Silent Running Dewey#1. 3D Studio Max & 3D Printed Adventures. ( Kind of Scratch Build )

[LorenSharp]

I found it tacky as well, but I used a cotton bud dipped in alcohol , wiped it down and it didn't seem as bad. I chalked it up to leftover residue. Paint adhered without a problem.  I did let it  set 24 hrs before painting.

[The Spadgent]

59 minutes ago, LorenSharp said:

I found it tacky as well, but I used a cotton bud dipped in alcohol , wiped it down and it didn't seem as bad. I chalked it up to leftover residue. Paint adhered without a problem.  I did let it  set 24 hrs before painting.

Thanks. I’ll give that a try tomorrow. 😇

[The Spadgent]

Good evening Britmodellers. 😀

This is where I think it started based on what @LorenSharp had mentioned.

I washed this badly printed part in ipa as a test and it had gone cloudy. It wasn’t cured apart from just being out. I decided to do a little test with liquid resin over the top and it kind of worked. 😍

I did another test with one of the first prints that had gone cloudy. Both from the same batch but the one on the left painted with a little liquid resin ( I used an old paint brush) 

🤔🤔🤔🤔 interesting.

So last night I did the tests.

No wash in ipa and cured.

Was in ipa and cured.

Dip in ipa and spray with ipa also cured.

These ones head similar ipa treatment but no cure except sunlight.

 

Now.

After a night and most of today on the sill. Almost all were tacky apart from the washed ones that had been cured. Even the cured non washed were a bit tacky. 
So with that here is one of the fully washed and cured ones that was dry. 1 min I think.

Then with the slightest amount of resin on an old brush I painted the inside then the outside and got this.

It’s so odd. It’s like when you were a kid and you put kitchen Roll over a picture book and painted over with water.  ( did any one else ever do that? )  The print magically goes back to being clear.

I tried to do a video but I didn’t have enough hands.

so here’s before.

And here’s after a stroke with the brush.

Abra cadabra. 🪄 😍

Here are a few cured at different times after brushing resin. You can see that some are more yellow than others. But overall I think that’s going to be good enough. I’ll let the ones I’ll use dry over night and cure for a bit on the sill. But the light being can be seen well enough.

Here are the final candidates.

It’s not the clearest thing in the world but it’s leagues ahead of where I was a day or two ago. 😇😀

 I’l hopefully tomorrow  I’ll be track free and I can get little Dewey finished. 😍

 

 Thanks for stopping by and for all your help. 

 

Sweet dreams.

 

 Johnny

[Pete in Lincs]

So, resin and a sprinkling of fairy dust eh? Clearly some sort of magic.

[giemme]

Top stuff, Johnny  But I agree with @Pete in Lincs, must be some kind of magic....

 

Ciao 

[perdu]

Obviously 

[hendie]

I think the key takeaway here is to avoid IPA at all costs when using clear resin, and to remove as much uncured gloop as possible.  Using something like Simple Green in an ultrasonic bath would appear to be a valid path forward here, followed by a quick lightsaber cure.

 

here's a link to the lightsaber  I purchased a while back.  The power rating is 1mw and I'd guess all the pens are the same power rating.  I can't find anything on the power rating for the printer LED screen to compare but I think the pen has a much higher power rating.  The first time I used it I held focussed it on the part for around 20 seconds and it turned the grey resin brown.  Now I just pass the light over the part for curing.  Yesterday when I was doing some assembly on the UNCLE car I made some joints with the resin - the joint was instantaneous with a quick pass of the saber over the gloop.

 

Brilliant work Johnny

[LorenSharp]

10 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

So, resin and a sprinkling of fairy dust eh? Clearly some sort of magic.

Nah, It's not magic. he uses mirrors. And notice, at no time does his fingers ever leave his hands.

[The Spadgent]

12 hours ago, Pete in Lincs said:

So, resin and a sprinkling of fairy dust eh? Clearly some sort of magic.

I wish it was magic! It would be a whole lot easier to do.🧙‍♂️

6 hours ago, giemme said:

Top stuff, Johnny  But I agree with @Pete in Lincs, must be some kind of magic....

 

Ciao 

If only. 🥳

6 hours ago, perdu said:

Obviously 

🤪

3 hours ago, hendie said:

I think the key takeaway here is to avoid IPA at all costs when using clear resin, and to remove as much uncured gloop as possible.  Using something like Simple Green in an ultrasonic bath would appear to be a valid path forward here, followed by a quick lightsaber cure.

 

here's a link to the lightsaber  I purchased a while back.  The power rating is 1mw and I'd guess all the pens are the same power rating.  I can't find anything on the power rating for the printer LED screen to compare but I think the pen has a much higher power rating.  The first time I used it I held focussed it on the part for around 20 seconds and it turned the grey resin brown.  Now I just pass the light over the part for curing.  Yesterday when I was doing some assembly on the UNCLE car I made some joints with the resin - the joint was instantaneous with a quick pass of the saber over the gloop.

