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HMS Daring (H16)


Ratch
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I bought this Tamiya E Class to convert to HMS Daring, and made a few notes: TSDS is Two Speed Destroyer Sweep consisting of a winch, two davits and pavanes. No TSDS on HMS Daring. In the D Class the bridge was modified (as HMS Hotspur), the superstructure below B gun remained rounded. B gun deck overhangs more than H Class. On each side of the signal deck (similar to Hotspur) a single 2pdr was carried, a 3in. AA on circular platform was positioned between the funnels. This feature was not repeated on later models because the funnels restricted the sky-arc of the gun. 
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Armed with four 4.7in. guns and two sets of three torpedo tubes. Depth charge throwers, two single 2pdr pom-poms. One red band on the aft funnel denotes attachment to Third Destroyer Flotilla.
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My research incorporated the AIRFIX magazine for modellers – December 1979 p175-182
The ‘D’ Class bridge was the same as Hotspur. The fore superstructure was rounded under ‘B’ gun deck, which overhung considerably more than the kit. Use the Codrington drawing (I’m using Norman Ough’s drawing). On each side of the Signal Deck a single 2pdr was carried (as Hotspur). The space between the funnels was given to a 3-inch AA gun on a circular platform (smaller than Codrington’s). Two Speed Destroyer Sweep T.S.D.S. minesweeping gear was not carried.

My box had tipped over and I had several missing parts:
part 5 cannot find on the instruction sheet
13 a spigot for a gun – I don’t need it
17 I cannot find on the instruction sheet
24 is the bow mast, I’ll have to substitute with plastic rod
31 half a funnel, I’ve got another complete one in my spares box
38 a davit I have one in spares
66 the rudder I have one left over from my water-lined build of HMS Dulverton.
I determined that 3mm requires adding to the length of the hull, but whereabouts I was uncertain. 
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Checking Norman Ough’s drawing the 3mm should be added forward of the capstans for the anchors. The eyelets for the anchor cables measure correctly so 3mm should be added forward of them making the bow pointier. I think this is beyond my skill set, though if I had another Hotspur, I may have attempted it, but as it is, I’ll wimp out and build it without the extension.
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2 hours ago, dickrd said:

If when sunk, overall Home Fleet grey most likely.

 

 

 

 

Which of the 507s is that Dick? (presuming it is a 507)

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507A.

 

Also, and with all due respect to the Airfix Magazine, there were quite a number of differences between a D Class bridge and an H Class bridge, most notably the height:

D v H Class

 

Edited by dickrd
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I've been doing little bits on the ships, basically copying the layout of the Niko Daring.
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Not many changes required on the Tamiya E Class. I cut a bandstand from scrap plastic card.
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The Airfix Hotspur needs a few more alterations. I cut a bandstand from scrap plastic card, then checked the height of the bridge. It should be 10.4mm and I measured it at 10.5mm, which is close enough for me. I addressed the stern platform for Y gun, scratching the mast platform area from scrap plastic card.
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Playing around, working out how to display the Airfix ship
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Either on the kit supplied stands
or some blocks
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I probably need to shorten them

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The Niko Daring requires the masts to be made from brass rod.
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It was necessary to scratch two 2pdr singles for the Tamiya and Airfix ships.
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Mounted
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Just railings and ship's boats to add the Airfix's ship
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The Niko etch is miniscule, which makes it difficult for me to bend cleanly to the desired angles. Maybe I should invest in a tool. 
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Apart from the ship's boats, the Tamiya is built.
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I primed the Airfix and Tamiya ships.
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The put down the Hull Red on the Airfix build.
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Hi Ratch,

 

I'd check that accommodation ladder on the Niko kit.  In all my years at sea, I've never seen an accommodation ladder angled for'ard.  It would very easily be damaged by the tidal stream flowing past when the ship was at anchor.

 

Out of curiosity, why do you hate PE?  I'd never used it until about 10=12 years ago and I admit that even now I find it fiddly to put on.  But in the maritime world it really makes a model stand out

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29 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

I'd check that accommodation ladder on the Niko kit.  In all my years at sea, I've never seen an accommodation ladder angled for'ard.  It would very easily be damaged by the tidal stream flowing past when the ship was at anchor.

I thought it was odd too, but that's how it's shown on the instructions. I'll have to see if I can dismantle it and re-do it.

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34 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

Out of curiosity, why do you hate PE?  I'd never used it until about 10=12 years ago and I admit that even now I find it fiddly to put on.  But in the maritime world it really makes a model stand out

It's far too fiddly for my big, fat fingers. I agree that when done well it improves ships, but I'm an infrequent shipbuilder and don't get enough practice. 

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Does anyone have a clue for the deck colour?

Tamiya have XF-53 Neutral Grey for their E Class and the Airfix call out is Airfix M3 Olive Green. I was expecting Corticene but stand to be corrected.

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19 hours ago, Ratch said:

I'll have to see if I can dismantle it and re-do it.

No, the superglue has stuck it fast - I'll have to live with it 😡

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51982210621_93b1c58b86_z.jpg
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God I hate PE. Two and a half hours to put about 10 bits of brass on the ship. CA glue sticks to everything apart from where you want it to stick. It seeps out of the tube gluing the lid to the applicator tube. The PE sticks to your tweezers and/or cutting mat but not where you want it to go. And when it does finally stick, the parts are mis-placed and not tidy. I think I'll stick with plastic.

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On 04/04/2022 at 18:27, Ratch said:



God I hate PE. Two and a half hours to put about 10 bits of brass on the ship. CA glue sticks to everything apart from where you want it to stick. It seeps out of the tube gluing the lid to the applicator tube. The PE sticks to your tweezers and/or cutting mat but not where you want it to go. And when it does finally stick, the parts are mis-placed and not tidy. I think I'll stick with plastic.

Which is why I only use CA in structural areas. No reason not to use thinned white PVA or matt varnish in other places .................. it worked for Harry Woodman.

 

Paul.

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22 hours ago, Paul Thompson said:

No reason not to use thinned white PVA or matt varnish in other places

How do you get things like davits to stay upright while these 'soft' glues take forever to set?

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21 minutes ago, Ratch said:

How do you get things like davits to stay upright while these 'soft' glues take forever to set?

It's time consuming and tedious.  Drill a hole. Fortunately I mostly build aircraft, notoriously davit-deficient, and most things in a cockpit, or things like louvres and inspection panels on the outside of a WW1 cowling, work well without CA, and also give you longer to postion things accurately. I've done a few ships though, and there I found PVA good enough for hatches and ladders. Basically, anything that lays on a flat surface, or propped up against a bulkhead. Not tried it but I'd expect propping a davit upright with a bit of Blue-tac or plasticine to work if you can't face drilling scores of tiny holes, so long as there's room for the blob and you can lean it in a bit so it doesn't also get stuck.

 

 

Paul.

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Thanks Paul. I found another way round. I used a cocktail stick to put a dab of PVA where the part goes, then (with another cocktail stick) put a spot of CA on the part. When the CA & PVA meet the set is much quicker.


The Niko Daring is about ready for primer.
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Paint has been going on.
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I have followed the Niko painting guide.
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Applying it to each of the models.
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I'll be mounting the Airfix kit on the blocks.
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Normally I would mask and spray the boot topping, but this time I did it with a ruling pen, freehand.
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