aharris57 Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 This is a replacement thread for my old topic which has gone invisible for some reason. Old posts should be accessible here: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235099702-kp-models-172-dh88-comet/ and I'll add new ones below. @alt-92 @billn53 @VG 33 @Darknark @Tentacles you'll need to re-follow this new thread if you're interested to see how the Comet turns out 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aharris57 Posted November 11, 2021 Author Share Posted November 11, 2021 Nearly ready for paint. The canopy is on and I've attached the exhaust pipes. These are so small I found it impossible to clean up the massive sprue gates before attachment, and once on the model I couldn't do much with them either. Just the tail skid left to attach before priming. Two q's if I may: 1) How can I mask the undercarriage bays; 2) What's best to remove rubbing down dust before painting? Cheers. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orso Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 I once read that someone stuffed the undercarriage bays with wet toilet paper. Don't know if it works. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Knight Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 Yes, it works. Toilet tissue or kitchen paper towel, scrunched up and carefully pushed into the hole, then some water dribbled on it. It can be carefully moved around to really block off the hole. Remove carefully using tweezers after spraying 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ckw Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 Wet tissue works, but if you let it dry make sure to re-wet it before attempting to remove. I use foam (the kind used to stuff animals) which I find easier to poke into openings and remove when finished. Depending on how the wheel wells are done, I sometimes create a 'well' for the foam by lining the well walls with Tamiya tape. Cheers Colin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 What Black Night & ckw say, both work for me. Stuart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry1954 Posted November 12, 2021 Share Posted November 12, 2021 Coming along nicely. A bit confused by your initial post in this thread, as I can still find your original no problem? Terry 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aharris57 Posted November 13, 2021 Author Share Posted November 13, 2021 Rubbish weather led to a fruitful afternoon of Comet construction. First off I primed the beast by spraying it with a highly thinned coat of Mr Surfacer 500. This was an experiment. I was pleased with the result, a matt surface with a very fine texture. I practiced first on a gash Lynx helo fuselage I had in the spares box. I tried spraying the Lynx with Mr Color gloss black, but the gloss wasn't really shining on the primer, so I decided to wet sand the model with 2000 grade paper to reduce the primer texture. I also took the opportunity to fill a few pinholes that showed up in the filler on the fuselage spine behind the canopy. Primer shows up every defect! Then ready for the topcoats ... And there you have it, Black Magic is finally black. Also made a start on spraying the props, wheels and mudguards. With a fair wind I might get it finished next week. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aharris57 Posted November 14, 2021 Author Share Posted November 14, 2021 More progress today. First off the undercarriage wheels and mudguards go on. Easier than expected. Then time to unmask the canopy, apply some decals and cement on the props: The decals are extremely thin and need handling with care! Every gold decal you can see broke up an application and had to be carefully rebuilt in position on the aircraft. Both fuselage registrations broke up completely and could not be salvaged. Do I fork out $30 for another kit, just to risk the same outcome? If I do I shall cut the registration into individual letters and apply it a bit at the time. Spacing it will be a pain but safer than risking it in one go again. I still need to do the underwing registration and deal with the nose light. Getting there slowly. Finally, here's something I disagree with! 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry1954 Posted November 14, 2021 Share Posted November 14, 2021 Looking really good! Terry 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted November 14, 2021 Share Posted November 14, 2021 Hi, just caught up with this and it has put up a bit if a fight great perseverance and great work on this. It is looking rather splendid after your efforts. I had the same issue with the decals from the KP Piper Pawnee kit . Luckily I wasn't doing a crop duster so didn't require the decals. I used parts of the decals sheet for another kit and noted that when immersed in warm water, tge decals separated from ghe backing sheet immediately and crack up a bit too. Your idea of separating the letters is a good one, do you have any liquid decal film , as it may be worth applying this to the decals on ghe sheet before you apply and that may help stop breaking up. Great work on this. Chris 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aharris57 Posted November 14, 2021 Author Share Posted November 14, 2021 Thanks @bigbadbadge and @Terry1954. I'll try to get hold of some liquid decal film to strengthen the next ones before I have another go. I do have plenty of spares for the other liveries which I can experiment with on the Lynx fuselage test mule. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alt-92 Posted November 14, 2021 Share Posted November 14, 2021 Real Black magic fwiw: I've used different approaches to decals with KP kits, water at room temp & a quick soak, or just cutting them out and wetting the decal on the (cleaned) cutting mat. Then, when they start shifting slightly, apply them - haven't had major issues doing it that way. The warm water I reserve for Tamiya's uber-sturdy thick decals 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VMA131Marine Posted November 14, 2021 Share Posted November 14, 2021 On 11/11/2021 at 7:04 AM, Black Knight said: Yes, it works. Toilet tissue or kitchen paper towel, scrunched up and carefully pushed into the hole, then some water dribbled on it. It can be carefully moved around to really block off the hole. Remove carefully using tweezers after spraying Clear plastic cling wrap works even better; no water required. The nice thing about it is it sticks to itself and is incredibly thin. I cut a very oversized piece and then gently stuff it into openings with a toothpick. It’s great for protecting painted landing gear legs that you’ve already installed because you don’t run the risk of damaging them . 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aharris57 Posted November 22, 2021 Author Share Posted November 22, 2021 A week on and I forked out for that second kit. Glad to say that with much less soaking time (15 seconds in slightly warm water) the fuselage registrations behaved much better and are now firmly affixed to the little Comet. Also did the underwing rego and stuck the lading light on with a blob of gloss varnish. The light is very thick and distorts the silver reflector I painted behind it leaving a rather miserable grey blob. Next time - now I have a second kit - I'll try vac forming one out of an old shampoo bottle and a blunt pencil. Infinite number of chances to get that right! I now declare this build finished, so here are the final pics: 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aharris57 Posted November 22, 2021 Author Share Posted November 22, 2021 Well folks, that's a wrap. Feel free to follow my next fun-filled adventure as I attempt to wrestle with Airfix's 1965 tooling of this little horror: Cheers! Andy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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