 

Brilliant work Johnny

Thanks Alan. The green stuff in the uk is £50 a bottle on Amazon. Is there anything you know of similar but a little cheaper.

1 hour ago, LorenSharp said:

Nah, It's not magic. he uses mirrors. And notice, at no time does his fingers ever leave his hands.

🤪😜🤣🤣🤣

[opus999]

I don't mean to cause any thread drift, but I recently bought some clear resin and a curing lamp with the idea that it would make filling "oops"s and panel lines (*cough* Airfix *cough*) easier than my current, tedious, method of CA and sanding.  Now I am reading about shrinkage and cracking and dissolving...  Which is causing me to wonder if these are things I need to worry about if using the resin for my intended purpose?  Given my experience with other materials, I suspect a lot of this comes down to a combination of resin thickness and cure time (which I think has been explicitly stated above). So I guess my questions are:  Should I expect difficulties with shrinkage and cracking with panel line filling, what cure times should I use, and Is there such a thing as too much curing?

 

Back to our regularly scheduled program.  Thanks for the detailed posts Johnny, they're fascinating even for a non-3D print guy like me!

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

1 minute ago, opus999 said:

I don't mean to cause any thread drift, but I recently bought some clear resin and a curing lamp with the idea that it would make filling "oops"s and panel lines (*cough* Airfix *cough*) easier than my current, tedious, method of CA and sanding.  Now I am reading about shrinkage and cracking and dissolving...  Which is causing me to wonder if these are things I need to worry about if using the resin for my intended purpose?  Given my experience with other materials, I suspect a lot of this comes down to a combination of resin thickness and cure time (which I think has been explicitly stated above). So I guess my questions are:  Should I expect difficulties with shrinkage and cracking with panel line filling, what cure times should I use, and Is there such a thing as too much curing?

 

Back to our regularly scheduled program.  Thanks for the detailed posts Johnny, they're fascinating even for a non-3D print guy like me!

Im not sure about shrinkage with resin/pen type products but if you want to get it stay and not fall out one method would be to do the work before joining the halve of wings or fuselage together. I say this because you can get micro drill bits into the trench(panel line). Creating holes so the resin can bleed through and create a locking layer on the inside of the fuselage/wings ? 

[opus999]

10 minutes ago, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

Im not sure about shrinkage with resin/pen type products but if you want to get it stay and not fall out one method would be to do the work before joining the halve of wings or fuselage together. I say this because you can get micro drill bits into the trench(panel line). Creating holes so the resin can bleed through and create a locking layer on the inside of the fuselage/wings ? 

Oh... interesting!  I hadn't considered that.  Thanks Dennis!

[LorenSharp]

2 hours ago, opus999 said:

I don't mean to cause any thread drift, but I recently bought some clear resin and a curing lamp with the idea that it would make filling "oops"s and panel lines (*cough* Airfix *cough*) easier than my current, tedious, method of CA and sanding.  Now I am reading about shrinkage and cracking and dissolving...  Which is causing me to wonder if these are things I need to worry about if using the resin for my intended purpose?  Given my experience with other materials, I suspect a lot of this comes down to a combination of resin thickness and cure time (which I think has been explicitly stated above). So I guess my questions are:  Should I expect difficulties with shrinkage and cracking with panel line filling, what cure times should I use, and Is there such a thing as too much curing?

 

Back to our regularly scheduled program.  Thanks for the detailed posts Johnny, they're fascinating even for a non-3D print guy like me!

I haven't noticed any shrinkages on anything I've used resin as a gap filler. But I use disposable 3ml pipettes as an applicator. gives me better control. Nice thing is after curing it's a lot easier to sand than CA after its cured.

[opus999]

4 hours ago, LorenSharp said:

But I use disposable 3ml pipettes as an applicator. gives me better control.

Good idea!  Thanks for that.

 

4 hours ago, LorenSharp said:

Nice thing is after curing it's a lot easier to sand than CA after its cured.

I'm happy to hear that, i filled panel lines on my last 2 builds with CA and am very tired of sanding, to say the least.

[81-er]

It's great to see the results of your experiments, Johnny, whether successful or not. It serves as a great guide for those of us planning on making the jump to 3D printing at some point. I've also learnt that you can get Kiss branded manuscript paper as well

 

James

[The Spadgent]

On 07/08/2022 at 18:27, opus999 said:

I don't mean to cause any thread drift, but I recently bought some clear resin and a curing lamp with the idea that it would make filling "oops"s and panel lines (*cough* Airfix *cough*) easier than my current, tedious, method of CA and sanding.  Now I am reading about shrinkage and cracking and dissolving...  Which is causing me to wonder if these are things I need to worry about if using the resin for my intended purpose?  Given my experience with other materials, I suspect a lot of this comes down to a combination of resin thickness and cure time (which I think has been explicitly stated above). So I guess my questions are:  Should I expect difficulties with shrinkage and cracking with panel line filling, what cure times should I use, and Is there such a thing as too much curing?

 

Back to our regularly scheduled program.  Thanks for the detailed posts Johnny, they're fascinating even for a non-3D print guy like me!

