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HMS Brave Borderer 1/35


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18 hours ago, Dmitriy1967 said:

I decided to use stockings. It would be a shame if my trials in the women's store would have been wasted. :)

 

Covered the body. It looks erotic in tights.

Dmitriy, you got me all excited with that post. 😛 It's not good for my blood pressure! 😁

 

But seriously it looks like you've had a win with this technique. Regards, Jeff.

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I'm starting to think about painting. I'm going to use acrylic paints. They seem to me more resistant to damage.

If I use decals, it would be nice to cover the top with a matte varnish.

And I ask for your help with the definition of colors.

The bottom of the hull will be black, the sides, superstructures and other light gray, the deck is dark gray.

The main thing is to understand the numbers of the palette of these colors. If you know, please tell me. I assume that there will be Tamiya paints, but this is not for sure.

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Hi Dmitriy,

 

Regarding Royal Navy paint colours for Brave Borderer, Jamie Duff provides a nice colour chart of the RN paint colours used over the years.  For my Brave Borderer build, I used Model Master acrylics.   Although I couldn't confirm the actual colours used on Brave Borderer, I did choose the Model Master colours that I felt were a close match to the sample colours on Jamie's chart, for the time periods when Brave Borderer was in commission (1959 to 1980); 

 

e.g.

 

Light Grey for the period of 1955 to 1968 - M23 Light Admiralty Grey BS381C-697

Light Grey for the period of 1968 to 1980M01 Light Weatherworks Grey BS381C-676 

 

Dark Grey for the period of 1955 to 1968 - M02 Dark Sea Grey BS381C-638

Dark Grey for the period of 1968 to 1980M02 Dark Sea Grey BS381C-638

 

Here's a link to my thread where Jamie provided the Sovereign Hobbies colour chart for reference;

 https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235057663-thinking-ahead-rn-paint-colours/&do=findComment&comment=3387997

 

Hope this helps.

 

John

 

 

 

 

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Hi John,

 

Thank you for the useful information!

Although painting is still far away, but I want to buy paints now. Due to well-known events, it may soon be impossible to buy foreign paints in Russia. Domestic paints are often of lower quality and fewer colors.

 

Dmitriy

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello, friends!

I didn't spend much time on the model. Coated with epoxy resin, sanded, coated with another layer of resin. Polished. Applied putty. I polished it again. Primed. Polished... Not an interesting activity. Especially when the body of the model is almost a meter.

 

 

It's time to take off your stockings, baby...

 

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Spring has come, it's warm outside. You can cover it with a primer in the fresh air!

 

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This is how the hull of the ship looks today. That's where I'll finish grinding. Then there will be only the final priming and painting. But that's later.

 

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It's time to move on to the power plant and propellers. For me, this is also terra incognita.

I made a simple test bench.

 

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Propellers of different shapes and sizes. Copy and high-speed.

 

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A trial at sea! :)

 

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Tests even without measuring instruments fully confirmed my assumptions. The copy screw does not have enough power (I do not know how to properly call this term in English). The high-speed propellers do a little better, but I want more thrust. It is necessary to put larger diameter propellers. This is sad, because we will have to get away from the full copy of the model. But, nothing can be done, the laws of physics and scaling cannot be deceived.

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7 minutes ago, ArnoldAmbrose said:

Gidday Dmitriy, it has sleek lines and looks like a smooth finish. 👍 Regards, Jeff.

 

Thank you, Jeff. I'm glad I got to this stage. I think there are still many surprises ahead. The journey continues! :)

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Hi Dmitriy,

 

Hull coming along nicely, its a steady process I know..  I have almost no finger prints left due to years of sanding, difficult for biometrics  :S

 

Yes, scale propellers don't really work well unfortunately.  How are you arranging for a-symmetric thrust to assist turning?  You will also discover that scale rudders are probably also USELSS on their own unless you are running the boat in a huge lake and have a turning circle measured in Km's.  So, the outer props will need to work to assist the turn by reversing the inside prop...

 

Cheers

 

Steve

 

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47 minutes ago, Steve D said:

Yes, scale propellers don't really work well unfortunately.  How are you arranging for a-symmetric thrust to assist turning?  You will also discover that scale rudders are probably also USELSS on their own unless you are running the boat in a huge lake and have a turning circle measured in Km's.  So, the outer props will need to work to assist the turn by reversing the inside prop...

 

 

My plans are like this.

I first want to choose propellers and motors that will allow you to move confidently and quickly through the water.

I will also make three rotary rudders more than it should be in scale. There won't be enough small ones to turn around.

And in the future, maybe (if I don't get tired of all this) I will install electronic controls that allow the side propellers to work in different directions at low speeds.

