did the topside yesterday. I used Duck Egg from SMS, then applied the control surface mask, a very thin black, then Duck egg once again to blend. Lastly some tan through a mask and they were done."

 

I understood that up to and including the second duck egg, but what sort of mask did you use for that final tan?

 

Sorry, I should have been more clear. The control surface mask was used for the black, duck egg and the tan, then removed after the spraying was complete.  

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Volksjager:

 

Thank you for your response, but I am still confused.

 

My understanding is that, for the upper surfaces (and rudder), you (1) painted with light olive green; (2) applied mask; (3) painted with very thin black; (4) removed mask; (5) painted lightly with the light olive green "to blend".

 

Then, for the lower surfaces, you said that you (1) painted with duck egg; (2) applied mask; (3) painted with very thin black; (4) removed mask; (5) painted lightly with the duck egg "to blend".  OK, this procedure for the lower surfaces made perfect sense:  It was the same as for the upper surfaces, but using duck egg instead of light olive green in steps (1) and (5).

 

But then in the main text you said, "Lastly some tan through a mask and they were done.", which threw me off completely.  Where did the tan come in?

 

Your reply to my query for clarification ("The control surface mask was used for the black, duck egg and the tan, then removed after the spraying was complete") left me still lost!  Does this mean that the 5-step procedure was carried out THREE separate times (once with light olive green in steps 1 and 5; another time with duck egg in steps 1 and 5; and a 3rd time with tan in steps 1 and 5)?  If this was the case, the 5-step procedure using the light olive green was used for the upper surfaces and rudder (OK), the 5-step procedure using the duck egg was used for the undersurfaces (OK), but the 5-step procedure using the tan was used for ... what?   🤔

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On 8/24/2023 at 5:48 AM, Jesus Dapena said:

Volksjager:

 

Thank you for your response, but I am still confused.

 

My understanding is that, for the upper surfaces (and rudder), you (1) painted with light olive green; (2) applied mask; (3) painted with very thin black; (4) removed mask; (5) painted lightly with the light olive green "to blend".

 

Then, for the lower surfaces, you said that you (1) painted with duck egg; (2) applied mask; (3) painted with very thin black; (4) removed mask; (5) painted lightly with the duck egg "to blend".  OK, this procedure for the lower surfaces made perfect sense:  It was the same as for the upper surfaces, but using duck egg instead of light olive green in steps (1) and (5).

 

But then in the main text you said, "Lastly some tan through a mask and they were done.", which threw me off completely.  Where did the tan come in?

 

Your reply to my query for clarification ("The control surface mask was used for the black, duck egg and the tan, then removed after the spraying was complete") left me still lost!  Does this mean that the 5-step procedure was carried out THREE separate times (once with light olive green in steps 1 and 5; another time with duck egg in steps 1 and 5; and a 3rd time with tan in steps 1 and 5)?  If this was the case, the 5-step procedure using the light olive green was used for the upper surfaces and rudder (OK), the 5-step procedure using the duck egg was used for the undersurfaces (OK), but the 5-step procedure using the tan was used for ... what?   🤔

 

No worries, sounds like my inital reply just made the whole thing a lot more confusing. My apologies.

 

From memory for this kit ( and what I do most of the time) is to paint the base coat colour (for this kit either the light olive green or Duck egg) then apply the control surface mask. Then I apply a very thin black for the shadow, remove the mask, then overpaint with a light application of the base layer to blend in (again either light olive green or duck egg in this case). The final layer is a tan colour and I spray this through a "splatter mask" which I have made from a thinning a scotch brite pad. This is the mask I am referring to:

 

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When you make one of these thinner, it gives a very random splatter mask that I spray paint through. It gives a very fine, random pattern & adds some life and subtle colour variation to the painted surface. 

 

I can take some pics of my process if you would prefer?

Edited by Volksjager
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