I guess you could use it to fill panel lines. I haven’t used it for that purpose But I can’t see why not. I guess if you paint over the top I can’t see it falling out but I guess that’s the same with any filler? Maybe try it on a mule first. As for over curing? Maybe you can but I can only assume under paint it should be fine. Only time will tell. 

12 hours ago, 81-er said:

It's great to see the results of your experiments, Johnny, whether successful or not. It serves as a great guide for those of us planning on making the jump to 3D printing at some point. I've also learnt that you can get Kiss branded manuscript paper as well

 

James

I’m glad my endeavors may be of some use. I think you can get KISS branded everything. Probably resin too. 😛🤘

[The Spadgent]

Hey! 
It’s been a while, I’ve had a few things going on over the past few weeks. 
Work is super CrAzY leaving me exhausted at the end of the day and we were away last weekend and then some at A Local music festival. 
It was so hot!!!!☀️
but we had a blast!

The kid is growing fast. 

didn’t even get any pics of my daughter. She was just off with friends. 🤪

Any way since coming back I’ve been pooped but have spent a little time watching “Light & Magic” on Disney that has given this little project the mojo boost I needed. 
Now where were we? 
Everything got a flat coat. Just a dusting. 😃

legs.

Body.

And his little arm.

Next up was to add the bare metal foil to stand in for the chrome clamps and pipes. This stuff is surprisingly rigid. 😳

Both legs with the BMF treatment.

Happy with that. 😀

The legs then got glued on using Gators grip as the bond using super glue is just so unforgiving with resin. I learned that the hard way.😕

Cue power shot!!!!

notice the chrome bits on the body pipes now too. ❤️

BEHOLD!!!! 🤣

Now it’s time for tubes. 
rubber ones. This stuff is insulation tubing for my fencing foil. It’s exactly the right size. 😇🤺

I had to find a way to attach it to the drone. 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔

luckily there was enough space after I’d glued everything to get a micro drill in and make some locating holes.

Then I added .6mm rod. The idea is to glue rod in all the right places then simply slip the tube into place.

The first test. 🤞🤞🤞

Et voila. 🤗

perfect! 😃 so on with the rest.

While they dried I decided to glue the lamp.

This is the one I have chosen.

I found a great hack that if you have yellowed resin after curing you can get rid of the colouration by hitting it on heat blast with a hair dryer. I don’t know the science being it but it does work.  It’s not perfect but it supports my little drone. 😇

That got glued in place as the pipes started going on. All GG.

Looking good.

Sorted the other side then glued the arm. Note the blu-tac jig. 🤣

I’ve drilled the little claw and will add it in a similar fashion to the pipes.

Thinking of using this too as some light shifts on the oil stains. 🤔

Nearly there. 😃

Walked the dog along the cut.

Swans and cygnets. ❤️

Then made crumble with garden fruit. 
Man I’m on fire. 🤣🤣🔥

Mojo for sale. Tuppence a bag. 🤣😇❤️
 

More soon. Thanks for sticking with this.

Happy modelling chums.

 

 Johnny. 🤖

[giemme]

Wow, that some ingenious work for the piping!  All coming together beautifully, really!

 

Also, glad to know you had some fun!

 

Ciao 

[hendie]

That pipework is going to add the final whadyamacallit to the overall look. Johnny. 

Crumble looks tantalizingly good.

[81-er]

He's coming together fantastically, Johnny, nice work!

 

Light & Magic's quite a watch, isn't it?

 

James

[Quiet Mike]

Amazings results Johnny, Dewey is looking superb!

[The Spadgent]

On 21/08/2022 at 20:15, giemme said:

Wow, that some ingenious work for the piping!  All coming together beautifully, really!

 

Also, glad to know you had some fun!

 

Ciao 

Thanks G😍

On 21/08/2022 at 21:52, hendie said:

That pipework is going to add the final whadyamacallit to the overall look. Johnny. 

Crumble looks tantalizingly good.

Thanks. 🤩

On 22/08/2022 at 08:57, 81-er said:

He's coming together fantastically, Johnny, nice work!

 

Light & Magic's quite a watch, isn't it?

 

James

Thanks. It really is. 😀

On 22/08/2022 at 15:08, Quiet Mike said:

Amazings results Johnny, Dewey is looking superb!

Thank you. I’m really pleased he’s turning out well. 😍

[The Spadgent]

Ok we’re done, 😍 I’ll do one more post before the RFI. But the last few bits got sorted over this last weekend. 😇

 the grabber got glued in place and some wires began to get added.

Nothing too fancy just something to busy it up a little.

And one last red one from the spares box.

All lead wire some of it painted.

All of a sudden I’d run out of bits to glue. 
so. Before I start this.

I’ll take a few pre RFI shots just for you guys. 😍

 

 

 

 

Thanks for taking an interest. 
Im away next week so the RFI will be sometime after that. 
Take care y’all and as always happy modelling.

 

 Johnny.

[Corsairfoxfouruncle]

Excellent build sir

[Fritag]

Gorgeous painting and finishing Johnny.  Artist at work.