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HMS Brave Borderer 1/35


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58 minutes ago, Dmitriy1967 said:

I want to use a 1.5mm thick linden, this will give a large margin for grinding.

I don't know which glue is better to use yet. I need a waterproof one.

Many years ago when I built working models, I used a system sold for model airplanes consisting of a thin fabric and two part epoxy.  A bit messy, but does the job and strenthens the hull tremendously.  Sanding with wet and dry can create a glass like finish perfect for your boat while also removing your fingerprints.  Most of my fingerprints are useless due to years of sanding, makes biometric door entry a real challenge....:rofl:

Steve

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6 minutes ago, Steve D said:

  Most of my fingerprints are useless due to years of sanding, makes biometric door entry a real challenge....:rofl:

 

Во всём есть положительные моменты - теперь ты можешь грабить банки!

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7 minutes ago, Dmitriy1967 said:

Во всём есть положительные моменты - теперь ты можешь грабить банки!

К сожалению, стереть ДНК мне пока не удалось ...

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There is a slight pause in the work on the model. Autumn sadness pushed me to come up with entertainment for myself. I decided to build myself a separate workshop of 45 square meters (54 square yard).

And then I thought, why not build a second house and a bathhouse at the same time. Started construction. I plan to build it by the summer.

Therefore, there was no time for Brave Borderer. But I ordered all sorts of unnecessary things – control equipment, receiver, battery, servo. I hope they will all work together.

There is already a propeller, motors. I made a shaft out of stainless steel, and a deadwood tube (Stern tube?) out of brass. Applying to the drawing, I realized that I had forgotten to make holes for deadwoods in the frames.

 

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Sawed through the frames.

 

 

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Edited by Dmitriy1967
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Carefully examining the hull, I found on one of the drawings a spray rail that does not reach the bow of the ship.

 

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He is also visible in some photos. Moreover, it ends in the same place in different photos.

 

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But there are photos where it is not visible at all, or it goes all the way to the nose. It puzzled me a little....

 

 

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Hi Dmitriy,

I saw that during my build, as well.   Since my main reference drawing & the early reference photos showed the 'short' spray rails, I decided to go with that.

 

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The shortened spray rails were included in Brave Borderer's original design.  One photo showing the spray rails going all the way to her bow was taken later when she was assigned to fishery protection.   I'm guessing the spray rails were modified at some point in the 1960's.

 

John

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Hi John,

You and I are thinking in the same direction. 🙂

I also assumed that changes had been made. But I couldn't find any information on the reconstruction of Brave Borderer. I was prompted to this idea by the fact that the following ships of the Brave class (Perkasa, Sobjornen and others) did not have such a short spray bar.

 

Thank you for the information, it's valuable to me.

 

Dmitriy

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It's good to make a model in a country house. There's a forest growing behind the fence. There is an alder tree in the forest. If you cut boards from alder in advance and dry them for six months, then at the right moment you can use a planer and a circular saw to make the necessary slats, and not wait for them to be brought from the store. 🙂

 

 

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I found a topic where Martin from Australia was building a Brave Borderer RC model with a length of 1800 mm! The model looks fantastic, even the transom panel was lowered depending on the speed. And posted detailed photos of the entire construction process there. But to date, not a single photo has been preserved. Text only. 🙁

 

https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,9865.0.html

Edited by Dmitriy1967
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  • 1 month later...

There is little free time, so the construction of the ship is moving slowly.

Finally glued the frame of the case.

 

 

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With a chainsaw on a scale of 1/16, I cut holes for the rudder tube.

 

 

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I will sheathe with thin linden plates, and so that they fit correctly in the places of bending, I inserted abachi bars into the bow of the hull.

 

 

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I made the exhaust holes of the turbines in the transom.

 

 

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If you think it's a bomb-making kit, you're wrong.

 

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It is necessary to weigh the ingredients accurately.

I will bend the wooden slats that go along the sides of the case. They are lying in front of the scales on the table.

 

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I pour hot water with a secret powder into the pipe and lower the rails there.

 

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When the tree is wet enough and has become flexible, I clamp it in a homemade vise.

I give a stronger bend than required, because then the slats will straighten a little.

 

 

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It is necessary to warm them up with a hairdryer and leave them for at least a day.

 

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Now a lot of time is distracted by another project that I'm doing in parallel with Brave Borderer. This is a 1/1 scale workshop model.
And it seems to me that I will build it earlier than Brave Borderer. 🙂

 

 

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Edited by Dmitriy1967
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Hi Dmitriy, welcome back

 

Good to see the notifications on this thread working so I could catch up with this excellent build. 

 

Great work on the bow section, always a challenge with wooden hulls, looks like you took more care with it than I normally do, well done

 

The workshop would have been quicker at 1/16th scale, just saying....

 

С Рождеством 🎄

 

Steve

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I keep thinking about the color of the deck. I carefully read how JohnWS studied this question, he decided to choose the gray option.

But I'm still not sure about it. Horizontal planes always look lighter in photos. But there are some photos in which the deck looks very dark. It seems to me that it may be green.

 

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I don't know much about RN colors, but green decks were in the days of Brave Borderer.

 

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Indirectly, other Vosper speedboats, such as the Gay Archer, are pushing towards the green color. They were in the service of the coastal forces in the same years as Brave Borderer.

 

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Also, most of the scale models of Brave Borderer also have a green deck. Why did the modelers choose this color? Their decision, of course, cannot be an objective reason, but still…

 

I don't have a solution yet.

 

Edited by Dmitriy1967
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32 minutes ago, Iceman 29 said:

"I pour hot water with a secret powder into the pipe and lower the rails there."

 

We would like to know the recipe for this magic powder, but we won't tell anyone! 😜

 

I hope this secret dies with us.

This powder is baking soda. It is diluted in a ratio of 10% with water. The water temperature should be 70-80 degrees Celsius. Interestingly, if the soda is more or less than 10%, the effect worsens.

I'm not a chemist and I can't explain this effect. But this is a well-known recipe for improving the flexibility of wood.

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     Gidday Dmitriy, in the 1980s and 1990s I did fourteen years in the Royal Australian Naval Reserve. Most of my time was spent on patrol boats and as best as I can recall they all had dark grey decks as in the photo above. I know it's a different navy but the RAN descended from the RN and was still similar in many ways. HTH. Regards, Jeff.

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