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HMS Brave Borderer 1/35


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I study the location of rivets and bolts on the transom shelf. It is clear with all of them, except for the small ones located along the upper edge. Marked them in red. I can't understand why they are there. There's nothing to hold with rivets. I don't like doing things I don't understand.

 

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I drew a simple sketch - a view of the transom shelf from the side of the ship.

 

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What do you think these rivets are for?

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7 minutes ago, Steve D said:

I suspect the fore and aft horizontal plate folds up and is connected to the back plate by those rivets

 

 

It seems to me that a large horizontal plate with large nuts should be removable. Under it there are hydraulic cylinders controlling the trimmer plate. These cylinders must be accessible for repair and maintenance. Therefore, it is impossible to attach it with rivets to the rear vertical plate.

Or did I misunderstand your words?

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15 hours ago, Dmitriy1967 said:

It seems to me that a large horizontal plate with large nuts should be removable.

OK, that makes sense, however, the outboard ends of the vertical plates that the horizontal plate bolts to will need support or they would flap around (engineering term, may not translate...).  So, it may be that the rivets secure a stiffener that anchors these edges and create the rigid box necessary for bolt alignment 

 

I'm guessing of course  :hmmm:

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8 hours ago, Steve D said:

OK, that makes sense, however, the outboard ends of the vertical plates that the horizontal plate bolts to will need support or they would flap around (engineering term, may not translate...).  So, it may be that the rivets secure a stiffener that anchors these edges and create the rigid box necessary for bolt alignment 

 

Yes, you're probably right.

 

It's a shame that there are no good detailed photos with detailing. And there are no people who served on Brave Borderer, there are so many questions I want to ask them!

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2 hours ago, Dmitriy1967 said:

I saw a good shot in the movie.

Looks to me like the plates covering the trim tab rams are bolted through onto a flange on their longitudinal sides, and the rear edge is bent up vertically and bolted through the rear athwartship plate. Difficult to see but the forward edge could be tucked under a strip of angle plate, or there's a hinge on top of the forward edge.

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Yes, Dave, you're right, there may be different solutions.

Fortunately, at 1/35 scale, this element will be practically invisible, so I'll just make rivets and screws, as seen in the photos.

Thank you for your suggestions about the design!

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  • 3 weeks later...

The turtle continues to slowly but surely crawl uphill. :)

 

Drilling holes, riveting rivets.

 

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The side overhangs of the transom shelf are filled with balsa blocks. They form the basis for plastic cladding.

 

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Glued the side curved sheeting sheets.

 

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Traction rods from the trim plate will enter the transom shelf from below. In order to secure them securely in the future, I insert balsa blocks.

(I don't know if Google Translator will explain to you what I wanted to say.) :)

 

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And rivets again...

 

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Guys, I do not know how you work on a scale of 350 or 700!!! I see in 1/35 scale what I did only in enlarged photos.

 

 

 

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Looking good Dmitriy. :speak_cool:

 

32 minutes ago, Dmitriy1967 said:

Guys, I do not know how you work on a scale of 350 or 700!!! ...

I know what you mean.  I'm currently scratch building a complex bow anchor for my 1/350 Regina build.  I'm currently on my 6th attempt. 😣

 

John

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8 minutes ago, JohnWS said:

Looking good Dmitriy. :speak_cool:

 

I know what you mean.  I'm currently scratch building a complex bow anchor for my 1/350 Regina build.  I'm currently on my 6th attempt. 😣

 

John

 

Yes, John, such work is probably impossible for my fingers and eyesight. Therefore, I always look with admiration at the work of modelers with such miniature details.

 

Dmitriy

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Friends,

I have a big request for you. I know that it is not customary on Britmodeller to criticize other people's builds, or to make comments in a very light veiled form. This creates a friendly atmosphere and does not offend anyone. But, I ask in my topic not to be shy and say everything as it is. I am a novice modeler, especially in the marine theme, and any comments are important to me. Maybe you just think something is wrong, talk about it, I won't be offended. Even if what has been done cannot be corrected. Maybe this topic will be read by people who also want to build Brave Borderer and after reading your comments and seeing my mistakes, they will not make these mistakes themselves.
So don't hold back! Allow yourself this!

:)

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11 hours ago, Dmitriy1967 said:

I am a novice modeler, especially in the marine theme, and any comments are important to me.

Dmitriy,

 

We all started as novices and learnt by our mistakes.  For a novice, you work is already exceptional, I wouldn't dare show some of my early work.  So, you're doing great and the silence from the others serves as a tribute to this.  The shots I see have a pleasing precision, I know I could not achieve with plastic (nasty stuff really....)

 

1/35th scale is tough simply because at that scale things can actually be made to work and actual rivets (as you have shown) are perfectly possible.  Nuts and bolts should be real as they are obtainable.  So, it is actually the least forgiving of all maritime scales.  It would drive me mad, windows would need to open etc... 

 

Keep it up and one day you can progress to God's own scale of 1:48th 😇 the perfect compromise beloved of ship builders

 

Cheers

 

Steve

 

 

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On 17/12/2022 at 22:22, Dmitriy1967 said:

I am a novice modeler,

 

Dmitri,

 

If this is your standard of work as a novice, I'd hate to think how god you'll get with some experience.  Your quality of work and attention to detail is astounding.

 

On 17/12/2022 at 19:27, Dmitriy1967 said:

Guys, I do not know how you work on a scale of 350 or 700!!! I see in 1/35 scale what I did only in enlarged photos.

 

I think the thing is, you model to what is feasible in the scale.

 

I have traditionally always worked in 1/600.  Then about 2 years ago jumped to 1/350 for a couple before returning to 1/600 for my current build.  The challenge I find now is that I know what is feasible in 1/350 and am trying to replicate that (not very successfully) in 1/600!  The larger the sale, the more detail we can include.  My rule of thumb is nothing smaller than 0.1 mm on the model so that means in 1/600 I can include something that might be 60 mm in real life.  in 1/35 that would be 3.5 mm.

 

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57 minutes ago, Chewbacca said:

If this is your standard of work as a novice, I'd hate to think how god you'll get with some experience.  Your quality of work and attention to detail is astounding.

 

I think the thing is, you model to what is feasible in the scale.

 

 

Thank you for your kind words.

 

Yes, I understand the rules of the game for different scales. I have always liked to look at small details in museums. Also in painting, I like the neatly drawn works of the old masters and don't really like abstractions and impressionism. That's why I decided to choose such a scale for the model, so that it would be easier for me to work with the details. Let's see what happens next for me. I don't know myself yet. It is a pity that there is not enough time for modeling, so everything goes slowly. But I get pleasure, like riding an old slow steam locomotive, when you can open the window and, without being afraid of the wind, admire the scenery.

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I have problems with gluing small plastic parts. If the part is less than 0.5mm, the drop of glue may be larger than the part. I try to take the glue on the tip of the needle, but still sometimes it turns out a larger spot of the track, which is visible from under the part.

How do you glue such small details? Maybe there is some special way?

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