 

P.S. All I know about electronics is that electricity flows through wires and at school I studied the Ohm's rule.

But I'm not giving up! :)

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4 hours ago, Dmitriy1967 said:

All I know about electronics is that electricity flows through wires

I'm sorry to say what they taught you is wrong.  The wires are there to keep the smoke in.....:wink:

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57 minutes ago, Steve D said:

I'm sorry to say what they taught you is wrong.  The wires are there to keep the smoke in.....:wink:

And I always suspected something like that...  But, innate modesty did not allow arguing with teachers.

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  • 1 month later...

I don't have much free time right now, so I'm making very little progress. 

 

The rotary plates (tell me how they are correctly called in English) will be made larger than the scale requires. This will allow you to turn better on the water.

 

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Only it seems to me that I'm making a ship out of reinforced concrete?

 

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I'm starting to think about how to place the equipment inside the boat.

 

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I tell myself that I need to speed up. 300 meters from the house, Baltic is waiting for sea trials to begin. I am ashamed in front of the sea.

 

 

 

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31 minutes ago, Dmitriy1967 said:

The rotary plates

If you are describing the picture, then the English is RUDDER.

Jon

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2 minutes ago, Faraway said:

If you are describing the picture, then the English is RUDDER.

Jon

 

Thank you, John! I wrote down a new word in my notebook.

 

If this goes on, in 10 years I will know all the sea words, including swear words! 😁

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Posted (edited)
20 minutes ago, Steve D said:

Blxxdy nice rudders Dmitriy. (just trying help...)

 

Steve

 

Steve, you made me look into dictionaries to find out what is hidden under XX 

🙂

 

One more word in my notebook. Perhaps I will be able to communicate with the sailors already?

Edited by Dmitriy1967
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  • 2 months later...

Today for the first time in my life I soldered!

If I understand a little about working with wood, then soldering metal is generally a different religion! I understand nothing. Solder lives his life and does anything but what I need. I hope that gradually I will have the skills.

So far it has turned out like this.

 

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Dmitriy,

 

For soldering a prop-shaft sleeve to its mount (in particular one on a working boat) you need to use silver solder.  Soft solder such as you have used will crack over time (it work hardens) plus as you have found out, it is very messy as it melts too soon and blobs about (technical term). 

 

Select low-temperature silver solder (sometimes called hard solder), and use plenty of flux.  This comes in crystal form, is dissolved in water and simply painted on with a brush.  I use 0.5mm silver solder wire, but for that joint, 1mm wire might be better.  Place the wire on the cold side of the joint and apply heat to the other side, you will need to get the materials very hot, so that they glow red, and with solder will melt and run towards the heat, filling the joint and making it stronger that the brass.  If you cannot get the wire to stay in place, you can hold it in a pin chuck and feed it in once the brass is hot enough, it will melt as it goes in. If you heat the wire directly, it just melts into a sphere, and causes the release of bad words from your mouth.

 

Silver-soldering is the easiest form of soldering, much simpler to control and messy soft solder.  I use paste a lot as Steve suggests, but it's really only good for joining flat faces together, i.e. filling the crevice between two sheet surfaces.  It wouldn't work for this type of "T" joint, the result would be too weak.  Soft solder wire (as used by plumbers for copper pipework), is really only useful when you have a gap to fill, it does that well, but then takes a lot of clean-up.  Silver solder is not so great at gap filling, (it won't jump a gap) but if the items are touching, it is fine and invisible if done correctly.  The secret is clean work, enough flux and heat.

 

Good luck and ask anything you want, I'm always very happy to help

 

Cheers

 

Steve 

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Hey Dmitry, I just read the whole thread. My eyes are sore from looking and my sides are sore from laughing. And your modelling skills are wonderful. I admire the way you build Brave Borderer so bravely.

 

And so that you don't have to translate the above:

 

Здравствуйте, Дмитрий, прочитал всю ветку. Мои глаза болят от взгляда, а бока болят от смеха. И ваши навыки моделирования замечательны. Я восхищаюсь тем, как вы так смело строите Brave Borderer.

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56 minutes ago, Bertie McBoatface said:

And so that you don't have to translate the above:

 

Здравствуйте, Дмитрий, прочитал всю ветку. Мои глаза болят от взгляда, а бока болят от смеха. И ваши навыки моделирования замечательны. Я восхищаюсь тем, как вы так смело строите Brave Borderer.

 

Bertie, it's very kind of you to translate the text for me. I realized for the first time that people have been writing to me here for 8 pages already.

If you smiled while reading this topic, then it means that everything is not in vain, even if I don't build a ship.

But I will build it!

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