Anteater Posted October 27, 2021 Share Posted October 27, 2021 I've hardly built anything this year. I've been occupied with moving house and then discovering everything that is wrong with said house, plus some mouse and crow-related complications with the house. Mouse and house does not mix. Crows are just feathery ********s. However, my head was turned by one of these a few months ago... Cool, but redder than I prefer. What I had in mind was a considerably shonkier version. Gran Torinos were apparently notorious for rotting out in no time, so it seemed appropriate to attempt a weathered version. There are too many red ones. Proper 70s cars are brown. Going back a couple of months ago... First of all, a bit of preparation. I removed the marker light and flat sanded the wing badge. I thought I'd be clever by adding some drill holes for the missing badge but I marginally cocked it up. I'll correct it... What then followed was application of Fine Surface Primer, a black base and various layers of Ford Roman Bronze and Ford Sable Bronze ala Halfords. My aim was to to replicate the appearance of a car that might have had a few replacement panels and been strategically blown over, rather than having obviously mismatched paint. So... By this point I was losing track of where I was going so I decided to have a crack at the Salt Technique. I blew bit of primer over the required areas and went for it... Not too bad, but I didn't like the bootlid so I painted it Coral Beige, then sprayed more Sable Bronze over salt. That kind of worked. However, I proceeded to wet-sand the roof and bootlid into the sort of shine I would kill for normally. I now need to buy some flat topcoat but I'm too tight to pay the £7 postage on just one item. To be continued... but not immediately... ANTEATER 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElectricLightAndy Posted October 28, 2021 Share Posted October 28, 2021 This is going to be excellent, our lack of modelling circumstances seem very similar... except mice and feathery ****s, I love the look you are going for, I did amm MG B a few years ago that I'd made to look like it was undergoing a rolling restoration, painted the sill and bits black like replacement panels then added weld lines and red oxide over them, didn't look as good as this though 😀 Andy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted October 28, 2021 Share Posted October 28, 2021 I like that. I have one in the stash too, thought about doing a green version like in the Clint Eastwood movie, although that one was from a different year than the kit version. I definitely won't do a red one either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteater Posted October 28, 2021 Author Share Posted October 28, 2021 10 hours ago, ElectricLightAndy said: This is going to be excellent I admire your optimism... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteater Posted October 28, 2021 Author Share Posted October 28, 2021 8 hours ago, JeroenS said: I like that. I have one in the stash too, thought about doing a green version like in the Clint Eastwood movie, although that one was from a different year than the kit version. I definitely won't do a red one either. Funny you should say that; I bought a bargain bucket £3 can of Tourmaline Green at the same time I bought the Sable Bronze, as I couldn't make my mind up. I'll look out for your forthcoming build thread and we can compare. 😉 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted October 28, 2021 Share Posted October 28, 2021 44 minutes ago, Anteater said: Funny you should say that; I bought a bargain bucket £3 can of Tourmaline Green at the same time I bought the Sable Bronze, as I couldn't make my mind up. I'll look out for your forthcoming build thread and we can compare. 😉 Yes, it's scheduled for late 2025 😆 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteater Posted October 28, 2021 Author Share Posted October 28, 2021 What's the hurry? You'll finish before me at that rate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteater Posted October 29, 2021 Author Share Posted October 29, 2021 Does anyone happen to know what colour the headlining and rear parcel shelf should be on a 76 Torino, if the rest of the interior is red/burgundy? And are the rear shelves carpeted? I've looked extensively on Google/images but can't seem to find the answer. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby No Mac Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 I loved your work with the Transit, it was long before I got around to registering an account. I'm tagging along to see how this build goes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteater Posted November 1, 2021 Author Share Posted November 1, 2021 A bit more progress on the Gran Torino. In order to avoid expensive postage on rattle cans I conducted a lightning raid on Stoke-on-Toast to obtain some flat Top Coat and stock up on primer. I used the salt technique again to give a reasonably successful appearance of lacquer peel on the roof. Due to the cold weather and general incompetence the top coat bloomed a bit (a lot!) on the boot lid but I like the effect so it'll stay that way. Next, a bit of interior work because I'm impatient and it's more interesting than doing chassis stuff. I'm going for a funky red interior partially because I've always liked the Meyerowitz photograph of the same name; it's atmospheric. Anyway, it suits the Torino and was a period option. There's no way I'm installing an inky black one in such a prime piece of 70s iron. A blend of red primer, Vauxhall Burgundy and some tar black washing gave me this. It looks a bit grubbier in real life. The carpet is black DC Fix velvet, painted with rattle cans. I wasn't sure that painting it would work, but it does. I've solved my parcel shelf dilemma, carpet provides more interest. The decals in this kit are hit and miss. It's meant have a fake-wood trimline with chrome edges along the door cards, but the decals just would not stick. I've had to paint a simplified version in place. Thankfully the black instrument panel surround stuck in place eventually on the dash, because I didn't fancy painting that. I painted the bezels for a better shine though. Laterz. