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HMS Daring (H16)


Ratch
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Nice work! 

 

Regarding PE glue, I would highly recommend GS Hypo cement, which has a tiny applicator nozzle and is sticky, setting in about 10 seconds with a transparent, flexible joint. It's perfect for railings and davits. Downside: it's stringy, so needs tidying up afterwards. 

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17 minutes ago, Alan P said:

I would highly recommend GS Hypo cement

I shall have to search - don't think I've heard of that one :hmmm:

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I've heard recommendations a few times but never followed it up. I think I'll give it a try too. The big bottle of wood glue by my desk is cheap and lasts a long time, but needs  pouring out onto an old credit card and then picking up and applying a blob with a bit of wire. Less time and less cleanup would be nice.

 

Paul.

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On 4/4/2022 at 6:27 PM, Ratch said:

God I hate PE. Two and a half hours to put about 10 bits of brass on the ship. CA glue sticks to everything apart from where you want it to stick. It seeps out of the tube gluing the lid to the applicator tube. The PE sticks to your tweezers and/or cutting mat but not where you want it to go. And when it does finally stick, the parts are mis-placed and not tidy. 

 

Yep, that just about covers it.  Apart from the propensity of parts to fly off into another dimension just a microsecond before you touch them down in place.

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The ships have moved on a little, decals applied and railings added - firstly on the Niko ship. The decals supplied with the kit are for H19 HMS Harvester and D16 HMS Ivanhoe! I had to cut the sheet to make the correct code for HMS Daring. 
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On the Tamiya kit I applied 8” serial letters from Ventura Decals sheet V7252 and added some railings left over from the Niko kit to the bow and 1/600 etched railings aft of the fo'c'stle.
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On the Airfix conversion I applied 0.15mm decals from Carpena Decal Sheet 72.61 for the bow, and 8” serial letters from Ventura Decals sheet V7252 for the stern. I then utilised some left-over photo-etch railings, which were fixed with PVA.
52000051133_a2ce57be17_z.jpg
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Back with the ships, I am undecided which way to proceed.
52008242454_3b2137bcf6_z.jpg
I had planned to add some simplified rigging, but I'm not sure it works.
52008049098_51a07315e8_z.jpg
So do I strip the rigging off the Niko kit, or add it to the Tamiya and Airfix ships.
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52008242419_fa0b88702d_z.jpg

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I tried stretched black sprue but wasn't happy with that either. Maybe 1/700 just doesn't lend itself to wires. Anyway, I've stuck her to the base and here is my first of the trilogy, the Niko 7088 HMS Daring.
52010208796_41abfc7386_c.jpg

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As it's a fairly easy fix I will risk mentioning this: Daring was in the Home Fleet's 3rd DF when sunk. They did not wear any funnel flotilla bands then.  

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Fine work! Congratulations!

 

Speaking about CA glue - there is a method to manage it. Just do not apply the glue from the tube, but put a big drop on some surface (I use microscope piece of glass, some use old CDs), let it dry a bit, then put smaller drop in the middle of the first one - and then forget about the tube and use this pool as a supply depot for CA. Applicate glue from this drop to the model parts using really thin needle. It works.

 

Certain Polish master-modeller wrote an article about it:

Article about CA glueing PE parts on 1/700 ships

It is in Polish, but there are lots of useful photos there. And the text you can translate with the google translator.

 

Best!

Edited by GrzeM
typo correction
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