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Big Red Mouth - easy 8 Sherman


The Great Escape

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I’ve still got much to learn about Sherman tanks so hoping someone with a bit more knowledge can help me.

 

Regarding the M3a4e8 Korean War Sherman (the one painted with the eyes and the big red mouth)… would this be the same spec as Fury? 
 

I’d rather paint this as Fury if the actual tank is the same. 

 

Thanks

 

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The strict answer is "no". 

 

The tank in the film is posing as an M4A3E8, as per that Tamiya kit, but it is not one.  The other Tamiya M4A3E8 kit is more typical for NW Europe.  The Korea kit has some features more common on post-war tanks.  If you already have the kit there are parts you should omit for a WW2 version.

 

The actual tank used in the filming is an M4A2E8, the diesel version.  This was only used during WW2 by the Red Army and never used by US forces.  No-one makes a kit of this configuration OOB IIRC.

 

So I suppose the key question is whether you want to model the actual film star tank or just a vanilla M4A3E8.  The film star tank will need to be converted.  The other Tamiya kit is a better start point for a WW2 version.

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Finescale models forum came up with this:

 

'Like Rob says, no "great" kit of the M4A2 HVSS 76W exists.  But to kitbash correctly, I'd do the following:

1) Tasca JGSDF for the components Rob says

2a) Academy M4A2 HVSS for hull or

2b) Aftermarket resin late M4A2 hull (Tank Workshop) and source a lower hull tub M4A2 from DML or Academy or Tasca'

 

That's 1/35th scale and problematic. So obviously 1/16th scale........well?

 

Aren't Shermans complicated?

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As @noelh says, you've entered a veritable minefield with Shermans.

 

Fortunately for you, by the time of the "2nd Generation" Shermans with the later hull and 76mm turret the differences between variants had become less marked than the earlier generation as only 2 plants were making welded-hull tanks by this time (Chrysler and Fisher).  So the differences between the M4A3 kit and the M4A2 film star (the E8 bit only refers to the suspension, which is common to both) are the engine deck and rear hull. 

 

As @AndyTAZ points out, the Sherman Minitia site is an invaluable resource for Sherman information.  You might also check out The Sherman Tank Site here http://www.theshermantank.com/

 

To alter the Tamiya kit you need a new rear engine deck, a new lower rear hull with exhaust and deflector and a re-angled upper rear hull.  This doesn't necessarily need the expensive parts list above.  Many Dragon Sherman kits include a lot of excess parts for other variants.  I might have the Dragon A2 parts necessary in my bits box.  You will have to cut off the upper rear hull and re-angle it yourself.  But there can be dimensional differences between kit brands so cross-kit parts can need trimming, packing or filling to fit.

 

Cross-kitting the Academy M4A2 Red Army kit with the Tamiya suspension will arrive at an adequate M4A2E8, although there may be some fettling to fit.  The left over parts can be put together to make a late-production VVSS M4A3 (Tamiya kit with Academy suspension).  It might be easier to swap the complete lower hulls rather than trying to make the bogies fit.  Or you could just get the Academy kit and add the AFV Club HVSS suspension set and some new tracks.  Another cross-kit possibility, sticking with Academy and probably-therefore-compatible parts would be to cross-kit their Red Army M4A2 with their M4A3(105) - if you can find one.  By swapping the lower hulls and suspension you end up with an M4A2E8 and an earlier VVSS M4A3(105).  Nothing wasted again.

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Have you tried Heng Long and Torro? There's a very good German company called "RCtanks.de" you should check out. In the UK, there's Welsh Dragon Models and Forge Bear - both worth taking a look at. 

 

One thing I would say about some RC tanks is that from my (limited) knowledge of the subject, they appear more designed for the "fun-factor" than for very strict, historical accuracy. 

 

Hope this helps. 

 

Chris.  

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