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted November 1, 2021 Share Posted November 1, 2021 Very '70's indeed. It matches my parents' wallpaper from those days nicely 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteater Posted November 3, 2021 Author Share Posted November 3, 2021 Broom broom! Engine time. I'm not an expert on malaise-era yank metal but I believe the kit replicates the 5.8 litre (351 ci) Windsor V8. Officially a small block, if you will. What I do know is they were painted a particular shade of blue that I don't have and I couldn't be bothered to mix some up, so this is close enough. However, that dizzy… too small to drill out, even after I cut it down. It had to go. Promptly re-made from a piece of rod. Plug leads in place. The firing order is correct… I think. One of my pet hates is floating alternators. I don’t know why kit manufacturers all seem to do this, it would be impossible to tension, so I’ve added a bracket as this one will be especially visible. Similarly I’ve filled the back of the alternator, which was hollow as per every kit I’ve ever built. Just why? One oily lump of (limited) horsepower. I still need to add breather pipes and the king lead and such, but I'll do that when it's in the engine bay. There seem to be various variations from looking at reference photos so whatever I end up with probably offend the rivet counters. ANTEATER BEERBREAK. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlambert Posted November 3, 2021 Share Posted November 3, 2021 It's got two four-barrel carburettors, so not that limited power. Nice work on the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteater Posted November 3, 2021 Author Share Posted November 3, 2021 Only about 160bhp-ish I think? Smog gear and low compression in a big, heavy, wobbly body. A load of rubbish really. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlambert Posted November 4, 2021 Share Posted November 4, 2021 Having checked a reputable source (OK Wikipedia, so not really) I think Revell's carburettor and intake manifold is completely unrealistic for a 1976 Ford Gran Torino as the 351 V8 came with a single, two-barrel carburettor; along with primitive emissions controls, that would give about 160bhp I'd guess. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toftdale Posted November 5, 2021 Share Posted November 5, 2021 The markings look good on the alternator belt, are they decals? - Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteater Posted November 5, 2021 Author Share Posted November 5, 2021 That is a decal on the FEAD belt, yes. Unexpectedly nice detailing from Revell there, considering the kit is a bit primitive elsewhere. A case in point; the chassis. Note the rear axle lacks coil springs, it's not as if it's waiting for leaf springs either, it's just totally lacking any coil springs... I may have to rectify that. I located the engine and drivetrain, a very tight fit as it happens. I wasn't convinced it was actually going to go in, but with a click it slotted onto a peg for the gearbox and actual engine mounts for the block. First test fit of the body. Some work to do before locating the back axle. The kit replicates the tail-up stance of the Starsky & Hutch car, which looks a bit daft really and certainly isn't prototypical of the standard car. Therefore, I've estimated by eye and lopped a bit off the strange back axle mounting tubes. Should look better I think... Anteater. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteater Posted November 7, 2021 Author Share Posted November 7, 2021 Rear springs made from scale plug lead wire. Boing. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlambert Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 It's much better for having some springs in there and correcting the stance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteater Posted November 10, 2021 Author Share Posted November 10, 2021 I've been cracking on with the engine bay but with the firewall and inner wings being part of the body, there's only so much plumbing-in that I can do until the chassis and body meet. I don't much like the part-submerged moulded coil, but I'll disguise it under other clutter. I'll need to make a washer bottle for one thing. Note I am adding a wing mounted solenoid box for the starter wiring circuit. I didn't mention that I added some strip to represent the battery tray, otherwise it'd have one weirdly tall battery. I don't know why Revell do that, their Mustang Fastback is the same and it looks stupid. Front panel and fan housing added, but without the body in place it's tricky to get it exactly central. We'll see... I've had a bit of trouble with this box that mounts to the bulkhead; I think it's part of the HVAC system. Anyway, it should have a pipe that joins two outlets, but Revell don't supply one. I decided after fitting it that my first attempt with 1.5mm rod looked too bulky. I remade it in solder wire and it looks better. This why it takes me ages to build anything. With the engine "out" I've added a PCV crankcase breather in solder wire, which was required to meet emissions. I'm going to sound daft here but I'm not sure if I need one on each cylinder bank to equalise the pressure...? The internet is inconclusive but I don't think it needs two. After that, I fitted the brake master cylinder but also added a vacuum hose running from the servo, which I can't plumb in yet. Got to do something about these tyres. They're so shiny I can see my face in them... Anteater. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 Nice work. The inside of the engine bay looks well worn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteater Posted November 11, 2021 Author Share Posted November 11, 2021 Thanks, I don't have any fancy products for weathering. I just gave the engine bay a misting of fine primer and beige paint over the black base coat, then washed it over with watered down Humbrol 113 acrylic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Six97s Posted November 12, 2021 Share Posted November 12, 2021 A nice clunker taking shape there. 🙂 I wouldn't worry too much about the PCV plumbing. The dual quad intake and air cleaner aren't factory correct anyway, and the engine is a strange mix of 351W and 351C features. It's strange altogether for a recent tooling - it's very reminiscent of a '70s/'80s Monogram kit with the simplified suspension and moulded-in details. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anteater Posted November 12, 2021 Author Share Posted November 12, 2021 So what you're saying @Six97s is that Revell made it up, so I can too. I can groove that way. Test fit: YO STANCE! It's a good job I took those few mm off the rear suspension height, it's tall enough as it is with the balloon rear tyres. Elsewhere, I was just happy to have got the wheels on straight; Revell's solution is a two part wheel with a metal pin in the middle that locates into the axle and/or hub... except it doesn't. I couldn't believe how badly engineered it was, much adjustment required. An epic battle ensued when the first front wheel got stuck halfway, stranded in a wobbly misaligned no-man's land which was neither in nor out. I mean, really... Clunker looking suitably clunky now. 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeroenS Posted November 12, 2021 Share Posted November 12, 2021 I was just thinking "man, I should do one of these some time", but then I realized I have this one stashed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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